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Found 11 results

  1. I was cleaning out my washing machine - the detergent drawer and the filter, I ran some hot water through the the empty detergent drawer slot to help soften the dried powder. The water ran through the machine out of the slightly loosened filter as I had just placed it back but left it loose to flush the water out. Shortly after there was a water proofing error. After tilting the washing machine to ensure the water didn’t wash back into the machine the error went away, but changed to a “Technical ! fault F169”. I can’t find this error code anywhere in a manual, but the guidance for technical faults is to switch off and on again at the mains. Unfortunately, I don’t know where the mains are as I rent and I’m not sure what the issue is or what I’m supposed to do. If anyone could help I’d appreciate it. All parts (filter and drawer) are back in place and I’ve switched the machine off using the normal power button.
  2. I have a BEKO WDX8543130. Over the last 2 weeks the drying function has not been working properly. It washes fine. Then we set it to cupboard dry. It sometimes needs a bit longer so we set it to dry a bit more. After the cycle has finished it comes out soaking wet. It's happened about 5-10 times now. Anyone experienced this before?
  3. I have an Indesit IWDC6105 inherited from the previous owner of my flat. When I set the cycle to go the 3h button lights up and the cycle does not start. It doesn't flash to indicate it's actually on timer delay. And none of the others buttons flash. I've unplugged and left for a few minutes to no avail. Hoping something obvious I'm missing??
  4. Hi I have a Beko WM74165W washing machine. It's about 18 months old so 6 months outside the warranty period. Its has been a great machine these past 18 months, definitely one I would have recommended however at the moment it just turns off after I start a wash cycle. Once started the machine will fill with water to the normal level and will then just completely power off, no lights or power at all. It wont turn back on for a minute or two either, I assume its a safety feature but I'm not sure what the problem is. I managed to get it into test mode. It originally showed E17 with was excessive foaming, this came from the repeated washes we put on before we realised there was a problem where detergent was added each time and must have built up. I ran a few rinse cycles which worked on cold water but again the machine cut out after 4 minutes on this but was enough to rinse the machine out. Now when I go into test mode I get each time after pressing the start button: 1. E-- which I assume means no error code 2. 672 shows on the screen - I don't know the significance of this 3. the display flashes to show its working correctly 4. 004 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the right correctly 5. 005 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the left correctly 6. 006 shows and the drum spins to maximum rpm correctly 7. 007 shows and one of the water valves opens in the drawer correctly 8. 008 shows shows and the other water valves opens in the drawer correctly 9. 009 shows and the drum fills with water. Here I thought the drum would reach a maximum value however it kept filling on the first go until I hit start to stop it. the water level got half way up the window, this may be normal but I wasn't sure? The second time in test mode I only let it fill up to over the bottom of the glass in the door and then pressed the start button to move on. 10. For a split second 010 shows on the screen before it moves onto showing 011 as if it bypasses 010. After 2 seconds of showing 011 the machine cuts power as it has been doing in a normal wash cycle. I'm not 100% sure what should be tested at 010 and if this is the issue? or at 011 and this is the issue? From looking at other posts on other models I think this is the point at which the water should start to heat but I'm not getting that far to see does the door get warm. Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated. Many Thanks
  5. Hi, I have a Beko WM5120W washing machine that is currently at fault, and sadly is out of warranty. There were a few minor issues which have now become greater. Initially, the only issue was that it would make a terrible noise whilst washing or spinning, this turned out to be a coin which I removed from the bottom outlet. The next issue is the one which has now caused the main problem. The start button was not working, and seemed to be broken behind the button itself. I removed the panel, found the fault (the piece of plastic that connects between the button and the PCB was snapped), and glued it back in place. While I was putting the PCB and panel back together, I noticed a few of the connections on the PCB were loose, and needed to be soldered, which I did, and it seemed to look fine. When I put it all back together, I tried to test it by running a 'quick wash'. It was on 'ready', (the led was lit), and I pressed start. After a few seconds I heard a click, which I assume was the door locking, followed by another click. I checked the door to make sure it was still locked, which it was. Usually, after not too long the machine will kick into life and start filling with water. Now, the LEDs are lit showing 'start', 'wash' and 'quick wash'. Nothing happens, and after a few minutes all the LEDs go off, and it goes back to 'ready'. I've also tried setting it to rinse, which has the same effect. Any help will be greatly appreciated as I, like a lot of people on here, cannot really afford to buy another machine right now. Thanks Paul
  6. Hi, My Grans washing machine recently stopped working. It was in mid wash when we heard a bang & the machine stopped. The rubber seal looks to have come off & the machine wouldn't spin. It will spin by hand though. Does anyone know what could have caused this? Or how to have it working again? Thanks in advance.
