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Found 15 results

  1. What would you say is the safest, a washing machine with a rubber belt between wash motor and spider pulley, or a Direct Drive motor at the back of the wash drum? I would say if the drum stopped turning (say it collapsed due to broken bearings, or just got seized) that on a belt driven drum that eventually the motor spindle would just burn through the black rubber belt , or the belt would just slip off? - but on a direct drive motor the resistance would just overheat and possibly act like an element and possibly cause a fire? - especially if it didn't have any kind of protection on the motor board to cut power to the direct drive motor? - this is one of the reasons that has put me off getting direct drive washing machines in the past. - apart from that is there anything that one system has over the other that makes it better ?
  2. Hi, Andy. All the washing machines I have worked on have normally had their wash motors underneath the machine attached to the outer drum tub - but i have noticed on some throughout the years that some have had the wash motor at the top of the machine tub. This must make it a dream for changing carbon brushes or the motor itself, just pop the lid off the washing machine and bob's your uncle! so why did the manufacturers go back to / or switch to putting them under the drum nowadays? - Does the placement of the motor affect spin keeping the drum more stable when spinning or weight on shock absorbers is less on top of the drum if underneath , or maybe they put it on the top when there was not enough clearance under the machine - or was it just preference with some manufacturers to put the motor on top?
  3. Hi all. New here so bare with me. Two days ago I put a wash on as normal and whilst I was in the shower I heard a loud pop come from the washing machine. When I went into the kitchen the washing machine was completely off and I’m unable to get it back on at all. There was an electrical burn smell in the air. I decided to have a look in the back of the machine and found that the connector wire to the motor has been burnt, also there’s a lot of what may be like scale or rust on the male connector. I’ll attach photos for you to see. Anyway my question is, will I be able to repair this? And if so do you know how? If you have any questions feel free to ask. P.s the connector is disconnected in the pictures. I done this myself and I did not find t like that, it was connected when I opened up the machine. Many thanks Jax
  4. Hi. I've had my Classixx 1000 about 21 years. Yesterday it successfully washed, but today the motor is not working. Because I found some remnants of a paper facewipe in yesterdays wash, I wondered (at first) if I had a drainage problem, but now I know the fault is simply that the motor has failed to run at all. The wash program actually starts and ends, i.e. I do not get a fault indication. During the program I can hear clicking that appears to come from the main circuit board. I surmise I'm hearing the operation of a relay. The drum spins easily and the belt is good. So, I'm wondering if anyone can suggest what the fault is. Is it likely to be worn brushes, given the suddeness of the appearance of the fault? Thanks.
  5. Hi Everyone, I have a VERY old Hotpoint washing machine - a Hotpoint 9545 Electronic 1200 DE LUXE which I've been told is about 30 years old! It's soldiered on relentlessly but I think the motor may have packed up as at the weekend there was some smoke/burning smell coming from it. I've checked a spare parts web site and I was able to find a motor for the Hotpoint 9546 but not the 9545 and I was hoping that someone could tell me whether the motor could still be used on my 9545. I contacted Hotpoint but they couldn't help me as the machine was discontinued ages ago so maybe a technician who's a member here might be able to help me. It's a long shot I know but you never know... Mark G.
  6. Hello there.. I have a Beko washing machine WM6133W. Recently, the motor started to change speed every 3 seconds or so. I thought it was a tacho coil that was broken but I found out that it is a ring attached to rotor shaft (where the tacho is reading the speed of rotor). It seems it is made of plastic (brown colour) and it is cracked in half. As it was attached to rotor I'm just wondering if it's possible to buy it as a spare part. Any suggestions? Photos attached. Thanks. Daniel
  7. Hello I have a Beko wm74135w that recently would not enter its final spin. It would spin fine up until the final spin though. I checked the brushes and one was worn completely down. The other maybe only 30% worn. I had only changed them about a year ago so. I ordered some new brushes but they were for a different Beko model. They are angled the correct way though so I put the new brushes in to the original brush casing and fitted them. All was fine and it was fast spinning except it seemed to spin faster than usual (can't confirm is this true or not since I am not the one that usually uses the machine). Next it started smoking from the back (I presume motor) So I switched it off. I checked the brushes to make sure that they were fitted correctly and they seemed to fit flush but there does appear to be some burnt marks on the brushes. Now the motor will not work at all. I have entered Test mode and the first thing that comes up on the screen is "E--". I presume that this means that there are no errors. The next thing that comes up is "052". Could the brushes have burnt out the motor? Could this be a problem somewhere else in the machine? What does "052" actually mean? Thanks
  8. Hi folks I have a hoover washing machine which recently stopped spinning. I took the motor out and found the brushes were worn down so I've ordered a new pair. However on closer inspection I've noticed some notches in the center part of the motor and I'm no expert but it doesn't look right to me. Will I need a new motor or shall I just whack the new brushes in and hope for the best? Please take a look, thanks.
