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  1. Whirlpool has issued a recall notice on some of its models of washing machines due to a potential safety concern. It affects certain models of Hotpoint and Indesit washing machines made between October 2014 and 2018 and it is feared more than 11,000 machines in UK & Ireland may be impacted. A flaw with the door-locking system may lead them to overheat and potentially catch fire. Whirpool launched an urgent recall of certain models of tumble dryers over fire safety fears in July of this year. If you think your washing machine might be affected, you can check by calling 0800 316 1442 or by visiting https://washingmachinerecall.whirlpool.co.uk Here is a full list of the models involved in the Whirlpool recall of fire-risk Hotpoint and Indesit branded washing machines. The models are listed by their commercial code, followed by the brand name. FML 742P UK Hotpoint WMAOD 743G UK Hotpoint WMAOD 743P UK Hotpoint WMAQB 721P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQC 641P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQC 741G UK Hotpoint WMAQC 741P UK Hotpoint WMAQC 741P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQF 621G UK Hotpoint WMAQF 621P UK Hotpoint WMAQF 641 P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQF 721G UK Hotpoint WMAQF 721P UK.M Hotpoint WMAQL 621G UK Hotpoint WMBF 742G UK Hotpoint WMBF 742K UK Hotpoint WMBF 742P UK Hotpoint WMBF 742P UK.M Hotpoint WMBF 763P UK Hotpoint WMEF 722 BC UK Hotpoint WMEF 742 P UK Hotpoint WMEUF 722P UK Hotpoint WMEUF 743G UK Hotpoint WMEUF 743P UK Hotpoint WMFG 741P UK Hotpoint WMFG 741P UK.M Hotpoint WMFUG 742 P UK.M Hotpoint WMFUG 742G UK Hotpoint WMFUG 742P UK Hotpoint WMFUG 842P UK.M Hotpoint WMJLF 842P UK Hotpoint WMJLL 742P UK Hotpoint WMSAQG 621P UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742G UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742K UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742P UK Hotpoint WMXTF 742P UK.M Hotpoint WMXTF 842P UK.M Hotpoint WMYL 7151PS UK Hotpoint XWA 81252X K UK Indesit XWA 81252X W UK Indesit XWD 71452X K UK Indesit
  2. Hi Everyone, I have a VERY old Hotpoint washing machine - a Hotpoint 9545 Electronic 1200 DE LUXE which I've been told is about 30 years old! It's soldiered on relentlessly but I think the motor may have packed up as at the weekend there was some smoke/burning smell coming from it. I've checked a spare parts web site and I was able to find a motor for the Hotpoint 9546 but not the 9545 and I was hoping that someone could tell me whether the motor could still be used on my 9545. I contacted Hotpoint but they couldn't help me as the machine was discontinued ages ago so maybe a technician who's a member here might be able to help me. It's a long shot I know but you never know... Mark G.
  3. The Hotpoint manual provides guidance and a diagram for removing the detergent dispenser tray, which says to lift up and pull forward.. I've not seen one of this type before, instead of the usual tray that pulls forward, it has a swinging grey front door opening to 90degrees revealing the white plastic soap and conditioner tray. As the external parts are all grey, it is easy to see which bit of the white innards should be lifted and pulled forward as instructed, but no amount of tugging and wiggling has got it to move. Am I missing something here? I can't see any obvious clip or spring device. Anyone know how to get this tray out?
  4. Hi, I was trying to find similar problem at this forum but couldn't. Around two weeks ago my washing machine has started stuck in first washing cycle. Machine fills and drains, doing 2-3 spins and again fills and so on. After playing with washing setting I found out that machine works fine if I choose to wash it without heating water. I thought that this is because of limescale on the heating element, but today I took of this element and it looks almost like new. What else can cause this issue? Shall I try to replace heating element? Would appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello! I have a Hotpoint HE8L493 works fine but after I dropped my phone beside it (how fate makes us find things out eh) then ran my hand on the left bottom leg of my washer and I felt a bit of wetness/moisture and I wiped it with a tissue. I just finished a cycle of wash then and after that, I tried loading another cycle and I placed a tissue beneath it. After the cycle I had a look at the tissue. It isn't enough to soak it fully nor partially but there are some wetness on it. I don't know if it is condensation or a leak? It's too small I think to be considered major leak or even felt as it doesnt even drop a water to the floor. You literally need to "press" your hand on the washing machine leg or dab a tissue to see the wetness. So is it a leak or what? Thanks!
