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andyr12345 last won the day on August 22 2018

andyr12345 had the most liked content!

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About andyr12345

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    Gadgets, Computers, Washing Machines, Electronics, Soaps (of the TV Kind :) )

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  1. Has it a removable soap dispenser drawer (most have) - I had a washing machine once , a second hand one , that had mould and dirt in the soap drawer. I (maybe ott) took the top off the washing machine and the soap dispenser on the left split/came a part (it wasnt glued or sealed) and when I split the dispenser box I could get right inside and clean it and even get to the big black rubber hose between the soap dispenser drawer and the drum - the whole area was black with mould and gunge I gave it, and its spray holes at the the top, and the drawer itself and good spray of dissolved soda crystals in warm water , put it in a sprayer and sprayed all around the soap dispenser box and down right into the rubber hose from the dispenser box to the drum, rinsed it all thouroughly with clean water in another spray bottle, emptied and cleaned out the pump filter at the bottom of the machine, washed the door gasket thoroughly then done a 90c long wash (was over 3 hours wash) with just water alone in the drum (no soap, no vinegar,) and after that the mildew smel had gone on future washes and no black marks on clothes - the washing machine lasted us for years. If you are going to take top of washing machine make sure you know what you are doing , unplug from wall and watch out for sharp metal edges inside the machine and dont touch anything electrical (even with the plug out of the wall capacitors inside the machine can hold electrical charge) - if you dont want to take top off machine and can remove the soap drawer (most come out by pulling it all the way and then press a little catch to pull the drawer right out) spray the soda crystal mixture all around the inside of the soap drawer compartment and at the bottom where the hose is and put the soap drawer itself in the sink to soak and get all the mildew/mould/soap powder scum off and rinse thouroughly and dry. What most people dont realise is that when you put a hot wash on in the drum to try and get rid of mould and the smell , that hot water goes around the drum and the door gasket but does not even reach the soap drawer nor the pipe between the soap drawer and drum and if these are mouldy or have soap scum residue , when you do a wash the water (especially if you have a strong cold mains water pressure) flows into the soap drawer compartment and the soap drawer and 'dislodges' flecks of mould and old soap scum and powder and that goes right into the drum. - hope this info helps and it might be worth a try before totally condemning the machine. - Good Luck!
  2. I have a hotpoint washer with a special 'Bed & Bath' washing cycle and yes indeed it does add more water to the drum when washing and rinsing. I actually have a hot water tap next to my washing machine and even though my washing machine is cold fill only on quick was it doesnt even fill up to the lip to the washing machine door gasket, so uses very little water. so I have fitted a rubber hose (a spare washing machine inlet hose ) to the hot water tap and as the machine starts its filling up with cold water I put the hot water pipe into the soap drawer and turn on the hot tap until the water is between a quarter and halfway up the drum, not only does it fill up the machine drum quicker because both hot and cold water are going in it also takes less time to heat up the water in the drum because hot water is going in along with the cold water. I know a lot of faffing about and have to manually turn off the hot tap when the drum is at the right water level but its worth it. - so instead of the long Bed & Bath programme I can set the machine to do my bedsheets on fastwash at 60c and 1200rpm spin in only an hour and they come out grand nice and clean and not creased . - then although you cannot beat the freshness and smell of bedsheets that have been line dried , I do place them in the tumble drier because they come out softer than on the line and no creases so therefore dont need ironing and can go straight on the bed. - I sometimes toss 2 of those plastic tumble drier balls into the drum of the drier as well as the sheets and pillow cases - only trouble is sometimes the tumble drier balls get caught up in the pillow cases or duvet covers. - in any case I have found they come out fine. - I have found as well that even if your washing machine went up to 1600rpm that people use that for all , if not most, of their laundry - sure the faster the speed of the spin the more water extracted and the quicker the clothes will dry but then they will be creased to hell when they have finished spinning. thats why i choose 1200 or 1,000rpm and sometimes if its just light cotton 800rpm - in fact if you put your machine on 'delicates' or non-crease -it normally will spin at 800rpm max for this reason .
  3. hi - thats strange , it couldnt be a rusty metal button/stud off another garment/item of clothing in the drum could it? - only thing i can think of
  4. When you have your washing machine delivered new , they should take off all the clear plastic film covering the machine, then remove big blocks of white polystyrene and then with a spanner or socket set undo (normally 4) very long silver 'bolts' from the back of the washing machine - what these do is stop the drum from bouncing around when they are moving the washing machine on a sack barrow or hydraulic lift and also to stop the drum from moving when they have it in the back of the delivery van. If they didnt have these transit bolts in to stop the drum from moving around, if the drum did move excessively in transit it could put strain on the wires from the motor and other wires attached to the drum and also could split or pull out the rubber hoses from the soap drawer to the drum, or hoses at the bottom of the machine that leads from the bottom of the drum tub to the drain pump.
  5. hi, It couldnt be the screw holes on the outer drum plastic brackets where the Transit Bolts (to stop the drum from moving during transit/delivery) would have been could it? - thats what it looks like to me from the pictures. EDIT: just thought of something else that could have connected to these holes on the drum brackets - springs , to hold the drum up whilst its supported on its shock absorber struts - again, totally normal to see them without the springs attached to them because there are normally more brackets the springs could be attached to (normally middle drum brackets)
