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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
    3 points
  2. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  3. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted the inner cover making sure the door latch was under the cover and drilled into retaining lugs with a 2mm diameter drill (not too deep). This is important to stop the lugs from splitting) I fixed the cover with thin wood screws and a washer. Success.
    2 points
  4. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
    2 points
  5. Hi It's finally gone. Really loved the machine but it was only going to get worse. 15 years November, was really surprised it passed 10. It was still working but after your post I decided that it wasn't worth waiting for it to disintegrate further or spending a minimum of £100 call-out charge just for someone to look at it, so I replaced it instead. I purchased another Zanussi, a ZWF825B4PW 8KG "Autosensor" machine, that apparently has no filter to faff around with (trying to clean that in the previous Zanussi was fairly annoying!). Supposedly it'll steam the clothes if done on a 60 degree wash - if it could iron them as well it'd be perfect 😂 Maybe see you in another 10-15 years! Nah, I'll keep on checking back here, as your advice is always useful.
    1 point
  6. Problem Solved! After considerable searching, I found a supplier in Germany via a well known auction site. Replacement bearings & oilseal kit cost £23.35 including delivery, arrived in 8 days. Now fitted & that machine runs a sweet as it ever has! I think the only failure to be terminal would be the controller or electronic drive unit. Other mechanical parts are still available.
    1 point
  7. Hey Andy, thanks for replying to my topic. I’ve read the article and your reply and that makes a lot of sense. I use gel detergent so I will try switching to a powder. I always put the same amount of detergent in the wash but how much laundry goes in is always different, which explains why some washes are fine (as there is enough detergent) but others end up with items getting grease marks on them (probably not enough detergent). I’ll try switching to powder and experimenting with how much I use and see if that makes a difference. thanks again, really appreciate it 😊
    1 point
  8. Hey - update on the Miele... Another engineer came out today - and found the fault. It was a dodgy suspension spring!
    1 point
  9. Excellent. That’s a faulty connection alright. Well played.
    1 point
  10. Thanks Andy, I actually found a fix for this, so posting in case it helps anyone else. I decided to check the circuit boards for anything obviously wrong. This is what I did: - Unplugged power, took photos of everything so I could remember how it went together, then unplugged all connections onto the boards - Removed the front panel of the machine, which allowed me to remove some of the plastic housing and detach the small PCB that sits behind the main control board. - Checked anything that looked like a relay, and sure enough found a blackened and cracked looking solder connection on one leg of a white relay (search "hf3fd" to see what the relay looked like) - Resoldered this connection, put everything together, and it now works again :)
    1 point
  11. Oh and btw way you are the winner of the best title ever on these forums
    1 point
  12. Hello there. Those numbers aren't part numbers. They never put part numbers on actual parts. They are most likely manufacture numbers to identify batches and dates etc. But the washing machine manufacturer always creates their own part number to identify spare parts and they are never printed on the part. So it's not possible to tell whether there should be any difference. Manufacturers are known to change specifications mid production so it can be a nightmare getting the right part. If the parts look identical you would expect they should be interchangeable but I couldn't say for certain unfortunately. The problem with open circuit motors was mostly on motor is fitted with carbon brushes but to check a motor is not open circuit you would need to put a continuity test meter across the pins. If the motor is working okay before the incident you would expect it to still be okay. It's usually the other way round in that it's common for motors and other parts to short out and damage to printed circuit boards rather than printed circuit boards damaging other parts. As I said before though you can't rule out damage to the display board because they are connected. The only thing I can suggest is contacting the washing machine PCB repair company I mentioned before and asking if they can test your boards. They can test them, repair them, or supply recon ones. But at the end of the day I personally think it's not worth the time and effort on such a vital household appliance unless it's a side project.
    1 point
  13. Wow that's a big electrical short. This is a difficult one. It's a good job you didn't spend potentially over a hundred pounds on a new pcb. It's possible the control board was damaged when the pcb shorted out. It may not necessarily have visible damage (although worth checking) but a component could be damaged. Some of the pcbs need configuring with a special tool or laptop with special software, although that one looks relatively old fashioned. I can't say either way for sure. To be honest if a board shorts out like that I usually advise it's not worth pursuing as you never know what other damage happened. If really determined you could try sending the boards to somewhere like QER electronic repairs for testing.
