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My washer/ drier indicated F11 code shortly after starting a cycle. We have cleared filter and hoses and we ordered a new water pump .  We checked the resistance on old and new pump this read 280 ohms. The error code appears after the installation of the new water pump. What else can we check

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  • Root Admin

Hello there. Error codes never indicate that a specific part needs replacing. It would be great if they did, but they are almost always just a general point in the right direction for someone who understands how they work to start investigating. The F11 code for example on many Indesit washing machines implicates the pump, but it's easily misunderstood because it says "pump failure". You would think that "pump failure" means that the pump needs replacing, but they just mean that it has failed to pump out the water or at the very least it thinks it's failed to pump out the water (more on this later).

So this fault could mean anything from a faulty pump, to broken wiring and connections somewhere, or even something jamming the pump or a blocked filter. Or, like many error codes, it could be completely misleading.

The only way the washing machine software can tell whether the water has been pumped out or not is through the pressure system. When the water has gone, the pressure switch resets and sends a signal that the water has been pumped away. But of course, if the pressure system is faulty, it's possible that the software never receives the signal that the water has pumped out, and wrongly thinks there is a problem pumping the water away. The way we can differentiate this is relatively simple. If the pump has a problem, then it is highly likely to have failed to pump out the water.

So if you get an error code implicating a pump fault, and your washing machine is full of water that has not been pumped away, then you can be fairly confident there is an issue somewhere that is preventing the pump from working. But on the other hand, if you get an error code implicating pump failure, but the washing machine has pumped away the water perfectly okay, then it's unlikely to be anything to do with the pump.

So with a pump failure error, the first thing is to check, is the pump running? And then the second thing to check is for physical obstructions and blockages, and then the resistance on the pump. Basically any resistance reading is likely to indicate that the pump is okay, because in my experience, the pump's field coil is either perfectly okay, or it is completely open circuit.

So if we take the error code that's just a guide somewhere to start it's necessary to try and establish exactly what is wrong without taking the error code too literally. Is the pump running on the spin cycle? Is the washing machine pumping the waterway okay or is it leaving a full or half a drum full of water?

Note that with some washing machines, the pump does not run when there is no water inside the washing machine. This is a problem because it means the only way to test it thoroughly is to put more water in the washing machine, which of course would get stuck inside if the pump genuinely is not pumping away the water. However, my article below contains instructions on how to drain a washing machine if that becomes necessary.

So if you still feel that the problem is to do with the pump not pumping the water away my article below gives general advice on troubleshooting that.

Washing machine not pumping water away

 

 

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Andy thank you for your prompt reply .  I had purchased new pump but I guess the old pump was okay . The machine has drained or not filled in the little time any cycle runs before the F11 code stops the machine .

 

I can’t see any loose connections or broken contacts / wires any where within the washing machine . 
 

would you suggest that maybe I should replace the pressure switch they are @ £20.  If it’s not the pressure switch would you then believe fault lies within PCB ?. 
 

This machine is only 15 months old , I’ve read your previous reviews on indesit machines

 

Your helps appreciated

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  • Root Admin

Hi. I wouldn’t replace any part unless you can diagnose it’s faulty. That method can just lead to buying part after part, and quickly getting to a point where you can’t stop because you’ve already spent so much money. 
 

If the fault is related to the pressure system it’s most likely to be a blockage, although that’s unusual if the washing machine is only 15 months old. Unfortunately with this type of fault on such a young machine it’s not possible to walk you through a repair. It really needs an engineer to diagnose it.
 

The only thing you could check is for a pressure chamber blockage. Try searching these forums for pressure chamber to find out more and make sure you follow any link to relevant articles on Whitegoodshelp 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Thank you Andy 

Access to the pressure chamber limited , but blew down hose attached to pressure switch , hose is clear with gurgling sound of water from depth so assume all is clear . 
 

one last question before I try to find a machine technician . I replaced pump . Is it possible to connect the 2 connectors wrong way ? or does the polarity play no odds on running of water pump?.

Your forum and info contained is of great help . I’ll let your member know final outcome . 
 

Best Regards

 

Ian & Marie


 

 

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  • Root Admin

Hi Ian. No it shouldn’t matter which way around the pump connections are. 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Andy

we gave up and purchased another washer drier . However I’ve had another look at the indesit before I throw it and on the main module ? Control panel I found that there was burned area of the circuit board.  Near a series of components labelled NpN 50 , npn 35, 34 , 37 . And a component LI05.

 

I had changed the water pump and pressure valve but I guess the damage to the main module caused the F11 code

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  • Root Admin

Quite possibly, if it was definitely a  burned section. It’s very common for black soot-like deposits to form around resistors that get very hot and many people mistake it for being burned out. 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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