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Nikkei Nk Lb65E09 Misworking With Pictures And Videos


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Hello.

My first language is not English, please bear with me.

I don't know if I am going to find the problem here but let me tell you that this forum is awesome anyway. There should be more like it. Here it goes.

I have a Nikkei NK LB65E09.

It has max 4 years (2009 label inside)

It has known long periods of inactivity in a humid environment (80%) and only recently it's being used regularly.

It is level (I cleaned the floor and adjusted its feet) it does not lean to any side trying to shake it.

The belt is in tension and does not slip off.
Th engine turns with my hand and the brushes are still quite long.

I have studied the symptoms which are:
No suspicious noises apart from the blows (see below).

Centrifuge program with empty basket:

It does the first round almost normally but it seems short and weak.

The washing machine does not walk.
The following rounds, it tries to start (starting noise) and there is a tiny movement of the basket but it stops immediately. And so on till the end.

Centrifuge program with half or full basket:
It does the first round almost normally but it seems short and weak.

The tub inside hits left and right and the washing machine starts walking. The more I fill the basket the worse it gets.

The following rounds, it tries to start (starting noise) and there is a tiny movement of the basket but it stops immediately. And so on till the end.

40° cotton program with empty or full basket:

Water gets in at the start and goes out at the end normally.
Rounds seem normal (2 or 3 rotations) but they seem short and weak.

Unfortunately I don't know what a normal round is supposed to be (how many rotations)
After draining the water it doesn't centrifuge.

I add 4 videos to help with the diagnosis.
The first round is at the beginning of each video, the second (which represents all the rounds that follow) is at the end.

Centrifuge program without belt

Centrifuge program with belt (towel and t-shirt inside)

40° cotton program without belt

40° cotton program with belt (towel and t-shirt inside)

Pictures of the engine and of its brushes:

Side B i.imgur.com/R46sHeF.jpg
Side C i.imgur.com/dyNH2gz.jpg
Side D i.imgur.com/bnRYUy8.jpg

A look inside:
I wonder if the black mèches are normal.
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Welcome, and thanks. Take off the plastic cover on the end of the motor (as shown in your photo "Side C") and see if the small magnet has broken or become detached. There should be a small magnet which is firmly attached to the motor shaft and spins inside the small tacho coil. This is how the washing machine can tell how fat the motor is running. If this magnet comes off it cannot control the motor and will often try a couple of times then give up.

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Is the magnet secure on the shaft? If it spins on the shaft it will cause the fault. It should be firm on the shaft and although it may move if you put enough force into it - it should not spin freely. Is it held secure?

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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http://i.imgur.com/GJIqNaM.jpg (ring's neck)

http://i.imgur.com/F6PyVPm.jpg (plastic opening)

The "ring" is held firm in place by its black plastic "neck" being in between the engine metal structure and the plastic cover's opening on top, encircling it.

I can push/pull the ring's black neck (and so the ring) either up/down, forward/backward, left/right but I am talking of 1 millimeter and probably because of the "cheap product giveaway" plastic.

http://i.imgur.com/6SO4VMX.jpg

Next I removed the plastic and held the ring around the shaft with my hand: I have been able to turn the shaft from the other end of the engine.

http://i.imgur.com/K1T3pVJ.jpg

Next I put the ring back into its plastic cover and the two of them back on the engine. The plastic made a "snap into position" kind of sound.

The magnet is the black material within the ring? It doesn't move at all.

I suppose the 1st thing to try once I put the engine back in place is to find a way to apply pressure on this cheap plastic covering.

What do you advise I do next? I am willing to try anything.

Thanks again for the terrific help.

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The magnet is the round thing on the motor shaft, just in front of the motor bearing.

A broken or loose magnet is a common cause of this problem. If the magnet is secure then the only other things controlling the motor speed are the small tacho coil within the plastic housing that surrounds the magnet when it's fitted back in place (check it has a reading through it with a continuity test meter although it should have very high resistance - something like 140 Ohms.