  7. Hi! I've got a problem with my Hotpoint WDL520 and looking for advice. I recently put in a load of towels (read: heavy, wet) and left it to wash and dry while I went to work. I came back and the machine had flipped a breaker (I think when starting the spin cycle - there was still water in the drum, but not much soap). I manually released the door lock, turned the socket off, reset the breaker, and turned the socket back on. The program came up fine, I switched it to 'pump out', closed the door, and the breaker flipped again immediately (with the door re-locked). I had a problem a couple months ago where the motor was causing a short - I had cleaned it out with some compressed air, which seemed to solve it at the time, so I thought it was the motor again, but I disconnected the motor and got the same short. I reconnected the motor and went through the other connectors, disconnecting and seeing what would reproduce the short and found that if I unplugged the heater coil (pink wire pictured here), the washing machine would run (tested just for a few minutes) without shorting. I disassembled the dryer enclosure (pictured) and found the coil to be quite wet. I tested the resistance of the heater coil (both with the pink wire connected and disconnected) and got 45 ohms. I'm currently letting it dry to see if this changes. So - questions. Is this a normal resistance for the heater coil? Should I replace it? If this is normal, is there some other current-limiting component that may have failed that I should look at? If this ends up being an expensive repair, can I wash with the machine with the wire disconnected without causing more damage? Thanks for any help!
  8. Hi My Hoover Nextra washer dryer has been working fine for 4 years but now after the trip switch went off, it won't fill with water (the trip switch is back on). All filters are clean as per instruction manual. Water supply and hose are fine - no kinks or blocks and the tap is on. Power supply is fine. Spin and drying cycles work fine but not wash or rinse cycles. No water enters machine at all - not the drawer or the drum. I've followed all troubleshooting tips in the manual and online. I even bought a new triple solenoid valve and replaced it but to no avail. On selecting a wash program and pressing start the "door lock light" lights up, the appropriate "time remaining light" lights up - then it just sits there for 3 or 4 minutes doing nothing then the "start" light and the "delay start" button light flash intermittently. There is nothing in the manual for this combination of lights. Also if a delay start was selected it should light up the delay time which it isn't doing. Pressing any button at this time doesn't change anything on the control panel. It's basically frozen. I'm guessing there must be an electrical fault but not at the solenoid valve - somewhere further back down the line - but how do I find out where or what is at fault? Is it worth repairing? Hoover will charge £120 for callout + extra for parts. Machine cost about £400 4 years ago. Apart from the solenoid valve is there anything else that is DIYable? Hope someone can advise... Kind Regards Andy
  9. Hi Guys Can anyone identify the fault that stated to happen on my washer dryer machine its very noise on the spinning cycles. http://youtu.be/cxF0uSrbVww
  10. Hi everyone, I'm wondering if you can help me please. I have a Hotpoint WDL520 Aquarius. As of today, the dryer isn't working properly. Clothes are coming out hot and wet, and steam billows out when you open the door. I've read several other topics, and looked in the FAQ section, but I don't think any of them apply. The drum is turning, and I can hear water running as normal when the dryer starts (the second or so of running water you hear then stops and the dry cycle starts) so I'm thinking that it's not a problem with the solenoid that supplies cold water, would I be correct? Is there any other fault or part that causes this problem? Hopefully something I can fix myself! I have a multimeter, so I can test the solenoid at the same time as other options if this is necessary. I'm just a little unsure of how to test it. Also, do I need to get the cover off to do so, or is it accessible from the outside of the machine? I'm not at home right now, and I've been asked (ordered) to fix it tomorrow, so I can't actually look at the machine, I've just gone through a few things over the phone, that's how I know that some kind of water is still running when a dry cycle is started. Thanks for your help! Andy
  11. WM5100W Washing Machine went through complete cycle as normal and completed ok, removed laundry and refilled drum with another load. Pressed start, wash light illuminated. Nothing started, no sound, no clicks, no water input, no drum cycle. press start/pause and pause light flashes, press again and it goes off. Press Pause light for 3 seconds and spin/end light illuminates but then does nothing. Turned power off, held start/pause turned on, it enters test mode with ready light off, wash light flashing and spin/end light on solid. Cannot perform any other test, ie move selector to another program and press start does nothing. Turn off and on again returns the ready light as if its ready to start. At any point in the above the door is never locked and can be opened. I've emptied the filter/pump not a lot there, two coins. no water in the drum. Im going around in circles. However, an answer of what error code is indicating when in test mode would help (ready light off, wash light flashing and spin/end light on solid). Thanks in advance
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