Jump to content
John Lewis give 2 year guarantee on white goods appliances


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Repair'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Washing machines
    • UK Washing Machine Repair Questions
    • Washing machines - general discussions
    • Washing machine reviews
    • Environmental issues
    • Mini washing machines. Small washing machines. Portable washing machines
    • Consumer issues
    • What's on the main Whitegoodshelp site?
  • Washing machine brands
    • AEG washing machines
    • Ariston washing machines
    • Beko washing machines
    • Bosch washing machines
    • Candy washing machines
    • Hoover washing machines
    • Hotpoint washing machines
    • Indesit washing machines
    • Which brand to buy
    • ISE washing machine
    • John Lewis brand washing machines
    • LG Washing machines
    • Miele Washing machines
    • Samsung Washing machines
    • Siemens washing machines
    • Zanussi washing machines

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...

Found 11 results

  1. Hello there, I've had my Speed Queen for around 27 years, and she's only now started to give me problems. I've got the local repairman to give me a quote and he told me the following parts need to be replaced: Seal and hub kit; Top bearing; Bottom bearing; Belt; 2-double-hole brakes Given the washing machine's age, is it better to replace rather than repair? Also, the cost of the repair will come out to the same as cheaper top loader model. Many thanks for this wonderful forum!
  2. I have been remodelling my kitchen and have just had my old washing machine reconnected in it's new position by a plumber. I decided to try using the dryer for the first time in years and found it wasn't heating so thought I'd pull the machine out to see if there was a thermal cut out switch which could be reset. I didn't get very far because the machine hoses were only long enough to move the machine halfway out. I had told the plumber it would need longer hoses and it looks like he has extended the drainage hose slightly, but not the inlet - neither would allow the machine to come right out without disconnecting them. I have never had this situation with a washing machine before...is it normal, do I really need to disconnect the hoses when I want to move it out for service or repair, or should I get the plumber back to fit longer hoses?
  3. Fwx221as1 Frigidage washer: So my mothers washer is making a clicking sound when draining. It's not draining completely, but will drain with additional drain cycles. She also reported a burning smell, but I haven't replicated this. I took it apart, and there was no blockage, and the pump made the noise when it wasn't attached to any hoses and the housing off. I used a multimeter to confirm correct voltage(I'm bad with electric stuff so potentially did that wrong); I checked the pump electrical connection and the wire connected to the washer. I am assuming the pump is failing and will fail completely eventually. Should I order a replacement now, or no? Any other potential causes?
  4. My front loader wasn't draining properly so I tried to remove the filter and clean it but the cap was jammed. So after turning it on its side and unclipping the pipe I removed what looks like a filter sock. It's about an inch wide, 6 inches long and made of something like polar fleece with a small opening only at one end. Can't find reference to anything like this anywhere so just trying to confirm if its something that has slipped in and got jammed or whether this is a microfilter from further up the pipe that has come loose and jammed the pump. The other end of the pipe is connected with a clip held in place by a large hex head screw that I don't have a bit for. Just wanted to check before I go out and buy one. Photo of the object is below:
  5. Hi, I have a top load Amana washing machine. Yesterday I replaced the drive belt as well as the pump. After installing everything, I ran it to see if it worked and water spewed out of the pump. I went and got another pump and everything seemed to work. Today my daughter ran 4-5 loads of laundry through it and on the last load it began making a load motor type sound. She said it had a mechanical like smell. The washer appeared to be done but when she opened it, the washer had not drained. She tried to restart it and all it did was spin. It did not drain but there does appear to be a puddle on the floor in the rear of the washer. What could possibly be wrong with it now? Thank you
  6. We had a brand new zanussi delivered two days ago. I hooked it up without removing the transport bolts. It went into the spin cycle and began lurching. We turned it off, and now instead of starting the spin cycle, it just has a soft hum. The machine also stops randomly. We contacted the online store we bought it from and they are going to charge us for the visit and repair, so I'm going to try to fix this myself. Does anyone have any tips on what the problem might be or where I should focus my attention?
  7. HELP! With Dyson having "pulled the plug" on support and service of their washing machines without informing us directly - NO, I did NOT receive any such communication from Dyson as claimed and my washing machine was repaired and serviced 25th September 2012 less than a week before Dyson claim they informed everyone - are there any Dyson-washing-machine-engineers out there servicing my area looking to earn some extra money fixing my beloved CR01? I (as in my wife) keep getting messages 'close inner door' and 'close outer door'. Need this "fixed" as well as a new inner door, a new outer door and a new detergent drawer. This old work horse has years of life left before it goes and dies on us!!!
