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Hi, I've got a Hoover DYN 9164DPG and today mid cycle it came up with an E03 message. Google says this is a drain problem? I opened the drain filter line and a fair bit of water came out but both the drain line and filter seem to be clear and the pump is turning ok.

Even now with the machine fully drained it still won't go on to a spin cycle and the pump keeps running. I took the hose off the pressure switch and that seems clear too. Could the switch itself be broken?

Many thanks, Rich.

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If it is actually a drain problem, which persists when the water has definitely gone then it's possibly getting misinformation from the pressure system telling it the water is still in there when it isn't. This is most often caused by a blockage in the pressure system but any blockage would release as soon as you disconnected the pressure system tubing. If there was a blockage you would hear a click when the tube was removed as the air escaped. If removing the pressure tubing didn't make it spin then a faulty switch could cause the same symptoms.

Read up on the common causes of washing machine not spinning and especially the link explaining how the pressure system on a washing machine works which also contains links to common pressure system faults.

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HI i have a similar washing machine and having the same issue e03. What i have done so far is checked all pipes and pump, they seem to be clear. I have replaced the pressure switch and checked it has continuity which it does on both switches. I have blown down the pipe connected to the pressure switch that is all clear. Every now and then e06 comes up when i try and drain it so i checked the heater element and that has an ohm reading of 40ohms. The only other thing i have read is that the control board is at fault. Are there any other checks i can do before i replace this item?

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I've checked the switch too with a meter and it seems to be functioning and making/breaking the connection when I blow down it.

From what I've read I'm thinking I might need to change the pcb?

HI RichG sorry to jump in on your post just that I'm having the same problem as you.

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If you are sure it is only one level pressure switch and good continuity readings can be got on both sides of the switch then it implies the switch may be okay. Switches could potentially stick intermittently, but this would be likely to be because of bad overheating connection which shouldn't give a good quality continuity reading.


Pressure switches have traditionally been two levels, sometimes three. This is because they had a level for wash, a level for rinses and a level for flood protection. The latter would have a lot more wires, and a simple one level switch would probably only have three wires. In the past pressure switches sometimes could jam on one level so when you blew up it clicked once up and once back down, but it should have clicked twice up and twice down.


These days it's possible pressure switches could be more sophisticated and measure water pressure rather than have the simple on/off spring switch which operated at specific air pressures. So if it clicks up once and back down again, just make sure it is only one level device.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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If you are sure it is only one level pressure switch and good continuity readings can be got on both sides of the switch then it implies the switch may be okay. Switches could potentially stick intermittently, but this would be likely to be because of bad overheating connection which shouldn't give a good quality continuity reading.

Pressure switches have traditionally been two levels, sometimes three. This is because they had a level for wash, a level for rinses and a level for flood protection. The latter would have a lot more wires, and a simple one level switch would probably only have three wires. In the past pressure switches sometimes could jam on one level so when you blew up it clicked once up and once back down, but it should have clicked twice up and twice down.

These days it's possible pressure switches could be more sophisticated and measure water pressure rather than have the simple on/off spring switch which operated at specific air pressures. So if it clicks up once and back down again, just make sure it is only one level device.

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Just to clarify, I don't have codes for the specific model you mentioned but Error 3 on all the Hoover models I have is timed out on drain (usually 3 minutes). When the washer gets to a point where it pumps the water away it energised the pump and starts timing. If after 3 minutes, the pressure switch hasn't clicked off to register that most of the water has successfully drained out it decides there is a fault and stops with error 3.

This fault means either the water hasn't gone from the machine, or it has gone, but it just thinks it hasn't. If the water hasn't drained away, or has only partially drained then it is usually caused by either the pump is faulty, or jammed, or blocked, or has an electrical connection fault, the pump filter is blocked, or there is a blockage in the sump hose, drain hose or even at the u-bend under the sink if plumbed in there. All these possibilities are touched on here - washing machine won't pump water away

OR, if the pump is working OK, and you can hear that a healthy flow of water runs out of the machine then if it doesn't realise the water has gone it should be a fault on the pressure system

The only faults on the pressure system that should prevent the pcb receiving the water has gone signal is (in order of likelihood) a blockage in the pressure chamber, a faulty or stuck pressure switch or a connection fault between the pressure switch and the pcb.

If all these scenarios have been discounted (including the connections between the pressure switch and the pcb) there's nothing else to account for it other than a pcb error but it's a big gamble to take. Check out Hoover's fixed price repairs which in some cases can be the best option if they replace a very expensive part.

Need a repair or spare parts? 

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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