    1 point
  14. Just checking back to report on the latest development on my lovely Miele Top Loader. I ordered an original Miele heating element from espares in Ireland maybe a month back. It was around €100 but that`s OK for genuine replacement parts (wouldn`t want it any other way) Since replacing the two drum bearings with non original bearings a couple years back, i managed to damage the outer drum that contains the washing water (while elevating it) so water would leak during washing on the side opposite of the engine and belt drive etc. It took some guesswork but it looks like i nailed it in the end. The old heating element must have burned up a long time ago since there was little or no water to dissipate the 2100 watts of heat. I took the time and loosened the retaining "lip" and slowly but surely removed the thin stainless steel drum wall after removing the cast iron weight which was a pain to remove because of all the bolts but is doable. There was a LOT of grease and old dirt on the drum wall so cleaned it to perfection. Also cleaned the rubber gasket and put it back on but ofcourse now knowing it can not be trusted to be watertight...i decided to flood the whole lower 180 degree gasket area with a metric ton of Tec7 sealant. IT WORKED ! Put it all back and hoped for the best. Now there`s not a drop of water coming through the drum So...i knew i could now go ahead and install the new heating element. Happy to report the machine now runs like new and all the washing programs that took like 3-4 hours to complete now only take like 60-90 minutes. So that right there is a good indicator the heating element is dead in the water and needs replacing 😉 I can`t believe i did all this work, but the simple fact is i did and it worked out in the end. I will probably need to replace the two shock absorbers soon but that is a walk in the park compared, lol. Funny to note i found a sticker under the right rubber lip where you put the laundry inside and it said march 8th, 1999. TTFN...
    1 point
  15. Hiya Andy, I replaced the washing machine in the end. Without spare parts to hand, fault finding by swapping parts took too long. Have had a good run of Bosch machines but drew a line with this one as it wasn't a good purchase in hindsight so have took a chance with an Indesit. Was over £100 cheaper than the basic Bosch with a 2 year guarantee so will see how it goes Kind regards, isla
    1 point
  16. Another user who had been caught by this Beko scam. Amazing addvice @bob12241, and an amazing photograph walkthrough guide here too. £3 diode on Amazon and £15 soldering iron later, done. This sort of action by companies should be stopped, but very grateful that groups like this exist to help us out.
    1 point
  17. Hi. Bosch don't produce anywhere near as high quality appliances that they used to in the 70s, 80s and possibly 90s. Some of their base models now are very cheap. However, they have a very good reputation with Which? for reliability and value for money.
    1 point
  18. Unfortunately, there is nothing on Miele official website... However, I just got an information, that the W915 has the same controls as the W913 Allwater. If anybody will needed it, manual could be downloaded at: https://www.manualscat.com/en/miele-novotronic-w915-manual
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. Part installed. No leaks and no deaths and no more tripping. So that's a success. Thanks for your help Dave
    1 point
  21. The first time I changed the heater element on my Hotpoint, I had terrible trouble in getting the old one out. It involved sawing through one electrode so that the metal cover could be revolved a bit so that access to the rubber was obtained. The rubber was then painfully picked out, with pliers and knives. However, the second time it needed changing (about 25 months later) after a lot of tugging and a bit of thought, I arrived at the solution. The only thing that prevents its removal is the piece of rubber on the inner edge which swells when the nut is tightened and stays swollen even when the nut is slackened. My solution was to obtain a scalpel, insert it at the top and the bottom of the seal, and cut through the swollen bit. To ease access, remove the nut and pull the element forward (out) as far as it'll go - about an inch - don't push the rubber through. This was all very easy, and I had the element removed in under a minute! The cut bits of rubber stayed attached. No need to cut all the way round, just most of the top and bottom. The picture shows the cut through the rubber. Richard.
