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Showing content with the highest reputation since 20/09/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 1 point
    Sound like a sensible idea, I will get a surge protector. So far the machine has been behaving and I am hoping I have just had a run of bad luck...Fingers crossed....Thanks for the help.
  3. 1 point
    Thanks for your help. Luckily it still can be used as its just the temp button and not any other. The cost of a board is stupid and they are very hard to find, so theres no offers anywhere. Ill keep a look out for a used part on ebay. Thanks again
  4. 1 point
    That's reassuring, thank you very much for the clarification!
  5. 1 point
    I initially missed the section mentioning these bolts, feeling like a complete idiot. Now the machine is pretty still and silent, thanks man. I'm wondering though, after several uses with bolts in and hence the machine vibrating like hell, did I reduce its lifetime?
  6. 1 point
    Nice one. Fingers crossed.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks. Will do on bother counts. I'll report back later...
  8. 1 point
    Hello. That sounds like the motor. To troubleshoot a noise when the drum turns you need to take off the drive belt and make sure it's not catching on the drum pulley at the back. Then spin the drum by hand again. If the noise is still there it's related to the drum, drum bearings or something stuck in the drum. If the noise has gone then it has to be the motor or in some rare cases even the drive belt.
  9. 1 point
    Hi, I took off the back panel as you advised and straightened it a bit then I could put it back properly. Hopefully the gap won't reappear, it looks like it won't. Thanks a lot for your very helpful input!
  10. 1 point
    bob12241 - Top work! I had the same fault, quick and easy fix with the replacement diode (although I went with the same diode rating; if it faults again I will go straight back to check D7 as my first check). A nice easy quick video on testing diodes should you require it: Thanks Joe
  11. 1 point
    Hello Andy. I just came across this old topic. I'd just like to say that yes you were correct. Many of the Hotpoint washing machines do turn the pump off once they have detected that the water has gone. Historically this has never happened before and I still don't really see the sense of it. It just makes it difficult to test the pump if it only runs when water is inside. The last thing you want to do when investigating a faulty pump is to put water in the drum that might not get pumped out. I suppose an argument is that it saves wear and tear on the pump but I'm struggling to think why the manufacturer would be bothered about that when they make so much money selling replacement pumps. :-)
  12. 1 point
    June 2019 I have this E80 code coming up on my Belling Washer Dryer. I have phone Belling and their customer service cannot fine anything about this code. As my machine is still under warranty (1 week over 1yr old, I have a 2yr warranty) they are sending out an engineer. I will re post when I know what the answer is, as there does not seem to be any answers on the web. This may help anyone else, including washing machine engineers. Thanks for this site, I have been here before.
  13. 1 point
    Hi Skistones. Many thanks for the update. Yes appliance engineers have never repaired pcbs other than the odd dry joint soldering. There is no technical information for them even for the trade. However, many technical minded electronics experts have repaired their own using equivalent electronic parts. They clearly have experience and knowledge about these things that is never imparted to even the most well trained domestic appliance engineers. There is a company that specialises in repairing washing machine pcbs though, so anyone wanting to attempt that route could try contacting QER electronic repairs.
  14. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  15. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  16. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thanks. No problem. I may contact QER as you suggest. However, if I had a circuit diagram myself I, along with much more electronics savvy friends, might be able to trace the fault more easily. I'm not being stingy, just frugal. I'm on state pension and have to do my best to fix things before I splash out on replacements. I'm guessing it's a power supply issue as it's drawing too much current through that resistor. Maybe a cap, diode or that PWM Switch. Curiously once I cleaned off the soot nothing looked untoward. Even the original blown resistor looked fine. Things can still be wrong even when they look OK, as they are in this case. Still puzzled as to why it all kicked off after I fixed then pump. I really do appreciate the free advice and help. It's not like you are being paid or anything. That replacement board that was only one digit out that I mentioned above - I have noticed that boards have different numbers depending on what year they were made so any thoughts on it?
  17. 1 point
    Update: The black sooty deposit is just that - soot. Friend suggested it was from the bushes being attracted by the magnetism in the choke. I've cleaned it all off now. Checked a few parts and that blackened resistor next to the larger blue cap had gone open circuit. Replaced it but it blew with a puff of smoke when I switched back on. And now there's no lights on at all. Back to the drawing board. Any, and all, suggestions gratefully accepted. Wouldn't want to get an expensive new board, or a new machine, when it could just be a part that needs replacing.
