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  1. 1 point
    Hi Andy and thanks for the response. I traced the cables back to the circuit board from the valves and worked my way back from there. They are controlled by a bank of Triac's and MOV's triggered from the main microcontroller. One of the triacs had gone bad, i isolated this just using a basic diode check function on a multimeter which indicated that there was no voltage drop across the component. Replaced with a new triac (Z0107NA if anyone is interested) and all is well again! Its not something i would recommend unless you have experience with soldering electronics as these components are heat sensitive and easily damaged whilst fitting. Ive tested on each cycle now and none of the programming seems to have been affected either. Thanks for the quick response anyway and have a nice day!
  2. 1 point
    I just wanted to say a sincere thanks to HCF for this very useful advice. It's the only useful thing on the internet about this bloody drawer! Finally got it open thanks to this and cleaned out a horrible amount of gunk. Service wash now happily working away.
  3. 1 point
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks I got one, it's a Beko one, apparently they are the same. It was £20.
  5. 1 point
    Hi there Chris, Just joined the forums after reading your post, I'm willing to bet that you managed to fix up that old servis. I have one myself which i am offering if you want one for spares? You can have it free if you cover transport costs. Or you can pick up from Scotland. Regards, Dave.
  6. 1 point
    I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat
  7. 1 point
    HI Andy, You could be right I will have to try that. There is no such instruction like that in the manual but I did manage to cancel the selection by frantically pressing the CANCEL button..LOL Dave
  8. 1 point
    I THINK YOU GOT IT!!!! I have connected the right spring (the one with yellow marking) in the wrong slot. Sh*******T. I am lucky that it did not break! I confirmed it by looking at the video I followed to change the bearings. Right now a washing is running. As soon as it is done, I guess I will have to open the machine again, take down all the weights and then reattach it in the right slot. Or do you think I can do it (re-fit the spring) with care without opening everything up again? THANKS YOU SO MUCH!
  9. 1 point
    Hi Kal402, thanks so much for the info. We've booked a dryer repairman to come in a week or so. He didn't know what the metal strip was. I think we're experiencing similar problems as you with the different cycles so we'll double check and also send him this post. Thanks again and I'll update this post once we know for definite. Best wishes.
  10. 1 point
    Thankyou for your advice. Will let you know how we get on.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Andy! I think it maybe the 30 minutes cycle then, however i only use it when it's a 2-3 item. Will let you know the outcome in couple of weeks
  12. 1 point
    Yes it looks the same but there are quite a few that look the same and I can't tell what will work and what won't. It says it should work so I should be able to send it back if it won't. Will see when it arrives.
  13. 1 point
    This pump comes up when I search 4Washerhelp spare parts for Indesit IWME126 - Indesit Drain Pump "Approved Spare" - it's £25
  14. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, yes, I have checked out the articles for dead machine and door interlock - both very helpful. Mains cable and suppressor (filter?) all check out although, confusingly, the connector after the filter has live on blue and neutral on brown! (connector only fits one way round). I checked the resistance of both heaters - 27 ohms for the washer, 35 ohms for the dryer. Also checked the motor - 8.5 ohms between any pair of terminals. I removed the front control PCBs andI reconnected the door lock and connected to the mains just to check for voltages on the control PCBs - they seemed very low - approx. 250mV - so there seems to be continuity but surely not enough volts to power the control panels?! I will continue to check for broken wires. Thanks again
  15. 1 point
    Hi Andy. Many thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go. Dan
  16. 1 point
    Thank you so much - I have tried brute force - pliers, screwdriver, knife lol and it still won't budge, which is how I broke it in the first place I will try taking off the back panel and see how I go - thank you for your help
  17. 1 point
    The fan is the circular grey object visible at the rear right hand side of the machine once you take the lid off, the hot air ducting leads to it. You'll need a T20 torx bit I think to remove the screws which hold the top cover of the fan, you won't be able to get the fan cover off fully but that doesn't matter, you only need to lift it enough to provide access to the fan blades. I just use a set of tweezers to pull the lint out from between the blades.
  18. 1 point
    Thank you I’ve ordered one from there .
