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  1. Yesterday
  2. Peja Peja joined the community
  3. Peja
    Please can you help me? I have a Hotpoint washing machine, model: WML520 'Aquarius'. When I turn it on I get flashing lights. Specifically, the 'SuperWash', 'ExtraRinse', MiniLoad', 'ReducedCreases' & 'StartlPause' lights flash, and the 'Spin' and 'PumpOut' indicators are continuously lit. I am sure this must be a service-code for something. Do you know what it is?
  4. Big Annie g Big Annie g joined the community
  5. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) started following Washing machine filter unscrews only in the front part and doesn't allow access
  6. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    It must be that the emergency draining tube is only fitted on more expensive models but all models use the same casing. Full instructions on how to remove and clean the pump filter are in the instruction manual. But normally it is unscrewed and pulled out. With some of them though if you unscrew too much it comes apart. The second left inside should just pull out. Try using some pliers or try seeing if the two parts can be hooked back together so you can pull it out with the main cap.
  7. Louisa Louisa joined the community
  8. Louisa
    Hi my Indesit washing machine won’t work on the separate extra spin cycle. The minutes show but the machine just slowly moves but doesn’t go into full spin mode. I’ve cleaned the filter
  9. Last week
  10. kdruzycki started following Washing machine filter unscrews only in the front part and doesn't allow access
  11. kdruzycki kdruzycki joined the community
  12. kdruzycki
    Hi, I wanted to clean the pump filter, however when I unscrewed the lock, it did not open the hole and there was some other part still in the way. Please look at the image cause it's hard to explain: How do I remove this white part inside? And moreover why is there no pipe for draining the water on the left of it even though there is clearly a place for it? My washing machine is Bosch Maxx 5. Thanks
  13. Hintontel
    With cover left off back I checked for voltage on heating element there is a constant 240 v supply and goes through element to begin with (240v when testing on elements two connections) then 0 volt, although 240 V supply still there when testing to earth. Basically seems like heating works to begin with then stops. Confirmed this when putting wash on 60 degrees glass front can be felt getting warm but then after a while glass feels cold.
  14. Hintontel Hintontel joined the community
  15. Hintontel
    Hi there I have a whirlpool wwdc 9440 that’s about 4 years old and keeps displaying error message f:08 after every wash. I understand this can be linked to heating element so tested old element and confirmed open circuit. Ordered new element like for like. Tested new element around 30 ohms- All good, fitted but still same fault occurring. Decided to check temp probe. Measured around 9k ohms and goes up and down when put in hot or cold water so believe this is working. Only thing left I can think of is control unit. But what is strange is I definitely failed the old heating element so unless two things have gone wrong? What do you think? Thank you for your time.
  16. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) started following drive belt in my Hotpoint “WMBF-944 washing machine disintegrated, Logik L814wm16, Hotpoint Aquarius loud spin and and 2 others
  17. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hello Jack. If the pump is running and it is draining the water than the error must mean the signal that water has successfully pumped away is not being detected. I've lost count of how many people have replaced the pressure switch with no effect. It's far more likely to be a blocked pressure system caused by gunge and limescale. Full details are in my article here Faults on pressure system
  18. jayj
    >>Ha ha that's a bit unfair I couldn't have been more balanced<< :o) - sorry, for a minute there I could imagine the kind of excuses my Miele 'engineer' might come out with - am sure that if Miele took you on as a 'change management consultant' you could whip them into shape in 3 months, Andy! (Interestingly, I looked at the GlassDoor employee comment site, and it sounds like the company might be in a bit of an upheaval at the moment strategy-wise, lots of outsourcing mentioned at the German end.) >>Have you seen that the tubing from the fan right up to the heating element chamber have accumulated debris? I would have guessed that it would only accumulate in the metal heating element chamber.