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Siemens IQ300 washing machine error f43


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Posted (edited)

Hello,

2 nights ago our electric was tripped, when switching it back on the washing machine was flashing with an error code f43.

After searching I decided to change the motors carbon brushes. The old ones were very low, with one of them very dull and slightly discoloured due to burning (im guessing).

Anyway, I changed the brushes, reset the machine, and tried a wash. But the motor still does not turn, I tried resetting over again but nothing.

I let the new load run through the cycle only to end up with an f43 code again towards the end.

Does anyone know what the issue may be? Have I forgotten to do something else? And are there fuses within the washing machine?

 

Thanks

William

Edited by williamk72
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If the motor isn't running the first thing that needs checking is the continuity on the motor. Make sure you've released the carbon brushed from their holders and they are both touching the commutator. 

If it fused the washing machine it's possible something else got damaged, maybe in the pcb. It should also be tested for low continuity but you need a specialist insulation test meter. 

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Hello! I did check that the brushes were touching and they are. I think my next step is to test the motor as detailed in the video I posted in my previous post/reply.

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Yes, and make sure the motor plug is in properly and all the tags inside it and the motor socket it connects to are OK. 

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Are they the 2 thin red wires that don't get a reading?

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I'm unable to see as it looks like an enclosed unit. I'll have to take the motor apart. I'll try and find a diagram for the motor.

So if it is the two red wires, does that mean it's a dead motor?

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You can usually see where the wires go to at the bottom of the pins. There's usually two thin red wires that go from the small coil at the end of the motor to two of the pins.

On a washing machine motor with carbon brushes there's usually 2 pins that test the carbon brushes. One to each brush. Then 3 pins that go to the field coil. You should get a good reading from them all. 

The last 2 pins are the two thin wires that go to the tacho coil. This coil has a very long thin wire and therefore has a very high resistance. It can appear open circuit on normal continuity meter setting. If your meter has a higher range setting you may be able to get a reading from it. If I remember right it's about 200 Ohms. 

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