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BOSCH WVG30461GB WASHER/DRYER NOT DRYING


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That's an unusual fault Roger, it doesn't make a lot of sense because water in the drum normally means the washing machine isn't pumping the water out properly. But if that was the case it wouldn't complete a wash cycle without error. During drying water constantly trickles into the condenser chamber at the back. This water mixes with the steam blown into the condenser so that it condenses back into water. The water is then pumped away.

So the pump should be running on the drying cycle, if not constantly, then every so often frequently. If for some reason it wasn't that would allow a buildup of the water. Apart from checking everything is working there's nothing much else to suggest, the heater, fan, water valve and pump all need to operate on the drying cycle.

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  • 4 months later...

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here.

So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. 

Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic.

Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks.

Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well.

Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. 

Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle.

And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel. 

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Many thanks Chris. Great photos. That fan is seriously blocked. The only thing I can think of that keeps causing such buildup of lint, which is supposed to be pumped down the drain, is if the whole of the venting system for the dryer is reeking with condensation and steam. That would allow the lint to stick to the sides and the fan blades instead of being blown through and finding its way into the bottom of the tub where it should mix with water then be pumped away down the drain.

The fact that this seems to be a very common problem means either these designs or just flawed and not fit for purpose, or potentially too many people are overloading the dryer causing it to struggle to deal with the steam. I honestly don't know which.

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I’ve been very careful with the loading, making sure that the 5kg drying limit (8kg wash) isn’t exceeded and with the drum clean run monthly as per the instructions. 
 

Either way it’s now a lot easier to remove the fan assembly now that I’ve cut that ridiculous obstruction off. Whipping the fan out is now a simple 10 minute affair and a worthwhile modification.
 

Will revisit the fan in 6 months or so and post an update on the condition. 

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19 hours ago, DunkyGee said:

I am currently half way through disassembling my Bosch to clean the condenser fan, and came across this. Can I not remove the rear or side panels to get to the fan rather than use a circular saw?

You can take the screws off the top if the fan unit and the top will move far enough to access the fan to remove the lint, but it is very fiddly and time consuming. We did this, but a couple of months later the sensor has tripped again.

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  • 2 months later...

Thank you so much for the advice given on this page, I was having to reset the thermostat switch constantly until the other night when we could start to smell burning, switched off immediately obviously!!!

i took the leap after having to buy a torx screwdriver set first and managed to dismantle enough to find the motor fan and wedged it open enough to clean offending fluff so much of it. I did notice underneath the sticker on the motor that the fan is help onto the housing using a circlip, I did wonder if I removed that would I be able to remove the top and then lift the fan out (without the need to use a metal saw?) on the occasion I didn’t try it in case I couldn’t fix it back on) but may try next time.

Just to say thanks again for giving me the inspiration to try it I have so far run 2 fluff cycles a quick wash and am currently drying towels, there is no smell of burning the heat is good and the thermostat hasn’t tripped.

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  • 4 months later...

Just to add to this thread really that the advice given is golden. My Bosch drier also stopped drying. Having taken the top off using the two screws at the back (was very stiff, thought I was breaking a clip or something sliding it back and up), I followed what everyone else has done and also found the impeller really clotted up with rock hard fibres. Not as bad as Chris' but not far off. I spent about half an hour with a small screwdriver going through the small gap you can get with the top member still preventing you from removing the fan, with the hoover sucking out as I went. Reset the jumpers and was confident, especially when I felt it heating up on the test dry. However, the cycle finished and it was all wet and cold still. Checked the over-heat switches and they had tripped again. Reset and started a new cycle to try and see what was happening and the fan obviously wasn't going. So I got the grinder out and chopped away enough of the metal cross member to get the fan out. The plastic housing it rested in was also completely caked in fibres so I cleared all that out (plus clear off the metal insert below the bowl - looks like some sort of temp sensor, which was also fully caked), put it back together, reset the jumpers and tried another test. The fan is now working, I can feel heat more through the glass than through the lid, & it's finished a drying cycle. Looks like the whole surround is prone to clogging. In retrospect I would not have just done the half measure of cleaning through a 1" crack. Even if it had fixed the problem it would definitely be much better to go the extra yard to clean it out properly (either with a grinder or doing it the proper way and removing the upper rear and upper top bars), if only to prolong the time between having to do this. Personally I'm good with having taken a grinder to it, I am resolved to needing to do this periodically and this mod will make it much easier.

So, thanks everyone. Have bookmarked this forum.

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  • 3 months later...

Reawakening this topic......

Same machine, no heat when drying, trip pops, reset trip, pops after a while drying. 
Look on this forum (thanks everyone for posting) for info to get the fan off — struggle as you all have here -  why did they design this machine in this way? 
Eventually lift fan enough to examine fan blades - big disappointment - hardly any fluff deposit!

