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  1. Yesterday
  2. Nick2
    Hi Andy, Many thanks for your response. I had wondered that myself. I've tried partially unscrewing and then pulling with pliers (and a fair amount of force) but no luck. But then looking more closely at where the "outer" cap would interface with the "inner" one, I just can't see how it would properly screw in so as to be able to pull the whole thing out. So I guess there is no special tool that I am missing? Any further thoughts much appreciated. Thanks, Nick
  3. tired-boy tired-boy joined the community
  4. tired-boy
    All of a sudden the machine has stopped working, there's been no bang, no smoke, no issues up until now. We loaded up the washer closed the door and selected a washing cycle but the flashing light showing that the door is open continues to flash whereas it would normally stop flashing after a few seconds, stay solidly on and start the cycle. The counter begins to count down as if the cycle has begun but the door lock symbol continues to flash and the door remains unlocked. We have tried every washing cycle option as well as the dryer cycles and we have the same problem regardless. I've unplugged everything and taken the top off the washer and I can't see any noticeable loose wires or 'burnt/blackened' areas. looking forward to your suggestions.....
  5. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) started following John Lewis drain filter inaccessible
  6. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    It might be one where you don't totally unscrew the first bit but just release it then pull the whole thing out as one piece.
  7. pigglesworth pigglesworth joined the community
  8. pigglesworth
    I've gone through the guide but I didn't find anything that really matched the issue that I'm having. I've got a Waltham WTLS75WAV14 washer dryer. Whenever I use it it stops mid cycle. It will fill with water, get soapy, and slosh things around. However at some point it will go from saying that there is still X minutes left to just saying that it's finished. No error codes etc. It doesn't get as far as spin, and I think doesn't rinse either. If I put it directly on spin then it will spin no problem, the same for rinse, or dry. So each function works correctly, but it won't move through the full sequence. However there is one function, "easy maintenance" (it's written in French), that works perfectly. The machine goes through the whole cycle and washes the clothes exactly how it should. All the guidance etc that I've seen gives suggestions for what to do if the problem is consistent across all cycles due to a bad sensor, switch etc, but not what to do if one works normally. Does anyone have an idea for what might be causing this? A replacement control board is pretty expensive so I don't want to start replacing things like that unless it's god a good chance of fixing the machine. I can't find the user manual online, and there doesn't seem to be any way of contacting the manufacturer. Waltham is apparently owned by Vestel, but even they only have a postage address and no mention of Waltham on their website. Thanks for reading, and for any advice.
  9. elfridaauston87
    I am also facing this issue sometime, I found here Andy Reply very helpful.
  10. elfridaauston87
    Found or still looking?
  11. elfridaauston87 elfridaauston87 joined the community
  12. Last week
  13. Ethan started following Mr
  14. Ethan
    My Hoover dyn8164 D2x washing machine shows E03, I tried to open the drain filter but I only can open outside part the black inside part can't be removed. I wonder why they design like this .
  15. Ethan Ethan joined the community
  16. Nick2 Nick2 joined the community
  17. Nick2
    Hi, I'm wondering if anyone can help with a John Lewis washing machine JLBIWM1403 that is not draining. I have looked at common faults/troubleshooting etc and am unable to proceed with checking the drain filter. Upon removing the cap I find what appears to be some sort of inner cap - image posted here. I can't find anything similar online and have tried unsuccessfully to prise it out. Is this normal? Do I need a special tool? It's clearly not what is described in the manual: Any help or advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Nick
  18. Jim C
    Thanks for your suggestion Andy.
  19. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    If you search on 4Washerhelp it should tell you which model each part fits.
  20. KBR
    Thanks Andy
  21. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) started following Door Seal
  22. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    No it looks wrong. Those are for hoses to attach to (probably to pump water into the drum during washing from a recirculating pump) so if yours doesn’t have them it’s the wrong door seal.
  23. KBR started following Door Seal
  24. KBR
    I've ordered a door seal for my beko washing machine and the part is basically the some as the old one except it has two small tubes on the top of the seal which create two openings through the seal. This is not the drainage holes at the bottom. Do I have the right part or a part I can use?
