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  1. Hi John2005, I checked ebay and found the diode first on the listings at £1.80 each. A little dearer but still cheap for the repair. You can search for any Schottky diode rated at 100v 2A in the same package (inline). It is also on Amzon delivered Oct 7th for £1.85 and £3.35 pack of 5 delivered Oct 7th also. Whilst they state the delivery time I have found that they generally tend to be a little quicker than that. If you were to book an engineer then you could have similar waiting time and then they would have to order any component that needs to be replaced, guessing at 4 or 5 weeks overall. If you go for a higher rated diode then the packaging may be slightly bigger and then you could have problems mouinting it plus the leads may not go through the holes. Regards Rob
    2 points
  2. I think it may be time to get rid of it. It's been stopping a lot more in recent weeks and it's just not the hassle. Thank you for your help.
    1 point
  3. Unfortunately it’s not easy to deal with something like this. It probably needs someone to look at it. If a cycle has finished but then drum turns back and forth indefinitely that’s usually crease guard that can be switched off. If cycle finishes and laundry is hot that’s often because it’s rinsing in hot water due to being connected wrong at plumbing - though it can be also caused by overheating and aborting the cycle missing out the rinses. In the latter case an error code would be displayed or if no display certain lights would indicate the error. Check this article to look into the laundry coming out hot fault https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/clothes-come-out-of-washing-machine-hot/
    1 point
  4. Just posting this here in the hope it helps someone else stuck in the same position I was in last night. If you've got a Hoover H Wash 500 washing machine, the front filter door isn't easy to open and you might think it's on some kind of locking mechanism, similar to the main door. Short answer - it isn't. The hinge is on the left hand side of the door and you might have to slide something like a credit card corner into the 3 o'clock position on the door to be able to release the catch.
    1 point
  5. No, not on this forum, someone alerted me to it as I use the same username on other sites as well. The individuals using it are using @bob12241, slight difference but could easily be linked to me. Frustrating as I can't do anything about it and there doesn't appear to be any logical reasoning behind it. My username is made up from a mix of Bob being short for Robert, and my Kelloggs employee ID, from years back. I have used this for over 20 years now. Rob
    1 point
  6. Hi tocques, your D6 might not be blown, you must test D7 out of circuit, as said previously, a number of times, testing whilst connected can give false readings. The diode (D7) that most people are using is "stps2h100". The spec is 2A 100v schottky diode, any other diode with that spec and in the same package should do. If indeed D6 has blown, you might need to lift the diode to get a number off it, then check online to find a supplier. Rob
    1 point
  7. Thanks, Two screws were under stickers as you suggested. There is one tiny hole that might have a latch or something inside but no way to see. Tried twisting / turning / pulling just don't want to force it to breaking point. Nothing on that spares site. I will try Samsung to see if individual components are available. Thanks
    1 point
  8. Hi Andy, bradaw42 posted 12 months ago "When I initially called BEKO, they wanted to send out an Engineer as out of warranty for around £160." I imagine that is just labour, but I also remember someone else quoting the charge but can't remember his name, seem to thing it was his second time and he did the fix himself on the second occasion. Incidentally a seller on ebay "letstalkretro " is selling the fix complete with the "New Uprated" diode for £4.99, cheeky sod.😏
    1 point
  9. Thanks I ran a wash cycle and can confirm all is well! thanks to you
    1 point
  10. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure I saw the whole board on the Beko spare site (at least for my washing machine) and it was something like £79. It there were two options, one showed the board itself inside the casing (but the board/casing looked different to my machine...and all of the pictures in this thread yet its called "Main board PCB" so bit odd. The second option showed the black casing for the PCB which matches mine and all the pictuers here but it didn't show the inside of the case but it must also include the main board as £79 just for plastic case seems a bit extreme? hehe. I guess you then have to add manual labour costs which would probably be equal to the part price to be honest. I mean, I didn't enquire about an engineer coming out but from past experience with these sorta things, the labour usually is pretty high... so probably looking at close to 150-200 for total job completion I would say which is why I am so glad I found this thread. I did have to buy some tools but the tools will last me a life time and so really the cost is about £3-4 for the DIODES and 1-2hours of my time.
