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W/m Filling & Draining Via Pump At Same Time On A Beko Wmb61431W


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Upon reading your troubleshooting guide to this problem, I do not think there is a siphoning problem as nothing has changed as regards drain pipe heights or pipework plumbing arrangement. The inlet valve does not open when the w/m is switched off, the pump works ok when draining although I have also cleaned the filter which contained some gunge & the w/m spins & drains when I shut off the inlet water supply.

The problem is that water enters ( through the pre-wash channel as opposed to that of the main wash) & drains via the pump in an unending cycle so that wash cycles are infrequent & on those occasions that a cycle does begin the program-me seems to go to the end mode too soon.

The troubleshooting section refers to the possibility cold water cycling to compensate for overheating caused by a faulty NTC Thermistor. Is this the same as the thermostat in the Heater Element?

I have contacted 4washerhelp who can supply an element but the thermostat comes separately & is currently out of stock & will take up to 28 days to obtain.

I could try other suppliers but thought I should ask if you thought that replacing this thermostat (&/or element) might resolve the problem or if it is more likely to be something else like the PCB board in which case I would probably just buy another machine as QER stated they would not be able to fully test this PCB.

Finally is it usual for the w/m to fill via the prewash rather than main wash channel when not progamming a prewash & if not might this have any bearing on the problem.

Any other possible solutions would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance.

GD

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  • Root Admin

Hello GD, and thanks for using Ransom Spares for spares.

Some washing machines may do a little flush before starting the wash cycle by filling with water a little and energising the pump for several seconds. Then they may fill just long enough to fill the sump hose full of water which then gets sealed off with a floating ball so that when it flushes the detergent into the drum no detergent falls into the sump hose and gets wasted. The water going into the machine for this flush can't be from the main fill system or it would flush detergent down so it may well do this initial fill from pre-wash side instead.

If when you put the washer on the water fills and empties down the drain in a cycle so the water level never gets high enough is the pump continuously running when this happens or not? If it isn't running but water still drains away it's definitely siphoning out.

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Thanks for replying. The water seems only to drain when the pump is operating.

I think the problem may be simplified by stating that the washer continues to fill even when the spin & drain cycle is programmed.

Additionally during a wash cycle prewash water enters for the majority of the cycle, shutting off only for about 10 seconds occasionally sputtering/filling erratically & causing the fill hose to move about. During this wash cycle the main wash water also fills for about 3 seconds only, the drum agitates & the pump is off until the drum half fills with water. Then the pump drains the drum at a faster rate than the prewash can fill, until the drum is empty, at which point the pump switches off. This "Time Saver" wash cycle continues through the 30 minute countdown cycle except on three occasions when the associated 30 minute countDOWN timer jumped backwards from 14 to 16, from 10 to 12 & 8 to 10 minutes before eventually counting down to 2 minutes remaining & finally end of programme. The washer however thereafter continues to half fill the drum, when pump again activates to drain drum to quarter fill at which point becoming bored, I isolate the mains water feed stopcock to allow the washer to drain & then switch the washer power off.

What do you think requires testing or replacing.

Thanks.

GD

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  • Root Admin
I would definitely not start replacing parts. It would be pure guesswork and could waste a lot of time and money. It seems to be behaving very strangely so it's not easy to diagnose remotely. However one possible cause of bizarre behaviour is if there is low insulation on one of the parts, but this would need testing with a proper insulation test meter only usually owned by engineers.


I would get an engineer to look at it. Please let us know how you get on.

Need a repair or spare parts? 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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