BEKO WDX8543130W no lights on

[markn]

Hi all. I've read with delight the replies on here. Bought the diode and getting excited! BUT cannot get that bloody black cover off the box!! Scared I'll damage PCB if I force it. Any tips from those of you who have done this? Cheers in advance.

[davidper]

Just came here to say thank you.
My washing machine BEKO HTV 7733XW0 had exactly the same problem and when I made some measurements, everything was pointing to the PCB located on the bottom right side (looking from the back).
This forum has helped me to put the focus on the D7 diode which was indeed the broken component.
I ordered spare diode in Sinuss (Farnell partner) and after replacing it the washing machine went back to life.
It really saved us a lot of money.
Thank you all for your input!

[davidper]

On 30/07/2022 at 12:26, markn said:

Hi all. I've read with delight the replies on here. Bought the diode and getting excited! BUT cannot get that bloody black cover off the box!! Scared I'll damage PCB if I force it. Any tips from those of you who have done this? Cheers in advance.

Hi Markn, I had the same issue till I found out that you have to first unscrew the black box from the side with these two screws:

[All123]

Another very big thanks to Bob (and the other posters). I have a 4 year old Beko washer dryer. It did a really hot rinse, instead of a cold one. Next time I went to use it, it tried to switch on, made a small noise and then wouldn't work. Although the symptoms weren't exactly as others described, I bought the diode STPS2h100 as worth a try. I soldered it in and its fixed! I've used the machine 3 times since and it's working perfectly. The diode plus postage cost £12 but was the only one I could find online, in stock. Well worth it though! Many thanks Bob. 

[bob12241]

Wow £12 thats way over the top, but still its cheaper than getting someone in and fitting a new board.

[All123]

🙂That's what I thought! 

[Whitegoodshelp]

I wouldn't be surprised if the entire board only cost about £12 to make 🙂

[bob12241]

Andy your probably right, especially when the more you sell the cheaper they are.

[bob12241]

On 23/08/2022 at 08:48, All123 said:

Another very big thanks to Bob (and the other posters). I have a 4 year old Beko washer dryer. It did a really hot rinse, instead of a cold one. Next time I went to use it, it tried to switch on, made a small noise and then wouldn't work. Although the symptoms weren't exactly as others described, I bought the diode STPS2h100 as worth a try. I soldered it in and its fixed! I've used the machine 3 times since and it's working perfectly. The diode plus postage cost £12 but was the only one I could find online, in stock. Well worth it though! Many thanks Bob. 

That small noise was probably the washing machine saying "help me I am dying"  

[MartinTT]

UPDATE!

Machine has sprung to life and appears to be OK now. The problem was the "ON" switch on the front. After taking the pcb off the fascia I found the nasty plastic bits that allow the fascia button to be pressed and spring  back has somehow become "loose" and was probably holding the actual press switch on all the time. Some fiddlling around and somehow the button mechanics are now working OK and it all went back togather and appears to be working.

FYI to remove control fascia:
Remove top (2 screws at back then pull backwards).

remove detergent draw and  3 screws revealed.

unclip electrical connection

remove 3 screws on cross bar.

Pinch 2 hard to reach clips on inner underside fascia should come away (up).

 

 

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:

Sounded like same symptoms, but sadly the D7 trick doesn't seem to be the answer.
D7 and D6 appear OK to me: I  removed and tested (multimeter diode setting fwd V drop) D7 (.364),  D6 (.331). Soldered them both back. Not ordered any diodes as this looks unlikely to be the solution.

Just connecting mains to board I tested what looked likely be the low voltage DC supplies: J6 +8v relative to J12 and j43 -5v relative to J12  The 5v looked likely to be powering the atmega microcontroller circuitry on the board, which makes sense.

reconnected board and washer has same symptoms including a pathetic bleep and another when turning off (at mains) - might be the beeper or possibly relays. Front on off switch feels strange - "soft and unconvincing" could that be an issue? I haven't investigated the front control area. 

Any idea how to proceed?

Many thanks!!!!   So please to have found you wonderful thread Bob, really thought you had my solution, so great you have shared it and fixed so many machines. 

 

Martin

Edited October 14, 2022 by MartinTT
Found a fix :)

[johnisburt]

Thank you Bob, this is still helping us all years later.

Fitted my diode and all back working, great find.

 

John

[Cumbrian]

BEKO 74165W. Thanks to Bob and all those contributing to the BEKO Schottky diode issue. I have just replaced mine and it is back to running normally. One minor point I’ve not seen mentioned here is that not all machines have three PCBs. Mine has the motor controller at rear lower left; the rest of the electronics are within the front control panel where I found the D7 diode. This is a bit tricky to dismantle and I was afraid of cracking the circuit board while trying to extract it. Otherwise very straightforward.

 

Thanks

[bob12241]

1 hour ago, Cumbrian said:

BEKO 74165W. Thanks to Bob and all those contributing to the BEKO Schottky diode issue. I have just replaced mine and it is back to running normally. One minor point I’ve not seen mentioned here is that not all machines have three PCBs. Mine has the motor controller at rear lower left; the rest of the electronics are within the front control panel where I found the D7 diode. This is a bit tricky to dismantle and I was afraid of cracking the circuit board while trying to extract it. Otherwise very straightforward.