  6. Hello everyone, New to the forum so if this is the wrong place please excuse me. So I received this Hotpoint hv7l130g after my old Indesit died as my dad had it spare. The machine ran though two usual washes successfully but after we switched to to "baby" mode for kids clothes it died on me. Symptoms: Door was locked and had to be forced open. Any program chosen to be run tries to start, I get a lot of clicks from the interlock and then the door lock light flashes. I assumed that the interlock had failed so I replaced it today with a new one but the problem persists. So I have had the machine in pieces, I have checked the following with the multimeter: Motor (All seemed well, brushed in good condition and the commutator was clean), Water heating element (got a 50ish ohm reading from it). In addition I also checked the drainage pump and sump hose for debris but they were clear. I have examined the control board and all the capacitors seem to be okay, no bulging and pass a beep test with the multimeter. I am at a complete loss as to whats wrong with this machine. Does anyone have any suggestions before I sink even more money into a new control board? This freebie is becoming a money pit!! Cheers in Advance, Badger.
  7. Hi Hoping someone can help have a washer dryer that won't drain I have replaced the pump,pcb and the pump wiring but it has made no difference apart from the main module (which I understand needs programming if replaced) in the bottom of the machine I can't think what else it might be all pipes hoses are fine it's like the pump isn't getting any power
  8. Newbie post, got a slight leak. Had washer over and found end point ... But before I reach for screwdriver, does anyone have advice about where this 'might' be originating from/seen it before. It's not a great deal of water but the staining at least shows me I am not dreaming. Door seal is grubby but seems intact. Model: wmal 621 6kg Images: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1l0Ihm2JDe_IySR7bXDqgk2Yj7IJT8fNs Or https://drive.google.com/file/d/1as8MGu0zX8n76ElR_yrl07St3bDqwTyr/view?usp=drivesdk Thanks for your experience. If not clear from image, the concrete is towards the front of nachine. Looking at it, the drip point is central to door, but that might only be the fall point of the leak and mean little. By the way, I did read the sticky post on leaks before adding this!
  9. Our washing machine keeps filling with water, even when not on. Not sure if the filling is linked to the dishwasher or not. It did flash and beep H2O. I’m assuming it figured there was a water problem but not sure if that is an error code too? It will also start a cycle but then just stop, making a whirring noise. If paused, it sometimes starts again, others not. Is this the motor? Help! I’ve got two kids and a mountain of washing!!
  10. Washing machine has started to make rattling noise on free spin. Can anyone suggest what the problem may be? How much a repair would cost?
  11. It's a July-2015 washer-dryer. Clothes often come out more dirty than they came in. They are covered with some very fine gray fiber that we take off using a roller sticker. We tried: - Cleaning the big rubber seal of the door - Cleaning the pump's filter (the one you have to pop the front lower lid off and turn it out, it was actually quite clean) - Running the secret "A+B for 7 seconds" self-cleaning cycle - Running an empty wash with washing machine cleaner We get the fluffy stuff even if we don't run a dryer. We are careful not to put lint-generating clothes in it (but maybe my lodger did that before). It feels as if there is something that's storing this fuzz and it needs to be cleaned. I am wondering if I can do it myself because I live in Newbury and it's an "all you can rip off buffet" for tradesmen here (our neighbor Reading has 2 or 3 times cheaper tradesmen). Thanks for any ideas.
