Intermittent problem: stops on Drain or Rinse cycle with F1E1 error.

[Steven Woodward]

Amana Washer Tandem 7300, NFW7300WW01

Intermittent problem:  stops on Drain or Rinse cycle with F1E1 error.   Not only intermittent but becoming more frequent

Looking for suggestions

Have done the following but problem persists:

1. Thorough cleaning of the pressure tube, air chamber, and big rubber boot that connects chamber to the drum. There was a lot of greasy build up so hoped this would fix the problem but it did not.
2. The drain pump seemed to work fine but was quite noisy so replaced it with a new one, but did not fix the problem.   
3. Replaced all three relays on the Central Control Unit CCU, part number WPW10525367.    Thought this might work because the service manual says this about the F1E1 error: “The pump driver fails to activate/One of the main relays is not working properly/ A communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU occurred”.    But did not fix the problem
4.  Bypassed the grounding switches for front and rear kick plate so that they cannot generate an error if the switch is intermittent or the kick-plate fit is poor.

As the problem is intermittent, and becoming more frequent, I am thinking it is caused by a relay, connector, or switch, or motor, because electronic components tend to just fail rather than become intermittent. I am reluctant to replace the the entire Central Control Unit (CCU) becasue it is expensive and seems unlikely to fit the problem, now that the relays have been replaced.  But if that is the correct solution then I will replace it.   

In the absence of a better suggestion, I think my next step is to check the connections, and ground switches mentioned below, but I don't hold much confidence in this being the problem.

Remainder of this post is from the service manual

The service manual says possible causes/procedure for F1E1 error are:

1. Check for loose power outlet. A loose power plug in the wall can create line noise and issues. [Does not feel loose, but I have not yet replaced outlet]
2. Check if washer is on a dedicated circuit. Other devices on same circuit can create line noise and cause this issue.  [checked, and it is on a dedicated circuit]
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 
4. Make sure that wire harness connections from the CCU are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
5. Make sure all green wires (ground harness system) are not broken or detached.
6. Make sure the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe and rear panels. - Make sure all connectors are fully seated.
7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
8. Check for power going to Central Control Unit (CCU) by listening for a click in the CCU when unit is plugged into washer or when reconnecting power. [checked, and can hear the click]
9. Verify washer operation by performing the Diagnostic Test. See page 5.  [checked: diagnostic test sometimes completes and other times stops with F1E1 error, so it is the same intermittent problem]
10. After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds. [checked: unplug, wait, and plug back in does not help.  Even tried unplug for 10 minutes.]

 

Once, and only once, there was an error code F6E1.   

Service manual says this about F6E1:   “The communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly. “

The service manual says possible causes/procedure for F6E1 error are:

1. Check for loose power outlet. A loose power plug in the wall can create line noise and issues. [Does not feel loose, but I have not yet replaced outlet]
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check that the power cord terminals are connected at the right position to the RFI filter (white-Neutral/ black-Line).
4. Make sure that the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe and rear panels.
5. Make sure that ground switches are installed correctly, are not broken, and that the green ground wires are connected correctly.
6. Make sure that both ground switches are not broken or scratched.
7. Make sure that all the ground harnesses (green wires) are connected correctly, and are not broken or with wires detached.
8. Make sure that all wire harness connections from the CCU (MI3 cavity), main Motor, and MCU are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
9. Check for continuity from the MCU connector wires to CCU (MI3 cavity) connector.
10. If the continuity diagnosis failed, the Main Harness must be replaced.
11. Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated.
12. Check the drive system for any worn or failed components.
13. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
14. Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5.
15. After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and
16. wait for 15 seconds.

Edited April 17 by Steven Woodward
spelling mistake

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Hello Steven. I'm not sure we have that brand of washing machine in the UK. I certainly don't have any error codes for it. However it seems like you have found some error codes. This kind of fault is very difficult even for an experienced engineer to fix. So my first thought is that it is not worth trying to repair this. It's always worth having a look, but if nothing obvious or simple can be seen it is not worth going down the rabbit hole.

Regarding the loose power plug. It's overkill to replace the power plug. You need to try it in a different wall socket somewhere near by. You may have to temporarily use an extension lead.

It just seems like it's one of those crazy faults that is not only intermittent, but reports different errors with multiple possibilities. One of the worst kind of faults to possibly try and fix as a DIY repair.

[Steven Woodward]

5 hours ago, Whitegoodshelp (Andy) said:

Hello Steven. I'm not sure we have that brand of washing machine in the UK. I certainly don't have any error codes for it. However it seems like you have found some error codes. This kind of fault is very difficult even for an experienced engineer to fix. So my first thought is that it is not worth trying to repair this. It's always worth having a look, but if nothing obvious or simple can be seen it is not worth going down the rabbit hole.

Regarding the loose power plug. It's overkill to replace the power plug. You need to try it in a different wall socket somewhere near by. You may have to temporarily use an extension lead.

It just seems like it's one of those crazy faults that is not only intermittent, but reports different errors with multiple possibilities. One of the worst kind of faults to possibly try and fix as a DIY repair.

Thanks Andy,

General question: regardless of washing machine make/model, how common is it that replacing the control board fixes an intermittent problem ?

The reason I keep pursuing this, is that washer fits under a counter top, and replacement models today are 2" or 50mm higher than when current machine, so just getting a new machine is no so simple.

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Hi. It’s risky. Intermittent faults can be poor connections or wires with broken wire inside, or parts overheating, being moved around during wash cycle or even being leaked on partway through cycle. 
 

It’s perfectly possible that replacing it might fix the fault but the part is usually expensive and non returnable. Regarding fitting a new one, that’s something you will have to deal with sooner or later even if you got this one fixed so it might be better to deal with it now. 
 

You may need to adjust the kitchen somehow if all new ones won’t fit.