  6. hello there - can you open up the porthole door of the washing machine? - if you can , you can try turning off the machine and try filling up the drum manually with clean water with a pyrex jug (a few jugfuls) and then set the cycle to either 'pump out' or 'spin' and (providing when you turn it on the pause light goes out or starts the cycle once you push the button with some water in the drum) let it go through the cycle and see if the machine resets itself - worth a try as sometimes this little trick 'resets' the water level pressure switch and the electronics. oh and you could also make sure the porthole door is closed right up as well because on some washing machines if the door isnt closed up fully (or there is a problem with the door locking mechanism) then the pause button could flash like this too
  7. Dorothy - you could try not overloading the drum (if you are overloading drum) - selecting a 'delicates wash' rather than a cottons wash, a lower spin speed (800/1000rpm spin speed) - are the only things I can think of at the moment if you are really sure there are no sharp edges in the drum at all
  8. Hi William, yes, sounds annoying - definately sounds like condensation (thats silly if they said if it was an installation problem, how on earth would condensation dripping from the soap drawer be anything to do with installation) - most soap drawers on most machines will have soap drawers designed to let steam escape from the drum ... and soap suds. - If you put wrong washing powder or liquid in the drum and it over suds, you just watch the suds come out of the soap dispenser area and the hole where your hand goes into where you open the dispenser drawer with your fingers. How warm is the room with the washing machine in? - is it in a cold room, or a cold utility room or garage or cold kitchen? that could be causing more condensation than necessary coming out of the drawer than normal as the steam comes up through the soap drawer and hit the cold air in the room maybe. In the normal lifetime of the washing machine you are going to be washing at much lower temperatures than 90c ... your going to be doing washes of 30c/40c and at most 60c .. do you have the same issue when the washing machine is doing those wash temperatures? - only you shouldnt be having a load of condensation and wet steam coming out of the dispenser drawer at those temp's really (assuming the room it is in is around room temperature of 19-21c and not cold) otherwise yes the steam could settle on the wood of the worktop , make it wet and it will rot after a while. If you find a lot of condensation when this new machine is on, you know the room you have it in does it have a window, or a wall fan nearby the machine? - maybe you could open up the window or install a wall extractor fan and turn that on to cut down the condensation in the room where the washing machine is operating?
  9. ah yes, I see its Hot & Cold fill washer, not too many of them around these days a lot of washing machines have gone to Cold Fill Only - may be good time to get one of these adaptors and convert it to cold fill all the time:
  10. I found out the best was proper Loctite superglue - there are cheaper versions of superglue in the pound shops and they were rubbish think they must water them down or something very runny and not as strong as Loctite. Thats good idea, never thought of a bicycle puncture repair kit to do it.
  11. yes i have done that before as well on washing machines where the door rubber gasket has had a couple of minor splits and fixed it with superglue and its lasted for ages
  12. i find no problem with our hotpoint 1hr 60c wash and 45min 40c wash to be honest if the clothes arent heavily soiled . even if they have some stains a quick rub with something like vanish before putting in the machine and the quick wash is grand. our machine have long fancy programs for towels ... but i put towels on 60c 1hr and they are fine. really the only times we use the other programmes than quick wash is for some delicates and wool and some handwash stuff. every other thing gets a quick wash
  13. just a thought , have you removed the rubber washing machine water inlet hose and tried to clean out the inlet filter (a small round plastic mesh filter) maybe there is dirt/rust/limescale on the filters and its siphoning somehow back up to the drinking water tap? - i have known some machine manufacturers use metal filers and they have rusted - if you come across one of them see if you can change it to a plastic filter
  14. hello there - yes i feel your pain. There doesnt even seem to be any 'quick wash 1hr' feature on this machine from what I can see. Have found the manual for your machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/76791/Indesit-Iwdc-6125.html?page=8 I wonder if you could try this set programme 2 (60c) or Programme 3 (40c wash) then if you are around the machine at around 30 minutes try to cancel the wash (maybe a long press on the 'start/pause button' or long press on the 'on/off' button - then turn the dial to 'rinse' then let it carry on with the wash - if all goes well that should get you around 1hr duration for wash/rinse/spin - but bear in mind it will have to be lightly soiled clothes only, not really dirty or stained, and only half fill the drum to 3.5kg of clothes rather than full drum of 6kg. - and because you reduce the 60c to just 30minutes you might find the heater will not reach 60c temperature in the 30 minutes but its worth a try ..... come to think of it, it might actually because your only filling half the drum so that means it will take in less water and less water in the drum means quicker to heat the water - so you might be OK. on our Hotpoint washing machine on a 1hr quick wash 60c it washes for around 30mins and around the 28mins mark it empties then goes into rinse and then spin and its all done in just around an hour and the items come out clean. Its the only way I can think of a 'get by solution' if it works. if you stop the cycle at 30mins and turn off the machine and then change the dial to the rinse cycle and then turn the machine back on I am predicting (might be wrong but you could try it) that it will empty the drum then go onto the rinse cycle and then dry and then this will take another 36mins this rinse cycle will. When you 'stop/cancel' the machine - dont just pull out the plug from the wall socket and put it back in because the machine might think there has been a power cut and just carry on doing a full wash cycle at a long time - so to actually cancel the was (well on later indesit and hotpoint machines) you had to long press of the start/pause button or long press on the 'on/off' button to actually 'cancel' the wash. Hope this works for you as a work around even if it isnt ideal.
  15. hello there - from what you are describing it sounds like an emergency drain hose so that if for some reason the main drain hose is blocked or the drain pump stops working you can place a tray (or bowl if there is enough room) take the bung out and manually drain out the drum to take your clothes out of the drum . - also there for should you are cleaning out the pump and want to drain out the last bit of remaining water in the pump before you remove the pump filter to clean it.
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