  12. I have Hotpoint WDL540 G (UK) C washer/drier which is very ill. The only functions it will perform is to pump out, operate the door lock, and the filling solenoid. When filling, it does this in a sequence of short bursts, then nothing. I have done resistance checks on the motor, heater, and sensors, and all seem OK. I have tried running with pressure sensor pipe disconnected (it is not blocked), and with the sensor connector removed. In desperation, I have replaced the main control module, but without success. There are no fault indications on the lights on the front panel. I am an experienced electronics engineer, so I should have sorted this by now, but am at a loss to know what to do next. Could it be the front panel unit is the problem?
  13. Firstly apologies if you can't assist with dryers, I did check and I didn't see anything to say you didn't but at the same time I didn't see anything to say you did. We have a Hotpoint TCL780 Condenser Dryer, it recently stopped getting drying clothes and just ran cool. I did various investigation work (basically I googled it!), everything appeared to point to a problem with the thermostats. I bought a couple of replacement thermostats off eBay, fitted these but no change, the dryer still didn't get hot. I did a bit more digging and it suggested I replaced all 3 thermostats rather than the 2 I had already replaced. In the end I decided to buy the entire heater unit complete with thermostats. Before this arrived I was playing around with the dryer and I found it did get warm when using one of the Set and Forget programmes, i.e. 1 Ready To Wear 2 Cottons Cupboard Dry, it only doesn't work when you try and set using one of the number, i.e. 60. The replacement heater unit arrived and I fitted it yesterday, anyway there is no change it still only works on the Set and Forget programmes. I've already cleaned out the dryer, removed any fluff etc, we've also had the 'safety' repair several months ago so it should all be good to go Any suggestions on what to try next?
  14. Afternoon, Our Hotpoint WML730 Aquarius washing machine started making a noise during the spin cycle yesterday, this coincides with 'grit' appearing in our water, whether it's related or not I don't know. When I got home from work the water was clear but small speckles of grit were found in the detergent tray, we cleaned this out as well as the filter, where I found 55p I started a quick wash and the washer filled up and the drum turned for a while, as soon as it got to the spin cycle it stopped. I powered the machine off a few times and tried various programmes but nothing appears to work. If I have the detergent tray open then I can see water going in to the tray area, water also appears inside the washer. I've uploaded a few videos to You Tube which will hopefully help in diagnosing the problem. For the record I replaced the carbon brushes approx. 6 months ago as we had a similar issue, I've checked the brushes and they appear OK although I'm not sure if these are again the problem. The drum spins by hand and the belt is in place and hasn't snapped. Any help or advice much appreciated. Thank you. Nick.
  15. Has anyone else experienced glitter like stuff on there washing from a hot point washing machine
  16. I have an elderly Hotpoint Aquarius WMA33 washing machine. It works fine during "wash" cycles and water pumps out okay but on "rinse and spin" water gushes out of the soap powder dispenser. It happens after the rinsing phase; just as the spin phase begins. When I tried it with the soap dispenser removed, I could see the water was coming back up from the drum - and there's quite a lot of it. At the same time there is a small amount of water coming out of the rear drain-pipe, so the pump appears to be working. Any ideas?
  17. Hi! I've got a problem with my Hotpoint WDL520 and looking for advice. I recently put in a load of towels (read: heavy, wet) and left it to wash and dry while I went to work. I came back and the machine had flipped a breaker (I think when starting the spin cycle - there was still water in the drum, but not much soap). I manually released the door lock, turned the socket off, reset the breaker, and turned the socket back on. The program came up fine, I switched it to 'pump out', closed the door, and the breaker flipped again immediately (with the door re-locked). I had a problem a couple months ago where the motor was causing a short - I had cleaned it out with some compressed air, which seemed to solve it at the time, so I thought it was the motor again, but I disconnected the motor and got the same short. I reconnected the motor and went through the other connectors, disconnecting and seeing what would reproduce the short and found that if I unplugged the heater coil (pink wire pictured here), the washing machine would run (tested just for a few minutes) without shorting. I disassembled the dryer enclosure (pictured) and found the coil to be quite wet. I tested the resistance of the heater coil (both with the pink wire connected and disconnected) and got 45 ohms. I'm currently letting it dry to see if this changes. So - questions. Is this a normal resistance for the heater coil? Should I replace it? If this is normal, is there some other current-limiting component that may have failed that I should look at? If this ends up being an expensive repair, can I wash with the machine with the wire disconnected without causing more damage? Thanks for any help!
