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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    4 points
  2. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  3. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  4. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  5. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The
    2 points
  6. Just an update - Beko engineer attended this afternoon - had to replace two components, one was a capacitor and the other was a PCB. he suggested one caused the other, but unsure why it happened. I asked if it was unusual for a 3 week old machine to need two components replacing, he said he had never seen a new range go after 3 weeks anyway its all fixed now - im a little nervous with a new machine needing new parts straight away..........
    1 point
  7. Thanks for that, that must be what that disintegrated mess is! After s some more hunting about I found this diagram. In case it's helpful for anyone else doing this job😊
    1 point
  8. HI Andy, You most likely right as to how it got damaged. I guess whatever it was, contributed to the failure. Thanks for all your help guys.
    1 point
  9. Someone round here was collecting for Dementia UK so I hope that's a good enough one for you. I bunged them a tenner. Again, thanks Bob
    1 point
  10. I have a Bosch Serie 4 machine and have recently been experiencing similar marks especially on my duvet covers which have to be sprayed with pre-wash and put back into the machine on a rinse cycle which thankfully removes the marks. I have been cleaning the rubber around the door seal and lip of the drum every time I use the machine but the marks still appeared. However, today I removed the soap dispenser and the underneath was covered in black mould so I gave the dispenser a good clean with HG mould spray and I even cleaned the inside especially the top where the water enters with a tooth br
    1 point
  11. Reawakening this topic...... Same machine, no heat when drying, trip pops, reset trip, pops after a while drying. Look on this forum (thanks everyone for posting) for info to get the fan off — struggle as you all have here - why did they design this machine in this way? Eventually lift fan enough to examine fan blades - big disappointment - hardly any fluff deposit! So figure that the blockage may be further along maybe in the tunnel over the drum to the front door seal area? Decide I need a thin torx driver rather than my hex set as it won’t fit through the frame holes - but
    1 point
  12. Fixed it! I found a relay in the pcb with a loose connection - quick solder was all it took (once I'd found the problem)
    1 point
  13. Ok, that's smart. Yes pump is running. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TsgtDfHQBHCjUC9e9
    1 point
  14. Just wanted to close the loop on this: took me a while to get parts (LG 5220FR2075L & 5220FR2006H) and arrange for repair help, but replacing the two water inlet control valves above did solve the problem. The leak was on the cold side, but it made sense once all the trouble had been gone through to unstack the dryer and open up the washer to replace both valves. Thanks.
    1 point
  15. Here are some more photos.... the first is with both the fan box and the hot air box. They do both come out fairly easily, the fan box just pushes into the back of the drum, but remember to retrieve the rubber, slightly square seal, and reseat properly. In terms of access, if you tilt the machine then the drum moves giving you access to various bolts etc without having to take too much apart. Lastly, I use little pictures and cardboard and push the screws through as I remove them so I know where they go back and in what order. Here are all the screws you need to remove to get to
    1 point
  16. Jayj, you have spured me on last night to fix my drying issue..... so I took apart the machine and cleaned out all of the dirt/fluff.... here are some photos..... There are a number of videos to open the top of the machine, but once inside, if you open up the silver box this is were the heating elements are. There are three 30torx screws holding this down, and it is also sealed. You will need some heat resistant silicon sealant (say from Halfords) to reseal. Note that it is hinged on the right hand side. You can see all the dirt/soap scum etc inside mine. To open, undo the three torx and
    1 point
  17. Very interesting - and helping to make this thread a must-read for Miele Washer Dryer owners - even newer ones, since according to my engineer (who was too discreet to admit the stuff you heard) the newer machines use the SAME system... As I mentioned, I never had any issues with my first Indesit washer/dryer 20 odd years ago (fluff filter), nor the subsequent Zanussi (no rinse out fluff option) and they did far more drying. So I think his analysis is spot on. I didn't even realise you could use the Extra Water option with Rinse Out Fluff, but now do it. And yes, I suspect the S
    1 point
  18. Thanks Andy Checked the brushes, low and behold both of down to almost nothing. Got new spares and fitted them it started up straight away and has been running fine. Small bit of rattling noise from drum but running like new again. Cheers
    1 point
  19. Very true I guess, was just hoping some here had already done it. I don't even mind breaking something to get it apart as long as its an easy fix. I'll try and get a screw driver in the tiny gap at the bottom to undo the screws I think and see how I get on. I've not come across something yet that's been totally unserviceable by the end user but this has got me stumped. Thank for the help, hopefully someone may come forward thats done it but in the mean time if I get the screws out and it works ill repost with a how to incase anyone else needs it.
