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  3. Marcdxn

    Candy CDB 754DN

    Hi Guys i want to update this thread for any future users. I took the controller board out located at the back bottom left hand side held in place with one bolt head screw. disconnecting is fairly straight forward but the cables can be quite stiff to remove. the old board has scorch marks on the bottom of the pcb - take the board out of its plastic housing to see the chip side where the washer memory and resistors are located I found a resistor had blown. replacement board was ordered from a candy / Hart parts stockist in Italy I couldn’t find them anywhere else. board was shipped and well packed with DHL and took 5 days. Installed the board double checked anything else which could have possibly blown and couldn’t see any issues elsewhere the board has solved the issue above that I originally posted after install I didn’t receive any error codes so I was hopeful that meant nothing else had blown. im 4 washes in now without any issues unit turns on and off fine. price of the controller board for this unit after currency conversion was £66.90 cheers - Marc
  4. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Beko WMB81241LB Drum not turning

    That's good to hear. Thanks for the update, it's very helpful.
  5. It just kept pumping out in small bursts. All fixed at the moment with new DC Module. Thanks
  6. Hi i have a hoover washing machine only a year and a bit old. It has recently started showing the e03 error. If i open the valve only water comes out no gunk can be found inside. If i open the door and scoop out as much water as possible, then the drain cycle completes. If there is a decent amount of water it won't. Please help
  7. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Beko WMB81241LB Drum not turning

    When you say that it fills up with water, then pumps a little bit out over and over again, does it keep topping up with water? Or does it just keep pumping the water out in small bursts until all of the water has gone out?
  8. Earlier
  9. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    hoover ecologic 1250 overflow

    It depends if it's overfilling, or if the water is being thrown out of the back because the drum is banging about like crazy. Does it fill up for a long time, much longer than normal and the level of the water just rises and rises until it pours out of the back. Or does the washing machine jump into a crazy spin during the wash cycle and throw the water out? They are both very different types of fault.
  10. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Zanussi Aquacycle 1000 F1045W

    I would experiment by putting the cap back in place and then trying to just loosen it and pull the 2nd part out.. It looks as if the main cap isn't intended to be totally unscrewed because there is nothing on the 2nd part (that is wedged into the pump) to be able to lift it out. Ideally try to find instructions in the instruction book. If you don't have the instruction book you might be to download one here appliance instruction books and user manuals
  11. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Candy CDB 754DN

    Hello there. It's not usually a good sign when all of the lights do that. It's not something that is supposed to happen. Modern washing machines are supposed to indicate specific error codes by displaying the actual code on models that have a display capable of displaying letters and numbers. On models that don't have a display they should indicate by flashing specific option buttons. Unfortunately I don't have Candy error codes at the moment. It might be possible that the 3 lit option lights are indicating a code.
  12. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Miele W2444 - Removing the drain filter

    Sorry I did not get a notification about this reply. If a new fault has been introduced after disturbing the washing machine the chances are that the checking that light means that no water is getting into the washing machine. This is probably due to a kinked hose, or something overlooked like the tap was turned off but not turn back on. However, if the tap was turned off and back on them with some taps it could be that it didn't come back on. If you still need to you can troubleshoot the checking that light with my article here -Not filling with water
  13. Many thanks for the update and the photos.
  14. I blew down the pressure pipe to clear any possible blockages I removed and checked the motor resistances across the brushes, taco, and windings all ok. There were two blue wires either end of the motor connector not sure what they are for. I tried changing the pressure switch. No burns on the DC module.
  15. Hi Andy, thanks for the fast reply. The black dusted away and there's no sign of any burning.
  16. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Thinking of buying a 2018 LG washer.

