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Posted

My 6 year old Integrated AEG L11842VIT washer dryer has no power or lights on the front.  It's installed in a rental property for which I am the landlord.  I've checked the usual suspects and have traced 230V power to the main PCB which also holds the rotary switch.  I was advised by a local engineer that the door interlock usually causes these symptoms, so I replaced it but still no power or lights.  With the old switch, there was open circuit across all 3 connectors, the new switch from e spares has 5 connectors but the plug only fits one way using 3 of the 5 connectors.  The new switch has approx 900 ohms across 2 connectors which could be the interlock coil, so I was quite confident that the new switch would fix the problem, however no ...     Before I delve into replacing the PCB for £220,is there anything else I am missing.  I have physically checked the wires from the interlock plug to the PCB, but not con-checked them yet. 

Also, what are your thoughts on the age of the machine at 6 years old, would I be better off buying a new integrated washer/dryer ( AEG £650, or Bosch £950) or repairing the one I have.

Thanks for your help.

best regards

 

Ian Sutherland

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  • Root Admin
Posted

Hello. The door switch (lock) shouldn't normally cause a totally dead washing machine. Normally the lights will operate and control panel display is OK but the programme just won't start if the door isn't closed or the door lock is faulty.

In my opinion it would be crazy to gamble £220 on a new PCB. Apart from some of them needing calibrating, or even software to set them up, there's no guarantee it will fix the fault. The same symptoms could potentially be caused by other things such as wiring or even suppressor fault or control panel going dead etc. If you knew for certain that £220 would fix the fault that would be a different matter but you can't be certain. So it needs an engineer or replacing unless you are prepared to gamble.

 

 

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Posted

Hi Andy, Yes you are right and I have decided to replace the washer/drier.  As I was dismantling the front panel to remove the pcb, I was very doubtfull if I could re-assemble it with a new pcb.  The existing pcb had a small area that was darker than the rest with a couple of components looking a bit black so it may well be u/s, but as I said I didn't feel confident in getting it back together.  Furthermore with you saying it may deed calibrating etc I feel I have done the right thing.

 

Thanks for your reply earlier

 

best regards

 

IAn

  • Root Admin
Posted

Yes, far too risky with their ridiculous prices. Most pcbs have black patches on them caused by dirt being attracted to hot sections. It can look very much like burning but if a pcb has genuinely burned it's far less subtle and very clearly damaged.

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WARNING:  Read this before attempting any diy repairs. No representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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