    1 point
  20. Hi. This fault could be caused by many different things. All possible causes are in this article drum not turning
    1 point
  21. In case anyone's interested, it was the display pcb. I ended up also ordering the rotary switch and replacing that too for good measure, Still half the price of getting a Hoover Candy technician out (even with replacement parts still under warranty) and tell me that the part needs to be ordered in and installed in two weeks.
    1 point
  22. Hi Ajwicks, I have had a quick look on Beko website and the only info I can give is on page 64 section 7 items 1&2. This does mention a problem where a power failure might cause the machine to go into self protection mode and the solution they offer is to press and hold the on/off button for 3 seconds. If that fails it could be either of the 2 main boards, not gonna be cheap. Check all connections in case one has worked loose. Link to manual below https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.net/bekoupload/manuals/WDR7543121.pdf Regards Rob
    1 point
  23. Another registration just to thank bob12241. Our Beko WDIY854310F failed to power on as of Sunday evening - mysteriously a mere 5 days after the 2 year warranty expired. Sounds like a lot of people have experienced this incredible coincidence! As in Bob’s post, D7 on the distribution PCB had failed short when tested out of circuit. Very easy 50p repair. Very happy to help anybody locally with a similar problem - we are between Portsmouth & Southampton. Many thanks, Bob.
    1 point
  24. Hi Antony, sounds like your heater filters might be blocked or the fan, as it is maybe overheating due to lack of airflow. When this happens the thermal cutout activates to prevent overheating and potentially a fire. The heaters are normally on the rear of the drum, you will need to check the drying ventilation system through. Regards Rob
    1 point
  25. Andy you were correct, it was a small screw like object. Looks like I will have to be more accurate next time. How can I donate you some money for a beer? You saved me quite a lot of money.
    1 point
  26. Just signed up to say a massive thank you to @bob12241, replacing the D7 diode on the main controller of my 16 month old Beko WDR8543121W washer drier solved the issue of my machine not turning on too. Followed the advice of others by buying an up-rated STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying 100V 2A diode, so total repair cost was just £2.10! Interestingly I was getting strange / unexpected readings from other diodes so wasn't sure if they were bust too, but I think as someone on the thread point out, you won't necessarily get accurate readings when testing diodes soldered onto a board (need to de-sold
    1 point
  27. Well I finally got to the bottom of the leak and my Samsung Ecobubble is fixed. I removed the tub but before I separated the two plastic pieces of the tub my wife had the idea of filling the tub outside in the garden with water. There no leak from the tub seal but there was a leak in the front half of the plastic tub. This was where a piece of metal had broken off the spider arm was jammed between the outer plastic tub and the tub seal and had scored a groove in the front half of the plastic tub. I had noticed this before but I didn’t realise the groove was so deep. Anyway, I filled the groove
    1 point
  28. Thanks Andy, will have a read of this.
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  31. Well problem solved after all that it was a 5p obstructing the drain pump hose, as I couldn't get the front cover off to remove all of the pump assembly I only swapped the drain pump motor bit, our repair guy had to partially remove the front face of the washer to remove the pump assembly (most washers I have seen just have screws and your off, this one has a faceplate that can only be removed when the front panel of the washer is partially removed) and as he predicted it was a perfectly sized 5p blocking the pipe..ah well you live and learn
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Hi Circuital, Nice to hear your machine working now. With regards to the dryer cutting out after a couple of minutes I can only offer the advice which you will probably find all over the internet. That is to check your dryer filters are clear and the elements are also clear. If you get a build up off lint on the filters it reduces the airflow across the elements resulting in them over heating and the thermal trip activating. Some have 2 trips the first trip is automatically resettable on over heat the second you have to manually reset as that is the fail safe should the first 1 fail. iIf you h
    1 point
  34. Much gratitude to bob12241 and jonboyuk for taking the time to write these instructions. My 4 year old Beko had precisely this problem and replacing the D7 diode with a 'STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying Diode 100V 2A' did the trick! Now I just need to fix the issue with the dryer that cuts out after a minute or two!