  9. Hi There, Yesterday evening our Samsung washing machine (WF70F5E0N4W) was finishing it's cycle when there was quite a large bang and the drum stopped spinning. Having had a look through the troubleshooting pages here, I took the back off the machine and found the belt had clearly come off but was intact. Having refitted the belt I tried a quick wash with a small load and found that, once in the spin cycle, the drum was severely shaking. On further investigation, I found that this time the belt was still intact but I did notice that there was considerable black dust/debris in the housing. There was also a large bolt and washer loose in the bottom of the machine which turned out to be one of a pair that fixes the motor to the drum (see pictures). It appears that the motor has started to part company with the drum... As some of the plastic housing is still attached to the bolt I have a sneaking suspicion this might be quite a considerable fault to fix. We've only recently inherited the machine from the previous owners of the house for free so I'm now debating whether to call someone to attempt a repair or just bite the bullet and buy a new one. I'd really appreciate anyone's thoughts on what the best course of action is? Many Thanks, Matt
  10. Hi there My 2 year old Beko drum stopped turning. Error code F11 can be seen in diagnostic mode. The drum feels 'juddery' when turning by hand and this is coming from the motor - when disconnecting the belt and turning the motor head by hand the judder can be felt. However, and this is the strange part - disconnecting the motor from the circuit board entirely, allows the motor head to move freely. Tried a new motor but still the same. Any thoughts? Thanks
  11. Hi, Looking for some help diagnosing the issue with my washing machine! I have a Beko WMB 81455 LW - 15 months old (just out of warranty ) which stopper working at the weekend. I can't remember any particular event that occurred that caused it to stop working. Now when I try to turn it on and put it on any washing cycle, the machine rinses the detergent chamber as usual but then never starts, it continues to fill/rinse the detergent chamber, stop and repeat. Even if putting the machine on a spin and drain cycle only, nothing happens. I therefore believe the issue is likely a motor fault..? I have tried putting the system into test mode as described here (http://www.how-to-repair.com/help/beko-washing-machine-self-test-diagnostic-mode/) and find that it never performs any of the spin related test steps. Also when putting the system into test mode, a number flashes up on screen - 0417, I'm not sure if this is an error code, can't find any further details from google. I have cleaned the pump filter as I have read is recommended, though to no avail. Not sure what to do next. Any help with next steps to diagnose/fix the issue would be great. Thanks, Estudent1
  12. Hi there, After any help we can get really - we have an EU Zanussi F1232 washing machine, the problem is that the spin stops after a few seconds, it tries a few times and then then completely aborts the cycle. Here is a video of the attempted spin in action: https://vimeo.com/190366341 Can anybody diagnose the fault from the video? Many thanks in advance. Alexi
  13. Can anyone help me with this motor, the zwf1420w washing machine is showing an error code of 5flashes on the end led and 1flash on the start led. Is this a motor fault as the drum is not turning. The bearings were getting noisey and I ordered new ones with a new tub seal and changed the interlock then the error code changed so have not changed the bearings yet. I thought it could be brushes on the motor but no brushes are listed as parts for this motor. What should I do? A new motor seams ridiculous in price after the cost of the bearings, tub seal and interlock. But I really wanted to fix this machine.
  14. Hi! I've got a problem with my Hotpoint WDL520 and looking for advice. I recently put in a load of towels (read: heavy, wet) and left it to wash and dry while I went to work. I came back and the machine had flipped a breaker (I think when starting the spin cycle - there was still water in the drum, but not much soap). I manually released the door lock, turned the socket off, reset the breaker, and turned the socket back on. The program came up fine, I switched it to 'pump out', closed the door, and the breaker flipped again immediately (with the door re-locked). I had a problem a couple months ago where the motor was causing a short - I had cleaned it out with some compressed air, which seemed to solve it at the time, so I thought it was the motor again, but I disconnected the motor and got the same short. I reconnected the motor and went through the other connectors, disconnecting and seeing what would reproduce the short and found that if I unplugged the heater coil (pink wire pictured here), the washing machine would run (tested just for a few minutes) without shorting. I disassembled the dryer enclosure (pictured) and found the coil to be quite wet. I tested the resistance of the heater coil (both with the pink wire connected and disconnected) and got 45 ohms. I'm currently letting it dry to see if this changes. So - questions. Is this a normal resistance for the heater coil? Should I replace it? If this is normal, is there some other current-limiting component that may have failed that I should look at? If this ends up being an expensive repair, can I wash with the machine with the wire disconnected without causing more damage? Thanks for any help!
  15. I have a Hotpoint First Edition 1200 and it keeps tripping the electricity. Originally the machine would stick mid cycle when the motor was supposed to turn the drum. found the brushes to be worn so replaced them with genuine spares. I even did some continuity testing on the motor, all ok. it ran fine to start with but now when the motor has to do a high speed spin it trips the electric. re-checked for continuity and all ok. TOC is fine as well. I've watched it run without the lid on and at high speed the motor sparks like a beast, looks like a small flame kicks in (orange spark in colour) and then trips. Any ideas? thanks!
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