<< I daren't take the top off the darn thing at the moment, in case the engineers shrieks "Guarantee violation! Guarantee violation!" at me. However one really doughty owner has posted the following, which suggest that the issue is as you say i.e. with the fan box and the element, but not necessarily with the endless tubing connecting the two (he is talking about the wt945 model, but I assume the WT2780 might have the same arrangement): https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177912-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_stage https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177920-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_1_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177928-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_2_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177934-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_3_4_fix This is the key info, relating to the difficult-to-reach fan box at the bottom of the machine: "The next stage is to attempt a cleanout of the fan box itself. Fortunately you can get to some of what is needed without dismounting the whole box (if you want to bite the bullet on this straight away, go to Stage 3). Dismount the heater by undoing the two large bolts at the front holding it to the drum, and two Torx bolts at the rear. Although the heater is still attached to the flexible rubber outlet at the front, it will swing up and off to one side just enough to reveal an upward-facing hole at the rear – this is the air outlet from the fan box. Peer down into this hole and you will be astonished at the buildup of mummified fluff and goo – it’s similar to papier mache. Draw up a comfortable chair, fix up a desk lamp to shine down the hole, and start unpicking the goo with a fine metal hook (a dentist-style hooked probe is ideal – Maplin do a good set). First clean out the hole, then probe deeper to clean out each fan blade. It’s fiddly and quite a long reach down the hole, but by no means impossible. Turn the motor manually to move on to the next blade, and every so often vacuum out the hole with a small nozzle to remove the pile of dislodged goo. Unfortunately the goo is too adherent to come out with the vacuum alone, without unpicking first." Again, this all points to a major design flaw IMHO. When I finally get the Miele visit, I shall make sure to be hovering with phone cam. Quite happy to go to Small Claims Court if they decide to get a*sey about honouring the guarantee - seems they always back down when faced with SCC. Scratching my head about why all this gunge somehow goes back up the door vent, into the element box on the top of the machine, and then down into the fan box - if it is due to powder-rich condensation from the drum during a wash, then the bottom line is that they need to fit some sort of automatic flap over that particular orifice. Would not expect Bosch, AEG etc. to necessarily spend the cash to do it, but for that £1000 premium I handed Miele, yes I would indeed expect it. p.s. amazed at how many people mention the near impossibility of getting hold of Miele manuals - bit late now we are exiting the EU, but I would have thought that would be open to a complaint regarding restriction of competition?
  19. wixy15
    hi, i have a logik L814wm16 washing machine displaying error code e21 (drain pump error), I have cleaned the filter, removed and cleaned the pump, removed and cleaned the sump hose, removed and cleaned the pressure bottle and hose but the problem persists - the pump is definitely working - its spinning. I know that there's no water in the machine and yet it's stilling trying to pump out. I have replaced the water sensor switch. Is there likely to be a drain sensor anywhere? When the pump isn't connected I get error e12 (overfill error). I'm about to give up and buy a new one....but... thanks for any guidance. jack
  20. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hello David. If it's a metallic sound then it's highly unlikely to be brushes. An easy way to determine if the noise is caused by the motor or something in the drum is to just take off the drive belt. If it sounds like a piece of metal is stuck inside it may actually be something like that. Underwires from bras are very common causing a scraping metallic sound but normally if one gets stuck inside it is constantly touching the drum so can be heard when the drum is spun by hand. A noisy washing machine can be caused by so many things that I had to write to lengthy articles to cover them all. Obviously at 11 years old it's not going to be worth spending much money at all, you could easily argue that 11 years these days is plenty and quite lucky. Here are links to my two articles which you should hopefully spend time to carefully read because it contains every possible cause of the noise that I can think of - Washing machine is noisy | More possible causes of a noisy washing machine
  21. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Yes I think it is a very strange place to put a dryer fan. The main problem I see is that it would need to be a lot more powerful than normal to be able to force the air over the element and down into the drum effectively. Have you seen that the tubing from the fan right up to the heating element chamber have accumulated debris? I would have guessed that it would only accumulate in the metal heating element chamber.
  22. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Ha ha that's a bit unfair I couldn't have been more balanced, I said, ". It could well be that this is the sole cause of these troubles, or it could be that it is only a partial cause. It could even potentially not really the cause at all and the main cause is just that washer dryers are badly designed and an impractical concept and probably should never be made."
