Smacur Posted October 27, 2024 Posted October 27, 2024 Hi, I have a WF90F5E5U4X/EU I originally got a 5E error code, I checked the filter and it had some stuff in it, cleaned and tried again, still 5E stopping and not draining. Since then I have checked the drain hose, the fill hose, I have taken the drain/recirc assembly off and cleaned the lot, this didn't solve the problem. I still got a 5E error code. I've now replaced both pumps (one was looking like it got very hot as it had made the inside of the case very brown). Now I get no error code but still no draining. I test this on the test cycle in the diagnostics menu where you can choose to test the recirc pump (this makes a noise) and the drain pump (I get a little click and nothing). I'm running short of ideas now, please help!
Smacur Posted October 27, 2024 Author Posted October 27, 2024 Update: I have tested the resistances of both pumps from the board, both at 250Ohms which is as expected, when I put a demand on the recirc pump I get 240V AC, when I put a demand on the drain pump I get fluctuations around 18V. The control board is not putting out the right voltage required to get the drain pump to work. So my question now is which relay do I need to replace that would be the one supplying the drain pump?
Root Admin Whitegoodshelp Posted October 28, 2024 Root Admin Posted October 28, 2024 Hi there. Unfortunately don't have access to that information. The manufacturers don't publish any details about the PCBs at all. Engineers are supposed to just replace the entire board if they diagnose there is a fault. I would trace the wires to the pump back to the PCB and take off the appropriate connector. From there you should be able to check the resistance from the connected to the pump, which obviously should be very similar to the 2500 ohms. I would also physically examine the cables all the way back just in case there is a partial breaking one of the cables. If everything is perfectly okay, and the connections inside the connector block all seem okay then obviously you have to suspect a fault on the PCB but as I said, there is no information on them at all. I'm presuming that it is leaving the washing machine full of water? Need a repair or spare parts? Book a Repair | Spares4Appliances WARNING: Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.
Smacur Posted November 2, 2024 Author Posted November 2, 2024 So we have a conclusion, I got 250 Ohms from the loops down through the pumps, which is the same as the pumps on their own, so I know the wiring is good. The voltages were measured and indicated that the drain pump wasnt getting the expected voltage. I've since bought a refurb board off ebay and now the provided voltage is as expected ~240v. The machine now works!
Root Admin Whitegoodshelp Posted November 2, 2024 Root Admin Posted November 2, 2024 Nice one. Its always a gamble replacing a pcb but after elimination of other suspects it seemed fairly likely to be the culprit. Need a repair or spare parts? Book a Repair | Spares4Appliances WARNING: Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.
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