  19. 1 point
    No problem Andy and thanks again. I'll open them up and see if it's anything obvious. Thanks
  20. 1 point
    Andy Thanks again for replying. It's a good old machine. I've replaced the pump & the drum bearings over the years, everything else is original, and it still looks tidy. It was one of the first machines claiming to be environment friendly with 'economy programmes' so your bio idea is probably spot on. It's still usable with the wash temperature turned right down to allow the program to advance, and I would rather have the spare part ready before dismantling, so I haven't seen the wiring yet. I know it has 4 tags plus earth, so separate connections to each heater. I found information about the original heater on a German website which tells me the rear flange is 70 x 18mm. I expect that this size is common for many AEG and other machines. Am I correct? Thanks once more
  21. 1 point
    Hi Andy, yes you might be right about the sprung (wooden?) floors. My Miele was on internal concrete floor and I could leave a pound coin standing on its side when spinning at max rev. Talking of which, given those comments seemed to be from fairly reasonable people, it might be that they got zero advice from the sales or delivery people during purchase or installation. Unless you are one of those people who likes reading manuals cover to cover, I guess these mistakes are bound to happen for many owners.
  22. 1 point
    An update, the new element is in and the electric is no longer tripping, yay! I found it quite hard fixing the new circlips. On the YouTube video he had a tool for it. I used a piece of cut off push fit pipe to hammer them down, which kinda worked. One fixed down tight straight away but the other was more fiddly and wouldn’t go down tight. In the end I resorted to carefully tapping around it with a screwdriver and hammer. So I got the machine back together with just the top to go on and I clumsily managed to brake the plastic clips off trying to work out how to put it on, ah man! Didn’t even use much effort and they just sheared off. Anyway the machine is working, so that’s the main thing. Probably just fix the clips with some sugru. Cheers for the help Andy and all the best.
  23. 1 point
    When the machine is plugged into mains it performs some check, interesting fact is that the door lock remains locked at all time. When the selection is left on OFF it doesn't go into draining, only when the program selection is made and program either started or not. To be honest I have left the machine draining until it stops itself only couple of times when I acquired it as I'm not sure if it is safe for the pump to be running dry. So I have to try that again to see if it produces any error itself. From what I understood from the manual it only shows the type of error which can be rectified by consumer. I think I will try to send the PCB for a test to QER next week as you suggest, I haven't found this type of PCB in their order search though so I hope they will be able to test it.
  24. 1 point
    Hi the machine is fixed. We only took the back panel off. From the front panel where the tube should of been we put a wire through there to come out from the end of the machine. We then got the tube taped it up to the wire and pulled the wire from the front panel out slowly to get the tube out. I then put the plastic cap on.
  25. 1 point
    A further update: She's alive The water heating element arrived yesterday (good service from you & DPD as I only ordered Saturday PM) and was fitted this morning. I put the meter on and the heater was showing 31 ohms, thermistor around 22k ohms. I did notice the element was 1700W rather than 1800W on the original, so the water heating will be a little slower. The thermistor was also on the other side of the earth, but no problem as the connecting wire is long enough. Tried a pump out- all OK Tried a quick wash program as a test. Got three minutes in without an error F-07 throwing, tested the voltage and was seeing a full 230 VAC The machine has now completed two complete wash cycles and the backlog mountain of washing is coming down It's really quite strange that the original F-08 was solved, but an F-07 remained. The original heater element was definitely showing around 30 ohms, and metered out OK so I am glad I rechecked my work and found the open circuit. I spent hours tracing and rechecking the circuit boards to adapt the edge connectors to a different configuration. It appears that F-07 may not always refer to a failure of the heater relays, perhaps the output is limited by the board in some way to 140 VAC when the current flow is not what is expected, I'm not sure how clever the electronics on the board is ? Posting for posterity to hopefully help others, but also in case there's further insight. Curious how what seemed to be a blockage on the float was fixed and a second problem presented itself. Maybe the heater element was the issue all along, even though it checked out with a meter OK originally. I think I now have a spare control board as the first replacement I bought showed the same F-07 error. I hope I never need it.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    I removed the main pcb to look for bad connections joints etc but everything looked fine. After putting it all back together it worked! I'm guessing there was a bad connection somewhere. I read up somewhere that the motor control unit senses excess suds by analysing the current draw on the motor... interesting. Thank you again Andy for your replies and help. wayne
  28. 1 point
    Yes the main PCB, not the control panel. Exactly when does it produce the error? That may provide a clue. Put it on a 40 degree cottons wash and write down everything it does, and time everything up until the error. For example when the error triggers what exactly was it doing? Was it 10 mins into a wash and turning the drum back and forth, or was it 40 mins in and draining the water away? Could you hear the water heating up?
  29. 1 point
    Hi Andy, this is the machine with the latest analogue pressure sensor with the magnet inside the coil. The machine does its check when plugged in mains (electricity) and when selection of a program is made and I think sets itself to a safety mode upon receiving this incorrect feedback. It also never release the latch on the lock so the door remain locked at all times. The discovery is that I think that there are 2 seconds delay before the PCB locks the display front panel after the program selection is made and if I press START the program immediately after it is made available on the display the program then starts and runs for 2-3 seconds and is aborted with the drain pump coming on (the display and controls then become locked) keeping draining for 3-4 minutes and then stops as I think is programmed for safety mode so that with the valves shut the drum should be emptied in that time. It is very much possible that the programs begin with short draining. I think that the voltage return from the pressure switch should fluctuate between 5 - 10 V and I'm reading constant 9.4 V, it sort of explains the symptoms for me at this moment. The sensor is £40 from Bosch , but I found exactly the same at ApplianceSparesWarehouse for £18 so I will give it a go to replace it and see if it would fix the error. Many thanks again for your thoughts and information on the subject as it directs me towards understanding the logic of the machine's behavior.
  30. 1 point
    Pressure switch should normally be off or on. Historically they’ve just been off until the correct amount of water creates enough pressure to switch the pressure switch on. The latest type of pressure switch seems to have a magnet inside a coil so potentially they might detect proper levels. If a pressure system is telling a washing machine it has water in when it hasn’t it usually tries to wash and rinse with no water in the drum. But modern washing machines operate the pump for 30 seconds before filling to wash. So it’s possible they check to make sure there’s no water in before filling. But I would still expect it to try draining the water out for a few minutes before giving up. If the pressure system is saying it has water in when it hasn’t I would still expect it to work on a spin only cycle. I’d expect it to try to drain water out for 2 or 3 minutes waiting for the signal that the water has gone. When it doesn’t get the signal it should then abort without spinning. If the washer thinks it’s overfilled though it should keep pumping trying to get rid of the water. But again I would expect it to try for several minutes at least. If the pressure switch isn’t expensive it might be worth a try but not sure. Fingers crossed.
  31. 1 point
    Did you blow down the pressure pipe the other way? Into the tub? A blockage at the other end can cause problems for sure. It can cause the washing machine to overfill. If a washing machine thinks it is overfilling, it will commonly energise the pump constantly trying to get rid of the excess water. It will keep the pump running until it receives the signal that the water has been pumped away. However, a fault in the pressure system, or a blockage in the pressure system can prevent that signal from ever occurring. Having said that, if there was a blocked pressure system then as soon as you remove the pressure tubing from the pressure switch the air pressure would be released and the pressure switch should switch off. This should stop the problems, at least until more water got into the washing in and caused the problem again. Another fault that can trigger the pump to be running constantly on some washing machines is believe it or not earth faults. If there is an earth fault on some washing machines they can behave bizarrely. So make sure that the washing machine is properly earthed. But more importantly you would really need to check that no parts on the washing machine have low insulation readings. This would require using a specialist meter though that tests with 500 V DC. Also it is common for faulty PCBs to show no visible problems. They can of course have dry joints, or blown parts, but many component failures will not have visible signs. So the lack of any signs doesn't prove anything when it comes to diagnosis.
  32. 1 point
    Hi, yes it solved the issue. You can check by seeing if the wheel can be slightly moved while still attached. Also the fact that when I removed it there was no knocking noise coming from the drum if I rotated it by hand. The new wheel was clearly a snug fit and required a bit of effort to push it into place - this was in contrast to the old wheel that came off easily. Hope it solves your issue.
  33. 1 point
    Despite all the odds my machine is still going without as yet any major faults. I kept on having the quite frequent leak though. Not all the time & luckily as I have Vinyl flooring a nuisance rather than damage. I don't know why I didn't do it earlier as I have always suspected the stupid design to the detergent drawer. So I took out the blue moulded insert. No more leaks. & I do not believe it alters the order of the dispensing at all. And if you use the new pods straight into the drum it's irrelevant. So for those still soldiering on & have a leak this may be the answer.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    cheers andy, this looks very helpful, i'll see what i can do.
  36. 1 point
    Hello Tom. A loud grinding noise when the pump is running is usually caused by a small object that has got inside and is being tossed around by the impeller. It is possible for certain objects, (especially if made of plastic) to float about up the sump hose or even partially up the drain hose. This means they are not discovered when looking for obstructions. But when the washing machine is in operation again they get sucked back into the pump. It's also possible that a bearing has failed on the pump. If the washing machine cannot pump out the water fast enough it will usually refuse to spin. It will just click and stop. But it is possible for it to have pumped enough water out to allow a spin, but then cannot cope with the influx of expressed water from the laundry. This would result in the spin being uneven with lots of water being thrown about inside the drum. This could very easily trigger the out of balance system to either abort the spin, or abort the fastest spin.
  37. 1 point
    Hello Andy thank you so much for the help so far. I will wait until the new pump comes and try installing that first to see if it fixes the problem. I will then get back to you with the results of my findings . Regards
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Andy. It was already non-existent before it was 2 years old. I'll get some advice.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Thanks. Have already emailed Zanussi with the same question, fingers crossed they can help!
  41. 1 point
    Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them to check) do not sell these rubbers separate from the motor (complete con), they probably come in a box of 500 for about £5. I read on a forum somewhere about someone having Samsung out under the warranty and they replaced them so they must have them as spares. I bought a couple of round rubbers at a local motor factors that were similar in size, fixed them to my drill by putting a bolt through them, then turned the drill on and held it against a belt sender, that sanded them down, keeping them perfectly round. It was a struggle getting them into the holes (used washing up liquid and brute force) Machines been perfect since, and I honestly think I wasted money replacing bearings and spider arm, I suspect the rubber on the motor was the cause all along. I would remove your motor and check the rubbers before doing anything else. Attached a pic showing the rubber in the motor. The red arrows point to one washer going through the motor bracket, when I removed the bolts, instead of the rubber going right through, all I had was what looked like two round washers as the inside had totally turned to dust. So you can look at it without removing the bolts and it looks like the rubbers fine as you still see both sides, it's not until the bolts are removed that you see the middles turned to dust. Hope that's of some use. The spider arm cost me £85 delivered, I got the bearings at a local bearing company for about £7 (instead of the £25+ the washing machine spares companies wanted online) , and I bought a new bearing seal seal for £16 delivered, my thinking being it should now last me many more years. I had to take the plastic drum apart to do this, and while the seal between the two halves looked fine, I also spent about £5 on sealant that I put over the seal to make sure I had a water tight drum. In addition to this I had to buy thread locker for another £7 (got the one in a lipstick kind of dispenser so ave loads left for another use) and had to give my local exhaust place a drink for them removing the nut holding the spider arm on with their air tools as I couldn't budge it So I ended up spending about £135 on parts, plus an annoying £12 on phone calls to Espares (they said it was 5p a min, not sure how it worked out at £12, but I'm not alone in being hacked off at this, wasn't going to phone them to argue). My presumption being that hopefully the machine lasts just as long again. But again I THINK I wasted most of it and all I needed to do was replace the motor rubbers. Note, most, if not all the internet spares companies are the same company under many different names. I phoned three times, once to enquire about the spider arm and once to enquire about the rubber for the motors. . Once I was was cut off wile on hold, hence my 3 calls. I was not impressed to find the calls cost me £12, so I wouldn't recommend phoning them under any circumstance.
  42. 1 point
    Thank you! As it isn't my machine and I am certainly not a machine-savvy person, I don't think I would want to try taking the top off. That said, my landlord has been back in touch and she is offering to send around someone to look at it/repair it and I will suggest both of your comment above -- a seal replacement and a look at the hosing between the soap dispenser and drum. I did clean out the soap dispenser, and tried to put some baking soda mixture down the hose, but obviously, with the top still on, the angle didn't guarantee anything. Thanks again!
  43. 1 point
    The engineer is booked for Friday so I'll update you on what it was when fixed.
  44. 1 point
    I have a hotpoint washer with a special 'Bed & Bath' washing cycle and yes indeed it does add more water to the drum when washing and rinsing. I actually have a hot water tap next to my washing machine and even though my washing machine is cold fill only on quick was it doesnt even fill up to the lip to the washing machine door gasket, so uses very little water. so I have fitted a rubber hose (a spare washing machine inlet hose ) to the hot water tap and as the machine starts its filling up with cold water I put the hot water pipe into the soap drawer and turn on the hot tap until the water is between a quarter and halfway up the drum, not only does it fill up the machine drum quicker because both hot and cold water are going in it also takes less time to heat up the water in the drum because hot water is going in along with the cold water. I know a lot of faffing about and have to manually turn off the hot tap when the drum is at the right water level but its worth it. - so instead of the long Bed & Bath programme I can set the machine to do my bedsheets on fastwash at 60c and 1200rpm spin in only an hour and they come out grand nice and clean and not creased . - then although you cannot beat the freshness and smell of bedsheets that have been line dried , I do place them in the tumble drier because they come out softer than on the line and no creases so therefore dont need ironing and can go straight on the bed. - I sometimes toss 2 of those plastic tumble drier balls into the drum of the drier as well as the sheets and pillow cases - only trouble is sometimes the tumble drier balls get caught up in the pillow cases or duvet covers. - in any case I have found they come out fine. - I have found as well that even if your washing machine went up to 1600rpm that people use that for all , if not most, of their laundry - sure the faster the speed of the spin the more water extracted and the quicker the clothes will dry but then they will be creased to hell when they have finished spinning. thats why i choose 1200 or 1,000rpm and sometimes if its just light cotton 800rpm - in fact if you put your machine on 'delicates' or non-crease -it normally will spin at 800rpm max for this reason .
  45. 1 point
    Another photo showing location of plastic tube - in area circled red
  46. 1 point
    Hi Frankie It was the recirculation pump. These machines have 2 pumps - 1 to drain and 1 to recirculate the water. You can either replace the individual pump, or there's a unit that is the part with 2 pumps already attached (I went for this option - it worked out cheaper than a pump on it's own!) This video give you a general guide on how to access the pump, but don't bother removing the front panel with the door - it doesn't come off! (I only discovered this after removing the door seal, which turned out to be a waste of time!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cPl22OC9f4 Once you've removed the kick panel and the top panel, you'll see the pump at the bottom of the machine. Be warned it's quite fiddly with tight access, but with a bit of perseverance and patience, it can be done (and is very satisfying afterwards). Whilst the machine was apart, i took the opportunity to clean the pipes that i could access from the detergent draw, recirculation pipe etc. It's amazing how much gunk was in those pipes
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Andy, really appreciate the advice. In the end I bit the bullet and ordered a new machine. Cheers, Matt
  48. 1 point
    Yes it's strange. Is the mark by any chance the same size as one of the holes in the drum? The first thing I would do is put the washing machine on a boil wash or at least 60 degrees. Put in some detergent but no laundry. You might also want to try some of the specially designed washing machine cleaning products. The closest article I have is about rust spots on clothes after washing but I don't know if they are rust spots or not.
  49. 1 point
    I would give the opposite advice and suggest you may need to put more in. The symptom you describe of slight banging of the drum on the sides as the washing machine is slowing down from a spin is typical of a load out of balance. That's more usually underloading than overloading. Having said that I'm mindful of the fact that you've been using the washing machine for some time and this has only started happening so we can't rule out a fault somewhere. However, it's by far the most likely cause. Read my article here to get an idea of the issue Washing machine jumps and bangs on spin but essentially the biggest cause of unbalanced loads is not enough laundry in the drum to spread evenly all around it. Also having one or two very absorbent items such as towels in with a lot of lighter items.
  50. 1 point
    I couldn't give a definitive answer, but I would have thought if you put loctite on the threads and screw them in then the water wouldn't get to it and the loctite should hold the bolts.
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