Overfilling Washing Machine

[gaza007]

Hi, I have a Daewoo DWD-F1251s washing machine and I'm a bit stumped as to what's wrong with it!

The washer starts it's cycle as normal by selecting programme and then filling with water, however, when it get's to the normal filling capacity the water stops as normal then there is a pause and the water starts coming in again but this time fills the machine so it floods out.. I then have to switch it off and back on 'sometimes it still keeps filling' and then put it into drain mode, even then the washer continues to fill so has to be turned off at the tap. I have tried replacing the water pressure sensor with a new one but this didn't resolve anything.. My next move is to remove the Thermistor but I really wanted to avoid this as it's a full on job to strip the whole machine ''unless anyone knows of a better way''??

Is it possible that I may have missed something out? I don't think it's the water solenoids as they seem to be opening and shutting fine.

The washer is practically brand new.. no muck/dirt in the drain everything is gleaming!

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

I would get an engineer to look at it, it may be cheaper than guessing at parts to be frank. The thermister only deals with the temperature of the water during heating. It's a thermostat, which should have nothing to do with filling. It could be low insulation on a component allowing a path to neutral for the water valve but you need an insulation test meter to check for that. If you can't stop the water coming in by switching it off and have to turn the tap off it must be getting a live feed from somewhere or if it's switched on using neutral return (and therefore supposed to have a constant live feed) it must be getting a neutral from somewhere. Another explanation for a valve letting in water even when switched off is a jammed valve but that's not common.

[gaza007]

Thank you for your reply.. I have tested the Thermostat and it isn't that, someone suggested it may have been that and the machine was overfilling / letting water in to cool what it thought was an overheating machine.

I don't think it's the solenoids as they are opening and closing ok, something seems to open them but not resend a signal to close untill the machine has been switched off for a short period. I can only presume it is the programmer at fault now as there is little left to test which hasn't already been! And I can't seem to find a programmer for this machine anywhere??

Thanks again.

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Hello Gary: A modern washing machine can start to take in cold water in an overheating situation but it wouldn't be so rude as to flood your kitchen. In an overheating condition it should abort the programme, drain out the hot and take in cold at the same time - and then indicate an error code.

I would never replace a main programmer as a diy job as they are very expensive, and unless certain it's the fault - and the only fault - it could end up wasting money. You can't send them back. It could be a small air leak in the pressure system, or tubing which connects the pressure chamber to the pressure switch as that's how they measure the water levels. Once the right amount of water has gone in there's enough to force air up the tube and switch the pressure switch. With a small air leak the pressure is subsequently lost and the pressure switch switches back off causing the washer to fill again. Other than that I'd suggest getting an engineer in.

[gaza007]

I tried replacing the air pressure sensor 'without luck' and have examined the tube and can't find any leaks. I originally thought it was the pressure sensor and ordered the replacement part, when this one turned up, it looked as though it had previously been tried ''and maybe sent back??'' as the screw hole had the wear markings on it.

When the washing machine fills and starts to go through the cycle, the water stops as it should then there is a pause and the water starts to come in again but the front lcd display goes off! you then have to switch the machine off and back on again for it to come alive... would this be the pressure sensor?

Would it still be the pressure sensor if the display goes off completely after the machine starts to fill with water when it shouldn't?? You have to switch the machine off and back on again to select another programme or feature.

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

You didn't mention the front control panel going off before. Modern washing machines can present some very weird faults that defy logical fault finding. Many of them behave bizarrely if one of the parts has an insulation fault. One thing's for sure, I think speculative replacing of parts is a very unwise path to start on. DIY reairs are great if you can have a quick look and can see an obvious fault such as worn carbon brushes, a broken drive belt, a faulty connection etc. but when faced with strange symptoms - and everything looks OK - it will probably be cheaper to get an engineer to diagnose it. Replacing parts is a long and expensive process. The trouble is that you quickly get sucked into a battle, a challenge, which most men find hard to pull out of and admit defeat ;-)

Even many domestic appliance engineers are often reduced to speculative fitting of parts these days. I know many of them will just order one of everything and hope to cure some faults. These engineers are not genuine experts, they have to fix too many diverse types of appliances and too many different makes to ever become experts, but my point is that if even engineers employed to repair appliances and doing so on a daily basis commonly just speculatively replace parts it shows how difficult it can be to accurately diagnose some faults these days.

[gaza007]

Would a blown capacitor cause the problem?? looks like one has gone on the board!

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Has it definitely blown, or just got black soot round it? Most pcbs have components with black soot round them which can look like something's blown but it can just be dirt and carbon dust attracted by the heat. If blown, it's possible another component has blown it. I would think the washing machine needs checking with an insulation test meter.

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