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Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.

Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!

Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.

Definitely tie it up, if you get a partially blocked sink trap, the weight of water backing up the drain hose is likely to make it droop if it is not secured. Had that happen with my dishwasher years ago after we installed a new kitchen. I now have the drain hose secured by a cable tie over a cupboard hook just below the worktop. If the smell doesn't completely go after doing the maintenance clean, you could either use an oxygen bleach (eg Vanish), or a laundry sanitiser product with your regular detergent, or else use a powder detergent that has oxygen bleach in it (most powder detergents do as standard), either of which will kill bacteria in your wash and help clean the machine and rid it of smells.

Late, but I can answer this if you are still curious, because I had the soap dispenser apart on my machine about 10 years ago due to a leak and it not dispensing conditioner (all caused by mould). If anyone gets the same problem, I would recommend using a steamer to clean the compartment rather than taking it apart. The two inlets nozzles form water jets, there's an air gap to three channels that feed the shower holes above each section of the draw, which the jets at the back squirt into, the left jet feeds the right channel, right jet feds left channel, and when both solenoids are open the two crossing jets merge squirting out straight into the centre channel. Electrolux calls their lid the "water conveyer", the bottom of the gap between the inlet nozzles and the water conveyer channels is open, allowing excess water to flow back out of it into the back of the dispenser compartment straight into the drum, bypassing the draw. The blanked off inlet is almost certainly to feed into a fourth channel that feed water into unused holes above where the bleach compartment would be, likely towards the back of the fabric conditioner section on a UK draw. A partial blockage caused by mould in one of the two nozzles at the back of mine was the cause of the leak, it divert the jet and I think caused it to spray over the side of the draw and find its way out of the front and run along the bottom of the plastic facia where the control board sits. Nowadays, I leave the draw open between washes, so the mould problem has gone away.

hi there - when you have sorted out the pipes in the right direction find the hottest and longest wash you can find on your washing machine (or select 'drum clean' or maintenance clean so machines have built in) and run that without any washing in the drum and no detergent or fabric conditioner - the 90'c long wash should hopefully kill all the smelly bacteria and get rid of the damp smell. After the wash leave the porthole door open so the machine can dry out (if fact always leave the door ajar after every wash in the future if you dont already) and wipe the rubber door gasket dry . For the future dont leave damp washing in the drum, as soon as its done its wash take the washing out of the drum immediately for the drier / clothes horse / outdoor line. and do the maintenance (or long hot wash or drum clean programme) at least once a month without any washing in drum and no detergent and fabric softener - eventually the musty damp smell should dis-appear . good luck.

Hi Roscoe. Yes the drain hoses are badly installed. It's possible that dirty water from the sink could run down the drain hoses into the machines. I would loosen both the washing machine and dishwasher's drain hose connections on the U-bend and turn the spout that the hoses push onto around, so that the spout points upwards instead of down. You will need to pull more of the drain hoses through. The drain hoses need to go up 3 or 4 inches before going down and will most likely need to be tied using string or cable-ties. Ideally the end of a drain hose should be like a shepherd crook that goes up, around and then down. That makes it impossible for any water going down the sink to get up, over and down the drain hoses.

Those thermal catches are really infuriating, especially when you realise you left something out a few seconds after hitting the start button and have to wait two, to three minutes to put it in and continue the wash. I miss the instant lock on the Hotpoint my parents had during the 80s and 90s, never had any problem with the locking mechanism, it was a fully mechanical cable operated lock, with the door release button on the control panel and a "pecker" that pressed against the belt on the drum pulley, so the sprung plastic "beak" would pivot if the belt was moving allowing the cable sheath to move so that the cable wouldn't pull open the door catch, and I think it also had a mechanical pressure linkage for water level. It would only open when the drum was stationary and the water was below the door as I recall, even if the power was off. Ironically the machine was microprocessor controlled. There's an illustration of an instantaneous door lock as used in Electrolux brands as well as for the various other washing machine components in https://tds.electrolux.com/others/599/376/782EN.PDF Uses a solenoid and a ratchet mechanism and requires two triacs to operate it.

I did test these two relays this morning, and there was continuity between the two terminals on both relays, which indicated that the relay was in a closed position. One relay was showing 0.0Ω, and the other one was something like 35MΩ... I tapped it slightly a few times with my screwdriver, and there was no longer continuity between the two terminals. The actual part number is GT-1A-12D. I just ordered a couple of new relays with the same spec and size, and I am hoping this will rectify my issue. I'll report back tomorrow.