  18. 1 point
    Hello. Instructions on how to remove a soap dispenser drawer for cleaning are usually in the instruction manual. If you don't have it you may be able to download one from here washing machine instruction manuals That's assuming it is meant to come out, but most should be. At the end of the day it shouldn't be difficult, there's just something at the back (possibly underneath the drawer) that stops it coming all the way out and a tab or device to press to allow it to come out. Some are even cruder that that and just need gently prising out.
  19. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  20. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  21. 1 point
    Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry cleanser liquid to the wash cycle which will kill germs at under 40'c (allegedly) if you can get it where you live or something similar. - Dont forget to leave the door ajar after the wash and at all times if you can, it allows air to get into the drum and dry it out rather than leave it condensated and damp (which can lead to damp smell) and wipe the grey rubber door gasket dry after every wash and look for black mould on the grey door rubber gasket (sometimes if it already is bad with mould sometimes you cannot even get rid of it by cleaning and you have to have the rubber door gasket replaced or replace the machine altogether if the mould has really got in there and taken hold. Have you ever cleaned out the pump filter on your washing machine? - on most washing machines the pump filter is behind a door or facia at the bottom of the machine (the instruction booklet will say how to) sometimes if they are not cleaned they , over time, get full of gunk of undisolved washing liquid / conditioner, hair, fluff, coins and buttons, and sometimes if the filter is dirty and need cleaning a 'damp' smell can emulate from the machine, Come up from the pump filter and the smell then can come out through the drum and soap drawer. Talking of soap drawer do you take that out regularly and clean it ? most soap drawers can be removed totally from the washing machine by pushing a clip down at the rear of the soap drawer same time while pulling out the soap drawer. Clean all the undisolved washing powder and soap liquid and conditioner off the drawer insides and at the bottom of the soap drawer and rinse it well and then dry it totally before putting it back in place. Again a 'yucky' soap drawer attracts mould and can give off a pungent damp smell. - Good luck , I am sure you will eradicate it or make it smell better in the end if you do all of that .. well I hope anyway. EDIT: I have sourced the Instruction Manual for your washing machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46003/Electrolux-Ewg-12440-W.html?page=3#manual
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Andy I'll do some more investigations today, I'll let you know what I find.
  23. 1 point
    I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat
  24. 1 point
    I THINK YOU GOT IT!!!! I have connected the right spring (the one with yellow marking) in the wrong slot. Sh*******T. I am lucky that it did not break! I confirmed it by looking at the video I followed to change the bearings. Right now a washing is running. As soon as it is done, I guess I will have to open the machine again, take down all the weights and then reattach it in the right slot. Or do you think I can do it (re-fit the spring) with care without opening everything up again? THANKS YOU SO MUCH!
  25. 1 point
    Thanks. I did what you suggested. In case anyone else has the same question, there are no nuts on the back on the Bosch WAS24466GB. You can safely remove the screws and nothing drops inside.
  26. 1 point
    Hi Andy! I think it maybe the 30 minutes cycle then, however i only use it when it's a 2-3 item. Will let you know the outcome in couple of weeks
  27. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice,
  28. 1 point
    Seems to have worked from my end. Hope you see it. Had to crop but I think you can still make out the mm on the rule + the info I sent before
  29. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, yes, I have checked out the articles for dead machine and door interlock - both very helpful. Mains cable and suppressor (filter?) all check out although, confusingly, the connector after the filter has live on blue and neutral on brown! (connector only fits one way round). I checked the resistance of both heaters - 27 ohms for the washer, 35 ohms for the dryer. Also checked the motor - 8.5 ohms between any pair of terminals. I removed the front control PCBs andI reconnected the door lock and connected to the mains just to check for voltages on the control PCBs - they seemed very low - approx. 250mV - so there seems to be continuity but surely not enough volts to power the control panels?! I will continue to check for broken wires. Thanks again
  30. 1 point
    Hi Andy. Many thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go. Dan
  31. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice. I will look for a new one immediately.
  32. 1 point
    Okay - thank you for your answer
  33. 1 point
    An update, the new element is in and the electric is no longer tripping, yay! I found it quite hard fixing the new circlips. On the YouTube video he had a tool for it. I used a piece of cut off push fit pipe to hammer them down, which kinda worked. One fixed down tight straight away but the other was more fiddly and wouldn’t go down tight. In the end I resorted to carefully tapping around it with a screwdriver and hammer. So I got the machine back together with just the top to go on and I clumsily managed to brake the plastic clips off trying to work out how to put it on, ah man! Didn’t even use much effort and they just sheared off. Anyway the machine is working, so that’s the main thing. Probably just fix the clips with some sugru. Cheers for the help Andy and all the best.
