Beko WM74165W - Turns off once it fills with water

[Gazz57]

Hi

I have a Beko WM74165W washing machine. It's about 18 months old so 6 months outside the warranty period. Its has been a great machine these past 18 months, definitely one I would have recommended however at the moment it just turns off after I start a wash cycle. Once started the machine will fill with water to the normal level and will then just completely power off, no lights or power at all. It wont turn back on for a minute or two either, I assume its a safety feature but I'm not sure what the problem is.

I managed to get it into test mode. It originally showed E17 with was excessive foaming, this came from the repeated washes we put on before we realised there was a problem where detergent was added each time and must have built up. I ran a few rinse cycles which worked on cold water but again the machine cut out after 4 minutes on this but was enough to rinse the machine out.

Now when I go into test mode I get each time after pressing the start button:

1. E-- which I assume means no error code

2. 672 shows on the screen - I don't know the significance of this

3. the display flashes to show its working correctly

4. 004 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the right correctly

5. 005 shows on the screen and the drum rotates to the left correctly

6. 006 shows and the drum spins to maximum rpm correctly

7. 007 shows and one of the water valves opens in the drawer correctly

8. 008 shows shows and the other water valves opens in the drawer correctly

9. 009 shows and the drum fills with water. Here I thought the drum would reach a maximum value however it kept filling on the first go until I hit start to stop it. the water level got half way up the window, this may be normal but I wasn't sure? The second time in test mode I only let it fill up to over the bottom of the glass in the door and then pressed the start button to move on.

10. For a split second 010 shows on the screen before it moves onto showing 011 as if it bypasses 010. After 2 seconds of showing 011 the machine cuts power as it has been doing in a normal wash cycle.

I'm not 100% sure what should be tested at 010 and if this is the issue? or at 011 and this is the issue? From looking at other posts on other models I think this is the point at which the water should start to heat but I'm not getting that far to see does the door get warm.

Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated. Many Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

[Gazz57]

I haven't had any replies and after scouring the internet I cant find too many repair postings for my model so I can only assume not to many people have had problems to date. I'll keep updating in the hope I figure it out and it might help someone else.

So I've been having a look about my machine today, took the back panel off and tested the heating element with a multimeter hoping it was the heating element causing the machine to cut power on the 011 cycle. I've found a page on the internet that suggest this is the stage at which it will run a complete wash test in power mode.

As I mentioned before at 010 the machine goes straight onto 011 after a split second, again I think from what I have read 010 doesn't do anything anyway and it may just bypass this normally - maybe someone can tell me different??

After connecting and disconnecting a few things once I get to 011 on the display the machine now fills up with water to a certain level and then the power to the machine cuts out. Maybe there is a water level sensor that has failed? something else at this stage may be supposed to kick in and isn't causing the machine to knock out of power?

I'm still trying to test things but I'm not much further on. If I figure out more I'll update the post. Hopefully in the mean time someone more knowledgeable will be able to point me in the right direction.

 

[Gazz57]

Running a wash with the water temperature cold works fine, this must mean the problem is when the machine tried to start heating the water??

I've checked for resistance across the terminals of the plug. No circuit between the live and earth. Fairly high resistance between live and neutral, this suggests there is no short in the machine, right? I was thinking there could be a short in the heating element.

When I check the resistance across the element it's self I get a reading of 28 ohms, I'm fairly sure this is as it should be. I also get no circuit between live and earth again as it should be!

Could it still be the element???

 

 

[Gazz57]

Got a new element today and fitted, but the same thing is happening?

There is bound to be someone who could shed some light on this for me??

 

 

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Sorry for no earlier reply. I've not been getting some notifications. If there was a short on the element it should trip the electrics or blow the fuse. When you say it fills with water then stops, how long does it fill for? Most washing machines fill for about 10 seconds or so with one water solenoid to fill the sump hose and then switch to a second solenoid to flush in the detergent. If the second solenoid isn't working the washer will stop. However, to be honest it shouldn't cut the display board. If that's happening maybe there's a fault on the pressure switch or something inside the pcb. I wouldn't speculate on any more parts unless you can identify they definitely need replacing. 

 

[Gazz57]

Thanks Andy!

It works fine from start to finish on a cold wash but if you put a wash with any temperature it fills to the bottom of the door and then its lights out.

I took apart the display to test components on the PCB last night and I found three diodes working correctly (allowing current one direct but not in the other) and three not working correctly (allowing current in both directions) testing with a multimeter.

I've ordered replacements and will replace these by the end of the week, hopefully this is the problem! I'll keep you updated

Thanks again for the reply

 

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Please do. If it only faults when a temperature is set it could be a temperature sensor issue but if so it shouldn't turn off the display board it should produce an error code and abort the wash cycle properly.

[Gazz57]

The new element came with a new Thermostat so I know it isn't it, I've tested both anyway and are working. Where would I find other temperature sensors? But as you say it just shouldn't trip out completely.

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

The temperature sensor is commonly pushed inside or right next to the heating element. They usually use NTC sensors like these How to test an NTC thermistor

[Gazz57]

Hi Andy,

As promised I received the diodes in the post this morning. On taking the three diodes out of the board I tested them again, surprisingly two of the diodes tested fine when not soldered into the board the third one was still testing faulty. I replaced all three diodes anyway and again the two new diodes that replaced the one that tested fine outside of the board showed a reading in both directions when testing continuity. As I don't really have a great knowledge of electronics I presume some diodes can allow some small current in both directions... However I always thought they where only supposed to go one way??

Anyway... The third diode P6KE 62A seems to be the issue, the original showed the same reading in both directions and the new one didn't in and out of the board. I believe this one was the culprit. I have attached a photo.

All three replaced anyway and washing machine back up and running! Thanks for your help!

I hope this post helps someone else out too 

 

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

You know more about electronics than me as engineers aren't taught anything about these boards - only taught to diagnose and replace the whole board. There are some components that can change current flow or resistance when current is applied to them? Anyway like I said it's a dark art to us