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  1. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  2. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 1 point
    You just saved me £350 on a new washing machine. Got the diode for £2.10 off ebay. A couple of hours carefully removing connectors and labelling them for re-assembly. Fitted new diode and all working again now. Thanks very much!
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for your quick response, Andy. I have taken the machine apart and split the outer tub to find a melted lump of rubber/plastic jamming between the inner drum and the outer tub. Also there are serious rub/melted plastic/burn marks inside the bottom of the rear outer tub. Looks like the inner steel drum has been rubbing around on it for quite a while. Not sure what the initial cause was but I too suspect overloading - she who must be obeyed disagrees as it is she who does the laundry (no, I'm not a chauvinist, we just split the chores!). The cost of replacement parts is between 3 and 4 hundred so we won't be pursuing that avenue - time for a new machine (and smaller loads!).
  12. 1 point
    Thank you again to bob12241 as I have today replaced the diode D7 all okay now. Another one to add to the list 18 Months old. Thanks again Rob
  13. 1 point
    Thanks for your help, it was the brushes, one was stuck. Working again for now but not much meat left on them so just need to track some replacement's down.
  14. 1 point
    I also had the same problem, the machine stopped dead in the middle of a cycle, I found this thread and I am delighted to say that on Saturday we swapped out the D7 and the machine sprang back to life. Thanks for posting the solution bob12241 and thanks to jonboyuk for your step by step guide as we have the exact same model. Saved me around £350 and I now know how to do a spot of soldering.
  15. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thank you for your reply. I have managed to solve this! Just went over the most suspicious things, it was the door switch /locker By the way, to reset the code after the replacement, you need to hold the two buttons below the display, marked with a lock symbol... Best, Dedy.
  16. 1 point
    I just completed damper replacement on my WFF 2001. You do not need to remove the control panel. I did, assuming I would need to. I managed it, but broke one of the bottom clips (but no bad consequences) and it took me a long time to work out how it was attached. The front panel is secured by the bottom right screw behind the soap dispenser and two at the bottom behind the kick panel (where you access that little drain pipe and get access to unblock the pump). You then release the door seal front retaining spring and detach the door seal. Then unbolt the door lock mechanism (two bolts with those star shaped holes in the top - forgotten the technical term) and push it inside. Lift away the panel and door. You then have full access to the dampers, which are bolted on, with captive nuts welded to the structure. The most difficult bit is undoing them, they are quite tight. I bought original parts. They are twice as expensive as substitutes, but you never know whether it's the machine manufacturer over-pricing or the substitute manufacturer not caring about repeat orders! I would happily pay £40 insurance to avoid taking the machine apart again!
  17. 1 point
    I made an account just to say my thanks. Same issues as everyone else here, lights went off suddenly, checked the specified diode, it was indeed faulty. Replaced said diode and everything works again! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
  18. 1 point
    Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not enough it didn't register with me that that was the problem I have attached the part that was replaced. It's a part I cleaned from underneath but didn't think the inside was all clogged up. Little did I know. Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Gary
  19. 1 point
    Hi Andy. For me washing machines are just too functional and unreliable, and don't last long enough to justify spending obscene amounts on one
  20. 1 point
    Just wanted to say that I also had the same problem... for the second time in a year. The first time I had no idea where to start, called a local engineer, he couldn't fix it as he didn't have spares. Then ended up spending £175 on a year's extended plan, and the Beko engineer came and replaced the board. When it failed again this year I thought of replacing the board myself. Came across this discussion...bob12241 You're an absolute star! From £175, the cost of the repair this time went down to £1.75 for a new diode! Thank you!
  21. 1 point
    You can take the screws off the top if the fan unit and the top will move far enough to access the fan to remove the lint, but it is very fiddly and time consuming. We did this, but a couple of months later the sensor has tripped again.