    1 point
  22. Just been reading an article on "planned and programmed premature failure". It mentions Apple (amongst others) being fined for this practice, This led to a €25 million fine in March 2020 from French regulators. Sadly we are too soft in this country. As you say we have become a throw away society, and if you really want to repair it then it will cost a silly amount. should you wish to see the article it makes interesting reading to someone like me who's bored out of his head and got nothing better to do. https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm5801/cmselect/cmenvaud/220/22007.htm
    1 point
  23. Hi Andy, after reading about the sparking brushes as per your link, that got me thinking. I remember the brushes not wearing over the whole profile, just about a millimetre on one edge, and that the profile was not as steep as the old brushes. So, having nothing to lose, carefully filed the profile to match the old ones. Now the machine works as before, and the missus isn't going to leave 😁. Many thanks, much appreciate your help.
    1 point
  24. Someone round here was collecting for Dementia UK so I hope that's a good enough one for you. I bunged them a tenner. Again, thanks Bob
    1 point
  25. Just replaced my D7 diode and it’s back up and running. Thank goodness for Bob putting in the time to diagnose the fault and also take the time to share his knowledge with us all on here. Legend.
    1 point
  26. I have a Bosch Serie 4 machine and have recently been experiencing similar marks especially on my duvet covers which have to be sprayed with pre-wash and put back into the machine on a rinse cycle which thankfully removes the marks. I have been cleaning the rubber around the door seal and lip of the drum every time I use the machine but the marks still appeared. However, today I removed the soap dispenser and the underneath was covered in black mould so I gave the dispenser a good clean with HG mould spray and I even cleaned the inside especially the top where the water enters with a tooth brush to remove all black marks. Ran a clean cycle to remove the HG cleaning product as it contains bleach and then put a white wash on and no black marks so I think it was the black mould in the soap dispenser causing my problem.
    1 point
  27. Fixed it! I found a relay in the pcb with a loose connection - quick solder was all it took (once I'd found the problem)
    1 point
  28. Just wanted to come back and say that worked a treat. Replaced the solenoids and fixed issue. Thanks for the help.
    1 point
  29. bob12241 should be given some kind of knighthood or award or something. 17th December 2020 and his original post is STILL helping fix Beko Washing machines. Mine died. I followed bobs advice and posts. And now my washing machine is working again. I've made an imgr album containing photos from my experience. https://imgur.com/gallery/yMotcyY Bearing in mind that I haven't soldered anything ever, and I was able to fix my machine.
    1 point
  30. Thanks Bob 12241. D7 failed for me on my Beko washer dryer, that was just out of warranty. Replaced diode and all up and running now. Total cost for five diodes and postage £15.00 from Farnell UK. Thanks again Bob 👍
    1 point
  31. This happened to me today in two loads. A pair of white jeans is completely covered in dark grey long streaks that look like grease. After reading all of the above, I think it was due to a full load and the jeans (as well as some towels) being dragged around the crevice of the rubber door seal. There was quite a build up of dark grey gunk, and I grabbed a cloth and also cleaned the clear plastic door build up of lint. It left quite dark marks on the cloth. I'm just hoping prewash stain remover will get the marks out, othewise I guess I'm dying the jeans. Machine: Bosch WVG28420AU 8kg/4.5kg Serie 6 Washer Dryer Combo; Age: about 8 months old.
    1 point
  32. Just to add that I just opened up the back of my EcoBubble and seen the same issue. Motor sitting on the floor, after the two top screws mould holding it onto the machine frame had broken. It had been making loads of noise some time ago but then gone quiet for months until now. Will work out options for repair, just wanted to add my case to the list to confirm what seems to be a common issue.
    1 point
  33. Hello, just updating the thread: Engineer came, replaced the PCB, programmed it and the issue wasn't resolved... He's going to order another part related with the "controls" (he used another word but forgot!). So frustrating, bought a machine I thought would be good, at a higher price, payed for extended warranty from John Lewis and it's been almost a month without being able to wash my clothes 😕 Will let you know what the issue was if it ever gets fixed!
    1 point
  34. Very true I guess, was just hoping some here had already done it. I don't even mind breaking something to get it apart as long as its an easy fix. I'll try and get a screw driver in the tiny gap at the bottom to undo the screws I think and see how I get on. I've not come across something yet that's been totally unserviceable by the end user but this has got me stumped. Thank for the help, hopefully someone may come forward thats done it but in the mean time if I get the screws out and it works ill repost with a how to incase anyone else needs it.
