Leaderboard

Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!

Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER

Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob

>>Ha ha that's a bit unfair I couldn't have been more balanced<< :o) - sorry, for a minute there I could imagine the kind of excuses my Miele 'engineer' might come out with - am sure that if Miele took you on as a 'change management consultant' you could whip them into shape in 3 months, Andy! (Interestingly, I looked at the GlassDoor employee comment site, and it sounds like the company might be in a bit of an upheaval at the moment strategy-wise, lots of outsourcing mentioned at the German end.) >>Have you seen that the tubing from the fan right up to the heating element chamber have accumulated debris? I would have guessed that it would only accumulate in the metal heating element chamber.<< I daren't take the top off the darn thing at the moment, in case the engineers shrieks "Guarantee violation! Guarantee violation!" at me. However one really doughty owner has posted the following, which suggest that the issue is as you say i.e. with the fan box and the element, but not necessarily with the endless tubing connecting the two (he is talking about the wt945 model, but I assume the WT2780 might have the same arrangement): https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177912-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_stage https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177920-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_1_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177928-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_2_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177934-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_3_4_fix This is the key info, relating to the difficult-to-reach fan box at the bottom of the machine: "The next stage is to attempt a cleanout of the fan box itself. Fortunately you can get to some of what is needed without dismounting the whole box (if you want to bite the bullet on this straight away, go to Stage 3). Dismount the heater by undoing the two large bolts at the front holding it to the drum, and two Torx bolts at the rear. Although the heater is still attached to the flexible rubber outlet at the front, it will swing up and off to one side just enough to reveal an upward-facing hole at the rear – this is the air outlet from the fan box. Peer down into this hole and you will be astonished at the buildup of mummified fluff and goo – it’s similar to papier mache. Draw up a comfortable chair, fix up a desk lamp to shine down the hole, and start unpicking the goo with a fine metal hook (a dentist-style hooked probe is ideal – Maplin do a good set). First clean out the hole, then probe deeper to clean out each fan blade. It’s fiddly and quite a long reach down the hole, but by no means impossible. Turn the motor manually to move on to the next blade, and every so often vacuum out the hole with a small nozzle to remove the pile of dislodged goo. Unfortunately the goo is too adherent to come out with the vacuum alone, without unpicking first." Again, this all points to a major design flaw IMHO. When I finally get the Miele visit, I shall make sure to be hovering with phone cam. Quite happy to go to Small Claims Court if they decide to get a*sey about honouring the guarantee - seems they always back down when faced with SCC. Scratching my head about why all this gunge somehow goes back up the door vent, into the element box on the top of the machine, and then down into the fan box - if it is due to powder-rich condensation from the drum during a wash, then the bottom line is that they need to fit some sort of automatic flap over that particular orifice. Would not expect Bosch, AEG etc. to necessarily spend the cash to do it, but for that £1000 premium I handed Miele, yes I would indeed expect it. p.s. amazed at how many people mention the near impossibility of getting hold of Miele manuals - bit late now we are exiting the EU, but I would have thought that would be open to a complaint regarding restriction of competition?

