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Hi. Welcome back Andy. It sounded Ok here but volume not very loud. After filling up a bit they always energise the pump and that sounds like the pump running. However, if there was a problem with the pump it should make the same noise each time it empties the water unless each other time it pumps the main motor is also whooshing around.

Hi Julian. Ref your couple of years old Hotpoint making banging noise on spin. Yep most likely a drum / spider/ bearings problem. See if your drum feels loose relative to the plastic tank. If so we are all singing from same hymm sheet. This problem is pretty common as washerhelp mentioned. Your machine should be under 10 year free parts but not the labour (unless you`ve paid extra on an insurance - but then you`d remember that) and Hotpoints labour charge was/is 130 quid (but you would have to check). If the machine is not old might be worth exploring that option other than scrapping it. Could also be a concrete weight half hanging off the tank unit - not unknown. Unlikely to be suspension problems. Much more likely be the bearings or spider as already mention. Did have a similar machine to yours where the bearing tube is set in plastic and the plastic had split purely academic still a new tank unit. Note this machine of yours should have a plastic sealed tank unit so changing bearings is not going to happen. Let us know what you figured out in the end.

Update model is per the photo above - got the 4 big motor bolts off and detached the motor. After a quick amazon delivery can confirm that the bolts holding the carbon brushes in place needed a 5.5mm drive socket (not stocked in my local hardware shops). Carbon brushes now detached, waiting for the new ones to come in to see if they make it work again!

Thank you so much! I had a similar issue with a Blomberg LRF285411W (which is a rebadged Beko WDX8543...). Your post helped me to diagnose and have now got the dryer function 100% working again. By holding down "spin" and pressing "on" it booted the machine into diagnostic mode. Then I pressed "start" until it got to test 6 which span the dryer fan but then gave error E32. For me the issue wasn't that the cable into the connector was broken. The same cable was severed about 20cm further down where it had been getting pinched at a sharp angle. The machine vibrations eventually split the cable. I just had to replace that part of cable and now it's all good. Thanks again!

Yeah, I swapped that one out as well, allthough it was working finde. But man - how did you see the crack? 🕵️‍♂️ And you are right, the red marked is for the dryer!

Yes always use the genuine spare part and not "suitable for" or "will fit"

Soo, update here: Turned out the chinese part had some kind of restrictor nozzle as well, but the flow was still way too strong! Also, the valves are glued in so no chance opening them. I ended up disassembling and cleaning the old valve finding, that one pusher was full of lime. I cleaned it with vinegar and cleaned all the rubber parts as well, put everything back together and insalled the old valve. Now, the machine works perfectly again! What can be learned: Don't buy the chinese crap parts of ebay/amazon. If so, try to swap the restrictor nozzle. DO NOT THROW AWAY THE OLD PART See ya!

Hey guys, I had the same exact issue! Swapped the Inlet Valve due to overnight fillup and started having troubles with the dryer function. Clothes got out extremely wet and I could hear water flowing in beginning after ~5minutes in and never stopped. I also threw away my old inlet valve but I managed to get it back out the trash before it was gone forever 🤣 There is definitely a restrictor in the valve-outlet to the dryer! The cheap amazon part does not have that. I assume this is the issue. I will update tomorrow after testing the drying function :)

Hi @Whitegoodshelp (Andy), I'm back to tell that finally I managed to figure out the root cause. It wasn't the PCB, but the circulation pump got shorted. The multimeter measured ~20 Ohms on it (while the drain pump measured ~187 MOhms if I remember correctly). After disconnecting the drain pump + circulation pump the washing cycle test went through without any issue. Unfortunately I was not aware that there's a second pump as well 🙂, so I assumed that the drain pump is OK, and I never disconnected it. Although it is true that the drain pump is OK, it had to be disconnected since the connection of the drain pump and circulation pump is fitted into the same plug. It was a great learning journey, thank you for your tips too! I've learned a lot during the almost 1 year troubleshooting. Take care!

Hi @Whitegoodshelp (Andy) Thanks for replying and for your advice. I have decided I will purchase a replacement motor pump and get a technician to replace it for me because I would have absolutely no idea how to do it. Your help has been greatly appreciated. Regards.

Hi. Yes, even most appliance repair engineers don't bother trying to fix faults like this. They just say it's the PCB and quote a very expensive price that no one would ever agree to. It's ludicrous that these pcbs aren't repaired. It's also highly unlikely the old one will fit in the new machine, either, as they constantly change them or make different ones for different models. Back in the 70s when I started repairing them, Hoover only had 2 different modules for every single washing machine they produced. They all also had the same pump, same valves, same door locks etc. etc.

