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  1. My washer dryer has stopped working completely – no lights on the front panel, no switches work. I called my local appliance repairer who assessed the situation as one of the three circuit boards was not working. However he felt unable to proceed with the repair without knowing which of the circuit boards had failed, and what had caused the failure. On that basis he felt the cost of repair would be more than the machine is worth. The machine is only just two years old – plugs, sockets, fuses etc all fine.
  2. Hello everyone! First time post here. You guys seem to be the experts so thought I would drop a message before rage-quitting Beko and buying myself a new machine :P. Over the last 6 or so months, my machine seems to be wobbling more and more. I have tried replacing the shocks and re-balancing the machine using a spirit level - both to no avail. I have taken the top off and recorded a few videos, any idea what is wrong? Im swaying to it being the bearings or something. The whole drum feels lose and wobbles easily with a push of my finger. The thing is held in place by two springs at the top and two shocks at the bottom. Thanks in advanced. Scott WhatsApp Video 2021-05-30 at 17.24.06.mp4 WhatsApp Video 2021-05-30 at 17.24.24.mp4
  3. I have just got a beko WTIK76121 and after the first use i noticed the liquid detergent drawer at the end of the cycle was full of water The washing machine liquid detergent draw isn't siphoning the water off and at the end its full of fresh water. So the liquid detergent is going but then full of water! I called beko and they said it sounded like the water pressure is to high so I changed that and i now know that is not the problem as it has made no difference. Could the problem be possibly the angle of the machine? Does it need to come down slightly at the front so its at the right angle to help the siphoning start?? Please help as surely this is not right fir a new washing machine and if beko come out and decide its not a manufacturer issue i will be charged for the call out
  4. Hello all, After following these excellent instructions from @bob12241 and @jonboyuk, I have tested the D7 diode (faulty) and will be replacing it to try to get my Beko WDIR7543101 going again. At the same time, I thought i'd have a go at fixing the long-standing problem with the dryer and was hoping for some help. The issue is that it cuts out after a few minutes of running. I've not used it in over a year now but since I had the machine open and multimeter in hand, here's the readings I got from testing the following parts: A. Element: 39.8 ohms B. Thermostat/Cutout 1: 0.01 ohms C: Thermostat/Cutout 2: 0.01 ohms D: Motor: 46.1 ohms These readings all seem fine, so I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions please and whether or not (see pics attached): -It's worth trying to take out the condenser and clean it, as it looks like it is quite dirty on the inside? If so, does anyone know how to do this please? -It's worth trying to get to the fan to clean it? The small motor cooling fan does spin freely when I use my finger. I did try to remove all the screws on the top cover of the fan/heating box but there was no movement of the cover. It's almost as if it is glued down? Thanks in advance for any replies, Circuital
  5. My son has a Beko wm6110 washing machine. The seal around the door split, so he fitted a replacement seal. During this, a part dropped from the on/off switch, which seemed to vanish into the ether... He has bought and fitted another on/off switch, but since fitting this, the fuse in the "socket" (it's hard-wired into it's own box on the wall, with a switch above the work-top) keeps blowing. He suspects the switch may be wired up wrongly, as nothing else has been disturbed. With the mains power off at the circuit breaker on the mains distribution board, he changed the 13A fuse in the "socket" box. When resetting the circuit breaker, and switch on at the wall switch, the fuse blows immediately. Can't find anything in the FAQ section, so can anybody tell me (& him) how to wire up the on/off switch, which colour wires go to which terminal on the switch, or if it could be anything else? Picture below is of the part that dropped and vanished - haribo gummy ring for scale -, link is to the replacement switch... Thanks
  6. Hi Andy . I think you said on occasion before that you never really got into repairing Tumble Dryers (didn't you?) and i know this is just a washing machine forum but I just wanted to get your angle on this. I have tested our new Beko Tumble dryer with a multimeter and the cabinet is earthed , which is good but I checked the drum itself (which is metal) and that isnt earthed. - well this would explain why the odd few times i have been getting a static electrical shock when removing dried items from the drum , especially if in with the drying there are synthetic items. apart from the aspect of getting static shocks, how safe are these tumble dryers that there is a large circumference of metal that can be touched by bare hands without it being earthed? I mean it might be a be in a million change but say if a live wire in the cabinet gets to touch the revolving drum , its not going to blow a fuse or trip a switch , but if you open the door and touch the 'live' drum its gonna give you a jolt for sure. Have had the back off that covers the heater element and back of drum and the drum shaft fits into a plastic bearing , so thats where the ground stops to get to the metal drum. Now other makes like Creda/hotpoint and even white knight have all included a 'earthing strip' at the back of the drum that touches on the metal drum spindle so that it earths the drum ... Beko (manufactured by Arcelik in turkey) haven't . They have the screw holes to screw the earth strip to but they havent put one on! Whats your view on it andy, being an appliance engineer or even from a personal point of view. Do you think its safe not to have the drum earthed?