    1 point
  35. Aye if it has carbon brushes it’s easy enough to check them. Other than that it will be tricky to work out what the fault is. Don’t try replacing the motor unless you can be sure it’s faulty.
    1 point
  36. In case anyone's interested, it was the display pcb. I ended up also ordering the rotary switch and replacing that too for good measure, Still half the price of getting a Hoover Candy technician out (even with replacement parts still under warranty) and tell me that the part needs to be ordered in and installed in two weeks.
    1 point
  37. Hi Ajwicks, I have had a quick look on Beko website and the only info I can give is on page 64 section 7 items 1&2. This does mention a problem where a power failure might cause the machine to go into self protection mode and the solution they offer is to press and hold the on/off button for 3 seconds. If that fails it could be either of the 2 main boards, not gonna be cheap. Check all connections in case one has worked loose. Link to manual below https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.net/bekoupload/manuals/WDR7543121.pdf Regards Rob
    1 point
  38. Hi Antony, sounds like your heater filters might be blocked or the fan, as it is maybe overheating due to lack of airflow. When this happens the thermal cutout activates to prevent overheating and potentially a fire. The heaters are normally on the rear of the drum, you will need to check the drying ventilation system through. Regards Rob
    1 point
  39. Hi Guys! I've just bought a nos GEC motor for my WM51 w/m, and it came with a pinout sheet for the various plugs used on these motors, I know its probably too late for the OP, but I'll post a pic of it on here for future reference. btw, the motor was an older model, with a different design tacho, but I'm swapping over the armatures as it's the usual bearing issue. btw(2), the bearing on the commutator end is easy to change with a small 2-arm puller... the one I've got is for removing wiper arms and battery terminals, and works a treat! A replacement bearing is type 6001 zz/c3, 28mm x 12mm x 8mm. I'll post the pic of the connector sheet tomorrow (it's late and it's in the shed)
    1 point
  40. Again many thanks to bob12241! I had this same issue with my Beko 3 years old WDR7543121B with the mother board number G09, the machine didn't turned / power on and after testing D7 that was where the problem was! Saved me quite a few £££'s
    1 point
  41. Just to add to this thread really that the advice given is golden. My Bosch drier also stopped drying. Having taken the top off using the two screws at the back (was very stiff, thought I was breaking a clip or something sliding it back and up), I followed what everyone else has done and also found the impeller really clotted up with rock hard fibres. Not as bad as Chris' but not far off. I spent about half an hour with a small screwdriver going through the small gap you can get with the top member still preventing you from removing the fan, with the hoover sucking out as I went. Reset the jumpers and was confident, especially when I felt it heating up on the test dry. However, the cycle finished and it was all wet and cold still. Checked the over-heat switches and they had tripped again. Reset and started a new cycle to try and see what was happening and the fan obviously wasn't going. So I got the grinder out and chopped away enough of the metal cross member to get the fan out. The plastic housing it rested in was also completely caked in fibres so I cleared all that out (plus clear off the metal insert below the bowl - looks like some sort of temp sensor, which was also fully caked), put it back together, reset the jumpers and tried another test. The fan is now working, I can feel heat more through the glass than through the lid, & it's finished a drying cycle. Looks like the whole surround is prone to clogging. In retrospect I would not have just done the half measure of cleaning through a 1" crack. Even if it had fixed the problem it would definitely be much better to go the extra yard to clean it out properly (either with a grinder or doing it the proper way and removing the upper rear and upper top bars), if only to prolong the time between having to do this. Personally I'm good with having taken a grinder to it, I am resolved to needing to do this periodically and this mod will make it much easier. So, thanks everyone. Have bookmarked this forum.
    1 point
  42. Hi sorry for the late reply/update but I’ve been waiting for parts. I got to the bottom of my problem after I stripped the washing machine down. The spider arm assembly had disintegrated causing the drum to spin off balance I presume. Anyway, I replaced one half of the drum and spider assembly (as you can’t buy them separately for my model) put it back together and it works perfectly other than a small leak from the bottom of the machine. I replaced the tub seal also but did not use silicone to seal it, I suspect that’s why it’s now leaking. So I’m now going to strip the whole lot down again and re-seal the two halves of the tub with silicone, I’ll let you know what happens.