  34. 1 point
    Great to know it won’t hurt the pump running dry, coffee machine brass pumps don’t like that at all. I contacted QER this morning, tech who repairs these PCB’s is back at work on Monday so will get to know more then. Happy weekend.
  35. 1 point
    When the machine is plugged into mains it performs some check, interesting fact is that the door lock remains locked at all time. When the selection is left on OFF it doesn't go into draining, only when the program selection is made and program either started or not. To be honest I have left the machine draining until it stops itself only couple of times when I acquired it as I'm not sure if it is safe for the pump to be running dry. So I have to try that again to see if it produces any error itself. From what I understood from the manual it only shows the type of error which can be rectified by consumer. I think I will try to send the PCB for a test to QER next week as you suggest, I haven't found this type of PCB in their order search though so I hope they will be able to test it.
  36. 1 point
    It is a bazaar noise, I shall report back if the problem is solved.
  37. 1 point
    If the machine wasn't so heavy perhaps it would already have been dropped from a great height I'll get a new one from you & see how that goes.
  38. 1 point
    I removed the main pcb to look for bad connections joints etc but everything looked fine. After putting it all back together it worked! I'm guessing there was a bad connection somewhere. I read up somewhere that the motor control unit senses excess suds by analysing the current draw on the motor... interesting. Thank you again Andy for your replies and help. wayne
  39. 1 point
    Yes the main PCB, not the control panel. Exactly when does it produce the error? That may provide a clue. Put it on a 40 degree cottons wash and write down everything it does, and time everything up until the error. For example when the error triggers what exactly was it doing? Was it 10 mins into a wash and turning the drum back and forth, or was it 40 mins in and draining the water away? Could you hear the water heating up?
  40. 1 point
    Hello. Error codes implicating the temperature sensor (or NTC) often say things like, "NTC or module, check connections". The Hoover Nextra range uses, "NTC/Heater fault". So an error rarely implicates a specific part that is definitely the cause - which is a great shame. If it worked for a bit then failed I would very carefully check connections. There's always a possibility of a pcb fault, which I would advise against dealing with.
  41. 1 point
    Just a few extra thoughts just in case they are helpful. According to the error information I have on Bosch washing machines (which is far from up-to-date) there should allow about 6 minutes to drain, and also about 6 minutes to fill. So if there is an error where the washing machine doesn't detect it has taken the correct amount of water in, or doesn't detect that it has pumped the waterway successfully it should have tried to do so for around 6 minutes before aborting. Also most faults should produce some sort of an error code. There should normally also attempt to start the motor 8 times before advancing to the off position. Have you checked the carbon brushes just in case? Most faults should occur after several minutes the absolute minimum. So if the washing machine thinks it is full of water and you put it on a spin cycle it should try to pump the water out for about 6 minutes before aborting.
  42. 1 point
    Hi Andy, this is the machine with the latest analogue pressure sensor with the magnet inside the coil. The machine does its check when plugged in mains (electricity) and when selection of a program is made and I think sets itself to a safety mode upon receiving this incorrect feedback. It also never release the latch on the lock so the door remain locked at all times. The discovery is that I think that there are 2 seconds delay before the PCB locks the display front panel after the program selection is made and if I press START the program immediately after it is made available on the display the program then starts and runs for 2-3 seconds and is aborted with the drain pump coming on (the display and controls then become locked) keeping draining for 3-4 minutes and then stops as I think is programmed for safety mode so that with the valves shut the drum should be emptied in that time. It is very much possible that the programs begin with short draining. I think that the voltage return from the pressure switch should fluctuate between 5 - 10 V and I'm reading constant 9.4 V, it sort of explains the symptoms for me at this moment. The sensor is £40 from Bosch , but I found exactly the same at ApplianceSparesWarehouse for £18 so I will give it a go to replace it and see if it would fix the error. Many thanks again for your thoughts and information on the subject as it directs me towards understanding the logic of the machine's behavior.
  43. 1 point
    Understood about the neutral return, thank you. I will check your site, I very much appreciate your help.
