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Hey Andy, thanks for replying to my topic. I’ve read the article and your reply and that makes a lot of sense. I use gel detergent so I will try switching to a powder. I always put the same amount of detergent in the wash but how much laundry goes in is always different, which explains why some washes are fine (as there is enough detergent) but others end up with items getting grease marks on them (probably not enough detergent). I’ll try switching to powder and experimenting with how much I use and see if that makes a difference. thanks again, really appreciate it 😊

Hello Joeleen. Yes you wouldn't expect it would be possible for the insides of a new washing machine to be so dirty and greasy. This looks to me as if it might be redistributed grease and dirt. In other words grease and dirt that has come out of laundry but not been held in the detergent and flushed away, but instead being redeposited on different laundry. Try to read the following article carefully and make sure that you are not overloading the drum and that you are using a good quality detergent (preferably powdered not liquid) and using the proper amount as described on the box. The amount required is determined by how dirty laundry is and whether you have hard or soft water. Contrary to popular belief the detergent companies don't tell you to use way too much. In my experience most people tend to put nowhere near enough detergent in and this can have a very detrimental effect over a few years to the washing machine inside. Grease marks on clothes after washing

Hey - update on the Miele... Another engineer came out today - and found the fault. It was a dodgy suspension spring!

Hi Andy, thanks for that. I suppose I should explain the background. I don't need the machine to work at all as I have a spare, but all the same, it's still better than a Candy. I'm not sure the bearing seal needs a sealant, but I've always felt a shaft seal will bed in better (especially on a used shaft) if it has a touch of lubrication. A friend of mine who used to work in the Italian "Rex" (now part of Electrolux) washing machine factory seemed to agree, but we never got into the finer details of what type of grease. He suggested checking the seal was correctly seated which it seems to be. The machine was 20 years old from a medium-sized household including a man with incontinence, and it's obvious it has had a lot of use. It was a project I took on for the fun of it if I'm remotely honest. "Rinses" light was flashing indicating a motor circuit fault, but a new relay and fuse on the PCB, new (pattern) shock absorbers (which appear to be little different from the originals), and a new front bearing put it firmly back in the useable category, although the door glass has severe scratching. A lot of faff, but the total for spare parts came to €45, which I was happy with. The hose that feeds the tub from the dispenser had cracked and was leaking. I used silicone sealant to repair as a new hose was £58 (though I am tempted to stretch to this). The Miele bearing seal (having checked again) is over £100. Obviously you should ideally also replace the spider, but this is a Miele from the period when the spider was being made from a zinc alloy (Miele tells me it has gone back to using stainless now) and I've previously had a price of £450 for this spare, which is obviously not affordable. So, while a new Miele of this quality would be around the £900 mark, just the three genuine parts above would reach £600, which is, I understand, a gripe of yours. Such a pity the ISE project seems to have come to a halt.

Thanks for your reply Andy, This one definitely has an electric wire in the outer tube and I can't imagine that the outer area is a vacuum so the presenece of a tear might not be a problem. If the electric wire can "sense" water and causes a solenoid to close then I might be ok. I'll try test my theory out. Appreciate your help. Martin

I simply ran the dishwasher on a very high temperature (90 degrees) without anything in it a few times, and this seems to have solved it for now!