That’s what usually happens, and it causes main fuse to trip. The element is only stopped from touching the casing if the heater by powdered insulation which can break down. Also if the element t gets hit by something that can cause it.

I would try a very hot wash cycle using sodium percarbonate (aka oxygen bleach), which reacts with water to make hydrogen peroxide, and is also one of the main ingredients used in stain remover, and should be available quite cheaply on amazon and ebay. As far as I recall from looking up msds a few years ago, some of the commercially available washing machine cleaners contain sodium percarbonate as their main active ingredient, and some also have TAED, in addition to that, which converts the hydrogen peroxide to peracetic acid, which is used as a biocide. Mild acids, such as citric acid and acetic acid (vinegar) are also supposed to be very effective at killing mould and bacteria. As I recall one of the commercial products contained citric acid and maleic acid (not to be confused with malic acid) maleic acid I believe is used as a corrosion inhibitor, probably to protect the aluminium spider. I think the product was sold more as a cleaner/descaler. I use a large scoop of anhydrous citric acid on a 95°C wash cycle to get rid of the scale in my washing machine. Some washing machines have a drum cleaning cycle that spins the drum at low speed to help clean it. As yours is probably an Electrolux, if it doesn't have that, then you might possibly be able to use the leak test program in diagnostic mode after filling, then heating the water first (or pausing a 95C wash shortly before it pumps out), although as I recall it is a very short program.

So an update on this. Since my sister returned from her break she's been in touch with Samsung and their advice was that the machine needed to be recalibrated as this cleared most problems of this type! So Samsung talked her through the process, no idea what was done or how, and she says the machine has been working fine since she did it. Hopefully it's worked and saved her further expense and me rolling my sleeves up again. Thanks all the advice from both Andy's"! 👍

This is a better diagram.

Thanks for the links you posted Andy. I'm more knowledgable now on which hose/pipe is which and where to look for the pressure system. Will have to wait for a few days now as my sisters away until nearer the middle of the month but will take a better look at things and report back. Thanks for the good advise.

Hi Derek. No that's not the pressure system. That looks more like it's connected to the recirculation pump and is the hose that is used to pump water back to the top of the drum. I'm not aware of any faults that a blockage there would cause as it would just stop water being recirculated. The smaller dimensional hose at the bottom right that goes into a white plastic tool looks more like the pressure tubing. Check out these 2 articles which will help you understand how it all works Common faults on washing machine pressure system - How does a washing machine control the water levels?

This is an absolutely invaluable thread that is still helping ppl 4 years on from the original post.... Full marks to the OP, Bob, and Mr Whitegoodshelp Andy for the forum. 👍👍👍

Another success with the replacement diode D7, this time on a Beko WDIX7523000 washer dryer. Hopefully the repair will last but a massive thanks to Bob12241 for his brilliant instructions anyway. The machine has had very little use but is, of course, out of warranty. Once again, a couple of quid spent instead of £79 for a new PCB. What a result!

Hi there. Yes I used to carry touchup paint in case I accidentally chipped customers washing machine. This was a very long time ago when manufacturers were very helpful. I would be quite surprised if it's still available but it could be. Alternatively you would have to try and match it up at somewhere like Halfords or similar who sell spray paint for touching up cars. Replacing the drum bearings on a Hotpoint washing machine is a very big job, and one I used to despise. I can't imagine myself replacing them five times on the same machine. In fact, to be honest I've never heard of bearings going more than twice on any washing machine. I can only assume that something about the way you are doing it (including the replacement parts) may well account for them not lasting very long. That is, unless it's washing for a family of 10 or 11 🙂 When you replace the drum bearings on one of those washing machines you always need to replace the drum spider too. I was told right back in the early days that Hotpoint said this was necessary, otherwise the bearings would fail again. It would be interesting to know if you always replace the drum spider? I would also never use non-genuine bearing seals. Even the genuine ones are rubbish, so I'll can only imagine that cheaper copies would be even worse. And ultimately the main cause of drum bearings failing is failure of this seal letting water inside..

I also used to do minor repairs on Tv's whilst working at a large multi chain hotel. These had soldered spring links which were thermal fuses, sometimes these would melt then trip the power to the TV. In order to work on them straight away and ensure they were discharged we would short the capacitors with a screwdriver, one loud crack and then they were safe.