    1 point
  11. Okay sooo, fantastic news. I have now taken it all apart and fitted the new schottky diode and we have lift off! All appears to be working! haven't ran a cycle just yet but it does appear to finally be working! Having never soldered or done anything remotely electrical before... I am very thankful for you posting this topic. If I hadn't of seen this , I am almost certain I would of ended up paying £100s for someone to come out and do the job for me. As a first time property owner, I really want to learn new things and become a bit of a handy man/DIYer and this certainly taught and saved me a lot! so thank you again. Just incase it helps anyone in the future, my washing machine was WDX8543130B and had the same faults described throughout this thread/topic. Replacing that D7 Diode fixed it for me. Multi Meter read 0 so it confirmed the D7 was dead. Thanks again guys! If I have any issues when I run the machine later (I need a break..) I'll post back otherwise all is well, thanks again!
    1 point
  12. Great Britain (as it was) used to be renowned for its industrial machine manufacturing, but we fell into the trap of making machines that last, because once you bought one you didn't need another for years (I have a hobby lathe thats 70 years old), the early electric light bulbs were a classic case, where the largest manufacturers held a meeting in secret and decided to shorten the lifespan. When I was working in industry it was typical for a machine lifespan of 3 years to break even was planned for, and if they got 5 years then they were in profit from the purchase price. White goods are regarded as a disposable product, just look at the price to have an engineer replace the circuit board in this topic. Obviously the engineer has to make a living, but I can't help but feel that planned redundancy is built into a lot of consumer goods now. I will look forward to the link. Rob
    1 point
  13. I find it strange that I can download a complete service manual for my combi boiler costing in excess of £1200 for free, yet I cannot get the service manual for my washer dryer, even when I offerred to pay for it. You are right, I don't think the right to repair directive will have a big effect on manufacturers as they will choose to ignore any recomendations, and only supply information if it became a legal requirement. Then the price will go up to cover lost component replacement and service engineers. Did I mention to you, I had the BBC ring me, asking if I would go on tv for their right to repair article they did with Gloria Huniford et al, about 12 months back. I refrained as I am camera shy, and in any event it was only a 3 minute article as it turned out Good luck with your article Rob.
    1 point
  14. Hi John2005, The schottky diode has different characteristics than the ordinary diode, the main one is a faster recovery time (technical, but it is relevant to its operating frequency). I am a great believer in what does more can do less, hence if you use a 1A diode the 2A diode will do the same but won't burn out as easily. This is of course is subject to the other specifications being the same. I understand the need for an immediate repair, as you only miss the washing machine when it breaks down and then it is a catastrophe. It is a shame Tandy closed down a few years back as they did stock components and there would have been every chance of getting something similar. I also seem to remember 1 or 2 happy customers had a couple of spare diodes, maybe if you read them all you might be able to contact them. Incidentally what part of the country do you live, there might be a seller nearby Rob
    1 point
  15. @bob12241 You are an absolute legend! My Beko WDX8543130W panel died last weekend, extended warranty ended in May, obviously 😅 Found this topic, ordered the STPS2H100 2A diode. Nothing was available on Amazon with quick delivery, so I've ordered from eBay £2.10 incl. RM24 Service. Replaced the diode yesterday. However, I made a small mistake, haven't checked the polarity first, so I've done it twice 😆 You should have open a donate site for now and everyone who was able to fix their machine - with your help - should give you a tenner 😉 You deserve it mate. Many thanks again and all the best, Rob Just out of topic, why Beko haven't re-called those particular series to replace the panel...
    1 point
  16. Ok, understood. Thanks so much for your advice & support!
    1 point
  17. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
    1 point

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