All Activity

I think it may be time to get rid of it. It's been stopping a lot more in recent weeks and it's just not the hassle. Thank you for your help.

Hi. Sorry I forgot to mention that brushless motors don’t have tachometer coils. However, the error code says tacho coil error, which goes to show how unhelpful the codes often are. If a brushless motor is running laboured and struggling with no power then unless you can find a poor connection to it on the motor plug or motor wiring there’s nothing you can do. It could need a new motor or new PCB but they are way to expensive to gamble trying one.

Sorry it should have been brushless motor. I've attached a short video of it struggling again it did it for around a half minute towards the end of the rinse cycle then did nothing for a few minutes before finishing the cycle with no error code. Sorry for so many questions.

The motor I have is a DC93-00316A brushes one (pictured) and it has no tacho sensor that I can see. Where abouts will it be located? Thank you.

Hi. Are you putting the detergent in the right place? One side is for prewash which will get taken straight away and other side is for main wash.

It’s possible for the fault to be on the PCB or the wires leading from tachometer coil to PCB but I would definitely not buy a PCB speculatively. Everything about the tachometer coil is in the link I put in my first reply.

Thank you. Where abouts is the tacho coil as I'm not sure what I'm looking for. The connections seem to be fine leading to the PCB. Could it be the PCB at fault?

Hello. I've recently bought a miele wsf363wcs 8 kg washing machine and it was installed and tested by a technician so no fail in installation. But from the very first wash it started doing this: When I choose a program WITHOUT prewash, it spins and drains all water and detergent after few minutes and starts adding water so it washes without detergent and again. And again. At least 3 times. I've to add detergent couple of times! Then after 8-10 minutes after starting the machine, it starts washing. Why does it drain water several times during ready washing even though I do not choose prewash? Has anyone experienced the same? Or should i call a technician? I have never experienced similar before with old washing machines...

A poor connection to the tacho coil or broken copper wire inside one of the wires. However the latter can only really happen to a wire that’s been under some stress by being strongly bent or pulled. Usually this fault means that the wash cycle software believes it has sent power to the motor and can’t detect any fault in the motor yet it is not receiving any signals from the tacho coil.

Thank you for answering my question. Can a faulty tacho coil be temperamental and work part of the time as I assumed that a broken sensor would prevent it from turning completely?

Samsung washing machine manual says error 3E = "Motor Tacho Error, incorrect tacho signal will produce this error". Essentially this usually means that the motor is not turning because the tacho coil measures the revolutions of the motor. Obviously the causes can be many. For a better understanding of the tacho coil read this article, which although is not for a Samsung washing machine all tacho coils work exactly the same - tacho coil error

I'm having problems with the above code. It seems to stop mid-cycle on any program but can't isolate the problem. I've checked all connections and nothing is obvious. Just before it stops the drum will turn a little bit each way and makes a noise which I imagine brings up the code due to too much current being drawn. I've noticed a slight noise coming from the motor so I'm unsure if there's a problem there. The bearings seem fine as it spins freely with no noise. I've attached a short video of the noise of the motor. Thank you.

This evening my daughter was using the washing machine for a few items and we had noticed the rubber bits for a while despite nothing obvious causing any rubbing or overloading and tonight was the last straw, so to speak. I could very loud banging near the end of the cycle and stopped it immediately. When opened you could see the rubber around the drum was gone entirely at the bottom and the drum was far too mobile. There is no way it can be used any more despite being under a 10 year warranty and from what I have read on here probably not worth even bothering to contact Samsung about the problem if all they are going to do is charge me to have it repaired despite the cover. It was a costly machine for me so I am very disappointed.

Well done. It works. Thank you for your help.

Sorry I missed this. Is it fixed? If there's not much water left in machine and it does this it can be a blocked pressure system. If it has a lot of water inside when the error occurs it could be failing to pump water fast enough. That can be caused by various things but if it's intermittent it can be very hard to fix. washing machine not draining water washing machine sticks stops mid-cycle

Sorry I missed this. Did you fix it? I have general advice on this on my main site washing machine dead - wont start

The door seals will allow a lot of movement. It’s also too strong to damage by stretching. Should only need to disengage it if you needed to move outer drum quite a long way. Should just peel off the door frame though. No need to actually remove it.

Thanks, my main worry concerns the door seal flexibility - I wonder whether there is a danger it might split or stretch if I move the drum too much...

I would try laying it down on its side so you can slide the drum without having to lift it.

Ah..! Thanks for the reply. If I do work out a solution I'll post back here...

Sorry, those springs are so strong I’ve never heard of anyone replacing them.

I have bought and replaced the shock absorbers and also bought the 4 drum springs from Miele to change as well while I'm at it as the machine is 12+ years old and in good condition other than the shocks failing a while ago. I have opened up front side of washer and am intending to remove soap dispenser and attendant hoses for access to left side springs. Is there a special tool/knack for removing/replacing the springs. Do I have to lift the drum with ratchet strap to replace springs in which case can the door seal be left in place...

Unfortunately it’s not easy to deal with something like this. It probably needs someone to look at it. If a cycle has finished but then drum turns back and forth indefinitely that’s usually crease guard that can be switched off. If cycle finishes and laundry is hot that’s often because it’s rinsing in hot water due to being connected wrong at plumbing - though it can be also caused by overheating and aborting the cycle missing out the rinses. In the latter case an error code would be displayed or if no display certain lights would indicate the error. Check this article to look into the laundry coming out hot fault https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/clothes-come-out-of-washing-machine-hot/

Just posting this here in the hope it helps someone else stuck in the same position I was in last night. If you've got a Hoover H Wash 500 washing machine, the front filter door isn't easy to open and you might think it's on some kind of locking mechanism, similar to the main door. Short answer - it isn't. The hinge is on the left hand side of the door and you might have to slide something like a credit card corner into the 3 o'clock position on the door to be able to release the catch.

Thank you for your answer. I unsoldered the diode d7, she's clearly toasted. For d6, I'll see if changing d7 doesn't work. Tocques