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  1. What would you say is the safest, a washing machine with a rubber belt between wash motor and spider pulley, or a Direct Drive motor at the back of the wash drum? I would say if the drum stopped turning (say it collapsed due to broken bearings, or just got seized) that on a belt driven drum that eventually the motor spindle would just burn through the black rubber belt , or the belt would just slip off? - but on a direct drive motor the resistance would just overheat and possibly act like an element and possibly cause a fire? - especially if it didn't have any kind of protection on the motor board to cut power to the direct drive motor? - this is one of the reasons that has put me off getting direct drive washing machines in the past. - apart from that is there anything that one system has over the other that makes it better ?
  2. Hello there, Having called the repairers out twice already to be told the grinding noise coming from my LG (front loading Direct Drive F1247TD5 washing machine) was 'user-error' (erm ?!?!) I decided to take a look myself. A low pitch, very loud, intermittent grinding noise (please hear attached). The noise sounds only during wash and rinse cycles Some days (rare) there is no sound, others and the noise is constant. The machine is 3 years old & I live alone WHAT HAVE I ALREADY TRIED? Checked pump filter (no blockage), Checked rotating part inside the pump is still 'firm', no wobbling and snaps back when pushed. Both pumps clean/clear of debris. Removed the sump hose, checked all pipes for blockages, I wasn't able to find anything behind the drum, well anything that would have made its way down to the sump anyway. Checked the inner drum for evident obstructions in any holes Checked the inner drum for movement and there appears to be no play/movement up/down or side/side I bought the service manual online and put it through test programmes. I wasn't able to get the machine to recreate the noise within any of the tests though unfortunately WHAT I HAVENT YET TRIED I have not attempted to separate inner and outer drum as yet I tried to remove the rear machine bolt in an attempt to check the bearings. Videos show this to be relatively easy once you've got the bolt eased off, then it's easy turning. But the only way I could get the bolt to turn was by hitting the socket arm very very hard with a mallet. Not just once to loosen it up. But over and over again to make it move at all. I stopped after several 'whacks' as I was too worried about damaging it long term. And thus I haven't accessed the bearings yet. What I have done towards possible solution so far I have ordered 2 x new pumps, but am loathed to try them in case that is not the problem. - I can't really afford to waste £50 :-( Any help would be greatly appreciated Thank you, and with very best wishes from, Miss TippyWhippet
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