  8. here are some of the 'mods' I have done to our washing machine, (after wifes approval of course) Machine: Hotpoint WMUD843 Bought September 2012: http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0039.jpg Cut/Filed extra bit of plastic on door fascia where hinge is to allow porthole door to open back further http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0035.jpg Adjusted water level of washing machine. By cutting the top off the Water Level switch (very carefully with a hacksaw) and adjusting plastic screw (a couple of turns slowly clockwise) this will put more water into the drum, thus if the fast wash 60'c / 40'c /30'c means that you can only wash 3kg (which is what it says in the instructions) by adjusting the level this allows us to do a full wash (8kg) on fast wash by bringing the water up to the bottom of the drum during washing allowing to wash the clothes properly and without ruining them because more water for them to wash in. However this has its own drawbacks, we find it puts an extra 5-10 onto the wash, and throws the 'time to end' out. Say if it says '0.01' on last rinse the display will go to 'spin 0.06' and then after 6 minutes the was will end. Also because of more water going into drum you will have to add a bit more washing powder than normal and of course the water wll take longer to heat up the water if it has more water going into the drum. Beware if you are going to attempt this yourself because if you screw the water level switch too much the water will come up to the bottom of the bottom of the glass on the porthole door, but not only that, after it washes and comes to rinse the display will go crazy, bring up an error number and the buzzer will beep indicating a fault with the washing machine, so when adjusting the water level have it stop when the water comes up to the bottom rim of the drum and no higher. The water Level Switch : http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x361/Andyr_45/DSC_0041.jpg Unsoldered the Buzzer from the back of the LCD panel. Thanks to Hotpoint/Indesit to not allowing the consumer to disable the 'Beeps' on the washing machine when you press the buttons or an error occurs or signal at the end of the completed wash this was getting on our nerves, so the only thing to do was unsolder one of the legs to the back of the buzzer which is located on the electronic board behind the LED display at the top front of the machine. Pretty sure Hotpoing could have made it so the consumer could have disabled the beeps even if the consumer had to press 2 buttons on the front of the fascia to do so, its supposed to be a 'super silent washer' that you can put on at night why have it that you cannot disable the loud beeps? Changed 2 phase wires on the motor, swapped them around so spin goes clockwise as opposed to ant-clockwise as every other automatic washing machine since they were invented spun in a clockwise direction but Hotpoint and Indesit machines lately seem to spin anti-clockwise, I dont know why? - maybe there is science that spinning anti-clockwise spins more water out of the clothes or less creases or what? i dunno really, but its more stisfying to watch the drum spin in the 'proper' direction now to what we are used to and the clothes come out just as dry as when it was spinning anti-clockwise We spin at 1200rpm, thats for towels jeans a cottons. The Machine will spin 1400rpm at a maximum but theres a few reasons we spin at 1200rpm, one is the spin is less noisier and less vibrate at 1200rpm than 1400rpm, I think personally it helps save the wear and tear bearings on the drum the lower the spin speed you select and prolong the life of the drum bearings/machine (I have nothing to back it up its just how i feel) - and also did not like the stories of the drums 'exploding' at the weld of the drum and crashing through the top of the washing machine at high spin speed on programmes like watchdog on the TV, i just figured if its spinning at 1200rpm it might do less damage than if the drum splits and 'explodes' at 1400rpm! Notes I observerved when 'tinkering' with machine: Drum: I noted the part number label on the outer machine drum and although the machine is an 8KG one and marketed as 8KG the part number of the drum matches exactly with the same part number of a 9KG drum and same physical size, so all I can denote is that the Drum is capable of taking 9KG of washing but maybe the combination of water level and software on the main control board are programmed to fill it up as a 8KG machine on this washing machine. Motor: The motor is of a Induction type motor, this gives the machine its 'super silent wash' and quiter spin (no shrill on spin) and no motor brushes to change ever which is good. A surprising thing to note on the part label on the motor it says its 1900rpm maximum speed! - really, in a 1400rpm washing machine?? - all I can denote is that to make all parts available I think Hotpoint use the same induction motor across their machines and govern the speed of the motors spin speed by programming the main control board with software attuned to the machine the motor is fitted to, so for example we have a 1400 spin speed model of Hotpoint however the motor says 1900rpm, so that screams to me that in the software of the main control panel the software limits/governs the motor to spin speed at 1400rpm! Main Control Board: The Main electronic Control Board (Bottom right of machine if looking at the front of the machine face on) looks to me to be a standard main board fitted across the WMUD range (and maybe some other Hotpoint washers) and all thats different per machine is the software that is loaded onto the EEPROM chip on the main board, in fact I think if you buy a brand new control board from Hotpoint service it comes as standard with no software loaded on it whatsover (this is what i think I havent looked fully into it) which means if your