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Hello all i have checked the troubleshooting page and not got anywhere. we have chemically tasting water from the kitchen tap. After contacting our water supplier we have isolated the issue to the washing machine. I've been told its the non return valve failing. Speaking to many people I'm not sure what this is. would it be classed as the inlet valve and if so would this cause water from the machine ending up in the drinking water from the tap. P.S once isolated from the water supply the water from the kitchen tap tastes fine. Also the water from the bathroom taps tastes fine also weather washer is connected or not. 

Thank you for any help on this one.

its a hotpoint wmfg741g

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I've not heard of any nonreturn valves failing, but then again that is an issue related to plumbing rather than the washing machine so I'm not 100% sure. So if it is the nonreturn valve that is failing, or potentially that there is no nonreturn valve fitted in your tap - a new water tap supplying the washing machine sounds like the answer to your problem. As far as I know most washing machine taps don't have a nonreturn valve fitted inside them. Make enquiries with a plumber about water valves for the washing machine with a nonreturn valve inside.

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Hi. The non return valve needs to be on the water tap to stop water from the fill hose that is trapped and under pressure because the washing machine isn't taking in water from getting back into the copper cold water pipework on the plumbing.

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Try a Google search for non return tap and you will see more info and pics :)

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It would have to be Google, Screwfix or a plumbers merchant 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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just a thought , have you removed the rubber washing machine water inlet hose and tried to clean out the inlet filter (a small round plastic mesh filter) maybe there is dirt/rust/limescale on the filters and its siphoning somehow back up to the drinking water tap? - i have known some machine manufacturers use metal filers and they have rusted - if you come across one of them see if you can change it to a plastic filter 

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Hello Andy. Yes it may well be worth checking that. If it is related to this then of course it won't stop water backing backup into the water supply, it would just mean it less detectable if it isn't being contaminated. A permanent solution would still need to be getting a tap fitted that has anti-siphoning valve.

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I have removed the hose and the inlet valve. I've cleaned the inlet valve up. I haven't looked at the hose but I shall do. The machine is also leaking now but unrelated as the rubber around the door has split slightly. I did manage to fix it awhile ago with layers of glue. Which has lasted about a year. But has now stared to drip through. 

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yes i have done that before as well on washing machines where the door rubber gasket has had a couple of minor splits and fixed it with superglue and its lasted for ages

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That's remarkable. I would never have expected superglue to hold under the stresses and strains of a bouncing drum and door seal. I used to use a bicycle tyre repair kit. With great success. I used to peel off the door seal and fix it to the back so it wouldn't be exposed to all the water. I'd roughen up the area with the supplied sandpaper and fit a large patch to it. Worked very well. Of course I always replaced the door seal as a first choice but sometimes the customer couldn't afford a new seal or it was decided a temporary repair would be OK.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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I found out the best was proper Loctite superglue - there are cheaper versions of superglue in the pound shops and they were rubbish think they must water them down or something very runny and not as strong as Loctite. Thats good idea, never thought of a bicycle puncture repair kit to do it. 

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