I don’t know if you’ll see this, but I have only created this account to thank bob12241 for his advice regarding a Beko washer/dryer having no power, specifically regarding replacing the D7 diode. I have literally no experience in electronics but I bought a cheap soldering kit and a diode (watched some YouTube videos as well) and now I have a washing machine that works. You are an absolute legend! You saved me a lot of money that I don’t have. You have my sincerest thanks, Mike

Anyway, we've checked the drain hose and there aren't any blockages there. We've put the washing machine in its place. A bit tight but the washer isn't touching anything. The only thing that worries me is that there's a ventilation vent and sometimes can get a bit cold. Not freezing cold though. Is it alright for the washing machine to live in a cold area or should we block this vent? I know that some people keep washing machines in garages. I think I must've selected rinse hold then cause I've done several loads since then without any problems. Stupid me for creating a problem where there wasn't any problem.

Not a question, this is a result that I found that might help someone. I have the above washer dryer that wouldn't fill when a programme was started, the drum turned as if in a cycle. This would happen with any programme that I turned it onto. I was at my wits end and nearly was thinking of buying a new machine. I then remembered somewhere about resetting the machine memory by pressing the 'Start/Pause' button continuously. I watched the LED light cycle through green then amber then back to green again. When I started a programme again the water filled as normal. I don't know if this works for other makes of machine. So again: 1. With the washing machine on, press and hold the 'start/pause' button and watch the LED light cycle through green then amber then back to green again. 2. Start your programme as normal. I hope this can be of use to someone, I'm not sure if this is the right place in this forum to put this, or if this has been posted on this forum before, apologies if this is so.

Have you tried reducing the spin it really helped for me. Now spin at 800.. higher the spin the more lint was over the clothes. Higher the spin was like it was shredding the clothes. So washed everything with 800 spin then tumbled it and it reduced lint loads

Hi Markn, I had the same issue till I found out that you have to first unscrew the black box from the side with these two screws:

So I just signed up to echo the numerous posts covered in the last 8 pages and feel free to skip but heres my story and thanks... Firstly I want to say thank you to @bob12241for the fix and sharing the results of his hard work. My second and equally profound thanks to @jonboyukfor making it almost (Ill get to that) idiot proof and so easy to follow with the numbered instructions and photos. To both I would be happy to bounce something to pay for a drink or contribute to any registered charity in view of the fact you have saved me a minimum of circa £140 vs machine bought for £382! Now for the story - My following machine - Beko WDIY854310F White Built-in Condenser Washer dryer, 8kg/5kg bought in Sept 2019 literally went dead a fortnight ago. No display no sound no nothing. Usual basic checks of socket/fuse all working fine. Engineers scouted and cheapest local call out was £66 thats not factoring any parts additional works etc hence my estimate above. There was suggestion it could be a mains filter (from one engineer) and then need of a new board (from another) - fair shouts given they had not come by. So I tried scouring the net and and diy posts and bless the admin of this site and google for directing me here... After reading all 8 pages of posts it sounded like I was not alone, so I figured why not have ago given I had most of the bits. I ordered the suggested diode (which seems in short supply) of an auction site (£2.40)! So armed with all I needed and a bank holiday courtesy of the Jubilee, I set to it. The biggest issues I had were getting the board/casing out, theres a slight bit of careful manipulation required. And then desoldering the diode (still not sure why maybe my soldering iron tip/temp maybe just me having an off day). Tested the D7 (after removed) and dead! New (prechecked) on and continuity tests looked good (I am very basic/amateur). Fingers crossed and all repackaged and positioned and moment of truth... wait nothing ... really what **** now what... recheck the basics and a big phew... the plug was not fully engaged in the socket. D'oh (almost idiot proof)... ok lets try again.... and BINGO!! So for the want of a £2.40 diode (I know it can be found a lot cheaper) Beko nearly made me fork out hundreds! Add to it the new board will also have the inferior component likely to repeat the issues in another couple of years! Apologies for the long post but sooo happy I just had to share and pass on my thanks And if BEKO stumble across this (here is another customer lost) - shame on you for not fixing this inherent fault due to a substandard component which I am considering sending back with a cover letter!

Yeah I always sort my washing by colour ie lights, darks, bedding, towels and tea towels separate. I can deal with the visual side of the lint on clothes, my main issue is the big clouds of it flying in the air and landing on everything, I understand I’m never going to eliminate lint completely, I can deal with a certain amount but this is just astronomical. I’m going to go through LG and see how much they quote me to look at it.

I fully understand, and I do appreciate that money is tight these days for most people and things are getting really bad, but I do disagree that it would be a waste of money. In the sense that if an engineer tests the washing machine (properly) and states there is nothing wrong with it at all, then it has eliminated one of the causes, and advanced the process of finding the cause of the problem. However, whether the engineer could be trusted to test the washing machine and fully understand the nature of the issue is another matter.

