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Jan77

Bosch serie 6 washer dryer skips to drain only

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I showed different situations in those short vids. 

If I select a program and touch nothing then after 2-3 seconds machine starts draining and touch display becomes unresponsive ( that's the case of the video I'm pressing all buttons and only getting double beep )

Basically if I select the program and then press Start button immediately when time appears on display the program starts but only for 2 seconds and then it skips to safety mode draining the water.

It starts draining after 2-3 seconds from program selection is made regardless whether I press Start or not.

There are videos showing  those first 2-3 seconds of  different programs ( Cotton, Intense Dry, Drum Clean) . 

In left lower corner of the display is STATUS led coming on for those 2 seconds and then coming off as the program is aborted.

 

 

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Thanks for the clarification Jan. It's just that once a programme has started you are not allowed normally to press any more buttons so it is normal for them to start beeping and do nothing once you have started the programme. It is very strange that the machine starts draining when you have not pressed the start button. If when it starts draining before you have pressed the start button what happens if you leave it? Is that when it produces an error? Unfortunately it doesn't look like a straightforward simple thing you can repair. Things like insulation or earth faults can cause weird behaviour in a washing machine. But you can't check for an insulation fault without a specialist insulation test meter.

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When program is selected but not started it will begin to drain for few minutes and will stop not producing any error code. It only produces an error code when selection  for an error reading is dialed. 

As I get it it detects a fault after 2 seconds and starts pumping the empty tub out regardless whether a various program is selected and started of or not. 

I have thought that one of the relay on PCB could be fried but then I'm confused that it would have those 2 -3 seconds delay to react and send it to drain and abort.

As you say it might be some insulation or earth faults, which I'm not able to measure. I have to say that all of the earth connectors were pretty loose with not much of a grip which I have made a bit better. 

I saw some diy insulation test meters around £50 mark , do you think that would do the job to measure?

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If it tests using 500v DC that would work. But it's still a lot of money to spend just to test a washing machine. It's not even certain it will find anything. It might not be that much more to get a proper engineer in, and they should tell you exactly what's wrong and even may fix it if it isn't anything too serious.

The pump shouldn't have any power, have you tried safely disconnecting the live wire on the pump to see what happens? It's probably a waste of time but it might do something different.

Maybe the PCB does some self checks when switched on and is finding something. However, it should abort and give an error code after detecting a fault. If it thought it was overfilling it might operate the pump but it would operate it for much longer as it is trying to get rid of a lot of water. If it thought it was overheating it would operate the pump too. But for longer, and machines I've seen reacting to overheating usually combine that with letting water in to cool everything down.

So the fact that it misbehaves before even any wash cycle is selected or attempted implies it's failing a self check, or there's a fault on the pcb. If determined not to give up you could at least eliminate the pcb by sending it to QER repairs for testing and possible repair. But apart from I'd like to know what it turns out to be it remains a big gamble with your time and money.

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When the machine is plugged into mains it performs some check, interesting fact is that the door lock remains locked at all time.

When the selection is left on OFF it doesn't go into draining, only when the program selection is made and program either started or not.

To be honest I have left the machine draining until it stops itself only couple of times when I acquired it as I'm not sure if it is safe for the pump to be running dry. So I have to try  that again to see if it produces any error itself. From what I understood from the manual it only shows the type of error which can be rectified by consumer.

I think I will try to send the PCB for a test to QER next week as you suggest, I haven't found this type of PCB in their order search though so I hope they will be able to test it.

 

 

 

 

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Great to know it won’t hurt the pump running dry, coffee machine brass pumps don’t like that at all. 

I contacted QER this morning, tech who repairs these PCB’s is back at work on Monday so will get to know more then. 

Happy weekend. 

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So I was in contact with QER tech over the last week exchanged few short messages about the symptoms . He suggested that the PCB is not at fault in his opinion and generally was reluctant for me to send the board to test, he pointed to pressure sensor fault or possible earth leakage. I mentioned that I replaced the sensor and blown in it to try create different pressure to what he replied that this can damage the modern sensor.

I was confused whether I've blown into the replacement sensor I got yet before I installed it so I bought another new replacement which when fitted in didn't make any change to the behavior.  I then decided to buy new wires to the sensor to replace the whole pressure sensor circuit for new as I though the machine stood in showcase property and what if it never worked for some silly error and because faulty it was placed there by developer.

The wire arrived today and as soon as I compared it to one on the machine the new wire connector had different guides on it which corresponded with other port on PCB which was not occupied. I tried to plug it there disconnected the original  and VOILA ! 

                                                                                                 PROBLEM FIXED!!

The sensor was plugged in wrong port on PCB hence it was not picking up the feed from the sensor and kept switching the flood protection on.

I have done a wash and dry today and works perfectly.

It would have been clear immediately if there was a wiring diagram available, as such I must say it got repaired by luck. 

I have no clue why the connector would have been placed in wrong port, if it was repaired for other fault and then wrongly assembled and written off, no idea.

I wanted to thank you Andy, for your kind advice and guidance through the course of testing. I have never had washing machine opened before and with your help I was able to begin understand how such machine works in principal. THANK YOU!!!

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Wow. The odds of you finding that are very remote. It's ridiculous that any connector would fit in the wrong place on a pcb. Bad design. Well done for not giving up.

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I was so happy that I didn't inspect the original connector properly and just reconnected to correct port to save myself stripping whole grid of wires. It had comparing to the new connector one of the plastic guide on its frame missing. Not sure if it was filed off or some misfit from production hence I think it fitted in the wrong port on PCB. 

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