control board goes 'BANG!' one day you cant just order a new board from Hotpoint/Indesite service and unplug your old board and put the new one in, I dont think that will work, I think the new board will have to be programmed with software designed for your model of washing machine, so if you have the WMUD843 this will be programmed to tell it to use washing programs for the WMUD843, Spin at 1400rpm maximum speed and fill up and wash to the specifications of an 8KG machine. - In the old days an engineer would come out and get out his laptop and special lead and plug it into a 'Diagnostic socket' at the rear of the machine and would have to take no covers off the machine at all (well apart from the cover covering the diagnostic socket) and plug the lead into the diagnostic socket and on his laptop would all the software for the range of different Hotpoint machines and he would choose the correct software matched to the model number of your machine. These days I believe the case is (Unless i am mistaken) a laptop isnt even needed now these days and that a 'module' fits into the Diagnostic socket and something like a 'memory' card fits into the module and thats how they program or re-program a control board. I believe same module fits the sockets across the range, but the smart memory cards that hold the software or firmware if you like of the machine specifically for your model number of Hotpoint washing machine and this programs the memory chip on the main control board. Its a very effective way when you think about it because if you think about it, if new firmware (or software) comes out after the washing machine has been sold then this could in fact 'update' the machine to act differently or iron out any bugs or errors the machine may have after its sold, or update the washing machine to do extra things it couldnt do when the machine was sold, or maybe a manufacturer of a garment requires to be washed in a different way (say gentler drum agitation) well new firmware for the machine could tell the machine to do this on the required wash program. Its just the same these days as 'updating' a mobile phone or DVD player or something like that, you often find included in the firmware/software are improvements and things like bugs can be sorted out. THINGS TO NOTE IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE MESSING AROUND ADAPTING YOUR WASHING MACHINE LIKE I DID YOU WILL VOID THE WARRANTY (THE STANDARD 1 YEARS ONE AND ALSO THE 5 YEAR WARRANT ON DRUM ETC) AND MESSING AROUND WITH THE MACHINE EVEN WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED CAN ELECTROCUTE YOU THE CONTRO PANEL CONTAINS CAPACITORS THAT CAN HOLD ELECTRICITY FOR A LONG TIME EVEN AFTER UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE - DONT GO TAKING BACK OFF IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR HAVE A CLUE ABOUT THESE THINGS! AND OF COURSE YOU COULD BREAK YOUR MACHINE! - OF COURSE MANY PEOPLE WILL NOT BE LIKE ME AND BE PERFECTLY HAPPY WITH THE OPERATION OF THE HOTPOINT WMUD843 AND HAVE NO DESIRE TO MODIFY THE MACHINE THE WAYS I HAVE AND WILL BE PERFECTLY HAPPY THE WAY IT IS
  9. Hi everyone, I'm wondering if you can help me please. I have a Hotpoint WDL520 Aquarius. As of today, the dryer isn't working properly. Clothes are coming out hot and wet, and steam billows out when you open the door. I've read several other topics, and looked in the FAQ section, but I don't think any of them apply. The drum is turning, and I can hear water running as normal when the dryer starts (the second or so of running water you hear then stops and the dry cycle starts) so I'm thinking that it's not a problem with the solenoid that supplies cold water, would I be correct? Is there any other fault or part that causes this problem? Hopefully something I can fix myself! I have a multimeter, so I can test the solenoid at the same time as other options if this is necessary. I'm just a little unsure of how to test it. Also, do I need to get the cover off to do so, or is it accessible from the outside of the machine? I'm not at home right now, and I've been asked (ordered) to fix it tomorrow, so I can't actually look at the machine, I've just gone through a few things over the phone, that's how I know that some kind of water is still running when a dry cycle is started. Thanks for your help! Andy
  10. My washing machine developed a leak. On inspection it looked like the leak was from the sump hose. Took the sump hose out and found a mangled metal filter. I am unable to find where this metal filter came from. Any help identifying this metal filter would be great. Thanks
  11. Hi all, I hope someone may be able to help or give me some advice. I live in Germany and brought my Bosch from the uk with me. Its now about 5 years old. Recently there was a problem and it wasnt spinning right and so we called out a repair man. He came and said it was the stabilisers and took it away to repair. When it came back everythng seemed fine to start with. Then we noticed small differences. The plug was no longer English, the liquid tray didnt slide/fit as well as before, the top was longer and the general sides and back were different. Rang the repair man back up and mentioned the differences. To begin with he said it was ours but then admitted that it had fallen over and that he had changed the outside (shell) but that it was still our washing machine inside. We were obviously extremley annoyed that he hadnt told us and now we are not sure if we have our machine back. We have the model number but i was wondering if there was anything on the motor/machine (inside) that has the model number on or the Bosch stamp that we can check to make sure that it is our Bosch machine and not a different/cheaper model. Any help would be very much appreciated because we want to know if there is any hard evidence that it is our machine or not. Cheers Design10
  • Create New...