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Tricity Bendix WDR1040W Spin Problem


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Hi to everyone, this is my first post and hope there's an answer to my problem.

My machine washes without any problem but when it comes to the spin I have to leave it for an hour before I can get it to do a short spin. The long spin starts to build up speed a few times then ends program. It's as if something is getting overheated during the wash cycle but what I don't know. I have renewed the carbon brushes thinking this would solve the problem to no avail.Could you tell me what the censor on the end of the motor does ? 

Motor: C.E.Set

Hope to find the solution from one of you guy's Thank's in advance

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I would think it unlikely that something is overheating although I can see your logic in suspecting that. When a washing machine gets to a spin section it slowly distributes the laundry whilst draining out the water. Before it goes into a fast spin it needs 3 things to happen. First all the water has to successfully drain out, and then the machine needs to receive a signal from the pressure switch that the water has gone. Finally the out of balance sensing system needs to tell the machine that the load is nicely balanced.

If the problem is that a partial blockage prevents all the water pumping out properly then a second attempt might fix the issue but you should notice there is still water in the drum when it fails to spin. If it can't balance the load it will keep trying and stopping, then trying again, and again before eventually finishing the cycle without doing a fast spin - washing machine won't spin some loads - this problem should only really affect some loads and not all loads, but could be a fault on the out of balance system causing it to erroneously stop a spin. The other problem area is if the water pumps away ok but the pressure system is faulty or has a blockage then the machine doesn't spin because it thinks there's still water in the machine. All these things should be covered here washing machine not spinning at end of cycle

The coil at the end of the motor is the tacho coil and it's used to send information about how fast the motor is revolving. Faults on it usually cause the motor to either not work at all or spin constantly.

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6 hours ago, Whitegoodshelp (Andy) said:

I would think it unlikely that something is overheating although I can see your logic in suspecting that. When a washing machine gets to a spin section it slowly distributes the laundry whilst draining out the water. Before it goes into a fast spin it needs 3 things to happen. First all the water has to successfully drain out, and then the machine needs to receive a signal from the pressure switch that the water has gone. Finally the out of balance sensing system needs to tell the machine that the load is nicely balanced.

If the problem is that a partial blockage prevents all the water pumping out properly then a second attempt might fix the issue but you should notice there is still water in the drum when it fails to spin. If it can't balance the load it will keep trying and stopping, then trying again, and again before eventually finishing the cycle without doing a fast spin - washing machine won't spin some loads - this problem should only really affect some loads and not all loads, but could be a fault on the out of balance system causing it to erroneously stop a spin. The other problem area is if the water pumps away ok but the pressure system is faulty or has a blockage then the machine doesn't spin because it thinks there's still water in the machine. All these things should be covered here washing machine not spinning at end of cycle

The coil at the end of the motor is the tacho coil and it's used to send information about how fast the motor is revolving. Faults on it usually cause the motor to either not work at all or spin constantly.

Thank's Andy for your reply, the pump works fine and all water has been emptied. The problem is the same even if the machine has no washing in it, still short spin only works after waiting. I did get it to do the long spin when I removed the belt. So from what your saying it sounds like a faulty pressure switch could be the most likely cause.

Thank you Andy

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If the pressure system or switch doesn't give the signal that the water has gone it will never go into a spin, so if it spins only with the belt off it can't be pressure system related. A blocked pressure system can stop it spinning but allow a spin after some time has passed when the air pressure slowly escapes allowing the pressure switch to finally switch off although this would be with or without the belt on. If the motor is sparking a lot check the brushes. 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Hi Andy, this an update on my machine. I have changed the carbon brushes and put a new pressure switch in and I still have the same problem, I took the belt off again to see if it would do a short spin (will not even start to do a long spin), which it did up to nearly max spin but as it started too it ended the program without full spin speed. It now will not spin at all with the belt attached, so is this a motor problem or the timer/pcb switch ? If the door lock has a problem would this stop the machine spinning ?

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Door lock would only cause a dead machine. When it won't spin, if you disconnect the pressure tubing from the pressure switch and hear a click then it means an air blockage was holding the pressure switch on and it should then spin once the air pressure has released. If it makes no difference it could be a fault on the motor on pcb. I would not make a guess as to which, not worth the expense and risk.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Final update as I have found the problem. I read that the Film capacitor on the timer PCB could be failing on the spin cycle,so I have renewed it and now the machine works fine on both short and long spin. All this problem just for the sake of a £2.50 part.

1uf X2 275V Capacitor

1uF 275.jpg

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Thank you for the update. Believe it or not engineers don't officially repair the PCBs. We've never been taught to, and they never supply any parts for them. However, as you have shown, it is possible to repair them sometimes if it is a standard part readily available elsewhere and you get help about what could be wrong.

Need a repair or spare parts? 

Book a Repair | Buy Spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed)

Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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