  23. Dav Dav joined the community
  24. Dav
    Hi there, I have a Hotpoint Aquarius WF321. On spin it is very loud, a rattling noise as if a piece of metal is stuck inside. When the drum is rotated manually by hand it sounds relatively smooth, no harsh grinding, more like fine sandpaper being pushed on wooden surface. The machine is 11 years old. In Curry’s, they suggested the brushes gone. But, the bearing may also be on the way out? Any more opinions are welcome. Wondering if I should replace machine or go for brushes replacement. thanks, David
  25. jayj
    Hi Andy - thanks for the Bosch Bosch WKD28351GB info, very interesting indeed - and it looks like you could be right, that this issue could affect most washer-dryer units. However... as I found out from the Fixya competent amateur DIY owners, the whole issue with the darn Miele design is that the fan unit is not on top (as it seems to be on the Bosch and indeed my ancient Indesit) but.... buried deep at the bottom of the machine, so buried in fact that Miele have a policy of not opening and repairing but only replacing (at £400) - and I assume that the pipes between the fan and the element are equally gunged, in fact that is what the Fixya guys said from memory. Not wanting to make some sort of Nuremburg trial here, but my logic (until someone proves otherwise) suggests this: 1) washer-dryer element and fan systems can inherently gum up (though I NEVER had to get a repair for my 10 year old Indesit or 15 year Zanussi, and they had about 4x the usage of my precious Miele) 2) if this happens, on most machines it is easy to undo and clear as the fan and element are on the top of the machine, or - worst case scenario - it is a case of replacing the fan and/or element (and a quick check of "Indesit Washing Machine Blower Fan Motor" prices comes in at just £25). 3) However those wonderful Immer Besser Engineers at Miele have decided that the best place to put the dryer fan is... ...in the least accessible part of the machine, together with the a long length of gungeable tubing (oh, and with an absence of sensors so that many people don't even get an error code when the dryer system croaks) , so that a user faced with this inherent defect (which can happen after as little as 2 years of normal use) is immediately faced with a bill of at least £400. Er, every couple of years or so. Again, if a Miele expert can explain why my detective work is defective, I would welcome it (show me the exploded parts diagram as proof though!) - mainly because it pains even me to think that a German engineering company such as Miele could be so dim as to design a washer-dryer in this way. As it stands however, from what I've learned here (thanks) and elsewhere, this does seem to be the likely scenario. And I would love to know if their latest models use the same system, as I would feel it my duty to warn all those potential purchasers of the £2500 models!!!!) p.s. at the risk of over-egging the pudding, the Fixya people also suggested some inherent issue with the fan workings as well, as if the rest of this saga was not enough.
  26. jayj
    Grrrr.... Andy, I can almost visualise you in a Miele engineer's uniform!!! ;o) - believe me, unless you are Rothschild, if you have just forked out for a Miele washer-dryer you treat it better than your own mother. Yes, I have indeed frequently done the boil wash routine (mainly because I assume that is the best way to degunk the usual pipes). No, I never overload the dryer in fact if it usually has just one towel or a mix of undies, knickers and socks in it - and then only after they have had a bit of a dry on the line. To be brutally frank, I would assume ANY washer-dryer would inherently have a wet and steamy atmosphere - so again, I think we are making excuses for Miele where they don't deserve it. Remember that £1000 price premium I paid for? - you're telling me that they couldn't have forked out £30 for an 'over steamy sensor and alarm system'. ???!!!! Seriously, at the very least Miele clearly don't stress test their own machines. If I was Mr Miele (assuming he ever comes into work rather than just sit at home counting his billions) I would be insisting on a test rig involving +30% over-load of a drying cycle, and building in the electronic smarts to deal with that ( "Beep! Beep! - condensation overload in main drum, please remove items and restart").
  27. jayj
    Hi again, >>I also checked out six other well-known washing machine brands and they are all exactly the same. Two stars, one star, "<< yeah, think you are right there. If I hadn't been so exhausted reading through every single Miele entry, I had intended to do the same! (Ironically, one of the few companies to get 3+ stars is.. Indesit, i.e. el cheapo) I agree about the reviews being skewed to people who complain (as they are more likely to vent their feelings than satisfied people) - shame the National Appliance Federation or whatever it is called does not mandate an independent email survey of registered customers at the 2 year stage, would be very handy, I do think that Miele should be held to higher standards however - first of all, many of the lousy repairs cited with other manufacturers will have been carried out by third party engineers - unlike Miele, where you are more or less forced to use their guys/gals. If I remember rightly, they justify this along the lines of 'our machines are so advanced, it would not make sense to let possibly untrained engineers repair them'. Yeah, right - if I do have to pay for a repair, I'll be hunting out a competent independent - assuming they can get hold of manuals and parts. Talking of parts, have you checked out the latest prices? Looking at espares, it looks like the following: Washing Machine Drain Pump = £114 Washing Machine Door Hinge = £68 Heater element = Washing Machine Heater Element - 2650W = £104 Washing Machine Outer Door Frame = £207 etc. etc. Could be wrong, but looking quickly over e.g. AEG prices (so, mid-range) they are generally 50% of the price or less. Think you have also pointed this out in past articles. As you probably noticed from the Miele reviews (after weeding out the ones from the ignorant whiners) the story seems to be: The machine failed - we called Miele - they argued the toss about the warranty, if there was one - they then took ages to send their repair guy/gal, often cancelling at the last minute - the first repair often did not work - and often if they did offer to repair out of warranty, the parts cost was so astronomical we were left thinking better to junk and replace. I wish I had access to the cost spreadsheets for Miele but in the absence of those, my (totally uneducated) guess would be this - I can get a nice-enough looking Beko washer-dryer WDA914401W for £422, with a Best Buy rating from the blessed Which?. Now, clearly the Miele has a better outer drum (steel - so lasts far longer and is impervious to objects making holes in it), plus a better external finish (really tough enamel). I would guess that unlike my Miele, the Beko suspension etc. could not deal with just a single pair of jeans (rapidly becoming my number one reason for buying a Miele). Does it have better electronics, which are better protected? From what I have seen, unlikely (and a detailed review on the German site made it clear that the workings of the newer Miele control panels are totally counter-intuitive). But of course the Miele model is, at cheapest, £1700 - i.e. £1278 dearer.... and (total guess) I assume that the steel outer drum and the nice enamel exterior and even the better suspension should only add at max £150 in construction cost. Let's be charitable and say that leaves + £1000 in extra cost price. At £422, if the dryer seizes up etc. after 2 years (remember, our Miele is showing key faults at 8.5 years of very low usage, so really just 2-3 years normal usage), then I have a fairly easy choice - chuck the Beko and replace, or go to Joe/Joanna round the corner and let them do a repair, probably max £150. My gripe about Miele (echoed by others) is that they claim absolute superiority in quality and design, and that darned 'Built for 20 years - but we only guarantee for 2 years' tripe. I do believe their washing machines (in the past at least) qualified for this statement, and also their hoovers and probably their dishwashers too. As for their other appliances - and especially their washer dryers - not so sure.
