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Wow. The odds of you finding that are very remote. It's ridiculous that any connector would fit in the wrong place on a pcb. Bad design. Well done for not giving up.

So I was in contact with QER tech over the last week exchanged few short messages about the symptoms . He suggested that the PCB is not at fault in his opinion and generally was reluctant for me to send the board to test, he pointed to pressure sensor fault or possible earth leakage. I mentioned that I replaced the sensor and blown in it to try create different pressure to what he replied that this can damage the modern sensor. I was confused whether I've blown into the replacement sensor I got yet before I installed it so I bought another new replacement which when fitted in didn't make any change to the behavior. I then decided to buy new wires to the sensor to replace the whole pressure sensor circuit for new as I though the machine stood in showcase property and what if it never worked for some silly error and because faulty it was placed there by developer. The wire arrived today and as soon as I compared it to one on the machine the new wire connector had different guides on it which corresponded with other port on PCB which was not occupied. I tried to plug it there disconnected the original and VOILA ! PROBLEM FIXED!! The sensor was plugged in wrong port on PCB hence it was not picking up the feed from the sensor and kept switching the flood protection on. I have done a wash and dry today and works perfectly. It would have been clear immediately if there was a wiring diagram available, as such I must say it got repaired by luck. I have no clue why the connector would have been placed in wrong port, if it was repaired for other fault and then wrongly assembled and written off, no idea. I wanted to thank you Andy, for your kind advice and guidance through the course of testing. I have never had washing machine opened before and with your help I was able to begin understand how such machine works in principal. THANK YOU!!!

Oh yeah, for anyone else doing this repair, here’s a tip. Turn the drum a little before you fix the heater in. There’s a small clip inside where the heater goes that fixes the heater down away from the drum, but it’s easy to miss it. You’ll know if you’ve missed it as it makes an awful grating sound when the drum turns! Thankfully I noticed this before I’d tightned the circlips.

An update, the new element is in and the electric is no longer tripping, yay! I found it quite hard fixing the new circlips. On the YouTube video he had a tool for it. I used a piece of cut off push fit pipe to hammer them down, which kinda worked. One fixed down tight straight away but the other was more fiddly and wouldn’t go down tight. In the end I resorted to carefully tapping around it with a screwdriver and hammer. So I got the machine back together with just the top to go on and I clumsily managed to brake the plastic clips off trying to work out how to put it on, ah man! Didn’t even use much effort and they just sheared off. Anyway the machine is working, so that’s the main thing. Probably just fix the clips with some sugru. Cheers for the help Andy and all the best.

Done, thank you very much for your help!

Hi. If a washing machine is leaking you have to look where it is coming from. Nothing else can replace that You have to look inside and see where the water is coming from. I have some tips here Washing machine leaking

Great to know it won’t hurt the pump running dry, coffee machine brass pumps don’t like that at all. I contacted QER this morning, tech who repairs these PCB’s is back at work on Monday so will get to know more then. Happy weekend.

Contact them first to make sure they can help. The pump running dry won't hurt.

When the machine is plugged into mains it performs some check, interesting fact is that the door lock remains locked at all time. When the selection is left on OFF it doesn't go into draining, only when the program selection is made and program either started or not. To be honest I have left the machine draining until it stops itself only couple of times when I acquired it as I'm not sure if it is safe for the pump to be running dry. So I have to try that again to see if it produces any error itself. From what I understood from the manual it only shows the type of error which can be rectified by consumer. I think I will try to send the PCB for a test to QER next week as you suggest, I haven't found this type of PCB in their order search though so I hope they will be able to test it.

It is a bazaar noise, I shall report back if the problem is solved.

If it tests using 500v DC that would work. But it's still a lot of money to spend just to test a washing machine. It's not even certain it will find anything. It might not be that much more to get a proper engineer in, and they should tell you exactly what's wrong and even may fix it if it isn't anything too serious. The pump shouldn't have any power, have you tried safely disconnecting the live wire on the pump to see what happens? It's probably a waste of time but it might do something different. Maybe the PCB does some self checks when switched on and is finding something. However, it should abort and give an error code after detecting a fault. If it thought it was overfilling it might operate the pump but it would operate it for much longer as it is trying to get rid of a lot of water. If it thought it was overheating it would operate the pump too. But for longer, and machines I've seen reacting to overheating usually combine that with letting water in to cool everything down. So the fact that it misbehaves before even any wash cycle is selected or attempted implies it's failing a self check, or there's a fault on the pcb. If determined not to give up you could at least eliminate the pcb by sending it to QER repairs for testing and possible repair. But apart from I'd like to know what it turns out to be it remains a big gamble with your time and money.

Hi the machine is fixed. We only took the back panel off. From the front panel where the tube should of been we put a wire through there to come out from the end of the machine. We then got the tube taped it up to the wire and pulled the wire from the front panel out slowly to get the tube out. I then put the plastic cap on.

A further update: She's alive The water heating element arrived yesterday (good service from you & DPD as I only ordered Saturday PM) and was fitted this morning. I put the meter on and the heater was showing 31 ohms, thermistor around 22k ohms. I did notice the element was 1700W rather than 1800W on the original, so the water heating will be a little slower. The thermistor was also on the other side of the earth, but no problem as the connecting wire is long enough. Tried a pump out- all OK Tried a quick wash program as a test. Got three minutes in without an error F-07 throwing, tested the voltage and was seeing a full 230 VAC The machine has now completed two complete wash cycles and the backlog mountain of washing is coming down It's really quite strange that the original F-08 was solved, but an F-07 remained. The original heater element was definitely showing around 30 ohms, and metered out OK so I am glad I rechecked my work and found the open circuit. I spent hours tracing and rechecking the circuit boards to adapt the edge connectors to a different configuration. It appears that F-07 may not always refer to a failure of the heater relays, perhaps the output is limited by the board in some way to 140 VAC when the current flow is not what is expected, I'm not sure how clever the electronics on the board is ? Posting for posterity to hopefully help others, but also in case there's further insight. Curious how what seemed to be a blockage on the float was fixed and a second problem presented itself. Maybe the heater element was the issue all along, even though it checked out with a meter OK originally. I think I now have a spare control board as the first replacement I bought showed the same F-07 error. I hope I never need it.

I unplugged it for a day, replugged it and it came back to life