Beko WDB7426R1B tripping out on Drying cycle. Faults E10 & C41

[Captainbeaky]

Hello all, 

I'm trying to get my friends Beko Washer dryer to work properly. Washing - no problem - this is a dryer only issue.

The dryer will run for about 35 mins, and then the whole machine trips off.

On investigation, fan runs fine - no obstructions in the hot air path, but the temperature sensor in the dryer heater unit was out of spec, and tripping the 175c overtemp cutout, so, I've replaced the sensor and the two cutouts.

Now, the dryer seems to act more reasonably - the element switches on and off periodically, and the clothes seem to be drying, but it' still tripping out. Cold water feed is fine, as is the drain pump.

I've since learned how to check the fault codes, and it's coming up with E10 and C41.

E10 is "door jam" - but it isn't jammed - door lock works perfectly.

C41 - not sure - any ideas?

It's definitely linked to the time it's been running - it runs for 30 mins no worries, then seems to over heat maybe? and shut down completely.

Can someone shed some light please? What exactly do these codes mean so I can investigate further.

Ta,

Mike.

 

 

[Captainbeaky]

Just been testing the machine now, and It tripped off.

Straight away, I switched it back on, entered diagnostic mode - and no codes!?!

Switched it off and back on, entered diagnostic mode - E10 and C41 are back!

I'm starting to think main board? Any ideas welcome...

Also, is there anywhere I can get a repair manual for this?

TIA,

Mike.

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Hi Mike. There are no repair manuals publicly available. Only the trade can get them by paying a subscription. 
 

If the machine is tripping out it should be because there’s a leak to earth. It’s unusual for it to trip out only after half an hour. Maybe something is expanding with the heat and touching something causing it to trip. 
 

You can’t effectively troubleshoot electrical tripping without an insulation test meter, which is a specialist and expensive tool.
 

It’s possible the heating  element could be warped or damaged and expanding and touching the casing it is in. But having a look involves removing the cover which may need reselling with heat resistant sealant. 

A proper insulation test meter would be able to test and show which part is leaking to earth. 

Also I presume you replaced the sensor with the exact one specified for the model?

[Captainbeaky]

OK - when I say "Tripping" - I mean the washing machine stops altogether - screen goes dark, and I have to cycle the control through "off" to get it back on again. This isn't the usual end of cycle - this is a "dead stop". Does an earth fault do this? 

If so, I'll break out the Megger and have a look. The prime candidate would be the dryer heater, as it has most definitely been repeatedly run hot to the point of activating the over temp trip.

Yes, the sensor was the one specified by Beko - from a Beko parts distributor, and the dryer activity seems far more sensible now - the heat is cycled on and off every few minutes, whereas it was just on until the over temp trip caught it before.

Any idea what the two fault codes are?

 

 

 

 

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Hi there. Thanks for the clarification, yes tripping means tripping the electrics as in blowing the fuse. So the issue that you have won't benefit from a Megger.

I only have a few Beko error codes and they all begin with E. Unfortunately unless you pay a subscription to all white goods manufacturers you don't get access to them and I can't justify the cost myself.

The only thing I can say is that if a washer-dryer's drying section overheats it can be caused by a lack of cold water trickling into the condenser at the back, the fan not running round, the air being restricted somewhere in the system by a build up of fluff, or the condensed water unable to run into the drum due to a blockage - or even overloading with laundry. It's possible for a sensor device to go faulty but it's more often one of the other things. At the end of the day if it's not something fairly obvious I would be  hesitant to get too much further involved.

[Captainbeaky]

OK thanks for your help.

The obvious causes are what I checked first - The water flow is OK - The air flow isn't blocked - The drain works perfectly. Dryer definitely not overloaded - we've been testing with two t-shirts - way under the normal load.

The "door sensor" as Beko call it (and is used to regulate the dryer heater outlet temp) was definitely faulty and causing problems (Heater wouldn't turn off and the high temp trip was tripping). Now I've replaced it, it's regulating the temperature fine. But the whole machine "clunks" off, and I have to pass through the OFF position on the rotary selector to get it back on.

It doesn't seem to be overheating now, temperatures seem sane.

As an aside, I ran an insulation test on the dryer element (I've got a "crank handle" type Megger insulation tester, so I ran a test between the heater casing and one of the heater element terminals). When cold - no response from the meter at all. But when hot and damp, I get a small reading - 500 Mohm. It's definitely worse when hot and damp.

I'm trying to get the machine to trip out so I can check it again. 

I Might concede defeat and call a guy out.

Frustrating about the repair manuals - as an automotive engineer, they are easy enough to come by.

 

[Whitegoodshelp (Andy)]

Wow a crank handle Megger. Is it black bakelite by any chance? I remember one of those when I first started repairing them in 1976.

[Captainbeaky]

Not that old. the MOD use/used them (as it needs no batteries) certainly up to 2014 (Last cal date) the model number is Megger BR4

I recently bought it from an MOD clearance place.

It's 250 volt, has a decade box, can run as a wheatstone bridge, and do a "Varley" and "Murray" test that I really should research sometime!