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Found 8 results

  1. We have a washing machine plumbed into (cold water only) a non-mains supply from a low header tank in our flat. An old 1bar minimum machine (Bosch) used to repeatedly time-out on fills. Could be prodded to carry on from where it had left off, but pretty annoying. We eventually (when that broke) replaced that with an AEG which supposedly worked down to 0.5bar and that did seem to be much better behaved. But recently it too started misbehaving. Timeouts on fills, but also the conditioner drawer compartment didn't seem to be getting any water.... instead of dripping through the roof above the conditioner, the water just seemed to be dripping down at the back of the drawer. Checked and cleaned all the intake pipes and strainers. No obvious issues and no improvement . Checked the water pressure by a "bucket fill" test: 3-4litres/minute. Which is interesting, because back in February 2009 I posted on your article here https://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/low-water-pressure-and-washing-machines/comment-page-4/#comments that we were getting 5. Some information with the old Bosch machine claimed the 1bar minimum should produce 8... so something seems to have happened to reduce our water pressure below the machine's 0.5 bar minimum (and so not too surprising we were now having issues). Unfortunately the header tank is pretty inaccessible (in fact I only just discovered where it is; what I thought was it actually turned out to be for the central heating's pressurization), and it has so far strongly resisted attempts to get a closer look at it. Maybe this is all down to something as simple as a dead mouse blocking the tank outflow... but if it is I've no idea how we're going to do anything about it. So instead I went down the route of what your low-pressure article said not to bother trying and got hold of a flow-activated pump. Sticking a takeaway container in the detergent-and-conditioner drawer got me an estimate that the machine would take 0.75litres/minute when the intakes were activated, so I looked for the lowest flow-activation I could find and got one which triggers on 0.5l/minute (most are up nearer 1l/minute it seems). Pump claims to be 2bar pressure BTW. Initially it looked like it was going to work pretty well: with the pump assisting, the flow into the machine became a magnificent cascade (compared with how it had looked before anyway) and it filled in record time. However, there seems to be a fatal flaw. On the machine's quickest 30 minute wash, the pattern of intake (there are a couple of electronic-activated valves at the machine intake, each controlling a pipe to the detergent or conditioner compartment sides of the drawer) seems to be: 1. Via the detergent drawer. Full pumped flow. Great! 2. Via the conditioner drawer. However valve seems to only partially activate and flow is insufficient to trigger the pump. With the pump in the circuit, flow is even more of a trickle than it was before and we get a timeout and the conditioner drawer doesn't get any water. 3. Via the conditioner drawer again but this time the intake valve seems to fully open, the pump kicks in and the conditioner drawer gets flushed/syphoned out. Great! 4. Via the detergent drawer again for a final rinse. Full pumped flow. Great! Further, we note that on the "wool wash" cycle the initial fill also seems to do the thing with the initial fill that it only partially opens the detergent-compartment intake and water just trickles in (resulting in timeouts of course). So, not a success or a solution. The thing which really surprised me was that the intake valves seem to be able to select between (at least) a couple of flow rates... I'd have assumed they'd have no need to be anything other than either on or off, and if they did just do that, the pump would probably be a pretty good solution. In fact I did initially think there might be some issues with the valves "sticking" but the flow pattern seems to be so consistent between cycles it must be under the machines control. I'm quite curious as to what the reason for it is though. However, looks like a real solution will involve figuring out the reason for the pressure drop and/or getting at that inaccessible header tank. Or getting the machine plumbed into the main (which must pass quite near it on its way under the flat to the kitchen). Either way, looks like time to get a pro in.
  2. Hi we've just bought a brand new zanussi washer dryer Z716WT83BI from ao had previous zanussi washer dryer for over ten years nice and quiet reasonably reliable apart from pumps wearing out. This one however is driving us round the bend whenever we use the dryer the pump runs constantly. Is this normal? Heres a vid we uploaded to youtube. https://youtu.be/kgD7Hmcuquc Any ideas? Thanks Steve
  3. I have a brand new WDD 030 washing machine. The only issue is that when the water drains, there is an unpleasant "knocking" or "gurgling" sound that seems to come from behind the dispenser drawer. The Miele agent stripped down the machine and has taken a video of the issue to discuss with Miele. Could this be a problem with the pump? If so, would a new pump be any better?