  22. 1 point
    Getting back to our wonderful WT2780 - shades of deja vu as yet again I go traipsing around the internet for clues... This thread is particularly interesting, as the guy clearly has techical nouse regarding the drying issue of his Miele model (4 web pages via link) - https://www.fixya.com/support/t1615585-miele_wt945_washer_dryer And here they give photos of the dubious dryer unit itself: https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying What I think I've learned so far is: - the element for the dryer unit sits in a metal box above the drum - I assume either air passes over (drying) or a mix of air and water passes through (for the ritzy 'steam' function - this element box may not be part of the 'rinse out fluff' and/or able to be descaled* - fluff definitely collects there causing overheating (and the need for initally a reset, but eventually a manual delousing). - the fan unit is positioned at the bottom of the machine, and is the most difficult item in the machine to access and take apart (according to at least one Miele engineer, resulting in Miele only offering to replace the entire unit (at £400), though a competent amateur is able to take apart and clean (with time and effort). - the fan unit may have some inherent design fault, as part of the gubbins frequently gums up and has to be meticulously cleaned and re-assembled periodically - the rinse out fluff feature fails to work properly as designed, leading to people having to use long pincers to jiggle and extract gungey fluff which has turned to something ghastly and practically immovable over time - one German owner commented that when he took the fan unit apart, he was appalled at the cheap quality of the electronics (he could have been a bit of an exaggeration merchant) - one (satisfied) German owner commented that the machine was great, but had two key flaws - a) that it broke down if you did not use Rinse-Out-Fluff, and b) that it broke down if you did not use the drying feature every so often (interesting, as obviously we haven't been able to recently) *the comment about the descaling/rinsing of the element box, or absence of, is what really intrigues me. As mentioned, we do use the descaler and cleaner as advised - but I am now wondering how this stuff is routed within the machine. Basically the instructions are just 'throw the powder in the drum and run at 60+ degrees'. Not mechanically minded, but I assume that this does indeed clean the drum and main element (as it sloshes around) and does indeed clean the hoses leading down to the pump and outlet (as the powder circulates and eventually disappears via the outlet). But the big question is... does the powder ever make it in liquid form to the element box on the top of the drum? - if the steam function does involve water being passed over the element there (as opposed to the main element in the machine), then obviously descaling is required there. Ditto, does the cleaning powder make it around the air pipes leading to the top element box? I assume not, but given that the technically gifted user has photos to show the way fluff accumulates there despite frequent Rinse Out Fluffs... I'm determined not to go to my grave without finding the answer to these fascinating mysteries... mainly because if Miele have indeed designed a £1500-£2500 machine in such a way that fluff-clogging is inevitable even if users follow their advice, and fan-gumming and eventual failure and a £400 bill is also inevitable, then... ... the 'designed for 20 year lifespan' is clearly a load of old c*bblers, as far as WT models are concerned, and consequently innocent little ole' customer such as yours truly and others are due either a totally free overhaul or ideally a brand spanking new machine and 10yr warranty to go with it (I can dream). But what we really need is some decent anonymous Miele engineer to come on here and spill the beans (or correct the assumptions of myself and others). C'mon, surely there must be at least one in the UK who knows the washer/dryers inside out and is willing to tell all?! (failing that, does anyone have a PDF manual for people to pore over?) p.s. having had washer-dryers since they first came out, I remember our first was an Indesit - and taking the top off, there seemed to be what looked like an industrial steel hairdryer lying flat on the top. Not an elegant solution, and there was often fluff in the usual filter down below which needed scooping out every other week, but on the other hand it flaming well worked more reliably than this precious Miele! (suggesting that for washer-dryers at least, Italian smarts beat German smarts).
  23. 1 point
    Hi thanks for reply I put a non conductive spacer in interlock to force contacts together, I did not link terminals on loom The triacs on the board obviously blew when the door interlock failed (major arcing in armature housing) My wife thought slamming door would fix it
  24. 1 point
    Hi. If it's tripping at random on wash, but trips every time on dry then that's strange. If it's tripping at random on wash, and trips at random on drying cycle that is more in line with what would be expected with an intermittent tripping the electrics fault. It seems like it is tripping on both wash and dry cycle so clearly the washing machine is of little use until it is properly repaired. Intermittent tripping can be caused by either leaks running onto electrical parts or chafed wires somewhere that touch something metal during the wash cycle. The latter can be frustratingly intermittent and influenced by the weight of the laundry inside. In other words a heavy load, or a load that is a bit out of balance can cause the tub to bounce about more on spin and subsequently allow the bare wire to touch the casing. Tripping the electrics every single time would only be caused by a chafed wire if it was constantly touching and shorting to earth, which is very unlikely, or an insulation fault on one of the components. The most common components to cause fusing or tripping of the electrics is either the washing machine heating element, or the dryers heating element, followed by suppressors, capacitors, and motors. An engineer would put his insulation test meter on the washing machine and test for a reading between live or neutral and earth. If there is one you would then have to work out where the leak is coming from. This is achieved by disconnecting suspected parts and seeing if the leak disappears. However, a more accurate method is to disconnect suspected parts and test them individually by putting one probe of the insulation test meter on the metal casing of the part and the other probe on each individual electrical connection point to check for a reading. As the meter uses 500 V DC but the washing machine and uses 230 volts there is some leeway for small readings. I forget the exact amount that is tolerated. But usually if an insulation leak is tripping the electrics or blowing the fuse is then there is usually a direct short to earth and the needle will shoot straight over.
  25. 1 point
    Check whether your machine is on the recall list first, a potential fire is a lot worse. Check / clean the pump filter. If that doesn't resolve it then pressing the Delay button once during the cycle should temporarily stop the beeping until the next wash.