 

Thanks

Yes they all have 3 boards to my knowledge. the front is the programme selector, on/off and Led indication. The board on the rear RH side is the inverter for the motor rotation and speed (which is the dearest) and the board LH side is the one causing issues. This is the for the programme and power supply, this controls everything from water inlet, speed and times etc: 

[Cumbrian]

Thanks for the comment Bob but I could only see two boards on my machine; the motor controller and the programme selector. Nothing at rear right hand side or anywhere else. The D7 diode I replaced successfully is on the programme selector board immediately above the programme selector switch as shown in my photos.

[bob12241]

28 minutes ago, Cumbrian said:

Thanks for the comment Bob but I could only see two boards on my machine; the motor controller and the programme selector. Nothing at rear right hand side or anywhere else. The D7 diode I replaced successfully is on the programme selector board immediately above the programme selector switch as shown in my photos.

That board seems a little bit unpopulated to be a motor control board as well as the programmer and I dont see any heat sinks which is normal for motor speed controllers, I do notice that D7 is in the same power supply configuration though. If you dont have any power transistors on the board then you might have an inverter on the motor or as I said tucked in tightly in the corner at the rear. Anyway you are up and running thats the main thing.

[Conky]

Joined to say thank you @bob12241! 

Was moments away from paying £250 for a new machine over the weekend. £2.70 and some sloppy soldering ... we're back up and running! 👍 (And yes, I did trim the diode after soldering)

ebay item number 142130675458 for anyone interested. 

Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🍻

 

Edited October 26, 2022 by Conky

[jafooley]

Adding another model with the same problem to the list: WDA914401W

It was very difficult to access the PCB, I ended up breaking bits off and duct taping it back together. I wish there was more information on the clips and how it's put together, so it can be done less destructively.

I didn't want to wait for a new diode, so I scavenged one from an old battery charger. It wasn't a very close substitute (RL252-B) but I thought it was worth trying because the difference in voltage drop is small. The diode leads were a bit too fat for the board, so I had to work around that problem too.

Has been working fine again for a while now, thanks to OP.

[oschy]

Adding another model with the same problem to the list: WDA961431

Many thanks Bob.

 

[Rols]

Just want to thanks Rob for his D7 diode detective work. We fixed our machine for £12. Not a cat's chance in hell that we could have done it any other way, so thanks very much for your detailed post and saving a washing machine from the scrapheap.

[Whitegoodshelp]

Thank you all for taking the trouble to register just to thank Bob. This entire thread is a perfect example of the madness of replacing entire PCBs instead of repairing them. Virtually every one of these cases would have led to a washing machine being scrapped when all it wanted was a part costing a few pounds.

 

[bob12241]

Thanks Andy for your mention, it has me wondering how old some of these machines are now, as it has been nearly 4 years since my original post and Beko don't appear to be doing anything about it, or maybe they have an interest in doing nothing.

 

On a totally different topic, going back in time to your supporting the right to repair lobby, I have a colour laser printer which has just packed up, I rang the service line for a basic piece of information (I needed to remove the side panels without breaking the retention clips). They refused to help me BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE A SERVICE CONTRACT WITH THEM.  I hope that if the right to repair ruling happens then it will put an end to this type of behaviour. Disgraceful Kyocera !!!

[Whitegoodshelp]

Thanks Bob.

I am 99.9% sure Beko will never do anything about the issue. I'm also just as sure, that the right to repair thing is either smoke and mirrors designed to con the public into thinking something is being done, or its naively usless and doomed to failure. 

I think I posted a link before to my article on the right to repair regarding white goods appliances but not sure?

I believe that you cannot possibly have sustainable and repairable products inside capitalism.

Capitalism is all about constant and relentless growth and profits. Sustainable and repairable products, circumvent the ever growing and relentless need or desire to buy and consume more products. So it can only completely undermine capitalism - and the economy. 

The only thing that could work is a return to how things were in the 50s, where most people had and consumed very little. Most people didn't have a car or travel abroad, and most products and appliances were very expensive, but kept running for decades by a thriving repair industry. 

The people of today would never accept this until it's forced on them by catestrophic eco disasters. 

A bit deep but it's what I believe 😀

[Lynne]

Yet another machine fixed thanks to this forum! My machine had exactly the same symptom, no lights, and the same fix, replacing diode D7, which came from eBay for less than a fiver: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142130675458

The PCB model ended _09, not _08 as some of the images in here show and has a slightly different layout, but the diode and process to replace it were identical.

[Mink ette]

Thank you so much for putting this info up online, I followed Bob's guide and my washing machine is now working again! I made a step by step video for anyone finding the idea of pulling their washing machine apart daunting. It includes what tools you'll need and how to use them. (I got blocked by security by posting the YT link, so I'm trying again with spaces in the URL.)

Full instructions for Beko washer dryer pcb repair

[Whitegoodshelp]

Hello Mink ette. Thank you for your post, I managed to fix the link for you. That's an excellent video thank you.