  18. Hi there! I have a hotpoint Aquarius wdl540 (wash/dry), and this has not been happening in every wash, but happened enough times to get me worried. Does anyone know the reason why the cycle sometimes starts normally but keeps going forever and won't switch to spin automatically? I noticed this few times and the only thing to do was to pause it and manually change it to spin. Spin works fine, it's that automatic finish to the wash and move onto spinning.. Than you for any help and guidance you can give me!!! Jools
  19. here are some of the 'mods' I have done to our washing machine, (after wifes approval of course) Machine: Hotpoint WMUD843 Bought September 2012: https://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0039.jpg Cut/Filed extra bit of plastic on door fascia where hinge is to allow porthole door to open back further https://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0035.jpg Adjusted water level of washing machine. By cutting the top off the Water Level switch (very carefully with a hacksaw) and adjusting plastic screw (a couple of turns slowly clockwise) this will put more water into the drum, thus if the fast wash 60'c / 40'c /30'c means that you can only wash 3kg (which is what it says in the instructions) by adjusting the level this allows us to do a full wash (8kg) on fast wash by bringing the water up to the bottom of the drum during washing allowing to wash the clothes properly and without ruining them because more water for them to wash in. However this has its own drawbacks, we find it puts an extra 5-10 onto the wash, and throws the 'time to end' out. Say if it says '0.01' on last rinse the display will go to 'spin 0.06' and then after 6 minutes the was will end. Also because of more water going into drum you will have to add a bit more washing powder than normal and of course the water wll take longer to heat up the water if it has more water going into the drum. Beware if you are going to attempt this yourself because if you screw the water level switch too much the water will come up to the bottom of the bottom of the glass on the porthole door, but not only that, after it washes and comes to rinse the display will go crazy, bring up an error number and the buzzer will beep indicating a fault with the washing machine, so when adjusting the water level have it stop when the water comes up to the bottom rim of the drum and no higher. The water Level Switch : https://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0041.jpg Unsoldered the Buzzer from the back of the LCD panel. Thanks to Hotpoint/Indesit to not allowing the consumer to disable the 'Beeps' on the washing machine when you press the buttons or an error occurs or signal at the end of the completed wash this was getting on our nerves, so the only thing to do was unsolder one of the legs to the back of the buzzer which is located on the electronic board behind the LED display at the top front of the machine. Pretty sure Hotpoing could have made it so the consumer could have disabled the beeps even if the consumer had to press 2 buttons on the front of the fascia to do so, its supposed to be a 'super silent washer' that you can put on at night why have it that you cannot disable the loud beeps? Changed 2 phase wires on the motor, swapped them around so spin goes clockwise as opposed to ant-clockwise as every other automatic washing machine since they were invented spun in a clockwise direction but Hotpoint and Indesit machines lately seem to spin anti-clockwise, I dont know why? - maybe there is science that spinning anti-clockwise spins more water out of the clothes or less creases or what? i dunno really, but its more stisfying to watch the drum spin in the 'proper' direction now to what we are used to and the clothes come out just as dry as when it was spinning anti-clockwise We spin at 1200rpm, thats for towels jeans a cottons. The Machine will spin 1400rpm at a maximum but theres a few reasons we spin at 1200rpm, one is the spin is less noisier and less vibrate at 1200rpm than 1400rpm, I think personally it helps save the wear and tear bearings on the drum the lower the spin speed you select and prolong the life of the drum bearings/machine (I have nothing to back it up its just how i feel) - and also did not like the stories of the drums 'exploding' at the weld of the drum and crashing through the top of the washing machine at high spin speed on programmes like watchdog on the TV, i just figured if its spinning at 1200rpm it might do less damage than if the drum splits and 'explodes' at 1400rpm! Notes I observerved when 'tinkering' with machine: Drum: I noted the part number label on the outer machine drum and although the machine is an 