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  1. 1 point
    Hello. Error codes implicating the temperature sensor (or NTC) often say things like, "NTC or module, check connections". The Hoover Nextra range uses, "NTC/Heater fault". So an error rarely implicates a specific part that is definitely the cause - which is a great shame. If it worked for a bit then failed I would very carefully check connections. There's always a possibility of a pcb fault, which I would advise against dealing with.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Andy Thank you very much for your reply. I agree, it does sound terrible! I've been trawling YouTube for videos of different noises a washing machine might make to see if any sounded similar, but none of them really did. I did try to spin the machine with the back off to see if the noise could be sparking, but couldn't get it to spin! I'll try everything you've suggested when I'm home from work. Thanks again!
  3. 1 point
    Just a few extra thoughts just in case they are helpful. According to the error information I have on Bosch washing machines (which is far from up-to-date) there should allow about 6 minutes to drain, and also about 6 minutes to fill. So if there is an error where the washing machine doesn't detect it has taken the correct amount of water in, or doesn't detect that it has pumped the waterway successfully it should have tried to do so for around 6 minutes before aborting. Also most faults should produce some sort of an error code. There should normally also attempt to start the motor 8 times before advancing to the off position. Have you checked the carbon brushes just in case? Most faults should occur after several minutes the absolute minimum. So if the washing machine thinks it is full of water and you put it on a spin cycle it should try to pump the water out for about 6 minutes before aborting.
  4. 1 point
    I will, definitely. I should have the part on Tuesday.
  5. 1 point
    Pressure switch should normally be off or on. Historically they’ve just been off until the correct amount of water creates enough pressure to switch the pressure switch on. The latest type of pressure switch seems to have a magnet inside a coil so potentially they might detect proper levels. If a pressure system is telling a washing machine it has water in when it hasn’t it usually tries to wash and rinse with no water in the drum. But modern washing machines operate the pump for 30 seconds before filling to wash. So it’s possible they check to make sure there’s no water in before filling. But I would still expect it to try draining the water out for a few minutes before giving up. If the pressure system is saying it has water in when it hasn’t I would still expect it to work on a spin only cycle. I’d expect it to try to drain water out for 2 or 3 minutes waiting for the signal that the water has gone. When it doesn’t get the signal it should then abort without spinning. If the washer thinks it’s overfilled though it should keep pumping trying to get rid of the water. But again I would expect it to try for several minutes at least. If the pressure switch isn’t expensive it might be worth a try but not sure. Fingers crossed.
  6. 1 point
    The heater should come in when correct level of water is inside. It’s possible for some parts to have a live supply but if there’s no neutral return it won’t operate. Some machines in the past have had all components switched on and off on the neutral side, with all parts in machine live all the time. It’s possible it shouldn’t be live though. Check out my site Whitegoodshelp and search for how pressure system works for an idea about pressure system.
  7. 1 point
    Did you blow down the pressure pipe the other way? Into the tub? A blockage at the other end can cause problems for sure. It can cause the washing machine to overfill. If a washing machine thinks it is overfilling, it will commonly energise the pump constantly trying to get rid of the excess water. It will keep the pump running until it receives the signal that the water has been pumped away. However, a fault in the pressure system, or a blockage in the pressure system can prevent that signal from ever occurring. Having said that, if there was a blocked pressure system then as soon as you remove the pressure tubing from the pressure switch the air pressure would be released and the pressure switch should switch off. This should stop the problems, at least until more water got into the washing in and caused the problem again. Another fault that can trigger the pump to be running constantly on some washing machines is believe it or not earth faults. If there is an earth fault on some washing machines they can behave bizarrely. So make sure that the washing machine is properly earthed. But more importantly you would really need to check that no parts on the washing machine have low insulation readings. This would require using a specialist meter though that tests with 500 V DC. Also it is common for faulty PCBs to show no visible problems. They can of course have dry joints, or blown parts, but many component failures will not have visible signs. So the lack of any signs doesn't prove anything when it comes to diagnosis.
  8. 1 point
    Hi, yes it solved the issue. You can check by seeing if the wheel can be slightly moved while still attached. Also the fact that when I removed it there was no knocking noise coming from the drum if I rotated it by hand. The new wheel was clearly a snug fit and required a bit of effort to push it into place - this was in contrast to the old wheel that came off easily. Hope it solves your issue.
  9. 1 point
    It just kept pumping out in small bursts. All fixed at the moment with new DC Module. Thanks
  10. 1 point
    cheers andy, this looks very helpful, i'll see what i can do.
  11. 1 point
    Well I guess it's clear what happened here. Don't neglect your hot maintenance washes folks!! Glad I opted to replace the brushes too, compared against the replacement ones you can see they were about two thirds gone in four years - hopefully we'll get another four at least out of it now! Did a boil wash this morning to flush the crud out, all seemed to go OK - thanks all whose advice I found invaluable!