  4. Hi I have an LG washing machine which is about 13 years old now and not required any repairs until today. So I am very pleased with it on the whole. It is a model WM-14331FD but I think my question would apply to most LG models. Today the pump stopped working. I got the pump mechanism out and found there were 2 identical pumps, one for emptying the the machine and the other for spraying water back up to the top of the drum during some cycles. I applied power direct to the pumps on the bench and sure enough the emptying one was not working. Rather than just buying a new one, I dismantled the pump to see how it had failed. The pumping chamber containing the impeller was clean. However, the motor chamber was full of thick smelly gunge. I cleaned it out and it worked again. I was surprised by the design of the motor since there had been little effort in the design to keep water out of the motor chamber, in fact I think it is designed to let water seep in. I opened the other pump and it also had a lot of filthy black gunge in the motor chamber, though not so much as to stop the pump rotating. You might be thinking how could an electric motor work when full of water, well it it is a brushless design with a permanent magnet rotor and external coil stator. The magnets in the rotor are indeed encapsulated in a waterproof plastic cylender. So it is plain that what had happened is that dirty water had seeped into the motor chamber and over 13 years dirt and bacteria had concentrated around the rotor and jammed it. My questions are:- Am I correct in thinking the motor chamber in these pumps is supposed to fill with water (perhaps to aid cooling and lubrication)? Is this a common design feature with other washing machine pumps? If not, do the (non-existent) "seals" fail like this very frequently Can anyone tell me a tried and tested routine for stopping dirt and bacteria from building up in the extraction/recirculation system. Interesting points: Although the LG is made in Korea, the pumps were made in Italy type Plaset 63096 Both the small service drain pipe and the recirculation pipe were also crammed with dirt and completely blocked. Thanks for all your anticipated replies Mike
  5. This isn't so much a question as a repair report, hope that's appropriate. I've spent the last couple of days exploring this machine which was making a very rough buzzing noise. Having decided that the problem was the drain pump (smelly water, washing wetter than expected, development of noise) I consulted youtube and various discussions for advice. There are quite a few vids and threads giving detailed instructions but all seemed to be discussing a slightly different model to mine and the disassembly for mine turns out to be much easier than most advice would suggest. If like me you did a search for "LG drain pump" and have seen the LG disassembly vids that talk about removing the door seal and the front panel, pause briefly and check if you have a separate small (kick) panel at the bottom. If so there is no need to mess about with removing the lid, door seal and front panel. Just lever off the kick panel with a screwdriver and the white plastic box on the left (2 screws and slide to the right) to access the pump assembly. You will find the 3 pipes held on with spring clamps, the smaller ones are easy enough to remove but the bigger one is a pig. Wide pliers or adjustable pliers are best. Take a picture of the wiring before removing the wires (yeah, wise after the event). Replacing the pumps is fairly straightforward and is well covered on Youtube but replacing that big pipe proved a proper struggle for me and is the main reason I decided to share. Take the spring clamp out, squeeze the tabs together and loop a cable tie over them to keep the spring under tension (opening the clamp), pull tight. Slip the clamp back over the pipe, re-attach the pipe and when you're happy with the position, cut the cable tie with a sharp blade, careful to avoid the pipe. The spring will close, holding the pipe fast. This is a much smaller job than it first appeared but I only know that now as I've spent two days finding out. The replacement motors (x2) are EAU61383505 which is a different part number to the old one 4681EA2001E(N) and other models shown on YT vids. Respect to this site for ongoing help.
  6. I'm happy to have just found this forum as my AEG-74600 started to emit this rattling sort of sound when pumping the water out. After a while it stopped and a "C2" message showed up in the LED display. Apparently this indicates a fault with the pump: So I did an emergency draining by with the emergency emptying hose followed by unscrewing the drain pump cover. I discovered that the green "propeller" or "fan" if you like was completely loose, and my first thought is that this is the cause of my problems. I assume its job is to "push" the water through that area and out, and being loose it probably won't pump the water out properly. Anyway, I guessed it was broken off, but upon closer inspection it appears just to have loosened but I can't seem to just screw it in place (the pump just spindle just moves if I try). Is there a special way to do this?
  7. Please see attached picture. About a year ago I had it replaced and now it has become blocked, probably by normal things like coins and shirt fasteners. Problem is as you may be able to see there is no valve to turn. Am I missing something really simple or was I being a bit simple when I trusted the repair guy as he's sold me one without a proper lid,,,, or even worse put it on backwards...? Please help .. Thanks ?
  8. Hoover Vision HD - VHD 9143 ZD Washing Machine What Happened I put in a big heavy carpet rug that probably shouldnt have gone in, but it fit in so I did. After pulling it out, it was a complete mess and I binned it. I also noticed that it was covered in a lacquer kind of gluey substance that was also present on the inside of the main glass door. I did 2-3 empty full temperature washes hoping it would pass, in the end I scrubbed it off with a sponge because it stayed. Then on the next wash of normal cloths, it seemed fine, but the cloths were covered in this lacquer type gluey stuff. So I put the same load back in a further 2-3 times but still it had this gluey stuff on it. Then a final time, I noticed that it filled up with water, then stopped with an error message and would not continue the wash. From memory, I think it was E03. After turning off and back on again, and telling it to begin a new cycle, I would successfully drain out the water, and start again. I would leave it, and come back only to find that the same has happened again. So this time I stayed with it, and shortly after beginning a cycle, I looked like it was struggling to turn the drum! Then to my surprise BANG! (And the dirt is gone! or not in this case!) There was a loud electrically sounding pop/bang from within, and the LCD started flickering the display. I immediately turned off at the switch, and gave it a few moments. After 20-30 mins, I tried to turn on again, but it just loops the flickering LCD... Ive taken the back off, and the top lid, and as an absolute novice, nothing looks out of the ordinary. In face it all looks brand new inside... Id really like to fix this myself with your support because as we all know money is tight and were all feeling it, so please someone help me out. Thanks
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