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Thanks Andy. yes its good to be back. Its strange how it makes the noise at the beginning. I wonder if at the beginning maybe its pumping dry and there is not enough water in the tub before it starts pumping somehow and thats why its making the noise. Its a shame you cannot hear the noise on the video because it is quite loud in the kitchen when it does it, embarrassing as well because it sounds like a loud fart noise lol 😄

Hi. Welcome back Andy. It sounded Ok here but volume not very loud. After filling up a bit they always energise the pump and that sounds like the pump running. However, if there was a problem with the pump it should make the same noise each time it empties the water unless each other time it pumps the main motor is also whooshing around.

forgive me its not a washing machine its a whirlpool dishwasher problem (But I have seen others on here discussing dishwashers) and at the end of the day it is a washing machine lol 😄 - it makes a noise always at the start of the cycle but once the dishwasher is under way its quiet for the rest of the cycle . any ideas? whirlpool WFC3C33PFXUK UK model: whirlpool dishwasher strange noise (1).mp4

Old post but worth a reply. This piece of polystyrenne was supposed to have been removed upon installation of the machine. Used to get this very often but on Bekos too- folks so keen to get "going" with their new possession / contraption that they didn`t read the installation sheet!To answer the question: remove it and discard.

Hi, the black buttons you describe are TOCs (thermal overload cut-outs). It's unusual for them to be resettable. It's useful, but most of them have historically been one-shot devices like a fuse. When they trip, they are gone, and need replacing. The reason for this is that they don't usually trip for no reason. The cause always requires properly investigating. This is exactly what you have found. They have tripped again because something is overheating and needs fixing. I would also replace both TOC devices too, especially the one that looks overheated. I have an article on Whitegoodshelp that explains the possible causes for overheating, which include the main dryer fan not running, blockages, and no water running into the condenser - Washer dryer - dryer not heating

Baumatic BDI1485D4E integrated washer dryer not drying. I removed the top to get access to the heating bit of the machine. Ran the heating cycle but that bit remained cool (it says CAUTION HOT SURFACE). There are 2 connections next to the warning which have like a very small black button on them with 2 red cables coming off the spade connectors, I pushed both of them in and heard a click, I reseated the cables on that and noticed one was a bit black, like it had shorted, anyway when I started the drying cycle again it started heating, I could feel it. But after 5 mins it stopped heating again. Any ideas?

There are many brands of machines with a dismantleable tank. Boils down to 1)Korean (Lg, Samsung) 2)Chinese (loads e.g. Willow, TCL and 3 dozen more) and 3) Vestel (even more brand names e.g. Bush, Electra, Royal and dozens more) made machines from Turkey and 1 known Bosch model with very expensive parts ditto a Neff w/dryer I got roped into repairing that cost 500 quid to repair such as the hammering it received after the bearings failed - daft customer! I used to work mostly on the cheaper brands up to 300 quid of which looking on ebay uk there are many under that price. I should imagine you on your own as far as a decent service is involved should it crash out on you even when under warranty which is nearly always done by 3 rd party repairers and a long wait for parts.....out of warranty your in the lap of the Gods..

Sadly that's just about impossible now. Ebac is the only one I know of

P.S. if it is the chassis split under the suspension leg/s there was a repair bracket available at the time but now? Also because of its age the suspension itself is probably getting worn out so be warned. Think the whole suspension kit (both sides) last time I looked (a while back now as in several years) was about 79 quid but probably obsolete at a guess?

Either something in under the drum or I`d say the drum spider is cracked BUT that noise is usually much louder. It is also equally possible that there is a crack under the supension leg so the chassis base plate, under if memory serves me right, one (or both) of the suspension rubber mounts. This model series were famed for it.

No experience of this part (these contraptions all appeared after I retired) but looking at the photo i`d say you would either gently lever up the white tang in the middle and then pull the blue bit backwards at a guess. There again you might have to depress the center blue tang and then pull the blue connector block out but more likely to be the latter than the former.

Hi Andy. I think so, but hoover had the exact same fault on their soft-wave and new-wave washing machines. They had the same overheating at the door lock with the wires connecting to it baking and burning as far back as 2 or 3 inches. Sometimes the insulation on the wires melted completely exposing the charred copper wires. On the Hoover door lock though, the wires were connected to the door lock using exactly the same 13 amp tags that were on every other wire (including the heating element). That’s why I reasoned that the heat was generated inside the metal switch of the door lock that they were connected to. The hoover door lock in question was actually just a very small micro switch.

Very true. The connector block to the doorlock. My dodgy memory truimphs again! Was the actual tags inside the 3 inline block - the tags surface area was not large enough for the current causing the wires and block to frizzle. The heater wire terminals were actually different. Anyway that was all years ago now.

Hi Andy. I always thought it was the connections inside the door interlock that weren’t good enough, causing excessive heat that heated everything up right back to 2 inches of the cable. It could be the connectors, though they didn’t have the same problem with connectors on the heating element drawing nearly 13 amps. And of course if it was the connector, it’s still down to poor quality. The fact that it happened in the 1980s and still happened 30 years later is a disgrace.

In my experience at the time it wasn`t the actual door locks at fault it was the wire terminals going to it. The connector was not butch enough to take the current and so the wires over heated where their teminal block plugged into the interlock which gives the impression it was the door locks (the interlock) being at fault when it was infact it was the connector block. You could also say that many more models NOT listed this also occured and was a problem.