  44. 1 point
    Did you blow down the pressure pipe the other way? Into the tub? A blockage at the other end can cause problems for sure. It can cause the washing machine to overfill. If a washing machine thinks it is overfilling, it will commonly energise the pump constantly trying to get rid of the excess water. It will keep the pump running until it receives the signal that the water has been pumped away. However, a fault in the pressure system, or a blockage in the pressure system can prevent that signal from ever occurring. Having said that, if there was a blocked pressure system then as soon as you remove the pressure tubing from the pressure switch the air pressure would be released and the pressure switch should switch off. This should stop the problems, at least until more water got into the washing in and caused the problem again. Another fault that can trigger the pump to be running constantly on some washing machines is believe it or not earth faults. If there is an earth fault on some washing machines they can behave bizarrely. So make sure that the washing machine is properly earthed. But more importantly you would really need to check that no parts on the washing machine have low insulation readings. This would require using a specialist meter though that tests with 500 V DC. Also it is common for faulty PCBs to show no visible problems. They can of course have dry joints, or blown parts, but many component failures will not have visible signs. So the lack of any signs doesn't prove anything when it comes to diagnosis.
  45. 1 point
    Hi, yes it solved the issue. You can check by seeing if the wheel can be slightly moved while still attached. Also the fact that when I removed it there was no knocking noise coming from the drum if I rotated it by hand. The new wheel was clearly a snug fit and required a bit of effort to push it into place - this was in contrast to the old wheel that came off easily. Hope it solves your issue.
  46. 1 point
    Make sure there isn’t some polystyrene packaging left inside. There is sometimes polystyrene blocks packed inside as part of the transit packing. You also need to take the back and lid off after disconnecting from the mains and just locate where the noise is coming from. That’s all an engineer would do. Get access to it and move things around until it makes the noise and use ears and eyes to locate it. If it makes the noise when drum turns take the belt off to see if it’s coming from the drum or motor
  47. 1 point
    Hello Tom. If the pump is making a buzzing noise but no water is being drained out then there is a blockage somewhere, or the pump is not running but if it is a different pump with the same fault then it seems very unlikely that the pump would not be running. The only thing I could imagine is if the pump isn't receiving enough voltage that I have not heard of that before. However, if there is a blockage somewhere preventing water from being expelled the pump would be making a noise. Did you clean out the sump hose ball that was mentioned earlier that I described can stick and block the water in the drum from getting to the pump? Have you checked for blockages at the end of the drain hose where it connects under the sink at the u-bend? Remove the drain hose and check in the end plus remove the spigot it connects to and inspect that and the u-bend where it connects for obstructions. It's impossible to hear any buzzing from your video on YouTube because the radio was playing. The first link doesn't work at all. I'm assuming it's on a drain section? No water is being pumped out at all. Has the pump got a filter at the front? If so drain out all of the water you can, play several thick towels in front of it and remove the filter. Then put the washing machine onto a spin cycle and see if you can see that the pump impeller is spinning or not. You need to establish 100% if the pump is running or not. If it is running but not draining then it can only be a blockage somewhere in the system. If it is not running, or it is just humming and the impeller isn't spinning round then it can only be a fault on the pump, something jamming the pump, or an electrical fault somewhere.
  48. 1 point
    Well I guess it's clear what happened here. Don't neglect your hot maintenance washes folks!! Glad I opted to replace the brushes too, compared against the replacement ones you can see they were about two thirds gone in four years - hopefully we'll get another four at least out of it now! Did a boil wash this morning to flush the crud out, all seemed to go OK - thanks all whose advice I found invaluable!
  49. 1 point
    Thanks. Have already emailed Zanussi with the same question, fingers crossed they can help!
  50. 1 point
    Great help from Candy/Hoover on telephone equates to as follows: ____________________________________________________ For a drain blockage (E03 error) - The pipe you need to be cleaning out is found behind the flap at the front of the machine (bottom left). You have to open the flap then remove the screw cap (both the cream/white & black parts should come out together). Then feel inside the cavity with hand for the draining hole (should be to the right). I cleaned the hole using a hooked coat hanger and it fixed the problem. I'm sure there are proper tools and be careful using anything other than a proper tool - I hooked my coat hanger tightly into a reed shape so no 'prongy' bits were able to damage the piping. If you have some leaking afterward, you may not have screwed the screw cap back on correctly - it's a little awkward. ______ I had washed a rug and the back had disintegrated into powder which had blocked the drainage tube.
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