frugaldougal Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi my washing machine's drum is not turning. It fills and drains ok, but is fairly silent when it's trying to turn/spin. It's about 5 or 6 years old. Haven't checked anything so far other than the drum resistance which seems normal. From what I've read it could be the motor and/or brushes? The other thing worth noting is that it's occassionally not spun clothes very well (ie still wet) Any help would be much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin Whitegoodshelp (Andy) Posted March 6, 2012 Root Admin Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 You need to read this first, it's everything I can think of to advise on the problem of when a washing machine drum won't go round or spin Need a repair or spare parts? Book a Repair | Buy appliance spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed) Warning: Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wightowl Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Ref: Candy model GOFS272/L-80 7Kg and similar belt drive washing machines. General approaches (for the above Candy model) for the technically adept: If short of time: 1. Check the door interlock switch is working. 2. Remove all pets and children from the room. 3. Remove the back panel. 4. Run a light wash cycle while observing the motions of the motor, belt, pulley wheel, pulley wheel centre bolt (which normally rotates with the pulley wheel) in relation to the movement, if any, of the inner drum. Locate and replace the failing component. If there is more time: 1. Get out the manual, or download it for reference. 2. Check the door interlock switch is working normally by observing its continuous (non-pulsing) LED on the dash. Replace if necessary. 3. Drain the machine fully and check the coin filter for blockages. On the Candy the drain and filter is located at the bottom of the front. This is supposed to be done every month. However we found only one hair clip after 22 months. Check the manual for the method. 4. Switch off the machine and UNPLUG it at the mains for safety. 5. Slide out the machine so the back is accessible. 6. Remove the back panel to view the motor, pulley wheel, and drive belt. 7. If the belt has a MultiVee construction, note its exact position on the small motor pulley wheel. 8. The Candy has an elasticated MultiVee belt which can be removed by gently pulling the left hand straight part of the belt towards you while slowly rotating the large pulley wheel clockwise. The belt will slowly turn off from the large pulley wheel. Other machines may have a drive belt tensioning system to be released to allow removal of the belt. 9. Check the belt and replace if necessary. A Candy drive belt is currently £13 10. The Candy has a chrome head bolt in the centre of the large pulley wheel. 11. On the Candy you require a Torx T4 bit to remove this bolt by turning hard counter clockwise (looking at the bolt) while holding the inner drum still. 12. Remove and examine the pulley wheel, especially for worn teeth in the centre. Replace if necessary. Note that spindle types vary and not all have teeth. A new plastic Candy pulley wheel currently costs £10. 13. Note the position and orientation of any electrical connections to the motor, and unplug them. 14. Remove the motor and place upon old newspaper on a table. If removal is problematic then carefully use a cold chisel or jemmy as a lever. 15. The Candy has a motor using two carbon ‘brushes’ which pass electricity to the rotating inner coils via a ring of copper commutators (contacts). The brushes wear out in three years or so depending on use. Brushes can also burn and become unreliable. Another type of motor is the Induction motor which has no brushes. 16. Locate the brushes pressing against the commutator ring and unscrew the brush housings. 17. Consider replacing the brushes when less than 5mm of carbon remains. Candy brushes are currently £12 each (£24 the pair, always replace in pairs). 18. Re-assemble. 19. If you still haven’t located the fault consider plugging it in and watching the components while in operation as suggested in the ‘Short of time’ routine. 20. Other causes may be electrical and are beyond the scope of this text. Electrical work should be undertaken by a qualified engineer with some indemnity insurance. In my specific case the inner drum was not turning properly. It rotated a few inches then slipped back. The faulty component was a poorly designed 280mm diameter plastic pulley wheel driving a 500mm drum through a 16mm spindle with 16 teeth only 1.5mm deep. That is steel teeth mating with small plastic teeth. The failure occurred after one year ten months. No surprise there. Hope this helps. Wightowl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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