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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.

After posting I opened my eyes and realized the obvious: there's a metal frame at the top front of the washing machine (behind the control panel) which can be removed with 4 screws! This allowed me to attach the water valve first, then have enough room to (firmly but carefully) push the water distributor forward and attach it to the water valve. Pictures say more than words, so see below. As you can see, I also disconnected the cable from the front control panel (buttons, display etc.) which wasn't easy and could possibly risk damaging the cable/plug. In hindsight I could probably just leave the front panel dangling and still be able to attach the water valve/water distributor. You can see how it's now possible to attach the new parts, with the extra room in the front. Note that the front end of the water distributor is to be aligned with the holes in the metal frame (after the metal frame and front panel has been re-attached), with screws on the right hand side (view from front). When attaching the existing cable connectors to the water distributor I found they didn't fit! The two connectors were all wrong -the old water distributor didn't have any such connectors, but the mating connectors went directly on a couple of electronic circuit board (PCB) "slots". It turned out the white plastic "frames" on the new water distributor were easily removable by pulling them outwards with pliers! Then the old connectors would fit. See photo below: I suppose the water distributor might be used with other washing machine models using different connectors or later sales of this washing machine had revised cable designs or something. The good news is that now, with a new water distributor, water valve, door-switch and a good cleaning (I took the time to manually clean the inside of the water inlet dispenser-hose (filled with grime), the inside of the rubber door-seal (also filled with dirt) as well as the water outlet (front left bottom of the machine) to get rid of any sand and dirt. Finally I've given it a full 95 degree cycle with one of those cleaning packs from the local supermarket. I won't be surprised if our clothes get a lot cleaner after all this! By the way, can someone suggest what I do about all the rust spots below where the detergent drawer goes (1st photo in this posting)? I believe there are enamel repair kits, but based on prior experience they haven't really worked that well.

And I also need to correct the guesswork in the latter part of this thread - at some point, after looking at another's user olde Miele, it appeared to be the case that the heater fan in his model was located in the bottom of the washer/dryer. Mistake - in the case of the WT2780 the heater fan is definitely on the top of the machine, though a duct connects this fan to something at the bottom of the machine, but not sure what....

Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but he was clearly trained in how to push blame for any washer-dryer failure promptly back to the customer: After explaining symptoms (no fault code, but no hot air for dry/steam, horrible white gunge being put onto washing in drum during every other wash) he asked me "and are you aware of the Rinse Out Fluff feature?" Could have been my imagination, but the way it tripped off his tongue meant that he was well used to asking that question and getting a confused 'No?' from the owner (after all, the RoF feature is only mentioned in the middle of the lengthy manual, which probably half the customer base will never bother to read). "Yes", I said tartly, knowing what was going to be coming next. "Right... and have you remembered to use it AFTER EVERY DRYING CYCLE?!" - Again, the rising tone in his voice suggested that many of the poor s*ds who answered "Yes" to the first question might have made the mistake of answering "No" to this second question. I could have wasted a bit of time by reminding him that the language in the Manual regarding the RoF feature was not exactly apocalyptic: "Run the Rinse out fluff programme before the machine is used again so that fluff cannot be deposited on the next load (e.g. fluff from dark garments being deposited on lighter coloured items) or cause a blockage." And this just located on p.45 in the manual. (As we now know, for many Miele Washer/Dryer owners, the RoF feature should really be in red ink, with words along the lines of "Please remember that if you don't use the RoF function immediately after every single use of the drying function, your £2000 machine is likely to break down just after the 2-year warranty expires and cost you upwards of £500 to repair. Your call") After all the hours wasted researching this fault, I decided to be polite but firm "Yes, every time. And I am well aware that this issue is due to a design fault common in Miele Washer-Driers, whereby soap powder congeals along the hot air system and cannot be cleaned out by the end-user, thus leading to issues with the safety thermostat and other parts." What was interesting was that as soon I said this, he did not faff around going off to 'ask his supervisor' or similar, but immediately booked the call. It is possible that he and other customer-facing colleagues know the issue with the washer-dryers, and so when confronted with someone who clearly knows it too, they give up trying to blind customers with science. Anyhow, the repair guy duly arrived and fortunately he was not a dud. He was excellent, very efficient, actually able to work on the machine at the same time as discussing it, and very loyal to the company (probably too loyal - he avoided giving too much away about these dryer issues when asked direct questions). I had been ready for an engineer who simply walked in, reset the thermostat and walked out - but as soon as he stepped through the door he said 'This will take about 2 hours', so I knew that either he was going to do a full dryer system clean out or parts replacement. Turned out to be the latter, i.e. he brought a top element box and fan, and a long plastic oblong duct thing, which I believe connects the heater to the suds container below? Pleased to say that when he took the various panels off, the machine itself inside looked very clean - which of course it should do after we have religiously bought and used all the various over-priced Miele de-lousers, and given the fact that it has probably only had the equivalent of 3-4 years use, if that. The key question - how the supposedly intelligent electronics could not detect that the heater was no longer heating and display an error code - was one he couldn't answer, or maybe preferred not to (I assume the real answer is along the lines of "yeah, I know people pay £2k for these machines, but the design guys don't think it worth putting in another temperature sensor that would pick up on the fact that no hot air is coming out during a drying cycle ..." As someone who generally respects German design, I was still intrigued as to whether this dryer failure issue was just a design flaw in my machine series and older, so asked if the drying system was the same in the new means. "Yes, fortunately!" he answered enthusiastically. This did perplex me a little - I can only assume that most repair guys take the view "sure, the system our machines use gets gunged up and conks even if you do use the RoF feature, but at the end of the day all we need to do is replace these two parts and it is rendered as good as new - and of course Miele customers can afford to pay, otherwise they would not be buying machines that are 2-3 times the price of the competition" A warning to anyone just about to purchase a new Miele washer/dryer I guess. Some might say that I am being a little harsh, but I know exactly how well cared for this machine has been, and how we have always used the RoF feature after every dry - so heaven help a harassed mum/dad with 4 kids and 12 wash/dries a week and no time to read the manual or use all the various Miele machine cleaning products. I'd have more respect for Miele if they took two simple steps - #1, move the Rinse Out Fluff instruction to page 1 of the manual or maybe #2 simply build a Rinse Out Fluff cycle into every drying cycle (you open the door, take the dried clothes out, slam the door, it RoFs and then turns off). While we are at it, maybe #3 - spend a Euro or two on putting another over-heat sensor near the heating element that gets gunged up, so that at least the machine gives a reliable error code - I never got the infamous '55' error displayed, which for all I know meant that the fan stopped working but the element was left getting hotter than a nuclear reaction inside my white box. BTW, out of interest, I downloaded the Manual for their newest, priciest washer-dryer, to see if it had been updated in anway - nope, same wishy-washy text re Rinse Out Fluff, buried deep in the centre. Fingers crossed that when ours goes again, it is in the week before the expiry of the warranty... Thanks to the various people here who contributed info that enabled me to talk knowledgeably to Service Centre and so secure a decent repair first time around. J For google: Miele washer dryer WT2780 WT 2780 drying problems issues cold air no 55 error message debris gunge white grey on clothes Waschtrockner lave-linge sechant

Well, finally got a warranty repair on this (and it might be that the dryer system for the WT2780 is different from older models such as the WT945). Shall post details under a new title, so easier to find for anyone else pulling their hair out.

Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not enough it didn't register with me that that was the problem I have attached the part that was replaced. It's a part I cleaned from underneath but didn't think the inside was all clogged up. Little did I know. Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Gary

I've contacted both Arcelik in Turkey who make the dryers for Beko, and Beko themselves. And for good measure I have filled out an online form for UK and Ireland trading standards . it said on their website 'if you think you have come across a safety issue on an appliance fill out this form and we will see if it needs investigating' - so out of that lot , someone should get back to me. i have contacted Beko in the past about a condenser dryer not drying fully and they were terrible after sales service, so I am not expecting too much from them, but maybe Trading Standards might reply about it. its only little static electric shocks I am getting from it when I remove the clothes after they have dried but still..

I would definitely contact the manufacture, especially if you are getting small shocks from it. They should be able to tell you if the drum should be earthed or not.

Found this on another forum, after I'd tried everything on this one and still had the same beeps driving me insane. Take the top of the washing machine, 2 screws at the back near the top, the lid pops off at angle from there. Look to the front of the machine at the top and see the circuit board, you need to remove this, unscrew the screws holding the aluminium bar that sits at the top front of the machine (this gets in the way otherwise), then unscrew the 3 screws holding the circuit board in place, then (this is fiddly) pop the circuit board out from the plastic clips holding it in - once out, look at the front of it, the round dial where the main twist button of the machine goes in too, needs to be removed from the board, it has several red plastic holders holding it in place, take this dial bit off the board and you'll reveal what looks like a small bit of copper with 3 or 4 prongs on it. That needs cleaning, it often has grease/oil on it, wipe it clean (gently) and dry it, then put it all back together, ensuring the dial bit goes back on the exact way you took it off, it has a flat bit within the hole that needs to match up with the flat bit of the dial (it should make sense when you see it). I did this and thankfully it worked a treat, no more beeps at all. Apparently the guy that posted this online is an engineer and says this clears that fault 9 times out of 10. If it doesn't, you have a faulty board and that isn't a cheap fix. good luck

Unless things have changed, all the brown goods manufacturers seem to make average quality washing machines no better or worse than the rest but they seem to focus their efforts on innovation and novelty as they do with brown goods. So to me their top models are just average quality with expensive features, and because they are all at the other side of the world they have to rely on third party networks for after sales in the UK, which is far from ideal. They rock in brown goods though. No idea why they bother with white goods.