8KG one and marketed as 8KG the part number of the drum matches exactly with the same part number of a 9KG drum and same physical size, so all I can denote is that the Drum is capable of taking 9KG of washing but maybe the combination of water level and software on the main control board are programmed to fill it up as a 8KG machine on this washing machine. Motor: The motor is of a Induction type motor, this gives the machine its 'super silent wash' and quiter spin (no shrill on spin) and no motor brushes to change ever which is good. A surprising thing to note on the part label on the motor it says its 1900rpm maximum speed! - really, in a 1400rpm washing machine?? - all I can denote is that to make all parts available I think Hotpoint use the same induction motor across their machines and govern the speed of the motors spin speed by programming the main control board with software attuned to the machine the motor is fitted to, so for example we have a 1400 spin speed model of Hotpoint however the motor says 1900rpm, so that screams to me that in the software of the main control panel the software limits/governs the motor to spin speed at 1400rpm! Main Control Board: The Main electronic Control Board (Bottom right of machine if looking at the front of the machine face on) looks to me to be a standard main board fitted across the WMUD range (and maybe some other Hotpoint washers) and all thats different per machine is the software that is loaded onto the EEPROM chip on the main board, in fact I think if you buy a brand new control board from Hotpoint service it comes as standard with no software loaded on it whatsover (this is what i think I havent looked fully into it) which means if your control board goes 'BANG!' one day you cant just order a new board from Hotpoint/Indesite service and unplug your old board and put the new one in, I dont think that will work, I think the new board will have to be programmed with software designed for your model of washing machine, so if you have the WMUD843 this will be programmed to tell it to use washing programs for the WMUD843, Spin at 1400rpm maximum speed and fill up and wash to the specifications of an 8KG machine. - In the old days an engineer would come out and get out his laptop and special lead and plug it into a 'Diagnostic socket' at the rear of the machine and would have to take no covers off the machine at all (well apart from the cover covering the diagnostic socket) and plug the lead into the diagnostic socket and on his laptop would all the software for the range of different Hotpoint machines and he would choose the correct software matched to the model number of your machine. These days I believe the case is (Unless i am mistaken) a laptop isnt even needed now these days and that a 'module' fits into the Diagnostic socket and something like a 'memory' card fits into the module and thats how they program or re-program a control board. I believe same module fits the sockets across the range, but the smart memory cards that hold the software or firmware if you like of the machine specifically for your model number of Hotpoint washing machine and this programs the memory chip on the main control board. Its a very effective way when you think about it because if you think about it, if new firmware (or software) comes out after the washing machine has been sold then this could in fact 'update' the machine to act differently or iron out any bugs or errors the machine may have after its sold, or update the washing machine to do extra things it couldnt do when the machine was sold, or maybe a manufacturer of a garment requires to be washed in a different way (say gentler drum agitation) well new firmware for the machine could tell the machine to do this on the required wash program. Its just the same these days as 'updating' a mobile phone or DVD player or something like that, you often find included in the firmware/software are improvements and things like bugs can be sorted out. THINGS TO NOTE IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE MESSING AROUND ADAPTING YOUR WASHING MACHINE LIKE I DID YOU WILL VOID THE WARRANTY (THE STANDARD 1 YEARS ONE AND ALSO THE 5 YEAR WARRANT ON DRUM ETC) AND MESSING AROUND WITH THE MACHINE EVEN WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED CAN ELECTROCUTE YOU THE CONTRO PANEL CONTAINS CAPACITORS THAT CAN HOLD ELECTRICITY FOR A LONG TIME EVEN AFTER UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE - DONT GO TAKING BACK OFF IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR HAVE A CLUE ABOUT THESE THINGS! AND OF COURSE YOU COULD BREAK YOUR MACHINE! - OF COURSE MANY PEOPLE WILL NOT BE LIKE ME AND BE PERFECTLY HAPPY WITH THE OPERATION OF THE HOTPOINT WMUD843 AND HAVE NO DESIRE TO MODIFY THE MACHINE THE WAYS I HAVE AND WILL BE PERFECTLY HAPPY THE WAY IT IS
