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Help Diagnosing Zanussi Fx1265W Fault


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Hi. Wondering if anyone knows what a washing machine error code means.


Zanussi FX1265W. Error code is 3 flashes / beeps. The manual only lists 1, 2 and 4 flashes / beeps. I've Googled and searched here without any luck.


I've done some basic tests / maintenance. i.e. The machine will run it's draining program without error. It will run it's spin program without error. I've drained the machine completely and cleaned the pump. I've checked that the water inlet is unblocked. I've checked that the waste is draining okay.


If I try any wash program, then the machine will fill (as normal) but then drain straight away with the 3-beep error rather than spinning the drum. (I can see water filling in the drum when it's empty, so water is going in. The drum spins just fine on the spin program, so it can't be that. It drains just fine, so I don't think it's that.)


Extra info: either the machine tripped the RCD on the house's fuse board or it was running when the RCD was tripped by something else. It was further through a program that it's getting now (because the powder had been consumed, whereas it's not being consumed now). I've tried turning it off and on again at the socket.


Any ideas? Thanks!

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Update:

The pressure switch is doing something, because if I disconnect its hose, then the machine will overfill. Very carefully avoiding the electrics and holding my thumb over the hose leads to a build up of pressure that can be felt when slowly lifting the thumb. This implies to me that the pressure chamber isn't blocked and that the pressure switch is at least switching once. (I guess if it's a multi-level switch, then it's possible that another switch is stuck on and it's triggering an overfill or something as soon as it reaches the right level. Based on the number of wires, I'm guessing that it's at least a 2-level switch. I'll probably buy a multimeter and see if I can test it properly.)

The door lock is also doing something. It's a DL-S1. If I break the circuit by removing the pin that is effectively the output from the bi-metal device and put the machine all back together again, then the machine doesn't fill at all and I get a different error code (4 beeps). The door also takes a while to unlock, which implies to me that the bi-metal device is still working sufficiently to complete the circuit and trigger the mechanical switch that keeps the door locked. The door has been clicking multiple times before starting for a while now, but it seems to be working... and it didn't click multiple times after I'd had it apart and put it back together again. (I'm still getting the original 3-beep problem, though.)

I've sort of ruled out the heating circuit based on the fact that I'm just trying to get the rinse cycle to run, which I assume doesn't attempt to heat the water. Does anyone know if this is a valid assumption?

Thanks!

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Zanussi error codes usually start at E10 so I have nothing for just 3 beeps. However, if it aborts when the pressure switch activates check the heater to make sure it's not open circuit or has a leak to earth (the latter needs an proper insulation test meter though which you probably won't have). Also check the NTC (thermistor). When aborting during initial fill cycle it's usually related to overfilling or a fault detected in the heater or thermistor.

Relevant articles which might help -

Washing Machine Overfilling

Washing machine fills and drains at same time

Faults on pressure system

How to test an NTC thermistor

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Hi. Thanks for replying.

I've found the thermistor and got that out - eventually. Using a multimeter on the 20K ohms setting, I get a reading of ~4.4 when cold and dry, and I can get this to drop to ~1.1 by dipping it into a mug of water which my kettle things is about ~70 degrees. I don't know what the normal range is, but it is at least varying with temperature. So I think the termistor is working.

I struggled to get the heating element itself out. I had to go at it with a pair of pliers. It was absolutely caked in hairy gunk, which I imagine can't have been good for it. Anyway, I can't get any sort of resistance reading across the terminals at all, whatever I try. A test on an old kettle goes give a reading across that element, so I'm guessing that I do indeed have an open circuit in my heating element.

You're right: I don't have an insulation test meter. Given that it appears to have an open circuit, I assume this test is redundant and that I can just try popping a replacement element in at this stage. Does that sound sensible?

The washer is at about 9 years old and doesn't have a digital display. Beeps / flashes of the "End" LED are all I have to go on, unfortunately. Hopefully 3 beeps does indeed mean "knackered heating element".

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Spot on mate. Let us know how you get on and be careful refitting the heater as it needs to locate in a fixing bracket to stop the drum hitting it with a heavy load in. Read my article here which gives advice about the heater and how to refit it diagnosing, removing and reffitting the heater

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Also, as always, please consider buying the new heater from my affiliate appliance spares site which is run by the largest spares company in the UK and the small commission I get helps keep me running so I can continue writing articles and helping people.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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I fitted the replacement heating element last night. The most painful bit was getting the back cover back on properly... The machine is back up and running, and all is good.

I did consider using your affiliate link to order the part, but, to be honest, I just preferred another site. However, your advice was helpful - especially the bit about the fixing bracket, which I would have otherwise overlooked - and so if we can find a way to make it work, I'll happily donate the cost of a pint - assuming that's comparable (if not more valuable) than the commission you would have otherwise received. Do you have an email address you don't mind publishing here or something?

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No worries, thanks for the update it's good to see a good conclusion.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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