Hi Andy, I’ve seen that article before and tried pretty much everything they have suggested. I am currently washing all my clothes on the gentle cycle now with a less aggressive spin but I’m worried the damage is already done to these clothes. I’m still running everything through the tumble on refresh with no heat to trap some of the lint but getting it all off is proving difficult. I’m going to check some of the M&S clothes and get in touch with them aswell. I don’t know who else would know anything about this issue.

Well I’ve just email LG I’ll see what they say. My machine is out of warrantee but it’s something they should still look into. Also some of my children’s clothes are from M&S so I may aswell get in touch with them too.

Right so this is a long shot and I don’t know if it’s actually working in the long run but visually I feel like there is a difference. I recently bought a tumble dryer and I have been running small loads in it on the air only setting ‘refresh’ with no heat. If you remember the state of these blue pyjama bottoms recently, well I’ve been using a smaller amount of washing detergent, a tablespoon worth, letting it air dry and then putting the stuff in the dryer afterwards on the refresh mode with a dryer sheet until the lint trap isn’t really collecting a lot of lint. And I think the difference in the photos speaks for itself. The bottom pic is a photo of the lint from the trap from two tiny loads of my children’s clothes. Which I thought was quite a lot considering the amount of clothes that went through the tumble dryer. I still think the carpet is one of the issues so I will be replacing that too but I think if the dryer can get the existing lint from the clothes it will change my life.

Yeah I’ll just chuck in a small load of old clothes. I’m going to get some aspirin tomorrow and try it. I have lint rollers galore, the traditional tape sort of one and the reusable ones that you can rinse but unless I do it on absolutely every piece of clothing it just transfers everywhere anyway ie on the sofa, bedding.😩

I will give that a go, I have a few brushes I could try. I’ve also used a rubber reusable lint roller on it previously and it picked up so much lint. My in laws live two doors down and they do not have this issue, they had a different style carpet from a different shop more recently than mine and they do not have excess lint. My mother in law thinks I’m going crazy, no one believes me how bad it is.

This is a very frustrating problem clearly. And at least three people can't get rid of it. I just re-read the whole of this thread again. It's a struggle to think of any possible cause that would link all three cases. At least one of them is not a washer dryer, and a washer dryer can cause dry fluff and dust to drop into the drum especially if it is not used very frequently. At least one of them has had the same problem in two different houses, and with at least two different washing machines, so all of the evidence implies that there is no fault on the washing machines. That just leaves two possibilities. That the washing machines are being used in a particular way that allows this problem to occur, or that the fluff and lint is not coming from the washing machine or laundry at all. I just going to go over my thoughts again and spell everything out as best as I can. I hope no one takes this as being patronising. I just want to try and summarise my advice so far. I would expect that even if the lint and fluff was getting onto the laundry from an external source then a washing machine should be able to get rid of it as long as it is being used a hundred percent correctly. Some washing machines are actually not very good at washing. Which? often give very poor scores to washing machines because they are rubbish at washing. So it's possible that if someone has a particularly difficult problem and they have a washing machine that is not very good at washing it may not be able to cope with it. So one thing I would suggest is that anybody with this problem have a good look at Which? washing machine reviews to see if it has been tested by them and what results it got. If you are not a which member and you are suffering with this issue please post your washing machines brand and model number and I can have a look to see if there is a review available which may or may not be useful. So as I said before a few times, anyone with this problem should ensure that they are not overloading the drum, and by that I don't mean either putting anything in. On the contrary laundry doesn't get washed is clean if there isn't enough laundry in the drum to be constantly rubbing against each other. So drum needs to be filled reasonably full in order to be economical and efficient. When I say overloading I am referring to negligently overloading. That is cramming the drum so full that the whole of the laundry just revolves in one big lump. There needs to be space inside the drum so that when the drum turns, and the laundry is taken to the top of the drum it can fall from the top. I've posted a link to a much more detailed explanation on loading the drum at least twice previously in this thread. After overloading, it's essential to be putting the laundry on the proper wash cycle that is indicated on the wash labels and not to engage any options that cut down the wash time. So for example if they are cottons and the label says to wash it 40° cotton cycle then that's the cycle it should be washed on. Even if this cycle takes two or three hours it should be stuck to. The wash cycles these days do take a long time because of restrictions in the amount of water and energy that modern washing machines are expected to use. In order to compensate for being more environmentally friendly they have to wash for much longer periods of time to get the same results. They do have quick wash programs and options but essentially they are next to useless unless you are putting something in there that is virtually clean anyway. So any options that cut down the amount of time taken will compromise the wash result. It may be perfectly okay for many people but if you have got a specific issue with laundry not coming out of the washing machine totally clean and covered in lint and dust you need the washing machine to work as hard as possible Then finally we have the detergent. Make sure that you use a good quality powder detergent. My wife uses surf and has done for years. But again, try checking on Which? reviews. They also review lots of detergents and test them thoroughly (why subscribe to Which?) At the end of the day this problem is either something to do with the washing machines (either some weird fault or the way that they are being used) or not. So it's essential to eliminate the way they are being used as part of the process of getting to the bottom of it. If you try everything I've suggested and still have the problem then at least you have completely eliminated several of the possible causes but hopefully you might find it makes a difference. A final suggestion would be that if you have family or close friends that do not have this problem maybe it might be possible to have them wash something a few times consecutively to see if the issue remains or disappears?