    1 point
  35. Hi, I am new to the forum. But have recently come across same problem. My bosch machine is over 4yrs old, out of warranty, bosch engineer booked to come this Friday for £99 call out charges and extra for fixing. I kept fiddling and accidentally got it working once. And then kept trying again, but didnt work. I persisted, and eventually got it working multiple times. I dnt know how long this is going to last. This is what I am doing, i keep pressing start continuously so that machine locks and starts, usually with in 10 seconds. Dnt press and hold, but press & release, press & release,
    1 point
  36. Thanks Bob - decided to go for the slightly uprated 2A diode instead of running with the 5A - extra day wait from Farnell, but here's another success story after a 2 minute, £2 repair to my Beko WDR7543121W washer/dryer, which also just stopped working overnight. Beko probably don't give a monkey's that they have a batch of PCBs with a poor quality component on them and to be fair, it's not wholly Beko's fault. I'd be interested to know if there is a particular manufacture date affected by this. For info, my machine was bought on 11th August 2018 and failed on 5th September 2020.
    1 point
  37. Hi, it should be ok ,apart from its physical size, as that might cause problems.
    1 point
  38. Thanks very much kind sir you've given me am idea to diagnose my own problem with a washer dryer.
    1 point
  39. Miele told me how to reset. Turn machine on, open door, turn power off at wall, wait 20 secs. turn power on at wall, close washing machine door. If does not work, repeat but wait for 5 mins, if not reset, then repeat and wait for 2 hours. Nothing worked, will need to send it back.
    1 point
  40. Hi Mark Good that it's helped you and even better it helps the NHS. Stay safe and best regards Rob
    1 point
  41. Thanks for your quick response, Andy. I have taken the machine apart and split the outer tub to find a melted lump of rubber/plastic jamming between the inner drum and the outer tub. Also there are serious rub/melted plastic/burn marks inside the bottom of the rear outer tub. Looks like the inner steel drum has been rubbing around on it for quite a while. Not sure what the initial cause was but I too suspect overloading - she who must be obeyed disagrees as it is she who does the laundry (no, I'm not a chauvinist, we just split the chores!). The cost of replacement parts is between 3 and 4 hun
    1 point
  42. That's a very sensible attitude, I hate the thought of anyone messing about with things they aren't sure about. As I predicted, of course they will test OK. The fault causing tripping only happens on spin - and only then for a fraction of a second. The fact that when it trips, the washing machine subsequently works perfectly well shows that the cause is not only intermittent but very fleeting. So even after it has tripped the engineer is unlikely to detect anything. This is exactly what would happen if the drum was catching something or a chaffed wire somewhere in the harness i
    1 point
  43. Yes they push all these really big drum capacities but most people would struggle to fill the drum for most washes. If you don't fill the drum with a great big load you can under-load it and are wasting all the economical advantage of having a large drum capacity. If you buy a large capacity drum it should mean you wash half as often or otherwise there's little advantage other than you have the extra capacity for something that wouldn't normally fit in.
    1 point
  44. Hi. Yes I would initially be suspecting exactly what you suggest. With an unbalanced load, which is often a small load with something heavy like towels or sheets mixed with lighter items, the drum can bang about when ramping up to spin and when ramping down. At this point something can catch an short out, usually a chaffed wire somewhere. The large drum capacity washing machines can be very easy to under load. An engineer would disconnect the washer from the mains and remove the lid and back panel then search for a possible cause. Move and simulate the drum banging about and see if i
    1 point
  45. Hi Joe , I can't offer any real advice other than making sure the diode is soldered in the right way round, The silver band indicates the orientation. The diode is likely to fail if some other fault occurred thus overloading the power supply. Regards Rob
    1 point
  46. I also had the same problem, the machine stopped dead in the middle of a cycle, I found this thread and I am delighted to say that on Saturday we swapped out the D7 and the machine sprang back to life. Thanks for posting the solution bob12241 and thanks to jonboyuk for your step by step guide as we have the exact same model. Saved me around £350 and I now know how to do a spot of soldering.
    1 point
  47. Hello there - you didnt specify what make model of washing machine but I predict once you press the aux button for 3 seconds it will matter not what programme you have the dial set to and just go into its normal automatic drum cleaning programme/cycle. Normally for about an hour Drum cleaning is a very hot wash of about 90'c heat , vigorous drum action , then rinse (or more than one rinse) maybe a spin of about 400rpm or 600rpm then end.
    1 point
  48. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    1 point

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