    1 point
  43. Hi you don't need the fluke tester as it not suited (if memory serves)n but the multimeter should do the trick. If it has a diode symbol on it (looks like a triangle with a bar across the top and tails both ends), there are loads of videos on the web that cover it in great detail and it is a simple process. You cannot test it 100% whilst in circuit, you need to desolder 1 leg and lift it clear to test as other components have an affect on your readings. Just Google "Diode Testing" Regards Rob
    1 point
  44. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  45. Hi thanks Andy it has been noisy for a wee while.so probably better off buying new ,this one ows us nothing.
    1 point
  46. Well problem solved after all that it was a 5p obstructing the drain pump hose, as I couldn't get the front cover off to remove all of the pump assembly I only swapped the drain pump motor bit, our repair guy had to partially remove the front face of the washer to remove the pump assembly (most washers I have seen just have screws and your off, this one has a faceplate that can only be removed when the front panel of the washer is partially removed) and as he predicted it was a perfectly sized 5p blocking the pipe..ah well you live and learn
    1 point
  47. Looked at inner drum its slightly forward and rotates off centre compared with the rim of the outer drum probably 10mm out( it looks worse than the measurement suggests, but not any noise and not loose, do they normally rotate pretty much central can they be adjusted? Stripping drum down later
    1 point
  48. No noise has been noticed, checked a new Miele today and the inner drum is slightly behind the outer drum so mine has moved forward slightly
    1 point
  49. Hello. If it is the bearings it should be very noisy on spin? If it isn't noisy and there's no play it shouldn't be the bearings.
    1 point
  50. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them to check) do not sell these rubbers separate from the motor (complete con), they probably come in a box of 500 for about £5. I read on a forum somewhere about someone having Samsung out under the warranty and they replaced them so they must have them as spares. I bought a couple of round rubbers at a local motor factors that were similar in size, fixed them to my drill by putting a bolt through them, then turned the drill on and held it against a belt sender, that sanded them down, keeping them perfectly round. It was a struggle getting them into the holes (used washing up liquid and brute force) Machines been perfect since, and I honestly think I wasted money replacing bearings and spider arm, I suspect the rubber on the motor was the cause all along. I would remove your motor and check the rubbers before doing anything else. Attached a pic showing the rubber in the motor. The red arrows point to one washer going through the motor bracket, when I removed the bolts, instead of the rubber going right through, all I had was what looked like two round washers as the inside had totally turned to dust. So you can look at it without removing the bolts and it looks like the rubbers fine as you still see both sides, it's not until the bolts are removed that you see the middles turned to dust. Hope that's of some use. The spider arm cost me £85 delivered, I got the bearings at a local bearing company for about £7 (instead of the £25+ the washing machine spares companies wanted online) , and I bought a new bearing seal seal for £16 delivered, my thinking being it should now last me many more years. I had to take the plastic drum apart to do this, and while the seal between the two halves looked fine, I also spent about £5 on sealant that I put over the seal to make sure I had a water tight drum. In addition to this I had to buy thread locker for another £7 (got the one in a lipstick kind of dispenser so ave loads left for another use) and had to give my local exhaust place a drink for them removing the nut holding the spider arm on with their air tools as I couldn't budge it So I ended up spending about £135 on parts, plus an annoying £12 on phone calls to Espares (they said it was 5p a min, not sure how it worked out at £12, but I'm not alone in being hacked off at this, wasn't going to phone them to argue). My presumption being that hopefully the machine lasts just as long again. But again I THINK I wasted most of it and all I needed to do was replace the motor rubbers. Note, most, if not all the internet spares companies are the same company under many different names. I phoned three times, once to enquire about the spider arm and once to enquire about the rubber for the motors. . Once I was was cut off wile on hold, hence my 3 calls. I was not impressed to find the calls cost me £12, so I wouldn't recommend phoning them under any circumstance.
    1 point

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