  7. Hi Andy. what are you like on Tumble Driers - had much experience with them? I bought a new Beko DTGV8000 Vented Tumble dryer from currys a couple of weeks ago and its replacing our Beko Condenser which we have had for about 5 years or so. Wanted to get a vented one this time because the room the condenser dryer was in got so hot and damp , so now at least the hot air and moisture now at least is is at least being carried outside through the wall vent now. I dont find it brilliant on 'extra dry' like the last one. OK they come out dry, but not really bone dry, a bit damp sometimes and a couple of times had to put the stuff back in. - I have noticed, and got to wondering if it because now it looks like Beko (and maybe other manufactures do now) have moved the drum sensor(s) to underneath the lint/fluff filter (in a god awful place to get to, to clean now) whereas before there was 2 metal strips at the bottom of the porthole inside the drum. With the 2 sensor strips in the drum , the clothes/laundry rubbed against the sensor and if they were wet the sensor would send a signal to the electronics on the panel and stop the machine when the clothes/laundry were dry. - but how does it work in this new way they have done it now where they have put a sensor underneath the fluff filter where the clothes cannot brush past the sensor? - could this have a rubbish effect on drying and just measure the moisture content flowing out of the drum past the fluff filter now would you know? Now to get the clothes/towels real dry now I have to select 'Towels' cycle and they come out nice and dry now. But I have a feeling this is timed drying and not one of the sensor drying programs. whats your view?
  8. Hi , on a spin at the end of wash the washing machine sounded louder than usual and gave off a slight smell of burning. Upon investigation it appears 1 of the carbon brushes has melted slightly the plastic surround. The brush has plenty of life left in it (length) so unsure why it has generated so much heat and melted some of the housing. I have checked the part of the motor it connects to and no obvious issues / reasons why it should have happened? Is it worth replacing the brushes or will the same happen again? please note the unit is only about 1 year old but had stood unused for around 8 month then this occurred on the 2nd cycle following the gap in use . Your help is much appreciated.
  9. I have a BEKO WDX8543130. Over the last 2 weeks the drying function has not been working properly. It washes fine. Then we set it to cupboard dry. It sometimes needs a bit longer so we set it to dry a bit more. After the cycle has finished it comes out soaking wet. It's happened about 5-10 times now. Anyone experienced this before?
  10. Beko washer/dryer WDR 7543121W product code 7161541500 does not dry. The element that fits in the bottom of the drum has been replaced but this only heats the water during the wash cycle. Is there another element for the drying cycle? If so, where is it located on the machine? Or could there be another cause? Any help you are able to give will be gratefully appreciated.
