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samcro

Hoover Ca230 Faults

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Hi,

This looks like a really useful site and has already given me some useful information but I'm still uncertain whether I have one or several faults with my old (around 8 years I think) Hoover machine. Sorry for a lengthy post but I thought I'd try and give as much info as possible.

The faults I have are variable and inconsistent. Sometimes the machine works ok, while at other times it makes a lot of noise but the drum doesn't turn, though turning the power on and off is sometimes enough to get it to start turning again. Sometimes it doesn't spin while other times its fine. Sometimes if the programmer is clicking round but nothing else is happening I have turned the machine off, opened the door, and found the drum to feel very bottom heavy as if there is too much water present even with very light loads. The variable nature of these problems leaves me wondering whether there is more than one problem or whether one issue is causing different symptoms at different times.

The motor brushes are nearly new and are making good contact and the belt is correctly tensioned. The drum spins freely when turned by hand. The pipework to the pressure switch is clear and the switch seems to be working as I have blown down it and heard two clicks. There is power at both contacts on the heater element and thermostat unit, and I believe both of these are ok as the water does heat up and I have done a continuity test on both (disconnected the terminals, put a metre across the contacts and the needle has moved to zero).

This leads me to the three items I think may have faults:1) the pump, 2) the printed control board, and 3) what I think is the temperature sensor.

1) The pump seems to vigoruosly pump out water before the final fast spin, even if the machine doesn't then start to spin. I have stripped this down and found it to be free from blockages, but there is quite a bit of lateral play in the impeller shaft and there was water in the compartment housing the rotor. I was unable to remove the impeller from the shaft to inspect this further, but I'm assuming a seal has failed and that the rotor compartment should be dry? However, as the pump seems to work I'm not sure how much of a problem this is at the moment.

2) I've had a look at the pcb and cleaned some carbon dust off it, but have found no burnt or discoloured components and no obvious evidence of a dry soldered joint. I'm unable to test this further, but could a fault with this cause my problems? See 3) for further info.

3) I have tested the sensor located near the thermostat, which I assume is a heat sensor, for continuity/ resistance and at first got no reading (the meter stayed on 1), but I suspect this was user error on my part as I later tried this again on a different range and got a reading of 31 (ohms?). I'm guessing, therefore that this may be ok. What I have noticed, however, is that at no time when I have checked this, at different stages of the wash cycle with the power on, have I detected any power at either of the two terminals. As this is connected directly to the pcb, does that point to a problem there and if this sensor is not working could it be confusing the programmes?

Thank you for any advice given, it will be much appreciated. I hate not being able to repair things!

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Book washing machine & appliance repairs Buy appliance spare parts

Note: The links above are needed to help keep this site running, please consider using them.

The problem is the "variable and inconsistent" faults make it difficult to advise on. The 3 suspects you mention should cause very different symptoms and even error codes. There's also a difference in approach and suspects if when someone says the washing machine is not spinning they mean the drum is turning round but just not kicking into fast spin or the drum stops turning altogether.

If the pump is involved in any way the symptoms can only be that the water isn't pumping out at all or only partially. If the thermistor is at fault it shouldn't affect spin and should produce an error code.


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Thanks for the reply - I agree, I hate faults of this nature.

By not spinning I meant that after reaching the spin part of the programme the machine sometimes just stops - no turning of the drum at all.

This machine has no display so does not show error codes. My main suspect for at least some of the problems is the pcb as this appears to feed the thermistor and I can detect no voltage at the thermistor. Should there be a constant supply of power to the thermistor when the machine is switched on, just like there is to the thermostat and heater element? If so, this must be part of the problem. Also, if the thermistor is not working due to lack of supplied power, can this send confusing signals to the programmer and interrupt the cycle?

Hope this makes sense - thanks for any further advice offered.

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Washing machines without displays usually still indicate error codes with flashing lights Washing machine stops with lights flashing

The thermistor should only affect the wash and should give an error code if faulty but I've seen cases where no error code was triggered caused by a lose connection on the thermistor so it's worth gently tugging the wires in case one is loose. I don't know if it should be powered all the time, it depends how it's wired up but it's just filled with temperature sensitive crystals that change their electrical resistance with differing temperatures. The thermistor shouldn't even be a consideration on spin as it only regulates the wash temperature.


Need an engineer, or to buy appliance spare parts? Please use my affiliate links to support this forum.

Book appliance engineer | Buy your Spares (4Washerhelp)

Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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