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Hoover Wa110 Washing Machine Sticking On Cycle


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I have a hoover performa washing machine model WA110.

The problem is that the programmer stops at the same point in the wash cycle (between 4-5). If I move it on by hand the pump starts running and the cycle completes. When the programmer has stuck, the drum rotates and stops then reverses and stops, this process then continues until I intervene.

Checks carried out so far: after filling, heater starts, heater checked OK. Thermostat closes and programme motor starts. Programmer rotates, turns off heater and is now stuck in this position. I have checked the level pressure switch. (N.B. there is only one click should there be two?) It appears to be waiting for an input signal.

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I'll try to find out how many levels the pressure swich should have. Old Hoover's usually have two or even three. When it sticks and just rotates and stops - is there any water in the drum? Does any water come in at any point while stuck?

( Related: If washing machine sticks on a cycle of filling with water, but the water trickles down the drain there's more information here - Washing machine constantly fills with water and goes down the drain )

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Cold water comes into the washing machine at the start of the cycle, then is heated via the heater, but after the initial fill, no more water ever comes in. I am now thinking that the valve on the conditioner, which looks like a cold fill, could be sticking, blocked maybe? I have checked the solenoid circuit for continuity, all three solenoids read the same, I cannot remember the actual value, but they are the same.

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The conditioner water valve should only come into play on the last rinse (this is the case with most washing machines) It shouldn't normally even cause a problem other than not taking the conditioner down. If the main cold water valve was faulty then that would stop it rinsing though.

If you are positive that cold water comes in on wash then the cold water supply and valve sound OK. Most wash programs take in hot AND cold, so not having any cold water come in would not affect the main wash - which would fill with hot water instead. A fault would then occur when the washing machine tried to rinse.

Have you tried it on rinse only programme yet? How many wires does your pressure switch have? Is it a very small device with just 3 or 4 wires? If so it probably is just a one level switch. If it has half a dozen or more then it should be a 2 or 3 level switch.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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I have tried it on the rinse only cycle, cold water fill and no problem. I have took off the water level/pressure switch, it is a 4 terminal device, and the contact configuration is; with no water, (pressure), common to contact 1 is normally closed, (n/c) common to contact 2 n/o, common to contact 3, n/o. With pressure applied, common to contact 1 - open common to contact 2 - closed, common to contact 3 - closed.

When the programmer is in its "stalled" position, the only place in the cycle that this happens, the small programmer motor is still running and it can be heard running. The programmer switches inside can be heard clicking, as if they are changing over, but the rotary dial does not move round. I have checked most things I can think of, it looks to me like a fault inside the programmer itself, what do you think?

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Yes, it's starting to sound like a faulty program timer now. It's not that common, the majority of washing machines sticking on a program are not the timer, but either a water valve, a pump, heater, thermostat etc. ( Related: Washing machine sticks or stops mid-cycle )


Hoover are one of the few companies that give a free 5 year parts guarantee, so if the washing machine is less than 5 years old I would get Hoover out. It will cost much less to let them do it (and guarantee the work) than it would to take the risk and buy and fit a timer yourself.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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