  20. Without going in to too much boring detail: I have a hotpoint aquarius washing machine. It doesn't have a filter at the back, just a filter within one of the tubes at the back and the only way to access it is to use pliers to remove the big clip holding it in place (sorry I don't know the technical terms.) A coin made it's way in to my washing machine. I am aware that if the coin is stuck within the inner tank this could cause a lot of damage to the machine BUT if the coin has already made it's way down into the filter (in the tube at the back) is there still a risk of damage? i.e. if I don't remove the coin from the filter, will the machine be okay? Any advice anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  21. Hi I have a 2 year old Hotpoint Ultima WMD962 that doesn't heat the water anymore and the wash cycles are taking forever (30 min quick wash took 1.5 hours) I've read through your FAQ's and you mention that Hotpoint don't always give fault codes - mine isn't. I've tried different washes/settings but they all suffer the same drawn out, cold demise! Can someone please advise me whether there is any idiot proof checks I can do before I pay the £180 quoted to me today to come and have a look at it??? Many thanks in advance Jo
  22. Hi All this is my first post and i am afraid it is an ask. i have a Hotpoint aqualtis machine that today has decided to stop mid cycle and then will let you restart it. goes so long and then stops again. there are no codes i cant see any thing any where. any ideas before i call someone out. many thanks Nige M
  23. I have a Hotpoint First Edition 1200 and it keeps tripping the electricity. Originally the machine would stick mid cycle when the motor was supposed to turn the drum. found the brushes to be worn so replaced them with genuine spares. I even did some continuity testing on the motor, all ok. it ran fine to start with but now when the motor has to do a high speed spin it trips the electric. re-checked for continuity and all ok. TOC is fine as well. I've watched it run without the lid on and at high speed the motor sparks like a beast, looks like a small flame kicks in (orange spark in colour) and then trips. Any ideas? thanks!
  24. I have an old Hotpoint WM52 which has given up doing the final fast spin on any programme. The motor works and drives the drum normally during the wash cycle, but won't go up to fast speed for the spin dry. This started as an intermittent fault but has now become permanent. The machine drains perfectly well - to be sure I cleaned out the drain filter and found only one small 5p coin in it (was hoping for a larger haul), removal of which has not changed anything. I have changed the brushes on the motor - even though they were only changed a year or so ago and I don't use the machine heavily I could see some sparking when the motor turned so for the sake of a few quid (sadly not recouped by drain filter findings) I did it anyway. Sparking has reduced but still no fast spin (I'm assuming a small amount of sparking is normal). I took the motor out to inspect it and noticed that the commutator on the armature looks to have worn down slightly, by less than 0.5mm, where the brushes contact. I took a small electrical screwdriver and ran it between the commutator contacts to remove any residual carbon, but to no avail either. I have read elsewhere that a worn commutator could be the cause of the problem, but before I spend a substantial amount of money on a new armature/motor I would really appreciate some knowledgeable input on the likelihood of this, and anything else I might be able to try. Also, if this is a likely cause, would anybody be able to explain to me why the motor would work normally but not at high speed - is it simply a loading issue? One other possible cause that has just occurred to me, although I admit unlikely, is that I appear to have mislaid a pair of underpants - unless we have a knicker-snatcher in the neighbourhood it is feasible that these have somehow got stuck between the inner and outer drums, possibly wrapped around the spindle, but drum turns freely by hand so we can probably discount this one... is it at all likely? As I said it's an old machine, and I know they do not have a particularly good reputation, but I've had it nearly 10 years when it was given to me second-hand on the understanding that it was on it's last legs then, and I have grown quite attached to it. I like to keep things going as long as I possibly can. Any help/ideas/pointers gratefully received and appreciated.
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