  12. 1 point
    Having come to this same problem years later, and seeing no solution on line, though it was worth a response. They key step here is to open the quarter circle door a little too far, so that the tray is able to lift a little bit at the back clear of the top of the interior then the tray will easily slide forwards (separating from the door). There is a little clip inside, which attaches to a metal rail, this needs to separate before the drawer will slide away. See photos.
  13. 1 point
    The Problem Washing Machine: Hoover PE235 1300 Special Edition Problem: washing machine not emptying water Analysis: Filter had some rug threads but problem remained after filter was cleared. After 70% of the water has been manually emptied, the washing machine will spin and empty. This indicates the pump is working. Diagnosis: There is a blockage somewhere but it is not obvious where. Next Steps: Looked online and found this really helpful website The Solution A BIG THANK YOU to Andy at WasherHelp for his instructions on diagnosing the problem on a washing machine that won't drain water I would normally have given up having checked the filter accessible behind the front kickplate. However, his article gave me the knowledge and confidence to remove the back plate and quickly identify there was a blockage in the sump pipe. Access was difficult with the washing machine upright so I followed the advice to tilt the machine onto its front and not onto its side to get better access to the pump. I carefully placed the machine on its front. I then removed the holding clip and detached the hose. I then pulled out of the pipe the remnants of a moulting rug my wife has inadvisedly washed. The wet blob of tangled threads the size of a table tennis ball, more than enough to block the pipe. I attqched the hose fixed the spring clip with some difficulty. I righted the machine, screwed on the backplate, and put on a new washing load. And then, of course, I accusingly presented the ball of damp rug remnants to my wife. She now owes me one. Thanks again Andy for the great advice on this site.
  14. 1 point
    Hello. If pressing the door in gets the washing machine working then yes it sounds like a door lock fault. Just make sure nothing is preventing the door from closing properly such as a damaged door latch or the door seal slightly peeled away on the door frame. Try spraying some WD40 in the door lock and on the door catch. I have the largest stocks of washing machine spare parts available on my affiliate links all around the forum - 4Washerhelp if you want to buy appliance spare parts.
  15. 1 point
    Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them to check) do not sell these rubbers separate from the motor (complete con), they probably come in a box of 500 for about £5. I read on a forum somewhere about someone having Samsung out under the warranty and they replaced them so they must have them as spares. I bought a couple of round rubbers at a local motor factors that were similar in size, fixed them to my drill by putting a bolt through them, then turned the drill on and held it against a belt sender, that sanded them down, keeping them perfectly round. It was a struggle getting them into the holes (used washing up liquid and brute force) Machines been perfect since, and I honestly think I wasted money replacing bearings and spider arm, I suspect the rubber on the motor was the cause all along. I would remove your motor and check the rubbers before doing anything else. Attached a pic showing the rubber in the motor. The red arrows point to one washer going through the motor bracket, when I removed the bolts, instead of the rubber going right through, all I had was what looked like two round washers as the inside had totally turned to dust. So you can look at it without removing the bolts and it looks like the rubbers fine as you still see both sides, it's not until the bolts are removed that you see the middles turned to dust. Hope that's of some use. The spider arm cost me £85 delivered, I got the bearings at a local bearing company for about £7 (instead of the £25+ the washing machine spares companies wanted online) , and I bought a new bearing seal seal for £16 delivered, my thinking being it should now last me many more years. I had to take the plastic drum apart to do this, and while the seal between the two halves looked fine, I also spent about £5 on sealant that I put over the seal to make sure I had a water tight drum. In addition to this I had to buy thread locker for another £7 (got the one in a lipstick kind of dispenser so ave loads left for another use) and had to give my local exhaust place a drink for them removing the nut holding the spider arm on with their air tools as I couldn't budge it So I ended up spending about £135 on parts, plus an annoying £12 on phone calls to Espares (they said it was 5p a min, not sure how it worked out at £12, but I'm not alone in being hacked off at this, wasn't going to phone them to argue). My presumption being that hopefully the machine lasts just as long again. But again I THINK I wasted most of it and all I needed to do was replace the motor rubbers. Note, most, if not all the internet spares companies are the same company under many different names. I phoned three times, once to enquire about the spider arm and once to enquire about the rubber for the motors. . Once I was was cut off wile on hold, hence my 3 calls. I was not impressed to find the calls cost me £12, so I wouldn't recommend phoning them under any circumstance.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks Fio. It's a very interesting experiment. Might be worth checking with some washing machines whether they have option buttons available that add more water during rinses. Sometimes there are option buttons, often labelled as economy buttons, or faster wash buttons, that reduce the amount of water to save time and resources. So it's always worth checking the instruction manual to make sure you are using a wash cycle that washes properly (not quick washes) and you are not using any option buttons that may reduce the amount of water taken in. Alternatively your method may be worth trying although it is clearly a lot of messing about, but well worth it for you and anyone else plagued with this issue. Just for reference here is my article listing other common causes for when the laundry comes out badly creased for anyone else researching this problem. I have also added a link to this topic for others to read. Taking the laundry out of the drum quickly after it has finished spinning is also a recommended option. Some washing machines have an anti-crease function that gently turns the drum every so often after the final spin, but most don't.