After that the suspicion moves to connection faults somewhere or the main pcb but I wouldn't gamble on fitting a pcb as they are expensive and you will not get money back if it fails to fix the fault.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Yes, follow the 2 thin wires from the coil under the plastic housing you removed and test across them both to check the reading of the tacho coil.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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OK this is what I have done:

1)

I have set the multimeter to 200 ohm.

Multimeter shows "1" on display.

2)

http://i.imgur.com/RINsnJq.jpg

Started with other 2 couples of cables you can see in the picture

There is a cable (first from top) which has 2 colours (yellow and green) but it seems to be all by itself... ? I ignored that one.

1st couple (small black one & blue one) display shows 02.7

2nd couple (big black one & white one) display shows 04.7

3rd couple (yellow one & yellow one - tacho coil) display shows 1 !!!

I was very happy when I saw that "1"... but I'll wait your more professional judgement before I start celebrating! Did I finally find the problem?

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The tacho coil, which should have 2 much thinner wires than the rest should give a reading but the resistance should be fairly high as it's a very thin and long wire wrapped into a coil. If it's showing very low resistance that doesn't sound right. I have an Indesit washing machine motor here which reads around 135 Ohm

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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Thanks!

No matter what ohms setting I use (2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200) tacho coil circuit always returns "1" whereas the other circuits return either 0 or anything below 1.

From what I understand:

1 = max resistance = open circuit eg. probes touch nothing)

0 = min resistance = closed circuit eg. probes touch each other (might be near 0)

There is definitely something wrong with it and will buy a replacement (I have to find out from where first)

I was worried I would have to change motor or pcb but I read around tacho coil is very cheap, so I am :)

I hope there is nothing else broken of course, but that would be really bad luck!

I will keep you updated!

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Yes, let us know how you get on please. I removed the link in case it's dodgy or been hacked or something or just because it's such a rubbish site it doesn't deserve a link. I've never heard of them, I wouldn't be surprised if you can't get any spares for it or even if they only sell the complete motor - good luck.

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Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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You are right we don't want such companies / websites to rank higher on Google.

That's exactly what I have been told on the phone, to change the complete motor.

I am going this afternoon to talk to their technical guy first.

If I am told the same should I try a tacho coil from another company that looks the same?

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It's a disgrace how many manufacturers are refusing to supply spare parts to repair motors and other parts. They must be deluding themselves into thinking they will earn more money but it just usually results in their customers scrapping the machine and buying another brand. I used to be able to buy every single part for a motor down to small circlips, the magnet and even nuts & bolts. Some do still supply them but if they don;t for yours it would be uncertain what would happen if you tried a similar looking one or even that it would fit. If it did fit, it may or may not work but I suppose you've not much to lose trying if determined. It's possible speeds could be different. I would be cautious about buying a complete motor as it's likely to be pretty expensive and not 100% certain it will fix the fault.

Need a repair or spare parts? 

Book a Repair | Buy Spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed)

Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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It was a waste of petrol going there.

He said a new engine is euro 110 (that's half price of this crappy washer I bet)

He said they don't have ANY washer that you can buy a tacho coil alone, no matter the brand.

He said you can't even buy new brushes LMAO.

I rented a house here in Perugia for a couple of months only, if I can't find this spare part some other way soon I will just use a laundry.

There is written "ELTEK" on the tacho coil, I'll check that out.

I am really grateful to you for all the help you have given me but I am afraid this story does not have an happy ending.

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It's a shame but no surprise. Sounds like a cheap and cheerful not very repairable brand. Sadly most manufacturers are playing the same game but you can buy a few tacho coils as demonstrated on my spares site here - washing machine motor tacho coils

Need a repair or spare parts? 

Book a Repair | Buy Spares (Cheapest prices guaranteed)

Warning:  Read this before attempting any diy repairsNo representations or warranties are made (express or implied) as to the reliability, accuracy or completeness of advice. I can't be held liable for any loss arising directly or indirectly from the use of, or any action taken in reliance on, any information on this website, which is given free of charge and in good faith.

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I would have bought them already had I been in the UK :(

Besides I don't know what the numbers on the tacho coil mean,

On one side there is an arrow pointing to "1".

On the other side there is an arrow pointing to "11" with 0 and 8 on each side of the arrow.

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