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Cheers Andy, Response from Miele below. Seems strange that this is not clearly explained on their website, and that they have so many different versions of the same machine at the same price! Thanks

Hello. The noise sounds like either carbon brushes or the raised segment. To be perfectly honest if an amateur has a raised segment this means it is loose and I would not keep using it. The motor could burn out at any time. Take the brushes out and see if they are damaged. A raised segment will usually damage carbon brushes too. With the brushes out place your finger on the commutator and slowly turn it round. If one segment is definitely raised each revolution then the motor is shocked and it needs replacing. Back in the day we used to just replace the armature which was extremely easy these

Just wanted to close the loop on this: took me a while to get parts (LG 5220FR2075L & 5220FR2006H) and arrange for repair help, but replacing the two water inlet control valves above did solve the problem. The leak was on the cold side, but it made sense once all the trouble had been gone through to unstack the dryer and open up the washer to replace both valves. Thanks.

Disassembly had to wait to the weekend and it wasn’t until the drum was removed did the issue make itself clear. Corroded Spider. Attached photo for reference. I’m still slightly puzzled that it wasn’t more obvious before taking it all apart but never mind! New parts ordered. Thanks for all the advice. Great forum.

Here are some more photos.... the first is with both the fan box and the hot air box. They do both come out fairly easily, the fan box just pushes into the back of the drum, but remember to retrieve the rubber, slightly square seal, and reseat properly. In terms of access, if you tilt the machine then the drum moves giving you access to various bolts etc without having to take too much apart. Lastly, I use little pictures and cardboard and push the screws through as I remove them so I know where they go back and in what order. Here are all the screws you need to remove to get to

Jayj, you have spured me on last night to fix my drying issue..... so I took apart the machine and cleaned out all of the dirt/fluff.... here are some photos..... There are a number of videos to open the top of the machine, but once inside, if you open up the silver box this is were the heating elements are. There are three 30torx screws holding this down, and it is also sealed. You will need some heat resistant silicon sealant (say from Halfords) to reseal. Note that it is hinged on the right hand side. You can see all the dirt/soap scum etc inside mine. To open, undo the three torx and

Very interesting - and helping to make this thread a must-read for Miele Washer Dryer owners - even newer ones, since according to my engineer (who was too discreet to admit the stuff you heard) the newer machines use the SAME system... As I mentioned, I never had any issues with my first Indesit washer/dryer 20 odd years ago (fluff filter), nor the subsequent Zanussi (no rinse out fluff option) and they did far more drying. So I think his analysis is spot on. I didn't even realise you could use the Extra Water option with Rinse Out Fluff, but now do it. And yes, I suspect the S

Just watched a good video on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPT1_ao0wkE

Thanks for the tip/heads-up Bob12241. I've amended the Imgur post to include the points you raised. 😚

Nice album Curses-upon- Beko, Only one thing I feel I should point out and that is when testing a diode in circuit you can get confusing readings, if readings are not 100% in fault then it is advisable to de-solder 1 leg and test, thus isolating it from other components. Your readings definitely gave it as dead, whereas mine were not 100%,this affected another diode readings close by (D6).

bob12241 should be given some kind of knighthood or award or something. 17th December 2020 and his original post is STILL helping fix Beko Washing machines. Mine died. I followed bobs advice and posts. And now my washing machine is working again. I've made an imgr album containing photos from my experience. https://imgur.com/gallery/yMotcyY Bearing in mind that I haven't soldered anything ever, and I was able to fix my machine.

Hi, Those Classixx w/ms are known for the spider to fracture an arm... Take a look on youtube for some examples. Also how to replace a spider (the rivets have to be drilled out and replaced with bolts) It's quite a job as the outer drum has to be split open, but repair kits are available, depends how hands-on you are.

Thanks Bob 12241. D7 failed for me on my Beko washer dryer, that was just out of warranty. Replaced diode and all up and running now. Total cost for five diodes and postage £15.00 from Farnell UK. Thanks again Bob 👍

My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted