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  1. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    3 points
  2. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    3 points
  3. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  6. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  7. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  8. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  9. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  10. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  11. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  12. Andy you were correct, it was a small screw like object. Looks like I will have to be more accurate next time. How can I donate you some money for a beer? You saved me quite a lot of money.
    1 point
  13. Hello Tom. It's difficult to hear anything drastically wrong there although I can hear a strange noise high-pitched noise every so often. The main thing I noticed is that the drum and motor seem to be running quite unevenly. Was there a small load of laundry in when you took the video? It looked as if there was an unbalanced load in there, which can stop it from going into a fast spin. It might be better to try running it again without any laundry in at all.
    1 point
  14. Hi All, I would really like to extend thanks to bob12241 - and other contributors on this thread. We have a BEKO WDX8543130W purchased August 2018 which stopped working over a week ago mid-September, with the lights off on the main pannel failure and hearing the very slight (mouse type) beep coming from the machine. After googling and finding this thread/forum for which I am eternally greatful, we set out to fix it. Therefore, for a 45p Schottky Rectifier (100V 2A DO-204AL) and a £12 Solder kit from Amazon, we fixed the machine within 45 minutes based upon comments and very very
    1 point
  15. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  16. In case anyone needs to order replacement diode: Supplier Farnell, Item Code 2849663 Description: STPS2H100 SCHOTTKY RECTIFIER, 100V, 2A, DO-204AL
    1 point
  17. Much gratitude to bob12241 and jonboyuk for taking the time to write these instructions. My 4 year old Beko had precisely this problem and replacing the D7 diode with a 'STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying Diode 100V 2A' did the trick! Now I just need to fix the issue with the dryer that cuts out after a minute or two!
    1 point
  18. But you narrowed it down to 3 things... plus I knew I could send the PCB back if I fitted it carefully and it didn't work So it was an easy thing to try. Thanks again.
    1 point
  19. Ok, that is clear now. Thank you for your answer.
    1 point
  20. Thanks very much kind sir you've given me am idea to diagnose my own problem with a washer dryer.
    1 point
  21. Hi. I might be misunderstanding but it sounds like the pump impeller which if it’s come off the shaft will mean the pump will no longer pump water?
    1 point
  22. I think you might be right. it does just wipe off and the blackest thing on that side is a diode that stick works, on the other side in that location is a Power Integration IC, but aside from the black on the PCB it seems ok. that relay directly above is refusing to switch though. the board is away from the machine, testing it with an external power source)
    1 point
  23. Yes they push all these really big drum capacities but most people would struggle to fill the drum for most washes. If you don't fill the drum with a great big load you can under-load it and are wasting all the economical advantage of having a large drum capacity. If you buy a large capacity drum it should mean you wash half as often or otherwise there's little advantage other than you have the extra capacity for something that wouldn't normally fit in.
    1 point
  24. Thanks for your reply - unfortunately I did contact Ransom spares first who were at a loss as to what size was needed and it was they who advised me to get in touch with Hotpoint. Luckily my husband has already replaced bearings on other machines - successfully so instead of a new machine it's worth laying out around £20 to give it a try!! When I do find out the bearing sizes I shall post on here to let other people know.
    1 point
  25. Thanks - that makes sense. I've ordered a new seal and I'll investigate downstream if the new seal doesn't fix the leak. Very grateful for your advice.
    1 point
  26. And I also need to correct the guesswork in the latter part of this thread - at some point, after looking at another's user olde Miele, it appeared to be the case that the heater fan in his model was located in the bottom of the washer/dryer. Mistake - in the case of the WT2780 the heater fan is definitely on the top of the machine, though a duct connects this fan to something at the bottom of the machine, but not sure what....
    1 point
  27. Hi Andy. For me washing machines are just too functional and unreliable, and don't last long enough to justify spending obscene amounts on one
    1 point
  28. does indeed look like the moisture sensor bar , at the bottom of the drum , inside the drum itself - imaging that tearing off like that. Pretty bad. All i can think is that a bit of clothing catches on the metal strip sensor and then must 'pull' it out of the sensor bar housing cover . pretty poor design in that respect . I have just bought a new BEKO vented tumble dryer with sensor drying and I have noticed on these new ones they have removed the moisture bars totally from inside the drum altogether and have now put a sensor for detecting the moisture right underneath the lint/fluff filter no
    1 point
  29. I will have a good read of it and follow through with all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated!!
    1 point
  30. Thank you Bob and team! D7 Diode replaced on a 18 month old machine with minimal use in our holiday lodge. Another successful cheap fix here! £1.75 including P&P Much to my husbands surprise and delight. (Although the extra screws, plastic stay and double-sided sticky tape that holds the black box on did flummox him to start with). Beko you must take this problem seriously and get all your WDIR7543101 's with this issue fixed free of charge to keep some loyal customers from leaving you.
    1 point
  31. Just to provide an update, I had a visit from the Samsung engineer and after checking over the machine at the back, he confirmed that the motor is faulty and needs to be totally replaced. There's an issue with the magnets inside the motor itself which was causing the terrible noise
    1 point
  32. Seems to be an issue with hotppint dryers..mine is just under 2 years old..had to have a new belt on recently and now this exact same thing..the sensor strip..it's still screwed in but the other end has just come off..it twisted around the washing ripping some of the clothes attached to it..it was a mangled mess..and pushed on the door that much it popped open from the force of the mangled clothes pushing against it.. I wish I'd kept my old hotpoint dryer and had the fix on it when they were being recalled for fire hazard..my old 1 was 6 years old and not a problem with it..I just feel th
    1 point
  33. Thanks Andy Good summary and considered opinion, I fully agree with you. I wish I knew this when my wife was singing the virtues of these machines and we made the mistake of buying one. No more washer/dryers for me. Thank you very much.
    1 point
  34. Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob
    1 point
  35. Getting back to our wonderful WT2780 - shades of deja vu as yet again I go traipsing around the internet for clues... This thread is particularly interesting, as the guy clearly has techical nouse regarding the drying issue of his Miele model (4 web pages via link) - https://www.fixya.com/support/t1615585-miele_wt945_washer_dryer And here they give photos of the dubious dryer unit itself: https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying What I think I've learned so far is: - the element for the dryer unit sits in a metal box above the drum - I assume ei
    1 point
  36. Hi Lesley The whole unit complete with casing comes out, in previous post I said that you have to jiggle it about, passing it down and under some pipes or other obstructions. You may have to cut 1 or 2 cable ties that hold the wiring loom in place in order to get enough slack to remove it. I assume the screws you are talking about are the ones that hold the casing in place, if not you have to remove them first. If you google "main circuit board Beko WDx854130w" and go to images you will see some with and some without the case. Regards Rob
    1 point
  37. I have exactly the same problem.. Hotpoint WMEF742 bleeps at random throughout the wash cycle. It started doing it when machine was about 5 years old? Water pressure fine so definitely not that. Often completes a cycle with no bleeps at all. Heats up and washes fine. I have just pressed the delay timer button as advised by someone previously and the bleeping has stopped! The manufacturer must be aware of this obvious fault as there are so many people posting on here with the same problem?
    1 point
  38. Same mistake here. I got it "semi-easily" out by screwing a large long screw through the rubber in the middle and then pulling out from the screw. The rubber came out with the screw quite easily and then the whole heater came out. Hope it helps.
    1 point
  39. Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back
    1 point
  40. Found the problem inner drum spider corroded, everything else was very good condition for a 10 year old + washer .now need to find one at a good price or buy a new washer.
    1 point
  41. Hi, I have a 3 year old washer dryer Beko WDW85140, which suddenly stopped working, no LED light and no display just dead. I contacted the manufacturer Beko for goodwill and asked to send 3 boards. I am an electrician and electrical engineer, but I did not have the time or the desire to deal with the error as to which circuit board was defective. Now Beko accepted my goodwill, but unfortunately today I only got the engine control module. When I was looking for board names on the Internet, I came across your site. Tonight I immediately got the diode from electronics dealer Conrad and sol
    1 point
  42. Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
    1 point
  43. Just re-read the whole of this post Bosch Serie 8 Washing Machines have multiple door types....mine was on the WAW28560GB/01 (same hinge as the GB/07)
    1 point
  44. Whirlpool has issued a recall notice on some of its models of washing machines due to a potential safety concern. It affects certain models of Hotpoint and Indesit washing machines made between October 2014 and 2018 and it is feared more than 11,000 machines in UK & Ireland may be impacted. A flaw with the door-locking system may lead them to overheat and potentially catch fire. Whirpool launched an urgent recall of certain models of tumble dryers over fire safety fears in July of this year. If you think your washing machine might be affected, you can check by calling 0
    1 point
  45. In retrospect I'm not sure this has been a complete success.... No fear. I've just found out my machine is now on the fire recall list! Everyone take note and check the news today on this subject.
    1 point
  46. I think you may have just saved my sanity! I've tried everything, cleaned it the drawer, made sure there were no kinks in the hose, cleaned the filter, tried it on different wash settings. It's been doing this for a year, manual says nothing on it! Thought maybe it was an uneven load warning. It does it on different stages of the cycle so just couldn't work it out. I've just pressed the delay button and voila! No beeping. How did you know how to solve it? And why does this solve it?!
    1 point
  47. @Whitegoodshelp (Andy) You're an absolute legend, your post pointed me in the direction of the TOC (hermal Overload Cutout). Tested it and saw it was overloading that had caused the cutout and so have reset and modified our washing behaviour! Thank you so much, as it's saved us an engineer visit or me trying to replace a heating element! (I've clicked on several of your affiliate links on the site and will be sure to do more if we need anything white goods related in future)
    1 point
  48. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    1 point
  49. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    1 point

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