BEKO WDX8543130W no lights on

[Steve Turner]

My washer dryer has stopped working completely – no lights on the front panel, no switches work. I called my local appliance repairer who assessed the situation as one of the three circuit boards was not working. However he felt unable to proceed with the repair without knowing which of the circuit boards had failed, and what had caused the failure. On that basis he felt the cost of repair would be more than the machine is worth. The machine is only just two years old – plugs, sockets, fuses etc all fine.

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Did he appear to check the washing machine thoroughly? Or did he just say that without delving much inside? It just sounds a bit vague saying it could be one of 3 pcbs. If it is a pcb I'd suspect the main board but a completely dead washing machine can have many causes and needs checking properly with a test meter Washing Machine Won’t Start

[bob12241]

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required.

Regards Rob

 

Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0

EDIT   Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.

 

[Steve1970]

On 08/03/2019 at 13:29, bob12241 said:

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required.

Regards Rob

Hi Rob,

 

Could you please send me the pics to s4stevie @ hotmail.com 

 

Cheers. 

[Diddikins]

On 08/03/2019 at 13:29, bob12241 said:

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required.

Regards Rob

Hi, we have this issue with that model of washer/dryer. Do you know which diode this is/do you have a picture?  Our washing machine stopped working mid wash and didn't drain. All the plugs, fuses, pipes and filters are fine, but the machine won't turn on. Thinking it's a PCB issue but of you found a diode that isn't working, ours could be the same too. My husband is an electrician so can probably check the diodes. You can email me on lydia.yip@live.co.uk. thanks 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Thanks for offers of help. It would be nice to have any photos on here though so they may help others as well.

[Dave10810]

Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault.

Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase  & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again!

Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Thanks for the info Dave.

[mmaniek]

I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I solder it to the board, but I bet it will work as gold. Thank you very much bob, not all heroes wear capes!

 

 

On 08/03/2019 at 13:29, bob12241 said:

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required.

Regards Rob

EDIT   Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.

 

 

 

[bob12241]

Nice to see that people are seeing this and saving megabucks on what is possibly a design fault that is raking it in for Beko.  I probably didn't post my pics as I should have done as Andy appeared to be unaware of them. Anyway all seems ok now, incidentally I had a machine engineer on to me a while back he had 3 duff pcb's, he found this problem on 2 of them. Likely for sale as refurbs now  .

 

Happy to help Regards Rob

[bob12241]

Hi Kev pics have been included in my posting as an update done a while back, if you need, get in touch I will email them to you also.

 

Hope you find them Regards Rob

[Joey12310]

bob12241 - Top work!

I had the same fault, quick and easy fix with the replacement diode (although I went with the same diode rating; if it faults again I will go straight back to check D7 as my first check).

A nice easy quick video on testing diodes should you require it:  

Thanks

Joe

 

[Deano]

The resoldering of the diode worked perfect!

 

Bought a USB powered soldering iron from Amazon for £6 and it's perfect for soldering electronics, bought a diode for £3, cheap repair, thank you!

[Chriis]

Bob, your a star!
I've had the exact same problem and after reading your post I soldered in a new diode and hey presto!....it's up and running again.   Thank you!

[joanne Boyd]

I think I've got the same problem, but my first problem is how to get the top off! none of screw drivers or allan keys are getting purchase. How do I get the top off?

[bob12241]

On ‎05‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 09:55, joanne Boyd said:

I think I've got the same problem, but my first problem is how to get the top off! none of screw drivers or allan keys are getting purchase. How do I get the top off?

I can't remember the type of screws fitted, I do remember it wasn't straight forward and had to route through my tools to find the right one.  You need to take the back cover off, not the top. The screws might have been what are known as Modulo screws which are normally used in the electrical industry, they are a cross between phillips and slotted screws. They can be undone by using a slotted or Phillips screwdriver that will catch enough to undo. Failing that they could have been Torx screws that appear similar to hex/allen screws but look more like a star, again you can undo by getting a slotted screwdriver in them that engages sufficient. Whichever you choose be sure not to ruin the head otherwise you will have to drill them out.