So figure that the blockage may be further along maybe in the tunnel over the drum to the front door seal area? Decide I need a thin torx driver rather than my hex set as it won’t fit through the frame holes - but no - someone has been here before me and not refitted the screws! Only been a BG service engineer inside prior to my visit..! So will separate top of the heater box assembly and check for blockage next, this being easier with two less screws. Tomorrow. No patience left now ! 
Will update with progress in case others have had these issues, but with an unclogged fan.

 

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I have an article here about a washer dryer (or tumble dryer) not heating which includes a section on tripping TOCs. See if it helps.

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Hi Andy - this is good background info, thank you.  I have just realised in my single minded attempt to fix the darn machine I forgot to introduce myself as a new member! So “Hello” to the forum! 
I’m pretty good with electrics/electronics so all the more obvious fault finding steps I had taken proved the basics of the machine to be ok. So this was likely something physically retarding air flow and then causing local overheating at the element?
Next steps taken :

Carefully vacuum all airways with a thin flexible extension to Karcher wet and dry Vac. 
Remove the cover to the heater chamber after carefully prising all the sections apart. Vacuum again - a sensor in the last section of duct dropping down to drum wa heavily clogged. Gave the now fully visible fan a good clean although it wasn’t too bad. Checked the machine drain hose and catch filter. Flexi pipe trapped presumably when reassembling after the drum bearing replaced.

Reattached earth tag to motor (!) whilst checking all electrical connection possibly same reason as above.

Correctly routed some small hoses near the condenser unit. These attached to some sort of pressure switches?

Reassembled all parts of top duct and fan housing. Retrieved some lost screws left by a previous “visitor” .Checked the socket correctly wired, and earth continuity on machine and switched on - no pops and all fine. 
Quick wash two small towels all ok no leaks. Gentle heat dry cycle OK for 30 min no trip. Intensive dry 30 mins ok. 
Full load of bedlinen cotton cycle all ok, separated into two drying loads on intensive auto - worked as if new! Currently hoping it’s now fixed....

Things that may have caused the problem - trapped hose to some kind of water flow sensor to condenser? 
The clogged sensor at front of duct to drum? Fluff build up maybe but fan looked ok?

Apologies for great detail but thought info may be useful to someone looking for the same solution!

Bosch have sent me an exploded diagram of the machine if this is any use here?  However no key to the part numbers! 
 

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Thanks Bob. Very useful 

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  • 3 months later...

Great forum here. Great discussion. I have my own story to tell...

We have this Bosch 7/4 Maxx washer dryer combo that is six years old (WVH28340EU/01). We only used the dryer function on our bathroom towels and dry everything else on the rack. Bed sheets hang on doors. Towels dried on the rack feel like sandpaper. so yeah, we tumble dry the towels.

A complete wash/dry cycle takes forever so my wife used to set the timer before bedtime and the towels would be fresh & warm when we woke up in the morning. Life is so good when things work like they are supposed to.

Then it  (the Gentle & Intensive dry functions) stopped working. The circuit breaker to the washer (and fridge) popped in the night.

I prefer to fix things myself and I really tried to diagnose and fix this problem. I gave up. Google was not helpful. It was almost useless. So I called an appliance repairman... sorry, engineer, which I found, of course, on Google.  It did not go well.

We simply moved from simply useless to worse-than-useless.

To be continued... /2

 

 

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Part II - Call in the professionals

I selected a site that looked quite professional. They advertised a 30 min diagnosis for a flat €65. Two guys showed up that did not look anything like the guys on the website. I already had the machine pulled out from under the counter which is not easy at all because it is so damn heavy. More on that later. I also had the top off. Only two machine screws (Torx 20) hold the top in place.

The mechanic guy disconnected two thingys, measured something with his meter and muttered something to the point man with the phone. The point man told us it would cost €175 to repair. We agreed. The mechanic then removed the two thingys  and gave them to the point man who went to the truck to get some replacements. The point man returned with 2 other thingys and the mechanic installed them. The point man declared it was fixed.

We asked him to test it. He turned on a dry cycle, let it run for 5 minutes and said yeah, there is heat and declared everything was fine. We asked for a receipt. He went on his phone and emailed us a receipt for the gross amount. He said there was a 1 year guarantee and if there was a problem,  just call.

And with that, they left, exactly 35 minutes after they arrived. They refused to move the machine back under the counter, leaving it where I had pulled it out for them because "it was too much work". OK. They were jerks, as unfriendly as any I have encountered. Fine. I have dealt with jerks before. As long as everything works.

It didn't work. I tossed in a rack-dryed sandpaper towel that was so stiff it could stand on it's own. Two hours and 30 minutes later after an intensive dry cycle, it came out as a damp rag.

We phone them back. Houston... we have a problem. They said they would be back 3 days later.

In the meantime I learned a lot about Bosch washer dryer combos. I did not expect these guys to return, but they did. I was ready to file a police report for fraud and theft, even if there was no point.

Next - Part III - Let's try to make this right, shall we?

 

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Part III - Let's Try to Make This Right, Shall We?