Hi John2005, I checked ebay and found the diode first on the listings at £1.80 each. A little dearer but still cheap for the repair. You can search for any Schottky diode rated at 100v 2A in the same package (inline). It is also on Amzon delivered Oct 7th for £1.85 and £3.35 pack of 5 delivered Oct 7th also. Whilst they state the delivery time I have found that they generally tend to be a little quicker than that. If you were to book an engineer then you could have similar waiting time and then they would have to order any component that needs to be replaced, guessing at 4 or 5 weeks overall. If you go for a higher rated diode then the packaging may be slightly bigger and then you could have problems mouinting it plus the leads may not go through the holes. Regards Rob

Hi to all, Thanks to Bob I managed to find the same problem on my washer-dryer Beko ProSmartInverter WDR7543121S which was about 32 months old. The problem occurred when my washer was disconnected from water supply and my wife tried to start it... after that washer just didn't started again Luckily I had a Multimeter with a diode testing function ( which I never used it) and the problem was easy to find. I tested all diodes on the board D6 and D7 were faulty (D6 is 5A 100V). D6 showed faulty on the board but when I took it off it looked fine, anyway I ordered and replaced both, washer is working fine. Such a shame these days nobody wants to repair anything, it is all about consuming and the parts have some crazy prices... Thanks Bob!

Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob

bob12241 should be given some kind of knighthood or award or something. 17th December 2020 and his original post is STILL helping fix Beko Washing machines. Mine died. I followed bobs advice and posts. And now my washing machine is working again. I've made an imgr album containing photos from my experience. https://imgur.com/gallery/yMotcyY Bearing in mind that I haven't soldered anything ever, and I was able to fix my machine.

My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted the inner cover making sure the door latch was under the cover and drilled into retaining lugs with a 2mm diameter drill (not too deep). This is important to stop the lugs from splitting) I fixed the cover with thin wood screws and a washer. Success.

In case anyone needs to order replacement diode: Supplier Farnell, Item Code 2849663 Description: STPS2H100 SCHOTTKY RECTIFIER, 100V, 2A, DO-204AL

Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.

Fixed!.... I decided to take a gamble and order a new Washing Machine PCB Board, this is a black box of tricks that is connected directly too and runs the motor. One thing I noticed with the defective PCB Board is that when I span the motor spindle by hand it offered some resistance but if I unplugged it from the board it rotated freely, however with the new board fitted and plugged in the spindle span freely..perhaps a useful test? Fitting the new PCB board was simple just 2 screws and 4 plugs but at a cost of £100 ..was intending to send it back if it didn't work.

Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not enough it didn't register with me that that was the problem I have attached the part that was replaced. It's a part I cleaned from underneath but didn't think the inside was all clogged up. Little did I know. Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Gary

Thanks so much for helping - I found the casing was stuck in place with strong foam sticky tape - hard to get out but with someone tilting the machine back for me it went back so much easier and thankfully the machine has now has power after replacing the diode - so thanks very very much

Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back to the repairers showing them the website and giving them the spare diodes. While I was there, they opened up another circuit board they's ordered for a broken BEKO and lo and behold it was the same circuit. They thanked me (even though I have done them out of some business!), but said that they only replace circuit boards so they can guarantee the parts for 12 months. I cannot thank this forum and Bob12241 enough for this very cheap fix. It now gives me a bit more confidence not to throw things away when they are broken, but try and have them fixed at the component level. I just hope more people find this fix and save a whole load of money and BEKO washing machines live a lot longer.

Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob

Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob

Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241

Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.

I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!

Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing