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Thanks again to bob12241 for publishing this solution. Such a cheap and easy fix after being pointed in the right direction. Very grateful.

Hi Guys, I got the same washing machine and exactly the same problem which is not even powering up. Bought diode online and fixed it. Really appreciate every one advises. We are saved and got a lot of washing to do. Thx a lot

Thanks for the help Andy, much appreciated!

Hi remove rear cover consisting of about 6 screws this opens most of the rear. The board is inside a black box on the right hand side near the bottom. You will have to jiggle it about to get it through the rear opening. If I remember it correctly I had to lower it down then thread under pipes and stuff also had to cut a couple of cable ties that held the loom to the chassis. Hope that helps. Regards Rob

Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241

I had the juddering issue giving a 3E error code. To cut a long story short, it was finally fixed by replacing the primary PCB after 5-6 visits from British Gas. (they had practically replaced all components prior to resolving the issue!

That’s interesting. Those that don’t know (!) have all suggested that I check voltage as well. I have a new element on order and when it’s fitted I will post if it all works alright.

Thanks bob12241. Second time ours went since buying it over three years ago. Took BEKO three weeks to source replacement PCB and make the repair. This time it was out of warranty so I feared the worst but your fix had us back up and running the next day.

Found the problem inner drum spider corroded, everything else was very good condition for a 10 year old + washer .now need to find one at a good price or buy a new washer.

Hi, I have a 3 year old washer dryer Beko WDW85140, which suddenly stopped working, no LED light and no display just dead. I contacted the manufacturer Beko for goodwill and asked to send 3 boards. I am an electrician and electrical engineer, but I did not have the time or the desire to deal with the error as to which circuit board was defective. Now Beko accepted my goodwill, but unfortunately today I only got the engine control module. When I was looking for board names on the Internet, I came across your site. Tonight I immediately got the diode from electronics dealer Conrad and soldered it in. Everything works again as if by magic. I wanted to thank @ bob12241 and all contributors :) bye

Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.

Heres a few pics

I kept pressing various buttons just to get the cycle going but it was stuck either on draining the water or just turning and it must have gone on for about two hours before I gave in and turned it off. Selected the fast wash hoping this would cure it but even that went on for over an hour ... I am buying a new washing machine, I think I just about had enough of Hotpoint.

Mine started doing this last month. It washes fine though. I did wonder if the filter needed cleaning maybe, but I can't get the front off. I have however tried the pressing delay button fix, and it has worked! Perhaps these button are getting pressed accidentally when wiping down the machines? Anyway, no beeping at the moment, so thank you very much for the hint.

Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.

Hi, Firstly, may I say I realise this is a rather old thread. But since I have only just discovered a problem with the little black rubber hose that is connected to waste pipe junction toward top of Beko Washing machine where waste pipe exits washer, perhaps this may help others. Background. Periodically we noticed water on tiled floor during/after washing large loads and occasionally loads were not successfully spun. This occurred earlier today, Water all over floor and a soggy load of washing. However, on this occasion as my wife was discovering this there was a loud crack/bang and electrics tripped out. That's when I get involved. I Isolated power to machine then drained drum from filter housing. Wife found bent hair grip amongst debris. I thought that this may have simply obstructed pump impeller so congratulated myself, (albeit prematurely), that this must have caused failed spin/drain function. But before going any further my wife suggested we drag machine out and clean water from below it. Once that clean up was completed and as machine was already out, I decided to inspect inside back of machine. Only 5 screws to remove inspection plate. Glad I did as I then discovered water splashes all over electric including drive motor and junction/control box cleverly (not) situated low down below waste pipe exit point. Now this is where I also discovered the "small black hose" its about 10mm diameter (externally) and I too thought may be some sort of over flow so rather than leave it hanging above electrics was going to feed it to outside of casing. But when I looked closer I found the widening effect at the loose end of hose also. Closer inspection of the back of the plastic outer drum there is a spigot within reach of the rubber hose. It's my belief that this is where the rubber hose should reside. My theory is that in the event of a waste pipe blockage the waste water can recycle around into the drum and not leak onto electrics etc. Owners will know there is a problem as the washing won't be dry and investigate. In my case I think that pump was operating erratically so sudden gushes of waste water leaked from the open end of the rubber hose and has now I think caused the motor or control of the motor to fail requiring service engineer. Oh I do wish I'd purchased extended warranty. Regards Neil

I finally got the heating element replace and the machine is now working fine.