Hi again, >>I also checked out six other well-known washing machine brands and they are all exactly the same. Two stars, one star, "<< yeah, think you are right there. If I hadn't been so exhausted reading through every single Miele entry, I had intended to do the same! (Ironically, one of the few companies to get 3+ stars is.. Indesit, i.e. el cheapo) I agree about the reviews being skewed to people who complain (as they are more likely to vent their feelings than satisfied people) - shame the National Appliance Federation or whatever it is called does not mandate an independent email survey of registered customers at the 2 year stage, would be very handy, I do think that Miele should be held to higher standards however - first of all, many of the lousy repairs cited with other manufacturers will have been carried out by third party engineers - unlike Miele, where you are more or less forced to use their guys/gals. If I remember rightly, they justify this along the lines of 'our machines are so advanced, it would not make sense to let possibly untrained engineers repair them'. Yeah, right - if I do have to pay for a repair, I'll be hunting out a competent independent - assuming they can get hold of manuals and parts. Talking of parts, have you checked out the latest prices? Looking at espares, it looks like the following: Washing Machine Drain Pump = £114 Washing Machine Door Hinge = £68 Heater element = Washing Machine Heater Element - 2650W = £104 Washing Machine Outer Door Frame = £207 etc. etc. Could be wrong, but looking quickly over e.g. AEG prices (so, mid-range) they are generally 50% of the price or less. Think you have also pointed this out in past articles. As you probably noticed from the Miele reviews (after weeding out the ones from the ignorant whiners) the story seems to be: The machine failed - we called Miele - they argued the toss about the warranty, if there was one - they then took ages to send their repair guy/gal, often cancelling at the last minute - the first repair often did not work - and often if they did offer to repair out of warranty, the parts cost was so astronomical we were left thinking better to junk and replace. I wish I had access to the cost spreadsheets for Miele but in the absence of those, my (totally uneducated) guess would be this - I can get a nice-enough looking Beko washer-dryer WDA914401W for £422, with a Best Buy rating from the blessed Which?. Now, clearly the Miele has a better outer drum (steel - so lasts far longer and is impervious to objects making holes in it), plus a better external finish (really tough enamel). I would guess that unlike my Miele, the Beko suspension etc. could not deal with just a single pair of jeans (rapidly becoming my number one reason for buying a Miele). Does it have better electronics, which are better protected? From what I have seen, unlikely (and a detailed review on the German site made it clear that the workings of the newer Miele control panels are totally counter-intuitive). But of course the Miele model is, at cheapest, £1700 - i.e. £1278 dearer.... and (total guess) I assume that the steel outer drum and the nice enamel exterior and even the better suspension should only add at max £150 in construction cost. Let's be charitable and say that leaves + £1000 in extra cost price. At £422, if the dryer seizes up etc. after 2 years (remember, our Miele is showing key faults at 8.5 years of very low usage, so really just 2-3 years normal usage), then I have a fairly easy choice - chuck the Beko and replace, or go to Joe/Joanna round the corner and let them do a repair, probably max £150. My gripe about Miele (echoed by others) is that they claim absolute superiority in quality and design, and that darned 'Built for 20 years - but we only guarantee for 2 years' tripe. I do believe their washing machines (in the past at least) qualified for this statement, and also their hoovers and probably their dishwashers too. As for their other appliances - and especially their washer dryers - not so sure.

I guess it was just my way of saying thanks. You saved me about £200, so thanks to you!

They actually didn't charge anything.. just a charge to return the board. But officially, they charge £33.49 (through eBay) and then give the following refunds; 1. If No Fault Found following full functional testing, we will refund you 25% 2. If No Fault Found but we don't have a full functional test, we will refund you in full 3. If we are unable to repair, we will refund you in full. 4. If you want it returned, there will be a £3.50 deduction for shipping. I guess I was option 2, although I'm not sure how thoroughly they have been able to test it. I should get it back tomorrow. Anyway, in the meantime, I Have stripped down the washer dryer for parts on eBay, and have purchased a new machine. :-) Trying a Samsung this time, as it has a 5 year warranty - never had Samsung before, so I hope that's not a mistake.

Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.

Thanks Andy Good summary and considered opinion, I fully agree with you. I wish I knew this when my wife was singing the virtues of these machines and we made the mistake of buying one. No more washer/dryers for me. Thank you very much.

Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob

Getting back to our wonderful WT2780 - shades of deja vu as yet again I go traipsing around the internet for clues... This thread is particularly interesting, as the guy clearly has techical nouse regarding the drying issue of his Miele model (4 web pages via link) - https://www.fixya.com/support/t1615585-miele_wt945_washer_dryer And here they give photos of the dubious dryer unit itself: https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying What I think I've learned so far is: - the element for the dryer unit sits in a metal box above the drum - I assume either air passes over (drying) or a mix of air and water passes through (for the ritzy 'steam' function - this element box may not be part of the 'rinse out fluff' and/or able to be descaled* - fluff definitely collects there causing overheating (and the need for initally a reset, but eventually a manual delousing). - the fan unit is positioned at the bottom of the machine, and is the most difficult item in the machine to access and take apart (according to at least one Miele engineer, resulting in Miele only offering to replace the entire unit (at £400), though a competent amateur is able to take apart and clean (with time and effort). - the fan unit may have some inherent design fault, as part of the gubbins frequently gums up and has to be meticulously cleaned and re-assembled periodically - the rinse out fluff feature fails to work properly as designed, leading to people having to use long pincers to jiggle and extract gungey fluff which has turned to something ghastly and practically immovable over time - one German owner commented that when he took the fan unit apart, he was appalled at the cheap quality of the electronics (he could have been a bit of an exaggeration merchant) - one (satisfied) German owner commented that the machine was great, but had two key flaws - a) that it broke down if you did not use Rinse-Out-Fluff, and b) that it broke down if you did not use the drying feature every so often (interesting, as obviously we haven't been able to recently) *the comment about the descaling/rinsing of the element box, or absence of, is what really intrigues me. As mentioned, we do use the descaler and cleaner as advised - but I am now wondering how this stuff is routed within the machine. Basically the instructions are just 'throw the powder in the drum and run at 60+ degrees'. Not mechanically minded, but I assume that this does indeed clean the drum and main element (as it sloshes around) and does indeed clean the hoses leading down to the pump and outlet (as the powder circulates and eventually disappears via the outlet). But the big question is... does the powder ever make it in liquid form to the element box on the top of the drum? - if the steam function does involve water being passed over the element there (as opposed to the main element in the machine), then obviously descaling is required there. Ditto, does the cleaning powder make it around the air pipes leading to the top element box? I assume not, but given that the technically gifted user has photos to show the way fluff accumulates there despite frequent Rinse Out Fluffs... I'm determined not to go to my grave without finding the answer to these fascinating mysteries... mainly because if Miele have indeed designed a £1500-£2500 machine in such a way that fluff-clogging is inevitable even if users follow their advice, and fan-gumming and eventual failure and a £400 bill is also inevitable, then... ... the 'designed for 20 year lifespan' is clearly a load of old c*bblers, as far as WT models are concerned, and consequently innocent little ole' customer such as yours truly and others are due either a totally free overhaul or ideally a brand spanking new machine and 10yr warranty to go with it (I can dream). But what we really need is some decent anonymous Miele engineer to come on here and spill the beans (or correct the assumptions of myself and others). C'mon, surely there must be at least one in the UK who knows the washer/dryers inside out and is willing to tell all?! (failing that, does anyone have a PDF manual for people to pore over?) p.s. having had washer-dryers since they first came out, I remember our first was an Indesit - and taking the top off, there seemed to be what looked like an industrial steel hairdryer lying flat on the top. Not an elegant solution, and there was often fluff in the usual filter down below which needed scooping out every other week, but on the other hand it flaming well worked more reliably than this precious Miele! (suggesting that for washer-dryers at least, Italian smarts beat German smarts).

Hi Andy, and thanks for continuing to keep this site going - very handy Let me see if I can find the research I did on this on my PC.... [10 minutes later] sorry can't find the actual review which mentioned this. However I do remember the details - the customer had the same issue as me (Miele FF conked at 2.5 years) and a decent Miele repair guy had said that they estimated about 1-2% of the FFs came out of the (Liebeherr?) factory with this as a potential inherent defect (something to do with the gas and tubing) and that the main way to recognise a faulty unit was the type of noise coming from the rear. Personally I always leave 24 hours before switching on any fridge unit after moving, so not due to that! Apologies, I might have been too vague in saying that a 'cracking' noise was a definite indicator - as you say, even the replacement model I was given (and which has worked fine for 7.5 years) makes a cracking sound now and then. Looking back, the noise from the first, faulty model was much louder and sort-of-different. I think the review I noticed was actually left on the Which? website - interestingly Which? took the unilateral decision to stop allowing people to comment on Product Review pages, probably because so many (coherent) reviews were posted contradicting their glowing reviews (including Which? members who pay almost a £10 a month for their sub). Which? had reviewed lots of Miele FFs and given them Best Buy status a few years back - then all of a sudden they seemed to stop reviewing the brand range, which seemed odd. At the moment there are only 1-2 listed. As much as, like you, I love my Miele for its washing performance and solid feel, if you haven't gone over and looked at the Miele Great Britain pages on Trustpilot, worth doing - in between the usual unrealistic ranters there is quite a fascinating thread of customer experiences! (For balance, have to say my fairly basic Miele dishwasher has worked faultlessly for almost 10 years, as has my 15 year old Miele vacuum with powered head). Wonder if Miele allow customer visits to their washing machine factories these days? Always enjoyable to see how things are made.

Thanks so much for helping - I found the casing was stuck in place with strong foam sticky tape - hard to get out but with someone tilting the machine back for me it went back so much easier and thankfully the machine has now has power after replacing the diode - so thanks very very much

Hello Barry, it seems the majority of new washing machines have sealed outer drums now. The symptoms you describe are classic drum bearing failure. The brown rust marks at the back are caused by water leaking into the bearings through the drum bearing seal. In my experience Hotpoint have always had rubbish drum bearing seals. Drum bearing failure has always been a very common issue. I would never buy a Whirlpool, Hotpoint or Indesit appliance. To be honest, there are very few of the common brands I would buy.