Hello Andy, thank you for following up and letting me know even if it gets me no nearer tp the answer! I have just ordered and received a new water distribution solenoid so when I fit it I'm determined to have another look at the mysterious open hose and see if there is any blockage causing the overflow. I'll let you know if I find anything!

After some extensive investigating, including removing the back panel unnecessarily, I found the following procedure. All of the screwing side below was done with torx screw driver 1) Follow the procedure for a washing machine with a kick panel, which is to remove two identical screws either side of the pump in the filter box, and the lowest of three screws at the bottom of the detergent box 2) Undo door seal, remove spring 3) Remove the top panel by unscrewing two torx screws at the back 4) Undo two screws by the detergent box, which hold the control panel in place 5) Put the control panel to one side after jiggling the tabs for a bit (this was tricky) 6) With the control panel moved, undo two exposed screws holding the front panel 7) Somehow raise the whole goddamn washing machine to allow access to some hidden screws at the base, which I did with a ramp and blocks to a height of about six inches so that I could use a flexible screwdriver extension to get at the screws and then undo the screws 8 ) Jiggle the thing and deal with the door mechanism falling off, and then remove the door lock mechanism from the front panel as per the usual procedure for Bosch washing machines. 9) But alas there was one final problem, there is a ribbed pipe feed from the detergent box to the top of the door seal which runs through a hole in the front panel, this ribbed pipe was connected to an L-shaped connector, which proved impossible to separate from the ribbed pipe, so I had to pull the front panel to one side and finally I was able to get at the drain pump. 10) There was then lots of fiddling with hoses and clips. The two hoses to the drain pump were not clogged with anything, so I assume I will have to buy a new drain pump because of the grinding noise and degraded empyting performance of the washing machine. 11) After all that, which included stabbing myself with screwdriver in an attempt to release the L-shaped connector from the ribbed hose, I needed a long lie-down.

That's brilliant, cheers. I'll try that, though I doubt it, as although the display goes off and the machine still continues, suggesting uninterrupted power supply. You suggest it may be either the display PCB or main control board. In that case, I'll purchase the display PCB first and see if that works. As I said, the intermittence of the on/off issue occurs when the machine is at rest and not on a cycle, so I don't think that there is a mechanical connection that's loose, but it may suggest a faulty transistor/gate on a board. The wiring looks in good order, no pinches or abmornalities. The machine isn't cheap, so I'd sooner try with a fix first. It's well out of warranty as well, so no luck there. Thanks for your assistance on this matter, it's much appreciated. I'll post the results of the fix (positive or negative) as to aid anyone else who may find they have this issue in the future.

Thanks for the response. I actually managed to get a local repair chap around today who didn't actually do anything other than saying it's probably the main PCB which apparently lives at the bottom of the LG Machine. He estimated that it would be around £300 for the main circuit board and that wouldn't actually guarantee to fix it. I decided to just order a new machine so did that this afternoon. I actually went for another LG washer/dryer since this one had worked perfectly for 7 years without any blips at all..... er... until it completely died As the current machine is being scrapped I decided to dismantle it to look for the main PCB. Found it and nothing obvious wrong. There appears to be two fuses on the board, tested the main one, seemed OK, the other smaller one is covered in resin so can't easily test. Such a shame that we live in a world where it's commonplace to just scrap equipment like this, only good news was that LG are doing a "Trade-In" deal currently, so I did get £100 off

OK so this is a weird one. I've watched lots of videos explaining how to replace brushes on a Beko machine and none of them featured thick plastic being pulled out the motor or being stuck to brushes. So I'm thinking it's protective plastic covering the commutator that should have been removed during manufacturing? It was causing a grinding noise. It was not originally tripping the power. It's only doing that since removing the plastic. Pics included. Anyway, although there's no more bits being released onto the floor under the machine and I've removed most if not all the plastic and the machine doesnt make any grinding noises anymore the machine still trips the power when its in spin cycle. Any ideas?! Model number is BEKO WTG620M1W TiA! Solution: Plastic sheath around commutator should have been removed when manufactured. Removed motor and opened the two steel chassis sections to reveal severely damaged commutator with deep gouges, see photo. Replacement motor bought Part required: Arcelik 2842510100 motor

If the drive belt keeps coming off this article will help drive belt on washing machine keeps coming off