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Frankie It was the recirculation pump. These machines have 2 pumps - 1 to drain and 1 to recirculate the water. You can either replace the individual pump, or there's a unit that is the part with 2 pumps already attached (I went for this option - it worked out cheaper than a pump on it's own!) This video give you a general guide on how to access the pump, but don't bother removing the front panel with the door - it doesn't come off! (I only discovered this after removing the door seal, which turned out to be a waste of time!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cPl22OC9f4 Once you've removed the kick panel and the top panel, you'll see the pump at the bottom of the machine. Be warned it's quite fiddly with tight access, but with a bit of perseverance and patience, it can be done (and is very satisfying afterwards). Whilst the machine was apart, i took the opportunity to clean the pipes that i could access from the detergent draw, recirculation pipe etc. It's amazing how much gunk was in those pipes
  18. 1 point
    Yes it's strange. Is the mark by any chance the same size as one of the holes in the drum? The first thing I would do is put the washing machine on a boil wash or at least 60 degrees. Put in some detergent but no laundry. You might also want to try some of the specially designed washing machine cleaning products. The closest article I have is about rust spots on clothes after washing but I don't know if they are rust spots or not.
  19. 1 point
    I would give the opposite advice and suggest you may need to put more in. The symptom you describe of slight banging of the drum on the sides as the washing machine is slowing down from a spin is typical of a load out of balance. That's more usually underloading than overloading. Having said that I'm mindful of the fact that you've been using the washing machine for some time and this has only started happening so we can't rule out a fault somewhere. However, it's by far the most likely cause. Read my article here to get an idea of the issue Washing machine jumps and bangs on spin but essentially the biggest cause of unbalanced loads is not enough laundry in the drum to spread evenly all around it. Also having one or two very absorbent items such as towels in with a lot of lighter items.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks. it was a few mm too thick, so I fixed it to a rod into my cordless drill, put it on reverse, turned on my bench grinder, and it took it off easily and left it perfectly round Also used rubber washerss, and it's very very secure (had to use washing up liquid to get the motor over them) I'm just wondering whether I've wasted a load of money. new bearings (got from local bearing shop so not too much) and new spider arm all to stop it banging on spin, but as the rubber had disintegrated/turned to dust, maybe that was the problem all along Ah well, its all back together and running perfectly at the moment, Did a quick short rinse and spin, zero knocking, now doing a full load, so far silence (it was so loud I reckon my neighbor two doors away could have heard it)
  21. 1 point
    Holds the outer part of the seal to the front o f the cabinet
  22. 1 point
    Hi Andy, thanks for your reply. I found a blockage in the drain and have cleared this, I think this was causing the water to back up. Unfortunately I think this has caused the pump to blow which is what tripped the power the other day. The machine is a Beko WM 74155 LW it looks like I can pick one up for about £30. I've been looking at some videos but do you or anyone else have any real world experience of changing the pump on these machines? Is it doable for a moderately competent DIYer?
  23. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Just thought i'd update you on my progress. Managed to get some help from Dave at the UK Whitegoods forum. Apparently a common failure on Control modules and not just ISE or washing machines for that matter, is the failure of the power converter chip (red arrow in second image). This failure tends to blow the low value resistor that can be found connected in series with the supply to the chip (first image). I am awaiting for parts to arrive and will see if this fixes the problem. In addition I found a video on you tube of an engineer having to replace the same parts on a tumble dryer. I will let you know if this works. Cheers Andy
  24. 1 point
    hello there - from what you are describing it sounds like an emergency drain hose so that if for some reason the main drain hose is blocked or the drain pump stops working you can place a tray (or bowl if there is enough room) take the bung out and manually drain out the drum to take your clothes out of the drum . - also there for should you are cleaning out the pump and want to drain out the last bit of remaining water in the pump before you remove the pump filter to clean it.
  25. 1 point
    Great help from Candy/Hoover on telephone equates to as follows: ____________________________________________________ For a drain blockage (E03 error) - The pipe you need to be cleaning out is found behind the flap at the front of the machine (bottom left). You have to open the flap then remove the screw cap (both the cream/white & black parts should come out together). Then feel inside the cavity with hand for the draining hole (should be to the right). I cleaned the hole using a hooked coat hanger and it fixed the problem. I'm sure there are proper tools and be careful using anything other than a proper tool - I hooked my coat hanger tightly into a reed shape so no 'prongy' bits were able to damage the piping. If you have some leaking afterward, you may not have screwed the screw cap back on correctly - it's a little awkward. ______ I had washed a rug and the back had disintegrated into powder which had blocked the drainage tube.
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