Torx bits and screwdrivers are cheap (get a cheap set from the £ shop or similar), but not so the Modulo screwdrivers as they tend to be vde rated, you can get them from Screwfix..

Regards Rob

[joanne Boyd]

Hi rob

Thanks for giving me this advice. I got a screw driver that fitted from my neighbour. It's a star head rather than a philips head. And, I've  given up trying to fix it, I'll get a man in, do the job properly 

Joanne 

[bob12241]

2 minutes ago, joanne Boyd said:

Hi rob

Thanks for giving me this advice. I got a screw driver that fitted from my neighbour. It's a star head rather than a philips head. And, I've  given up trying to fix it, I'll get a man in, do the job properly 

Joanne 

Be prepared, the majority of  repair agents can't be bothered to (or just can't)  work down to component level and a new power supply will knock you back £76 at the last time I looked it up (that's not from the dealers too), and he will want his money on top. Be prepared to say goodbye to £120. If they misdiagnose ( there are a lot of cowboys working for themselves, same as any trade though) you will still pay for the part and time, and go through it all again or scrap it. Shame you don't know anyone with the skills to have a look as it will come a damn sight cheaper, and if it's a misdiagnosis it hasn't cost as much. If you do I can talk them through it if needed on my personal email.

Regards Rob

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Yes the situation is that washing machine repair engineers are only ever taught to replace the entire printed circuit boards. There are no parts made available from the manufacturers to repair any PCBs. The only people that try to repair them are people like those who have contributed to this topic already who have an expertise or good knowledge of electronic circuitry's, and are prepared to try and source equivalent parts. Obviously this is not recommended for anybody who doesn't have expertise in repairing printed circuit boards. It is highly unlikely that any engineer would try to repair one, other than possibly re-soldering in a loose resistor or dry joint. But even then it is rare to find an appliance engineer who would do that other than maybe a local engineer who knows what he's doing.

[bob12241]

2 minutes ago, Whitegoodshelp (Andy) said:

Yes the situation is that washing machine repair engineers are only ever taught to replace the entire printed circuit boards. There are no parts made available from the manufacturers to repair any PCBs. The only people that try to repair them are people like those who have contributed to this topic already who have an expertise or good knowledge of electronic circuitry's, and are prepared to try and source equivalent parts. Obviously this is not recommended for anybody who doesn't have expertise in repairing printed circuit boards. It is highly unlikely that any engineer would try to repair one, other than possibly re-soldering in a loose resistor or dry joint. But even then it is rare to find an appliance engineer who would do that other than maybe a local engineer who knows what he's doing.

I totally agree with you, my comments regarding misdiagnosis were related to a few instances where I have seen blogs and the front control PCB was replaced instead of the main PSU board as an instance. Obviously they cannot carry a full compliment of spares for all manufacturers and sometimes the symptoms can be similar. I would never give a person advice that put them in danger and if I felt they weren't capable of following instructions I would advise them to seek professional help.

[MarkEnersen]

bob12241....your advice is now rescuing wash/dryers in Denmark too!  
Big big thanks from me, your solution worked perfectly on my Blomberg(BEKO) BWD384W0 with a GV7-2838360101 PCB.

regards
Mark

[Jbles]

Many thanks to bob12241

 

I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2

Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash. 

[Neil]

Thanks Rob, my machine experience exactly the same problem.

Your guide saved me at least £100. 

[Nick B]

Thank you very much Bob for your advice. My washer dryer is doing the same thing and upon removing the board, D7 is faulty. Top man, just waiting for the replacement. Cheers

[morosanu22]

Hello, i had the same problem with my washing machine , i replaced d7 , now is turning on but is not working properly! Wen i start a program it works a few second then is stopping( not turning off)  then again and again. Goes something like shaken. Anyone know what could be? Thanks!