Just re-read the whole of this post Bosch Serie 8 Washing Machines have multiple door types....mine was on the WAW28560GB/01 (same hinge as the GB/07)

I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area as this prized apart quite quickly. Once the fascia is away the 10 screws are revealed, and away you go. The facia snapped back on easily It took me about 20 minutes Good Luck AW

Hi Karoo1965. This is SA_guy but I dont know the account anymore. That post is so old, not in South Africa anymore. I remember I had to change the whole board, it was around 100 USD. Sorry for not following up with the tech's findings at that time. Happy New Year all

Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.

Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid for at least 2 inches back and had to be cut away and rewired. Sometimes they would melt so badly that the live and neutral would fuse together and short out the washing machine. I defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only possible cause of these parts overheating is poor quality. And I also defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only reason we have poor quality parts is because the people who are making them do not have customer safety as their primary concern. If I am wrong in the last point, then the only alternative explanation is pure incompetence or lack of quality control.

Whirlpool has issued a recall notice on some of its models of washing machines due to a potential safety concern. It affects certain models of Hotpoint and Indesit washing machines made between October 2014 and 2018 and it is feared more than 11,000 machines in UK & Ireland may be impacted. A flaw with the door-locking system may lead them to overheat and potentially catch fire. Whirpool launched an urgent recall of certain models of tumble dryers over fire safety fears in July of this year. If you think your washing machine might be affected, you can check by calling 0800 316 1442 or by visiting https://washingmachinerecall.whirlpool.co.uk Here is a full list of the models involved in the Whirlpool recall of fire-risk Hotpoint and Indesit branded washing machines. The models are listed by their commercial code, followed by the brand name. FML 742P UK Hotpoint WMAOD 743G UK Hotpoint WMAOD 743P UK Hotpoint WMAQB 721P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQC 641P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQC 741G UK Hotpoint WMAQC 741P UK Hotpoint WMAQC 741P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQF 621G UK Hotpoint WMAQF 621P UK Hotpoint WMAQF 641 P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQF 721G UK Hotpoint WMAQF 721P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQL 621G UK Hotpoint WMBF 742G UK Hotpoint WMBF 742K UK Hotpoint WMBF 742P UK Hotpoint WMBF 742P UK.M Hotpoint WMBF 763P UK Hotpoint WMEF 722 BC UK Hotpoint WMEF 742 P UK Hotpoint WMEUF 722P UK Hotpoint WMEUF 743G UK Hotpoint WMEUF 743P UK Hotpoint WMFG 741P UK Hotpoint WMFG 741P UK.M Hotpoint WMFUG 742 P UK.M Hotpoint WMFUG 742G UK Hotpoint WMFUG 742P UK Hotpoint WMFUG 842P UK.M Hotpoint WMJLF 842P UK Hotpoint WMJLL 742P UK Hotpoint WMSAQG 621P UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742G UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742K UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742P UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742P UK.M Hotpoint WMXTF 842P UK.M Hotpoint WMYL 7151PS UK Hotpoint XWA 81252X K UK Indesit XWA 81252X W UK Indesit XWD 71452X K UK Indesit

In reply to morosanu22's post. I would check the following 1) Obvious maybe but is the water turned on? 2) the diode you replaced is it the correct polarity? eg:- the silver band MUST be same orientation. 3) As Andy said, are all the plugs in the correct sockets? the wiring loom hints at the positions, eg:- made to measure. 4) do all the lights stay on? if not maybe bad solder joint on diode if all this is ok then put the machine through diagnostic test mode. To do this there are various posts with different methods on the web relevant to different models (and one on this site which seems familiar) https://www.washerhelp.co.uk/forums/topic/2127-beko-wmx86231w-diagnostic-tests/ different model but might work Is there any noise coming from the machine when waiting? if you are getting a low pitched hum then, does the drum turn at all whilst on, and can you turn the drum easily by hand ? I am not a white goods engineer and can only offer an electrical engineers thoughts to the problem, hope this helps. Regards Bob

In retrospect I'm not sure this has been a complete success.... No fear. I've just found out my machine is now on the fire recall list! Everyone take note and check the news today on this subject.

Fix for this problem! Also had the same problem with my beko washing machine with water leaking out of this black hose that connects to the drain pipe housing at the top of the machine. The black hose just needs to be pushed back onto the nipple on the back of the drum.