Hi Andy. For me washing machines are just too functional and unreliable, and don't last long enough to justify spending obscene amounts on one

Many thanks Andy.

does indeed look like the moisture sensor bar , at the bottom of the drum , inside the drum itself - imaging that tearing off like that. Pretty bad. All i can think is that a bit of clothing catches on the metal strip sensor and then must 'pull' it out of the sensor bar housing cover . pretty poor design in that respect . I have just bought a new BEKO vented tumble dryer with sensor drying and I have noticed on these new ones they have removed the moisture bars totally from inside the drum altogether and have now put a sensor for detecting the moisture right underneath the lint/fluff filter now. Harder to get to, to clean, but no change of it getting ripped off and caught up in your washing though!

Just wanted to say that I also had the same problem... for the second time in a year. The first time I had no idea where to start, called a local engineer, he couldn't fix it as he didn't have spares. Then ended up spending £175 on a year's extended plan, and the Beko engineer came and replaced the board. When it failed again this year I thought of replacing the board myself. Came across this discussion...bob12241 You're an absolute star! From £175, the cost of the repair this time went down to £1.75 for a new diode! Thank you!

For reference, the post with my problem and eventual solution is here: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/857052-ise-10-w256w-asko-wm70-1-won-t-turn-on

Thanks. Looks like too many 30 degree washes have killed my machine. I will be more careful with the new one

I will have a good read of it and follow through with all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated!!

Hi Leon. Thanks for that. Yes that drum spider is seriously corroded and cracked. That means as the drum revolved there would be movement of the drum on the shaft. The large marks show that with certain loads the back of the drum has been catching on the outer tub and should have been making metallic scraping noises. Just make sure you follow the advice in my following articles to try and prevent your new washing machine from suffering the same fate (if lucky enough to last that long) as the corrosion is associated with grease, slime and limescale build up - Washing machine smells caused by grease and slime build up inside Don't wash too much on 30 degrees - Washing at 30 degrees – 5 things you need to know Limescale In Washing Machines

You can take the screws off the top if the fan unit and the top will move far enough to access the fan to remove the lint, but it is very fiddly and time consuming. We did this, but a couple of months later the sensor has tripped again.

I’ve been very careful with the loading, making sure that the 5kg drying limit (8kg wash) isn’t exceeded and with the drum clean run monthly as per the instructions. Either way it’s now a lot easier to remove the fan assembly now that I’ve cut that ridiculous obstruction off. Whipping the fan out is now a simple 10 minute affair and a worthwhile modification. Will revisit the fan in 6 months or so and post an update on the condition.

I've had the same issue for a while and ive just discovered if I lightly press anywhere on the front panel (around screen and buttons) it causes a the beep to occur. At least i can now demonstrate this to the engineer. I assume it is a circuit board problem.

For reference, the post is here: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/91443-ise-w288-eco-no-power

I'm not sure what it is, but after much searching around I actually found the seal, it had fallen down inside the machine and lodged itself between another couple of parts. ON retrieving it and reasembling the parts problem solved. I felt a little stupid afterwards by not noticing it missing in the first place. Disasembling all the pipes etc. was so difficult without the correct tools that it must of dropped out with out me noticing. Still while it was all in pieces I cleaned all the pipes etc. thoroughly, so a worthwhile venture.

Hi Andy, I had to admit defeat with a family of four and no washing machine, and call in the local dealer where we bought the machine..they diagnosed a cracked spindle, base on play between the inner and outer drum..I guess this is where experience comes in - I didn't think it was excessive, but the engineer thought it was. Thanks again, very much appreciate your help. I did enjoy the journey anyway. I think I'll strip my machine down for parts, as there does seem to be a market on eBay for motors, main boards, etc

Thank you Bob and team! D7 Diode replaced on a 18 month old machine with minimal use in our holiday lodge. Another successful cheap fix here! £1.75 including P&P Much to my husbands surprise and delight. (Although the extra screws, plastic stay and double-sided sticky tape that holds the black box on did flummox him to start with). Beko you must take this problem seriously and get all your WDIR7543101 's with this issue fixed free of charge to keep some loyal customers from leaving you.

Hello Andy. Sorry I didn't pay much attention to this as it's tumble dryers and it's only supposed to be washing machine forums. I have thought about opening it up to other appliances but I like the fact that it specialises in washing machines and it's enough work for me just dealing with washing machines :-) some tumble dryers have different settings for different types of dryness. Our tumble dryer for example allows you to set options for cupboard dry or extra dry for example. If anything I would expect a vented dryer to be a bit more efficient. Also there is a problem when mixing different fabrics that can confuse dryers. So for example if most of the fabrics in the drum become dry but there's just one or two different fabrics that haven't tried yet the dryer can end up sensing that its job is done and stop drying. Many modern tumble dryers detect dryness via a brush that trails on the drum.

Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.