    Hello Craig. Sorry I missed this. I think it's very important to only buy appliances that have good after sales service. So I would avoid any brand that is known to be difficult to repair. I would not expect an LG washing machine to be significantly more reliable than most others. If you want significantly more reliable you would need to be looking at a brand like Miele. Although ironically, you might find similar issues regarding after sales if they are not based where you are. You certainly could not expect that an LG washing machine would not need any repairs for 7 or 8 years, although with any washing machine that's always a possibility if you are lucky and especially if it isn't heavily used.
  17. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Beko WMB81241LB Drum not turning

    Hello there. It sounds like it is overfilling. That's usually a fault on the pressure system. If the washing machine detects that it is overfilling these days it will commonly abort the wash cycle and start to pump the water away. However I would normally expect it to pump it in one continuous goal rather than a bit at a time. Obviously a strange fault on the PCB could cause bizarre behaviour but faults are rarely visible on PCBs. Is the black surrounding the components actual burning? Or is it just like dust/soot? Can it be brushed away with a clean paintbrush? Several components inside PCBs get very hot and attract a lot of black dust which many people think is a sign of burning.
  18. Hi.. my first post My Beko washing machine has developed a fault, when I put it on a cotton wash it fills with water to nearly half a drum then does nothing for a minute or so then it will pump out a small amount of water then it will do the same again over and over. When I put it on a rinse spin and drain cycle it does the same. When I end the programme the machine pumps out all the water no problem. I changed the carbon brushes on the motor but still no luck so I pulled the pcb out to check for any burnt out components, there were a number of areas showing signs of being burnt but cannot tell which part actually burnt out if at all. Please see the attached photo. Many thanks Wayne
  19. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Bosch WFL1662 - knocking noise

    Hello Stuart. The shock absorbers should be quite straightforward to replace. The washing machine will be laid down on its front to do it. I would disconnect the washing machine from the mains and the plumbing, take off the back panel and lid, and then carefully lay it down. Just have a good look at how they are fixed on. They should just be bolted at the base. Make sure the noise isn't coming from a cracked chassis where they fix. Or a loose welded spot on the chassis. The critical thing is to observe how they are fixed to the tub. See if you can get in there with a spanner. You can buy washing machine spares from 4Washerhelp with next day delivery option. Regarding the door seal. It could just be that it is worn and gone floppy at the back and is now catching on the drum. It might be possible to gently and carefully trim a little part of the seal that is catching with a sharp blade. If it's really bad it might need replacing. Make sure the drum isn't badly out of shape or loose on the shaft.
  20. Well, as near as I can make out, it's the shock absorbers. The ballast weights are not moving, the sound isn't coming from within the tub, or from the belt wheel. I can't see anything else moving. Rattling the shock absorbers by hand from below (as opposed to rocking the tub from above) produces a similar sound. What's the hardest part of replacing them? Also, the squeak does indeed appear to be the drum on the door seal. Can (or should it) this be lubricated? Thanks, Stuart
  21. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Bosch WFL1662 - knocking noise

    Hello Stuart. In order to find out where the noise is coming from you need to completely pull the washing machine out and remove the back panel. It should be very obvious once you have full access to the entire machine. At the moment all you can tell is that something either at the back or at the bottom of the machine out of sight is causing the noise. Ideally you should disconnect the washing machine from the mains. Then you can freely shake and pull without fear of electrocution. Be careful as some of the parts can be very sharp inside. So either wear something like garden gloves, or just handle everything very carefully. You should be able to tell if something is loose. It could be anything, like the motor not fixed properly to the drum, a bolt coming loose, one of the tub weights being loose. There could be a problem around the suspension or the chassis. The washing machine does sound generally quite noisy on top of the specific noise. That could be the motor that's getting noisy. Regarding the squeaking noise, that could be the lip of the drum catching on the back of the door seal. Check all around the door seal at the back where it is close to the drum and see if you can identify any point where the drum lip is catching the seal. If it isn't caused by the drum lip catching on the door seal then the most likely alternative explanation is that the drum bearing seal is making that noise. There's nothing much you can do about that apart from a complete strip down and replace all the seals and bearings. It may not even be possible to replace seals and bearings independently. Many washing machines now come only as a complete outer drum with the bearings and seals already fitted. If they are available though it is still a very big job and potentially risky in an old washing machine.
  22. Hi folks. I have a nice clean secondhand Bosch WFL1662 front-loading washing machine. During spin, and occasionally during wash rotation, there is a knocking noise inside. I have removed the top of the machine and rocked the tub front-to-back on its springs, first on the right and then on the left side. There is knock/clack always on the right side, rarely on the left. It does not vary depending on rotation of the inner drum. Also, when rotating the drum slowly, there is a squeak. Otherwise, it's all working fine. I have uploaded three videos describing this to the WeTransfer sharing site, links below. I would appreciate suggestions on probable causes and recommended repairs. It will most likley be done by myself, as my budget is currently being spent on new, non-leaking gas pipes :D Thanks, Stuart Test Rock Drum: https://we.tl/t-0n1MCLakDo Spin Rattle: https://we.tl/t-ImYcSK5K1a Squeak: https://we.tl/t-iP4h7eotwo
  23. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    Hotpoint Aqualtis AQ113D697