  26. 1 point
    This was exactly what happened to my 18 month old beko, I bought a soldering iron and with zero experience replaced the diode and saved myself a small fortune. thanks bob and other posters. as a side note I (stupidly) soldered the diode the wrong way round initially and this resulted in the display flashing slowly on and off. cheers, david
  27. 1 point
    Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply Andy, that is helpful. I have dismantled the dryer and checked the fan etc. I will carry on with the fault finding and let you know what I find, Terry
  29. 1 point
    Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back to the repairers showing them the website and giving them the spare diodes. While I was there, they opened up another circuit board they's ordered for a broken BEKO and lo and behold it was the same circuit. They thanked me (even though I have done them out of some business!), but said that they only replace circuit boards so they can guarantee the parts for 12 months. I cannot thank this forum and Bob12241 enough for this very cheap fix. It now gives me a bit more confidence not to throw things away when they are broken, but try and have them fixed at the component level. I just hope more people find this fix and save a whole load of money and BEKO washing machines live a lot longer.
  30. 1 point
    would anyone be able to tell me the rating on the D6 diode just to the right of D7. Like a few others ,want to thank bob12241 for his post. Make that 8 .
  31. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I got the same washing machine and exactly the same problem which is not even powering up. Bought diode online and fixed it. Really appreciate every one advises. We are saved and got a lot of washing to do. Thx a lot
  32. 1 point
    Thanks for the help Andy, much appreciated!
  33. 1 point
    That’s interesting. Those that don’t know (!) have all suggested that I check voltage as well. I have a new element on order and when it’s fitted I will post if it all works alright.
  34. 1 point
    Hi, I have a 3 year old washer dryer Beko WDW85140, which suddenly stopped working, no LED light and no display just dead. I contacted the manufacturer Beko for goodwill and asked to send 3 boards. I am an electrician and electrical engineer, but I did not have the time or the desire to deal with the error as to which circuit board was defective. Now Beko accepted my goodwill, but unfortunately today I only got the engine control module. When I was looking for board names on the Internet, I came across your site. Tonight I immediately got the diode from electronics dealer Conrad and soldered it in. Everything works again as if by magic. I wanted to thank @ bob12241 and all contributors :) bye
  35. 1 point
    Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
  36. 1 point
    I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area as this prized apart quite quickly. Once the fascia is away the 10 screws are revealed, and away you go. The facia snapped back on easily It took me about 20 minutes Good Luck AW
  37. 1 point
    Yes the only way the drum can damage the outer drums like that is if it has come forward but it should be held very tightly in place by the drum pulley at the back. The only other thing that could technically cause it as if somehow something got stuck between the two drums and dragged all the way around it.
  38. 1 point
    You shouldn't be able to push the drum front to back. If the drum is moving front to back on the shaft that's whats cutting into the outer drum. Sealing the worn plastic is no good if the drum is still catching on it. Also I would say it's a bit of a long shot to seal it. To be honest I would say it needs a new drum.
  39. 1 point
    Thank you Andy - that's really helpful.
  40. 1 point
    Many thanks to bob12241 I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2 Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash.
  41. 1 point
    Thanks Andy - better get a new one ordered.
  42. 1 point
    Got new set of brushes this morning and put the motor back together this PM... ..... tests complete.... all working again. Thanks for the info Andy, much appreciate the help.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks Andy - never really thought about a washing machine being dangerous (never leave the dryer on though). Good to know! I'll keep an ear out for it, hopefully it quietens down soon then. Think my previous one must have had an inverter motor, so was much quieter!
  44. 1 point
    After the machine being noisy for some time i came home to the wife saying the washer was not working it was making a noise but the drum was not going round.Tipped it up belt was off and bolts were out of the motor no sign of any rubbers they had disintegrated and the motor was hanging by its wire.I cut a piece of half inch hose to go where the mount was.I then cut a second piece and slit it length ways so it would fit over the first one(so i had two pieces of hose about an inch long one over the top of the other pushed them into the mounting hole then pushed the bolt through the hole on the middle of the hose pipe .Tightened it all up and put the belt back on.Its working great but i have ordered the nylon bushes to put in (dont get the black rubber ones) Samsung upgraded them as rubber ones didn't last very long.nylon ones do go but last a bit longer. Hope this is helpful to someone.
  45. 1 point
    Following up on this - mine did it in April, and then stopped, and has been sporadically doing it the last week. Hubby pressed the delay time button whilst it was doing it, and no more beeping! No idea why that fixed it, but it has.
  46. 1 point
    Sound like a sensible idea, I will get a surge protector. So far the machine has been behaving and I am hoping I have just had a run of bad luck...Fingers crossed....Thanks for the help.
  47. 1 point
    That's reassuring, thank you very much for the clarification!
  48. 1 point
    Nice one. Fingers crossed.
  49. 1 point
    I had to take the door off to remove the clips that held the drain pipe on the pump. It's all back together now, I tried the drain cycle and, low and behold, it pumped some water out into the pan. Not the full amount, but most of it. I've just put it on a 15 min cycle and I'll see what it does...
  50. 1 point
    Thanks. Will do on bother counts. I'll report back later...

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