Aye, WD40 should be used. It's not only great at cleaning, it is non conductive of electricity

I wish I'd seen this before spending hours cleaning out the filter and searching Google for the answer! I even created an account to share what I'd found, only to find Nevameta had already posted. I came to the same conclusion independently whilst working through the suggestions in other posts. Some of them said to press the delay button to stop it but I noticed that this said "Delay timer - no selection." I tried a few other buttons and the response was similar so I thought "hang on... Cycle - No Change..." What happens if I try to change the cycle? Bingo! Same error message - "Cycle - No change." It's telling you that you can't change the cycle mid-cycle because it thinks you are twisting the cycle knob! Anyway. I don't support the tip about spraying water into the controls. I would hope that the circuits are low voltage DC so there should be little risk of electrocution but I wouldn't want to get water in the electronics of the front panel because this can cause further damage. I'm going to see if spinning the wheel a few times cleans up the contacts enough to stop it happening. If not, I'll see if I can take off the panel to clean it from behind. If you have access to compressed air, blowing this through the gap between the knob and the panel may help. I wonder if it's because we use the same cycle 90% of the time so the knob sometimes doesn't get moved for weeks?

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Thank you so much all - tried the old turn on and off - I am more swayed to an issue with our electrics in that area so will look into this aspect as seems odd that the screen just goes completely blank as you say, rather than an error code. I am going to investigate further later. Thank you again - I don't know how to reply individually.

It's a long shot, but have you tried leaving it for half an hour or so after it stops to see if it springs back into life? Just in case for some reason they have designed it to turn off the display (or it is set to do that for eco saving etc)? Sometimes they could just stop revolving the drum until the water has heated up a little. I'm also presuming it is a cold fill only washing machine with only one water valve to connect a hose to?

Hi. If the new one is behaving like the old one then that's a strong indication the fault could be related to installation or plumbing. If it was water pressure though, it should indicate an error code. All washing machines allow a set time to fill with water, and if it fails to reach a set water level within this time, they abort with a water-fault error code. In fact, virtually all faults should generate a specific error code in the display. If no error code is displayed and the display turns off, that only really leaves a fault in the electrics or some fault on the washing machine that is not causing an error code. I had a similar problem with my microwave ones in that I would set it running and after a short while it would just stop and the display would go off. It turned out to be a very loose wire in the wall socket on the neutral side. However, if you have tried a completely different socket - and not just the next socket in a twin socket - then that would imply it isn't the socket though. That only really leaves a weird fault in the house electrics somewhere or a fault on the washing machine.

Hi. Miele washing machines have a metal or plastic base underneath, so it would catch water from a leak. The pool of water may then slowly seep out somehow. If it was a biggish leak then it should trigger leak detection, which is installed in the base. So it sounds like it's quite a small leak at the moment at least. Using paper can give a guide, but the only way to detect the leak is to physically inspect the machine. I do have many tips in this article here - Why is my washing machine leaking from underneath?

Hi. This is a known fault. A new Drum pulley should fix it Knocking tapping noise on spin

Yes, a blockage somewhere seems the most likely explanation.

Thanks for your thoughts, the water only flows (about 1/2 litre) following the final spin cycle. You can hear the washing machine sounding the finish alert on the video. I think the back-flush water should flow through the condenser housing to the bottom of the drum where it enters the drum through item 3 which is the suds seal. I'll check to see if I can find any blockage in that line. I have written to Miele again asking if anyone has experienced this fault previously.

Hi! Just made an account to post this having been searching all day for a fix to this problem, and I think I found the solution! The large dial where you choose which cycle you want gets clogged up with dust and grime and so when you start the machine it thinks you are trying to move the dial and responds with the beeping! The solution to this is give it a bit of a wiggle if you’re mid cycle until the beeping goes away. Then when the cycle has finished, turn off the power and spray a little water on the dial and give it a good clean. Try and use a cotton tip or something to really get in there and loosen up that dust. This solution may not work for everyone, but did for me! Good luck!

Well things have not changed - just got a brand new Miele WTD163 washer dryer - absolute rubbish. Pump keeps going at the end of its cycle - sounds like a steam train - functions poor with little control over drying - no cooling mode - horrible beeping noise on control wheel - leaves clothes creased, will not do a 1600 rpm in express mode - I could go on. Anyone finding this - avoid buying it - BUT it sounds like many other makes are the same - they even use similar control/program functions and pictures in manual - what a world we live in. Wish I had my old WT2780 repaired now!🤬

Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.