colino Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Our machine is a few years old now and apart from its spin, "jumpiness" as referred to in your review, has been totally reliable - up until now. A couple of days ago the machine just stopped. It appeared to be moving from the prewash phase to the main wash and just stopped. The door glass appeared to be warm, though not too warm, suggesting the heater was working fine, then I noticed the little "padlock" light was out. The only light on was the second one down green led for "wash". Assuming this was a door interlock fault, I've just fitted a new one (surprisingly quick job - I should have known better) and reconnected the machine and it is still the same! There doesn't appear to be any code available, the only light on now (as it's stopped mid-cycle) is the wash led. Can you help? Many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin Whitegoodshelp (Andy) Posted May 12, 2013 Root Admin Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 If it isn't showing an error code it may be a problem with the main pcb. I would say it needs an engineer. Need a repair or spare parts? Book a Repair | Buy appliance spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed) Warning: Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colino Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hi Andy, Thanks for your reply, but just wondering if this is a common fault on the machines that armed with a decent multimeter and soldering iron I can fix? I am a marine engineer (suitable in the amount of bailing out I had to do) so not averse to getting my hands dirty and working in a safe environment without doing anything daft if pointed in the right direction. Many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin Whitegoodshelp (Andy) Posted May 13, 2013 Root Admin Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 You could always have a look on the pcb's to check for anything obvious, but if you found anything blown you'd need to test components with a megga for insulation leaks, or work out what had blown it. Some washing machines can hold a nasty charge several minutes after being unplugged so don't poke around there until it's been unplugged 5 or 10 mins. Washing machine engineers don't normally repair pcb's they've always been trained to simply replace them, therefore unless we see a dry joint we don't repair them. Need a repair or spare parts? Book a Repair | Buy appliance spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed) Warning: Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colino Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Much obliged. Whitegoodshelp (Andy) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colino Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Had a look at the pcb and as there are a number of obviously heat damaged components, even soot! I'll stop my investigations there and get another budget machine. As it is date stamped 26/07 internally, not too bad for almost six years hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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