  11. Hello there.. I have a Beko washing machine WM6133W. Recently, the motor started to change speed every 3 seconds or so. I thought it was a tacho coil that was broken but I found out that it is a ring attached to rotor shaft (where the tacho is reading the speed of rotor). It seems it is made of plastic (brown colour) and it is cracked in half. As it was attached to rotor I'm just wondering if it's possible to buy it as a spare part. Any suggestions? Photos attached. Thanks. Daniel
  12. Hello, My washing machine makes a thudding noise when it's finished spinning. Please see attached video. This has happened twice, that I know of. The cycle appeared to have finished, the display says 'END'. The machine made this sound at irregular intervals of a few seconds. The drum does not move during the thudding. Looking at the light indicators, it does seem that the programme is complete by the time this noise starts. The washing appears to be washed, rinsed and spun dry. When I turn the machine off, on the programme dial, the noise stops and the door click releases. What's happening? Grateful for any suggestions. Beko Washing Machine- Small.mov
  13. Hello I have a Beko wm74135w that recently would not enter its final spin. It would spin fine up until the final spin though. I checked the brushes and one was worn completely down. The other maybe only 30% worn. I had only changed them about a year ago so. I ordered some new brushes but they were for a different Beko model. They are angled the correct way though so I put the new brushes in to the original brush casing and fitted them. All was fine and it was fast spinning except it seemed to spin faster than usual (can't confirm is this true or not since I am not the one that usually uses the machine). Next it started smoking from the back (I presume motor) So I switched it off. I checked the brushes to make sure that they were fitted correctly and they seemed to fit flush but there does appear to be some burnt marks on the brushes. Now the motor will not work at all. I have entered Test mode and the first thing that comes up on the screen is "E--". I presume that this means that there are no errors. The next thing that comes up is "052". Could the brushes have burnt out the motor? Could this be a problem somewhere else in the machine? What does "052" actually mean? Thanks
  14. I have a Beko 2313 CZ cold-fill standard washing machine. Recently it was stuck mid-cycle and water was VERY hot, even though it was on a 40C cottons programme, oh and the motor was not turning. Motor brushes found to be very worn and I replaced those. It then turned ok, rinsed etc, but still the water was very hot. Next, I checked the thermistor and compared the readings to a new one - same output, but fitted a new one anyway just to be sure; but the same result - the water was still becoming very hot. I then tried on 40C, 30C, and even COLD wash, but water still being heated by the element. Does this sound like an expensive control board issue, or perhaps just the selector switch (see image)? If so, any way to test this selector switch? Or any other suggestions?
  15. Hi we have a Beko WMI 71641. It seems to be stuck on pause as the solid arrow on the display is flashing. We switched it off overnight hoping it would clear but when turning on this morning it's exactly the same. we have tried to cancel by holding the start button for 3 secs or more but nothing. We have tried resetting by holding the start button and switching on. This then shows an E08 code and then when letting go of the start button proceeds to the whole display lighting up. We have tried to go through test mode but nothing happens again! my husband checked the pump because of the E08 code but all seems ok. any help would be appreciated.
  16. Hi I'm hoping someone here can help me with my washing machine problems. I think I've put this in the wrong area but DIY repairs was greyed out. Just doing a normal wash and the RCD gets tripped and half of the house's power goes off. There was a bang from the washing machine. After emptying it and running it, inside the drum compartment there is a blue flash and RCD is tripped. After switching the power on again, a flame is seen across the back of the drum compartment. After research I removed the heating element which was covered with calcium carbonate and proceeded to clean it with heated vinegar and water. Eventually the calcium carbonate came off but the element is black where it has been burning. So I ordered a new one. New one arrives a few days later. After installing, the machine doesn't leak or trip the RCD. It completes a wash cycle but doesn't heat the water. Not sure if the heating element or the included thermistor/stat or pcb of the machine is at fault, so can't ask for a replacement. Found one with a drum problem that someone is selling. (4 hour round trip) After removing it's heating element with the thermistor and putting it in the original machine, and getting it to start washing, it is heating the water. And it's not stopping... Eventually it stopped the program. Steam was coming out of the compartment after opening the door. Also from the drawer compartment after opening it. Smoke was also leaving the drawer compartment. Right now the original thermistor is fitted to the machine with the used 2nd hand heating element. I'll add to the thread when there are updates. Sorry about the long story. I would appreciate any help that anyone can offer. Thanks for all your help.
  17. Hello All, hoping someone will know the answer to my query ..... have just had to buy a 2nd hand washing machine, which came through a reputed charity shop and has been tested for electrical safety. However once home, realised that there is no plate underneath [NOT the kick plate, I mean the whole of the underneath of the machine] the machine [so just a big hole and you can view the inner working parts straight through it, whole of underneath of machine is open]. I was wondering if anyone would know if this is dangerous please? I know the purpose of the plate is to reduce noise etc, not worried about that,just don't want to be in danger. Thank you to anyone that may know the answer on here
  18. After 5 good years my machine seems to have stopped spinning. It will fill a little with water, stop for 30-60 seconds, fill a little more, stop, no spin, then drain a little, then stop for a few minutes before the display shows it’s at the end of the cycle. I checked the pump, removed a euro coin and clothes tag from the fan, then verified it was free of other debris and could spin properly. Restarted the machine and had the same issue (although it seems to take on more water and drain more easily) After reading several forums I took the motor off to check on the carbon brushes. I found a good amount of carbon dust, but the brushes seem ok: look to be at least 80% of original size, no burning on the holder, and the brushes are touching as far as I can tell. The only thing that seems a little off is that the contact area of the brush looks to be at 2 angles and not flat/round (hopefully the picture attached shows what I'm trying to describe). I ran my finger across the commutator and didn’t find that any of the bars are raised. It’s my first time working on anything like this and I’m out of ideas and haven’t found any other ideas on the forum. Unfortunately I didn’t check the error codes before taking the motor off, but will reassemble everything tonight and check for the codes (mine doesn’t have a digital display). Before going thru the ‘fun’ of reassembling the motor, does anyone have any other suggestions for what the issue could be? Is it worthwhile to get new carbon brushes to test? Thanks in advance for any help, the kids cloths are piling up and it’s only a matter of time before my wife’s patience runs out and we get a new machine. Cheers!