    Yes heating element is one of the possible causes for being stuck on 1 minute. Getting stuck on 1 minute is a failure of the software design in that there is a fault, but the software isn’t detecting it. However, don’t just buy and replace the element. You have to establish whether it’s faulty or not by testing it with a test meter. Being stuck on 1 minute is an anomaly that shouldn’t happen and can have various causes.
  24. cheers andy, this looks very helpful, i'll see what i can do.
  25. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)

    AEG L 75480 WD error code E10

    Hello Rob. A washer dryer should still fill with water on the drying cycle. There is usually a separate valve, which is attached to a plastic condenser chamber at the back of the dryer. The water flow from this valve is restricted so that it only trickles in water. The steam generated by drying the laundry is blown into this condenser chamber where it hits the small jet of cold water. This then converts the steam back into water and it is pumped out. So I would have a look to see if any water is trickling into the back of the condenser when it is on a tumble dryer cycle. As it completes the normal wash and rinse cycle okay it's unlikely there is a problem with the water supply. There could be an electrical problem, or the solenoid in question could be faulty. Another area to consider is that sometimes the water that goes into this condenser chamber is prevented from running into the drum by a blockage of lint or limescale at the bottom of the plastic condenser chamber. I have an article that describes how everything works here Laundry comes out of washer dryer hot & steamy it may or may not be relevant. The faults I describe would normally cause the hot and steamy symptom. But if an error code steps in and aborts the cycle first it could account for it not displaying those symptoms.
  26. hi i'm having problems with my washer dryer, the code E10 keeps appearing when i'm trying to dry clothes, however the manual says that this code refers to 'the appliance does not fill with water'. the unit however will fill with water during a normal wash cycle, and complete the cycle with no problems. the error only happens when drying . i have recently cleaned the outlet hose and the filter as we were getting another error code, E20, 'the appliance does not drain the water'. the hose was very clogged, this was the first time we've cleaned it since it was installed in 2013. i also ran a wash cycle with a deep cleaner at 95 degrees. any idea what may be the problem here and how to fix it? thanks rob
  27. I have a hotpoint Aqualtis AQ113D607(E) washing machine, purchased in 2012. The manufacture date is August 2011. Fault: It stops 30% of the time with 1 minute remaining on the wash timer. If left unattended it can sit on 1 minute forever, (longest we left it was overnight), continuing to turn the clothes over. Workaround: The workaround is to pause the wash, turn the dial to rinse, and resume the wash. The rinse takes 45 minutes but completes every time. The machine stopped working completely a few months ago, which was due to a split in the ribbon cable from the door controls. While waiting for a replacement door to arrive, I purchased a second hand machine, manufacture date October 2011. The second machine also exhibited the 1 minute issue on 30-40% of its washes. After replacing the door, wish a used complete door, the first machine worked, but continues to have the 1 minute fault. There is no fault code displayed. Hotpoint claims to have no known issues with these machines. I have found a few people on forums with the fault, but no solutions. It was suggested a heating element; Hotpoint service (Facebook) suggests this is unlikely to cause this issue. Would it actually get as far as 1 minute remaining if the heating element was at fault? Or would it report an error? Can anyone help?
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