Bearings going kaput under 2 years olsd. I`ve had quite a few do that but not Zanussi. Though did have an AEG that did that (AEG is to all and tense purposes a slightly up market Zanussi -same company owned by Electrolux.) So why is this happening;? Ok, had this happen prematurely on Bosch, Curry`s Logik (a dismantleable tank unit), Hotpoints, Indesit and many others but not Beko and seldom Hoover (but they had plenty of other problems none -the-less just not premature bearing cock-ups! Problem as far as I sussed was no grease on the oil seal. Most but not all were sealed tank models so I had to cut the tanks in half to get at the drum (rendering the machine even more defunt) this was all purely just to see why. So no grease = friction worn oil seal = water gets through = nuked bearing you cannot do anything about. Since most if not all of these factories are all automated there`s no one to stick 2 fingers worth of grease into the rear tank bearing / oil seal area on the assembly line so the drum units are fitted dry and so by dry the meaning is without any lub - the actual bearings are all sealed having been bought in parts previously being greased but not the oil seals which is where the problem lies.....so much for automated factories then so looks and sounds very C21st but the basics are missed! Whether the tank unit is sealed or can be dismantled it is the same problem it even happened to my TCL 1400 except I didn`t let the machine get that far at 15 months old. I dismantled at the first sign it started squeaking on tumble and yes that was bone dry oil seal too. Plenty of gease on the seal and hub ring has solved the problem and now 8months on we are still ok and now out of warranty, 2years warranty but I doubt that means much to be frank which is why I repaired it myself rather than hang about for the repairers who I could almost guarantee would not have any part needed by the time they turned up. TCL oil seal if you ever need one (the bearings will be generic ones) order from China diect via ebay uk. I ordered 2 and inlc postage &packaging it was £8 something, if you bought one from FIXPART one oil seal is just over 40 quid = robbery - someone there has obviously got a MBA in business Management - you can take what that comment means for yourself! Always buy a machine you can dismantle the tank so you have a least have a fighting chance, conversely with a sealed tank you`re on a hiding to nothing (other than a massive bill).

Hi. I can't rule it out, but in my 40 odd years of repairing appliances, I don't think I ever fixed a fault by spraying anything with switch cleaner. Switch cleaner is more designed to clean potentiometers and switches inside where they are inaccessible, rather than these types of connections. To get the connector block off I would expect the unit it sits on would need to be removed from the top of the machine and pulled clear of the back casing. Have you seen any explanation of the error codes? I can't see any in my book, although to be fair it's very much out of date now.

Hi, I have been having issues with my bosch series 8 washing machine WAWH8660. The machine kept beeping with error code 00 and 81. I replaced the idos tray which seemed to work for a while. Then a few days later the same error. I opened the top of the machine and can see some dust on the wiring harness. I cleaned this from the top as I was unable to work out how to get the cable out. I would like to take the blue harness out and clean with contact cleaner but does anyone know how to do this? Thanks

Hi Julian. Ref your couple of years old Hotpoint making banging noise on spin. Yep most likely a drum / spider/ bearings problem. See if your drum feels loose relative to the plastic tank. If so we are all singing from same hymm sheet. This problem is pretty common as washerhelp mentioned. Your machine should be under 10 year free parts but not the labour (unless you`ve paid extra on an insurance - but then you`d remember that) and Hotpoints labour charge was/is 130 quid (but you would have to check). If the machine is not old might be worth exploring that option other than scrapping it. Could also be a concrete weight half hanging off the tank unit - not unknown. Unlikely to be suspension problems. Much more likely be the bearings or spider as already mention. Did have a similar machine to yours where the bearing tube is set in plastic and the plastic had split purely academic still a new tank unit. Note this machine of yours should have a plastic sealed tank unit so changing bearings is not going to happen. Let us know what you figured out in the end.

Hi. Yes I was told that by Ebac too. Unfortunately, appliances need to be designed with Which? tests in mind and it seems like Ebac designed for the customer. It shouldn't be necessary but a poor review from Which? is a disaster. Especially for a company like Ebac. I would guess that most people considering an Ebac are likely to be discerning and intelligent customers. Exactly the type of customer that would consult Which?

Hopefully they will fix the fault. Worn carbon brushes are very common, although many modern washing machines do not have them fitted any more. If they were the cause of your fault one or both should be very badly worn down or have a charred tip. Details on this help page Do my carbon brushes need replacing?

Update model is per the photo above - got the 4 big motor bolts off and detached the motor. After a quick amazon delivery can confirm that the bolts holding the carbon brushes in place needed a 5.5mm drive socket (not stocked in my local hardware shops). Carbon brushes now detached, waiting for the new ones to come in to see if they make it work again!

Hi. Usually there are only 3 places where the motor is attached though it's possible some could have 4. Normally you undo the 2 that are most accessible and the 3rd at the back is often not attached, but just pushed onto a stud on the tub motor bracket. Is yours the same as in the photo above or different? Could you upload a photo?

Hi trying to do the same repair to my machine - I've been able to disconnect the motor and identify the carbon brushes, but am really struggling with the bolt that is attaching them to the motor housing. A 6mm socket driver seems to slip and a 5mm doesn't seem to go on. I've ordered a 5.5mm from amazon - does any of this ring any bells? Thanks!

Thank you so much! I had a similar issue with a Blomberg LRF285411W (which is a rebadged Beko WDX8543...). Your post helped me to diagnose and have now got the dryer function 100% working again. By holding down "spin" and pressing "on" it booted the machine into diagnostic mode. Then I pressed "start" until it got to test 6 which span the dryer fan but then gave error E32. For me the issue wasn't that the cable into the connector was broken. The same cable was severed about 20cm further down where it had been getting pinched at a sharp angle. The machine vibrations eventually split the cable. I just had to replace that part of cable and now it's all good. Thanks again!