  19. Hi I have a Beko WM74165W washing machine. It's about 18 months old so 6 months outside the warranty period. Its has been a great machine these past 18 months, definitely one I would have recommended however at the moment it just turns off after I start a wash cycle. Once started the machine will fill with water to the normal level and will then just completely power off, no lights or power at all. It wont turn back on for a minute or two either, I assume its a safety feature but I'm not sure what the problem is. I managed to get it into test mode. It originally showed E17 with was excessive foaming, this came from the repeated washes we put on before we realised there was a problem where detergent was added each time and must have built up. I ran a few rinse cycles which worked on cold water but again the machine cut out after 4 minutes on this but was enough to rinse the machine out. Now when I go into test mode I get each time after pressing the start button: 1. E-- which I assume means no error code 2. 672 shows on the screen - I don't know the significance of this 3. the display flashes to show its working correctly 4. 004 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the right correctly 5. 005 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the left correctly 6. 006 shows and the drum spins to maximum rpm correctly 7. 007 shows and one of the water valves opens in the drawer correctly 8. 008 shows shows and the other water valves opens in the drawer correctly 9. 009 shows and the drum fills with water. Here I thought the drum would reach a maximum value however it kept filling on the first go until I hit start to stop it. the water level got half way up the window, this may be normal but I wasn't sure? The second time in test mode I only let it fill up to over the bottom of the glass in the door and then pressed the start button to move on. 10. For a split second 010 shows on the screen before it moves onto showing 011 as if it bypasses 010. After 2 seconds of showing 011 the machine cuts power as it has been doing in a normal wash cycle. I'm not 100% sure what should be tested at 010 and if this is the issue? or at 011 and this is the issue? From looking at other posts on other models I think this is the point at which the water should start to heat but I'm not getting that far to see does the door get warm. Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated. Many Thanks
  20. Hi there My 2 year old Beko drum stopped turning. Error code F11 can be seen in diagnostic mode. The drum feels 'juddery' when turning by hand and this is coming from the motor - when disconnecting the belt and turning the motor head by hand the judder can be felt. However, and this is the strange part - disconnecting the motor from the circuit board entirely, allows the motor head to move freely. Tried a new motor but still the same. Any thoughts? Thanks
  21. Hi folks, Had a problem with my Beko and managed to find out (by trial and error), how to get into diagnostic mode. First make sure door is closed, then holding the SPIN button press the ON/OFF button, the letter E-- should appear, wait for door to lock, then by pressing the START/PAUSE button you should get 25 on display. Push the START/PAUSE button again and all lights and display will flash, push START/PAUSE again and it will start to go through the functions. Every press of the START/Pause button moves it on to the next function. It can be cancelled any time by holding the ON/OFF button until you see 3....2....1 then machine powers off. Hope this is of help to anyone with the WMX range of machines.