Hi thanks for reply I put a non conductive spacer in interlock to force contacts together, I did not link terminals on loom The triacs on the board obviously blew when the door interlock failed (major arcing in armature housing) My wife thought slamming door would fix it

Hi Lesley The whole unit complete with casing comes out, in previous post I said that you have to jiggle it about, passing it down and under some pipes or other obstructions. You may have to cut 1 or 2 cable ties that hold the wiring loom in place in order to get enough slack to remove it. I assume the screws you are talking about are the ones that hold the casing in place, if not you have to remove them first. If you google "main circuit board Beko WDx854130w" and go to images you will see some with and some without the case. Regards Rob

Just signed up to thank gus for his post, had same issue and before reading this I had bypassed the interlock with no joy, interlock obviously shorted and took out the triacs on board purchased new of eBay for 2.38 gbp and soldered to board and fixed machine Attached picture of which one blew

hello, Thank you so much for sharing this helpful information, it helped me alot Thanks and regards.:)

Hi. If it's tripping at random on wash, but trips every time on dry then that's strange. If it's tripping at random on wash, and trips at random on drying cycle that is more in line with what would be expected with an intermittent tripping the electrics fault. It seems like it is tripping on both wash and dry cycle so clearly the washing machine is of little use until it is properly repaired. Intermittent tripping can be caused by either leaks running onto electrical parts or chafed wires somewhere that touch something metal during the wash cycle. The latter can be frustratingly intermittent and influenced by the weight of the laundry inside. In other words a heavy load, or a load that is a bit out of balance can cause the tub to bounce about more on spin and subsequently allow the bare wire to touch the casing. Tripping the electrics every single time would only be caused by a chafed wire if it was constantly touching and shorting to earth, which is very unlikely, or an insulation fault on one of the components. The most common components to cause fusing or tripping of the electrics is either the washing machine heating element, or the dryers heating element, followed by suppressors, capacitors, and motors. An engineer would put his insulation test meter on the washing machine and test for a reading between live or neutral and earth. If there is one you would then have to work out where the leak is coming from. This is achieved by disconnecting suspected parts and seeing if the leak disappears. However, a more accurate method is to disconnect suspected parts and test them individually by putting one probe of the insulation test meter on the metal casing of the part and the other probe on each individual electrical connection point to check for a reading. As the meter uses 500 V DC but the washing machine and uses 230 volts there is some leeway for small readings. I forget the exact amount that is tolerated. But usually if an insulation leak is tripping the electrics or blowing the fuse is then there is usually a direct short to earth and the needle will shoot straight over.

Hi Jonboyuk I mentioned it's location and how to remove the unit in a previous post on this subject, it is housed in a black enclosure (located at the lower rear RH side) which either unclips or has a few screws to remove the top cover. This applies to the Beko WDX8543130W and not your model, although it is likely similar in construction and different models use a variation to this PCB (not compatible though). I would check the same location if I were you. Please let me know how you go on for future reference. Regards Rob

Normally a fault on the washer dryer section does not affect the washing machine. It's possible that whatever is causing the electrics to trip has nothing to do with the dryer and it was just coincidental. This fault needs an insulation test meter to track exactly where the electricity is leaking to earth. Please let us know if you get to the bottom of it.

Hey Andy, well like the good sheep I already replaced it to no avail. It wasn't take costly to try compared to getting someone to come and take a look at it. I think there is a good chance it's the pressure chamber, things seem to add up to it. I'll take a look this weekend. Thanks again Andy.

I have exactly the same problem.. Hotpoint WMEF742 bleeps at random throughout the wash cycle. It started doing it when machine was about 5 years old? Water pressure fine so definitely not that. Often completes a cycle with no bleeps at all. Heats up and washes fine. I have just pressed the delay timer button as advised by someone previously and the bleeping has stopped! The manufacturer must be aware of this obvious fault as there are so many people posting on here with the same problem?

Check whether your machine is on the recall list first, a potential fire is a lot worse. Check / clean the pump filter. If that doesn't resolve it then pressing the Delay button once during the cycle should temporarily stop the beeping until the next wash.

It could be physically broken and expands and touches the casing when hot. You could try having a look at it. If it looks ok you’d need the insulation test meter.

Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics

Same mistake here. I got it "semi-easily" out by screwing a large long screw through the rubber in the middle and then pulling out from the screw. The rubber came out with the screw quite easily and then the whole heater came out. Hope it helps.

This was exactly what happened to my 18 month old beko, I bought a soldering iron and with zero experience replaced the diode and saved myself a small fortune. thanks bob and other posters. as a side note I (stupidly) soldered the diode the wrong way round initially and this resulted in the display flashing slowly on and off. cheers, david

Hi Andy, yes it's definitely the fan. I am a retired television engineer and the electronics are not a problem for me. I am disappointed though, the machine has not had excessive use and the washer part is still fine. However, thanks again Terry.

Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?

Thanks for the reply Andy, that is helpful. I have dismantled the dryer and checked the fan etc. I will carry on with the fault finding and let you know what I find, Terry

I had exactly the same issue and when I checked the diode mentioned above it turned out to be blown, replaced the diode and the machine works fine.

Not surprising really, a lot of manufacturers use identical boards in different models, Need to let owners of this model Know as well. I went off looking for the source of these boards Yesterday and best I could find was wholesalers in China are selling them, so there we go. Regards Rob

Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back to the repairers showing them the website and giving them the spare diodes. While I was there, they opened up another circuit board they's ordered for a broken BEKO and lo and behold it was the same circuit. They thanked me (even though I have done them out of some business!), but said that they only replace circuit boards so they can guarantee the parts for 12 months. I cannot thank this forum and Bob12241 enough for this very cheap fix. It now gives me a bit more confidence not to throw things away when they are broken, but try and have them fixed at the component level. I just hope more people find this fix and save a whole load of money and BEKO washing machines live a lot longer.

Hi All I have just received a reply from Beko regarding the problem, their reply is as follows:- Dear Mr ******, Thank you for your Email. I was sorry to hear of this issue with your BEKO washer dryer and glad you were able to resolve it in such a cost effective way. Your comments regarding the design of the circuit board have been passed to our technical department to feed back to the factory. Please accept my apologies for the inconvenience this has caused. Kind Regards, Kind Regards, ****** ******** Customer Service advisor My comments regarding the design focused on the failures and also there are no on board fuses, meaning the board could potentially burn up before blowing the main fuse. During my working life all the PCB's I have worked with had close protection by on board fusing. Lets see if anything further materialises. Regards Rob

would anyone be able to tell me the rating on the D6 diode just to the right of D7. Like a few others ,want to thank bob12241 for his post. Make that 8 .

Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob

Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241

Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.

Hi, we have this issue with that model of washer/dryer. Do you know which diode this is/do you have a picture? Our washing machine stopped working mid wash and didn't drain. All the plugs, fuses, pipes and filters are fine, but the machine won't turn on. Thinking it's a PCB issue but of you found a diode that isn't working, ours could be the same too. My husband is an electrician so can probably check the diodes. You can email me on lydia.yip@live.co.uk. thanks

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.

Hi, I just had to reply to your post - I have had the same problem but managed to resolve it...I very recently bought a used 3 yr old Miele washer dryer and was so excited - it was delivered and I ran the service wash - 95 degrees - to clean out the machine. Result - the bottom of the drum had lots of grit and sand in it - tried it again - same result. I have since discovered that the grit is simply hard water deposits which probably shook loose when the machine was moved, when the high temperature and descaler had done their job and by the high spin I used to 'clear out the pipes' so to speak. I used the 'rinse out fluff' programme nearly 40 times and each time there was grit - sometimes less and sometimes more - eventually the grit had all been cleared from the machine. I occasionally get a smidgeon of grit when I run the rinse out fluff cycle now but only occasionally and very little appears. The previous owners must have had extremely hard water as evidenced by the completely gummed up fabric softener dispenser. I lived in rented accommodation for years and so had many types of washing machine and the Miele was far superior to anything else - I had a Miele dishwasher which was 36 years old and still going strong. When they go wrong the repairs are ridiculously expensive and I agree that Miele support is not what it once was. In the meantime though - they are marvellous and wash beautifully - no other brand comes near it in my experience. One thing to be aware of though - if you book a service visit online then in the contract you are agreeing to accept either a Miele engineer - the genuine article - or a local repair service authorised by Miele - thus I will book a service by phone and ensure I am getting the genuine article - I once had a local repair man, authorised by Miele, who had never seen inside a washer dryer let alone done a course on how to repair one!!! Hope this has been of some help and your enjoyment of your machine has not been too spoiled.