  25. KBR KBR joined the community
  26. jOHN46 jOHN46 joined the community
  27. Hisham Hisham joined the community
  28. Margaret Margaret joined the community
  29. Margaret
    Hello I have a Miele washing machine Softronic W460 that is about 16 years old. Last year I had a repair done & the chap who did it recorded I think about 8600 hours of use & mentioned the 'water path' which I think he replaced. Now I am having problems again that it isn't always taking the softener from the drawer. This seems to be on a completely random basis. We did explore the inside of the machine and cleaned all the tubes/pipes which were silted up YUK! and put it back together but it hasn't solved the problem. My question, do I get it repaired again at a cost of possibly £80 & hope it lasts another year or should I buy a new washing machine - which won't be a Miele! Unless of course someone has an idea why this is happening and can suggest a remedy. Your thoughts & observation would be gratefully received Thank you
  30. Hisham
    I had the same issue and took the built in washing machine out of its cabinet tilted it only to find a metal protective plate underneath. So this wasn’t going to get me to the pump quickly. I then removed the front plastic cover and used adjustable pliers to remove the pipe and found amazing amount of debris. Cleaned it all out replaced everything (sliced my hand in the process!) and it all worked like a dream afterwards... thank you amazing forum!
  31. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) started following Engineer recommendation and AEG/John Lewis lifter paddle removal
  32. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Some drum paddles can't be replaced, but this one looks as if it can because it's available here on my 4Washerhelp spares site - JLWM1605 Drum Paddle and it says it's, "easy to fit". It says Electrolux because that's who make this model for John Lewis. A drum paddle should either slide back and off or may have something that needs pressing down to release it first. This would be done with a small screwdriver pressed down one of the holes. Don't know which hole though. If you order the part, you ought to be able to work out how it fits from looking at it.
  33. Jim C
    Hi does anyone know how to remove the lifter paddle on John Lewis model no:JLWM1605?
  34. Jim C Jim C joined the community
  35. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hello Anya. It's possible the pcb could cause no heating and need replacing. But usually it's caused by the heating element being faulty, or caked in limescale. It can be other things too like broken or loose connections. If they were going to fit a new element and a new pcb that should normally be unnecessary but as you described the washing machine cutting out and the display panel going out I have assumed they were going to replace the pcb because of that, which you may have discovered was caused by a faulty wall socket instead. So the possibility is that it only needs a new heating element. You might need to ask them exactly why they were going to fit a pcb. If they say because of the washer cutting out and display turning off then if it's stopped doing than now in a new wall socket it seems likely that it doesn't need replacing after all. If they say it's for something else that's different.
  36. Earlier
  37. Scootergirl
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  38. Anya
    I'm scared they will send the new pcb unit with the same repair man who came, fitted the heating element, and the first wash after it was fitted, it blew. So I postponed fitting the new pcb for about a week and I'm doing as many washes as I can, just to see what it does! I've done washes on lots of different cycles and it seems to be fine, but will only work on cold washes. In an earlier post you mentioned to me, that if the heating element is open circuit, it will need replacing. Did you mean the pcb or the heating element?
  39. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Like I said. You need to see it go through several washes before being confident that it is the socket and not PCB at fault. You’ve described how the fault was a bit intermittent so it’s always possible it’s just coincidence if it’s just washed through a full cycle once or even twice.
  40. Anya
    Do you think I should still go ahead with them fitting the new power module thing? At the moment its working fine on COLD washes, doing everything and getting to END! (Here I go sounding like a proud parent when my 7 year old walks herself to school!)
  41. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Try carefully going through all the points and advice in the following articles in case anything helps, and to eliminate the various possibilities listed Washing not getting clean in washing machine Grease marks on clothes after washing
  42. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    If the element is open circuit it definitely needs replacing but I would do as many washes as you can in the new socket to be sure that the cutting out and display issue is caused by the old socket and not an intermittent fault on the washing machine. Even if you don't have washing to do just test it at least several more times in case it's just coincidence that it worked in the new socket.
  43. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hello there. Any good appliance engineer should be able to repair an ISE washing machine although I'm not sure if all spares are available since they ceased trading. If you ask at UKWhitegoods they will find you one as they were behind the ISE brand.
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