  22. Hi, Looking for some help diagnosing the issue with my washing machine! I have a Beko WMB 81455 LW - 15 months old (just out of warranty ) which stopper working at the weekend. I can't remember any particular event that occurred that caused it to stop working. Now when I try to turn it on and put it on any washing cycle, the machine rinses the detergent chamber as usual but then never starts, it continues to fill/rinse the detergent chamber, stop and repeat. Even if putting the machine on a spin and drain cycle only, nothing happens. I therefore believe the issue is likely a motor fault..? I have tried putting the system into test mode as described here (http://www.how-to-repair.com/help/beko-washing-machine-self-test-diagnostic-mode/) and find that it never performs any of the spin related test steps. Also when putting the system into test mode, a number flashes up on screen - 0417, I'm not sure if this is an error code, can't find any further details from google. I have cleaned the pump filter as I have read is recommended, though to no avail. Not sure what to do next. Any help with next steps to diagnose/fix the issue would be great. Thanks, Estudent1
  23. Hello, my washer stopped mid cycle, i thought it had been put on pause, so i pressed pause again , but nothing happened. I turned the machine off at the wall, after a minute or so the door unlocked, luckily there was no water spillage, but the clothes were still very heavy with water, i left the machine turned off until the following day, i hoped it may reset it somehow. I switched the washer on, and it returned back to the 'paused' looking state, and also was sounding like the cycle had been placed into paused mode, i have tried it on different wash settings, also i have tried to carry out the reset/ diagnostic tool, but it is stuck, also the lights on front panel are showing as they would do when washer is working as it should. Any help or suggestions would be welcome please.
  24. Hi, I have a Beko WM5120W washing machine that is currently at fault, and sadly is out of warranty. There were a few minor issues which have now become greater. Initially, the only issue was that it would make a terrible noise whilst washing or spinning, this turned out to be a coin which I removed from the bottom outlet. The next issue is the one which has now caused the main problem. The start button was not working, and seemed to be broken behind the button itself. I removed the panel, found the fault (the piece of plastic that connects between the button and the PCB was snapped), and glued it back in place. While I was putting the PCB and panel back together, I noticed a few of the connections on the PCB were loose, and needed to be soldered, which I did, and it seemed to look fine. When I put it all back together, I tried to test it by running a 'quick wash'. It was on 'ready', (the led was lit), and I pressed start. After a few seconds I heard a click, which I assume was the door locking, followed by another click. I checked the door to make sure it was still locked, which it was. Usually, after not too long the machine will kick into life and start filling with water. Now, the LEDs are lit showing 'start', 'wash' and 'quick wash'. Nothing happens, and after a few minutes all the LEDs go off, and it goes back to 'ready'. I've also tried setting it to rinse, which has the same effect. Any help will be greatly appreciated as I, like a lot of people on here, cannot really afford to buy another machine right now. Thanks Paul
  25. Hi, I am having trouble with large amounts of foam leaking from the detergent dispenser drawer on my Beko WMA 767 washing machine and was hoping someone here might be able to help. I have been to excessive foam in washing machine page here: too much foam (those are my comments under the article) so that should give you an idea of what's been happening and what I've tried. I have recently moved house but used to have a similar issue in my old house only not as often as it is occurring now, it's now happening pretty much with every wash. I normally would use the Tesco own-brand liquitabs but since the foaming I read it was perhaps an idea to use powder instead so I have now switched to Bold's 2-in-1 powder but this hasn't helped at all. I know that generally the cause of too much foam is using too much powder but I get the problem even when I use half of the recommended doe for a 5-6kg load (which is 95ml on the box, so I've tried using roughly 50ml). The washing machine appears to be working fine, it is spinning correctly in both directions and not using too much water (or not enough) and the foaming only happens in the last 20 minutes of the program when it starts to go through the spin cycle and starts getting towards it's top spin speed. Normally I wash all my clothes and towels in the same load on a cotton wash at 30 degrees at 1400 spin speed, this means the wash takes 2 hours 8 minutes. I have tried just washing the towels on their own on a cotton wash but using the quick wash function so that it only takes 1 hour 22 minutes. The foaming still happens regardless and I'm sick of having to mop up the water and foam leaking out of the machine onto my floor. I have dragged the machine out from it's little space under the work top (it is located separately from the sink and has it's own waste water pipe).The cold water pipe is connected correctly and turned on fully and the drain water hose is inserted correctly into the waste water pipe. I have levelled all the feet on the machine so it won't move about as much. I've even bought some washing machine cleaner powder and done a wash with that to get rid of any dirt or limescale in the system, I've also done a few washes without any clothes in the machine to get rid of any detergent left in the machine. I'm running out of ideas now and so I'm hoping someone here might be able to help. Is it because the powder and liquitabs I was using is a 2-in-1 variety that has softener in it, could this be causing a build-up of soap suds? The only other thing I can do is see if I can get a plumber or washing machine repairman to come and take a look but I think they'll just say I'm using too much powder and fob me off, plus it may prove expensive for nothing. Any help would be great! Thanks.
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