  28. jonboyuk
    I guess it was just my way of saying thanks. You saved me about £200, so thanks to you!
  29. KeithMason
    They actually didn't charge anything.. just a charge to return the board. But officially, they charge £33.49 (through eBay) and then give the following refunds; 1. If No Fault Found following full functional testing, we will refund you 25% 2. If No Fault Found but we don't have a full functional test, we will refund you in full 3. If we are unable to repair, we will refund you in full. 4. If you want it returned, there will be a £3.50 deduction for shipping. I guess I was option 2, although I'm not sure how thoroughly they have been able to test it. I should get it back tomorrow. Anyway, in the meantime, I Have stripped down the washer dryer for parts on eBay, and have purchased a new machine. :-) Trying a Samsung this time, as it has a 5 year warranty - never had Samsung before, so I hope that's not a mistake.
  30. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    A lot of people seem concerned that their washing machine doesn't look like it has enough water in the drum during wash. Many people will be used to hold the washing machines where you could always see water inside the drum, especially on the rinses. I've just written an article on this very subject looking at how much water a washing machine should take in and whether or not you should see water inside the drum when it's washing - Is my washing machine taking in enough water?
  31. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.
  32. Ray Collington
    Thanks Andy Good summary and considered opinion, I fully agree with you. I wish I knew this when my wife was singing the virtues of these machines and we made the mistake of buying one. No more washer/dryers for me. Thank you very much.
  33. bob12241
    Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob
  34. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    It's possible there's something wrong with the pressure system but it is a bit of a weird fault so it might not be Faults on pressure system
  35. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Hello there. Components with metal casings usually have an earth connection. However, if such a part is connected to a plastic part or is otherwise isolated from the plastic part by plastic fixings there is usually no need for an earth wire. In the past washing machine motors were always earthed because they were fixed to metal outer tubs. But these days almost all of the outer tubs are made of plastic and therefore the motor is totally isolated and not needing earthing. I have never heard of heating element with two brown wires. Brown is obviously live. So there is normally a brown wire on one heating element connector, and a blue wire on the opposite and because the heating element is metal and submerged in the water it must be earthed so there is a yellow and green earth wire. A photo might be useful. You should be able to easily attach a photo.
  36. Whitegoodshelp (Andy)
    Having said all that check out the photos in this thread about a Bosch washer dryer. Photos published halfway through the thread clearly show a very similar issue where the heating element compartment and fan chamber or cake tin gunge and what looks like limescale and soap powder.. Water is not supposed to get anywhere near these parts. These are separate add-on parts to enable the otherwise normal washing machine to tumble dry. However the photos clearly show that it is very wet inside there and there is an accumulation of gunge and even what looks like limescale. So either somehow water is getting up there when it shouldn't. The only place it could get is up through the vent built into the door seal. This is where the fan from the dryer blows hot air into the drum. However it should be impossible for water to get up there because if you examine it in your own washing machine it's quite high up and well away from water levels. It could be that hot steam which is containing dissolved soap powder is getting up there during washes and then as it cools down condensing into water and depositing the limescale and soap powder. I myself have seen many cases where when I take off the heating element cover for the dryer it is wet inside and covered in deposits and fluff. As it happens in all washer dryers I've ever seen I can only conclude it is possibly a design flaw.
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