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Bosch Exxcel not drying


Laury

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Hi,

I've found this forum to be very helpful in my ongoing washer/dryer saga. I've read a number of threads and an article directly related to the problem and worked through the solutions. Thanks for all the hints and advice from the mod and the other users. 

The problem though still persists. 

Symptoms are, if the dry cycle continues at all:

undried but very steamy clothes,

Steam coming out of the drawer,

Sometimes the cycle just stops about 3 minutes in.  

Over the past 2 days I've got more intimate with this washing machine than I ever imagined I would! 

I've disassembled and cleaned out the condenser, a tricky job on one of these, but it's gone back in ok . Pulled a large clump of lint from it. 

I've tested the cold water solenoid valves which seem to be working ok as water trickles into the condenser at the beginning of the cycle but then not again, which is when steam comes out of the drawer.

I then replaced the solenoid valve, same result.

I cleaned and checked to see if there was a blockage downstream of the drum, rubber manifold off, cleaned and replaced. No difference.

As I sit here pearched on a foot stool, staring right at the blasted machine, typing this and scratching my head I'm beginning to get some pain in my pocket as the only answer looks like a White Knight dryer unless one of you can suggest any other potential solutions. 

This machine is perhaps 9 years old and it's given good service in that time but was bought pre-financial crash when credit was easy to get and when I had a better job, more hair and no dependants hence I need a cheap solution as buying new is almost out of the question unless I live in the machine! 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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Hello Laury. I'm assuming you read my article here? Laundry comes out of washer dryer hot & steamy

The article describes how the dryer cycle works, and that if there is steam (and presumably heat) then the dryer element must be working. In that case the problem has to be due to either no water running into the condenser chamber (can you see water running in their - it's usually a steady but slow trickle). If it is, then the water and steam should mix and water should run down into the bottom of the plastic condenser chamber. From there it runs into the main pump to be pumped away.

If the pump is blocked or not running that will also cause faults but the wash cycle will also be faulty. 

The only other possibility I can think of is if something prevented the steam getting into the condenser chamber in the first place. But if the dryer fan wasn't running (double check) it would normally cause the safety stat's to cut out or blow due to overheating. 

For drying to take place the following needs to happen -

  • Not overloaded so hot air can circulate in drum
  • Dryer heater energised and working
  • Fan dryer running
  • Steam blown into condenser chamber
  • Water running into top of condenser chamber for steam to hit and condense back to water
  • Water falls into base of condenser chamber and into the outer drum
  • Water gets pumped out through main pump

 

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Andy, 

Thanks for the reply and the article, which I've read many times over the last couple of days. 

I've run the machine through a couple of wash and dry cycles now and although the steam is still coming from the drawer for at least the first 30 minutes of a 2 hour dry cycle, the clothes are coming out dry now so maybe the issue has resolved itself or I was expecting something different, I don't know. 

I disconnected the pipe from the solenoid that feeds the condenser and sat and watched while having a mug of tea to see if water came out at any point. It did but typically, it happened as soon as turned my back and went upstairs for 10 minutes. Came back down to an overflowing tea mug strategically placed to catch the water and a puddle on the floor! For the rest of the cycle, water went into the condenser which had the effect of all but stopping the steam coming from the drawer. 

So from about 30 - 40 minutes into the dry cycle, the solenoid and condenser did its job. 

Thank again for the help, the forum is a blessing and the articles are well written. 

It looks to be ok now but can't help but thjnk that this problem may raise its head again. Could it be a sensor issue somewhere in the system? 

Occasionally stopping a couple of minutes into the cycle or if the cycle does continue, no water coming from the solenoid.  

 

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I would expect water to come into the condenser chamber as soon as the dry cycle started. 30 - 40 minutes in seems very late to me. I can't say for sure but the ones I've repaired all set the water solenoid running straight away.

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It's just thrown a F:17 code now. The water is on but I think the new solenoid is goosed. I thought it looked used when I took it out of its wrapping this morning. 

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I'm assuming there is nothing wrong with the cold water supply. The washing machine would fail on the wash cycle if there was a problem with the water supply (faulty or blocked tap or kinked fill hose).

The chances of your old valve and the replacement having the same fault seem very unlikely though nothing is impossible.If the valve is working sometimes but not others you would need to be sure the valve is getting power and has a neutral return to be sure it's a faulty valve. A valve could be blocked inside but it's very rare - especially on 2 different ones. Make sure the hose leading from the valve is clear although I suspect you've already done that and it's not likely to be blocked anyway. 

 

Make sure where the hose fits onto the condenser chamber there isn't some sort of flow restrictor fitted which could be blocked. Other than that it would be better to get an engineer to check the electrical side.

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I've bit the bullet and bought a Logic dryer. To delve any deeper into the Bosch washer dryer would only cost as much as the dryer anyway in parts and, if I go down the route of an engineer, labour costs. As long as the washing part of it continues for another year or two I'll be happy. 

I checked for any potential bad earth connections but to be honest I could foresee going as far as trying to replace the brain of the operation which I assume would include the entire front control panel. Put another solenoid into that and I assume it's already approaching the price of a new machine. Checking the computer on it went through my mind but I'm well out of my depth with PCBs, I can confidently say it's farked if I see signs of burning on one but beyond that.....

 

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Thanks for the update Laury. There's only so much you can check. You did as much as you could.

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