The story so far: My Bosch Washer-Dryer combo was to not drying. I called in the professionals. In 35 minutes they have diagnosed the problem, replaced two thingys, tested the dryer function, prepared and emailed us an invoice for €175.45 and had €145.75 debited from our bank account.

Yes, those last two numbers don't jive. They are supposed to be the same. Somebody might have dyslexia. Maybe both of us. Nobody noticed that difference until later. That was not all that went wrong.

The machine still did not dry, so I had another look. I had 3 days to stew about this failure and research the problem on the internet. Here is the top view of the machine with the dryer ventilator shown. The black rectangle highlights the two thingys that were replaced(?). I watched the mechanic remove them and later install them.

TopView3.thumb.jpg.c5807164f30d369edc8392bfb2d0f3d1.jpg

Those two thingys are thermal limiters or Thermal Overload Cutoffs (TOCs) on some sites. They are shown below along with a picture of the part from the Bosch website. I believe they work like circuit breakers. If the temperature is too high, the switch pops and opens a circuit. I believe if you press on the green button between the contacts, you can reset the breaker. One of the TOCs even has 155 C printed on the side.TOCs.thumb.jpg.48b297236c55a10159f6a6484e6a2167.jpg

I found the part on the Bosch-home website. I can order this online and have it in a couple of days. Two of them cost less than €13 retail.

Doing the math  - €175 less €65 (for 30 minutes of labour as advertised) means we paid €110 for parts that we could buy for €13.

I was more than a little upset. We would have been happy if the problem was solved but it wasn't. I wasn't even convinced the parts had been replaced. They did not leave us the original pieces.

After I figured out what happened (3 days is a long time in the internet age) I was convinced they would never show their faces again. But the phone number was local and the invoice showed an address and tax (VAT) number.

Much to my surprise, three days later they returned.

Part IV - They made me an offer I should not have refused

 

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Part IV - They Made Me an Offer I Should Not Have Refused

Despair2.jpg.740b0f209ee0d07fa1242b382578b129.jpgThe appliance repair guys have returned. I have the machine pulled out and the top removed for their convenience. They sense I am upset without much discussion. More diagnostic work happens and the guy with the Miele/Bosch/Siemens Formula One team jacket determines the ventilator fan needs to be replaced. It's not spinning. They missed that on the first visit. The point man with the phone , who has been talking to another customer in English, suddenly forgets how to speak English with me who can't speak Dutch.

Fortunately my wife is fluent in Dutch. He shows her the part that he needs to order from Bosch.  It's €145 retail but he can buy it for €95 according to the display on his phone which he does not want to show to me. My wife is an accountant. She notices stuff like that.

He then offers to replace the fan for the price of the part (€145) with no additional labour costs. After paying almost €100 more than we should have for parts that I was not even sure were actually replaced, I said "feck You! No Thank You. How about you give us back the original parts and a full refund?"

Unfortunately, the original parts have been discarded we are told. I reply "Fine, remove the parts you replaced, take them with you, and give us a full refund."

We eventually settled for €80 refund for the parts they installed. They left them installed because they, uh, discarded the original parts. They had diagnosed the problem that I missed so suppose I owed them that much.

heaterFan.thumb.jpg.05e58b5b2829cf054de8a43311784315.jpgOpenHeaterFan.thumb.jpg.6e65df5f42686584f6e25c31ed1e0d74.jpgAfter they left,  I open the ventilator plenum and open the fan casing to have a look. Nothing is plugged-up from lint as discussed in the previous posts in this thread. I set out to determine how much work it would be to replace the fan. I start taking things apart.

VentilatorParts.thumb.jpg.e48e9fc5f1b9287cbb5244ab5f00e87a.jpgOMG. You have to dismantle everything and hoist the whole assembly out. It's like replacing an engine in a car. I replaced a car engine many years ago. The only difference is that you don't need to rent an engine hoist.

I think it is at least 2-3 hours of work. I easily spent that time taking everything apart and putting it back together just to see if I can do it.  Everything still works which really surprised my wife.

I still have not ordered the fan. It's €145 for chrissakes!

Part V - Will this ever end?

Edited by DiogenesVS
spelling and stuff
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  • 3 months later...

Hi DiogenesVS. Apologies for not replying to your comprehensive posts before. If the cuttouts have failed or tripped it is almost always because the dryer has overheated and that has been caused by something else. It is possible for one of these small stats to go faulty for no apparent reason, but they are generally an extremely reliable part. Any competent engineer who finds one of them to have failed, or suspects one of them to have failed would make extensive checks to find out why.

There are several possible reasons why a washer dryer may overheat, which are covered in my article here Washer dryer not heating on dry cycle 

If no other fault is found then it is wise to advise the customer that no reason for the failure has been found, and that there is a fair chance that replacing these parts will fix the machine - but there is also a possibility that some intermittent fault currently undetectable could cause them to fail again. It's a shame that you didn't get full refund because essentially they failed to fix the fault so that's what you were definitely entitled to, but at least you got something back.

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