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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    5 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    3 points
  3. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  4. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  5. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  6. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  7. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  8. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  9. Hello there. If the thermal cutout switch had gone the motor would definitely not run at all it's a complete one-shot fuse that cuts power to the motor. If the motor appears to run okay for the very short time that it turns, that is it is not sparking excessively, then a common cause of the motor only turning once or twice and then stopping is either a faulty connection somewhere or a problem with the control module electronics. I would definitely check carefully the motor plug at the end of the wiring harness that plugs into the motor. Try to pull each connector away out of the motor plu
    1 point
  10. Jayj, you have spured me on last night to fix my drying issue..... so I took apart the machine and cleaned out all of the dirt/fluff.... here are some photos..... There are a number of videos to open the top of the machine, but once inside, if you open up the silver box this is were the heating elements are. There are three 30torx screws holding this down, and it is also sealed. You will need some heat resistant silicon sealant (say from Halfords) to reseal. Note that it is hinged on the right hand side. You can see all the dirt/soap scum etc inside mine. To open, undo the three torx and
    1 point
  11. Very interesting - and helping to make this thread a must-read for Miele Washer Dryer owners - even newer ones, since according to my engineer (who was too discreet to admit the stuff you heard) the newer machines use the SAME system... As I mentioned, I never had any issues with my first Indesit washer/dryer 20 odd years ago (fluff filter), nor the subsequent Zanussi (no rinse out fluff option) and they did far more drying. So I think his analysis is spot on. I didn't even realise you could use the Extra Water option with Rinse Out Fluff, but now do it. And yes, I suspect the S
    1 point
  12. Hi, It turned out to have a different name to all other similar parts for other machines- it is called a drain tub G55. Which is why I couldn't find it anywhere. Eventually discovered the washing machine diagrams on AEG's website and found it's true name and ordered one. It split where the clip covers it where it joins the drain pump, so perhaps the clip was a bit tight or the rubber was slightly misshapen. Lesson learned for me to identify correct part name in future!
    1 point
  13. Miele inner drum is rubbing on door seal seems to be getting worse. No play sideways or back to front on inner and outer drum. Inner drum looks to be slightly proud of outer drum. I suspect its still a bearing issue anyone else had this problem?
    1 point
  14. Absolutely made up! Single mum of 2 children and currently doing an apprenticeship, so as you can imagine I was devastated when the washer wouldn’t turn on. I got advice and was told the PCB board would need replacing. i came across this thread, ordered the part, and today followed the steps and within 50 minutes it is back on and working! I can’t thank @bob12241 enough! You are a legend! Xxx
    1 point
  15. Hi Ajwicks, I have had a quick look on Beko website and the only info I can give is on page 64 section 7 items 1&2. This does mention a problem where a power failure might cause the machine to go into self protection mode and the solution they offer is to press and hold the on/off button for 3 seconds. If that fails it could be either of the 2 main boards, not gonna be cheap. Check all connections in case one has worked loose. Link to manual below https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.net/bekoupload/manuals/WDR7543121.pdf Regards Rob
    1 point
  16. Hi Antony, sounds like your heater filters might be blocked or the fan, as it is maybe overheating due to lack of airflow. When this happens the thermal cutout activates to prevent overheating and potentially a fire. The heaters are normally on the rear of the drum, you will need to check the drying ventilation system through. Regards Rob
    1 point
  17. Hi Guys! I've just bought a nos GEC motor for my WM51 w/m, and it came with a pinout sheet for the various plugs used on these motors, I know its probably too late for the OP, but I'll post a pic of it on here for future reference. btw, the motor was an older model, with a different design tacho, but I'm swapping over the armatures as it's the usual bearing issue. btw(2), the bearing on the commutator end is easy to change with a small 2-arm puller... the one I've got is for removing wiper arms and battery terminals, and works a treat! A replacement bearing is type 6001 zz/c3, 28mm x 12mm x
    1 point
  18. Hi, I am new to the forum. But have recently come across same problem. My bosch machine is over 4yrs old, out of warranty, bosch engineer booked to come this Friday for £99 call out charges and extra for fixing. I kept fiddling and accidentally got it working once. And then kept trying again, but didnt work. I persisted, and eventually got it working multiple times. I dnt know how long this is going to last. This is what I am doing, i keep pressing start continuously so that machine locks and starts, usually with in 10 seconds. Dnt press and hold, but press & release, press & release,
    1 point
  19. Mine was the recirculation pump. I changed it on the weekend and the noise has stopped.
    1 point
  20. Useful article, I'm convinced it's something obstructing the ball in the sump hose..just can't get the bugger off .. Local repair guy coming out Sat morning, hopefully he can diagnose or its a new washer After I replaced the double cold inlet a few weeks ago because it wasn't filling up properly I thought I was home and dry..at least for a few weeks until this! Thanks for your help
    1 point
  21. Hi, it should be ok ,apart from its physical size, as that might cause problems.
    1 point
  22. Hi Andy Just updating thread. So I did a full load with my usual Cottons 60C w/ 1200rpm final spin, followed by an 800rpm spin. Both programs completed successfully with no tripping. I've also discovered that the circuit breaker that trips when the machine is in operation isn't actually the circuit breaker responsible for covering the circuit that the machine (and my other kitchen appliances) is on. My electric board isn't labelled and I've never bothered to work out which circuit breaker covers which set of sockets and lights in my home. I decided to work this out manually yesterday
    1 point
  23. Always like your honesty Andy, and reassuring to know that Which? use your services. Now, I always assumed that Miele got hyperbolic ratings because the ex-CEO was being bunged models for free, but now wondering if it was because you are such a Miele fan-boy! ;o) Depressing to hear about Miele economising on certain parts. Given their size, and the fact they have no shareholders, not sure what the excuse would be - they must be making money hand over fist, given lack of significant competitor for their niche customers. Also - and my main gripe - given they continue to waffle on abo
    1 point
  24. Hi Everyone Thanks for all the info, I followed the threads and I also now have a running machine after replacing door latch and connector and triac as described. Cheers
    1 point
  25. Thanks very much kind sir you've given me am idea to diagnose my own problem with a washer dryer.
    1 point
  26. Hi there, would just like to say a big ' Thank You' to bob12241 for his Beko washer/dryer 'Diode' fix, and thanks also to jonboyuk for the extra photos provided and info., the D7 diode fix worked a treat on our model WDR7543121S, sourced the part on a well known auction site in the end to enable a quicker delivery. Thanks again bob12241, your efforts and information have helped to keep washing machine costs for so many people. Kind Regards Tony
    1 point
  27. hi all, I wanted to drop a note to say thanks to the suggestions of the spark. I had exactly the same issue after my caravan tripped, the washing machine was plugged in, switched on (but not being used) and seemed to be the only casualty of the trip! If it wasn't for this thread, and the £5.06 for a pack of 5 replacement D7 parts, I would have been getting a new £2-300 machine. Thank you, D7 is definitely a problem here, Beko take note!
    1 point
  28. Thanks you so much bob12241 !! Beko WDR7543121S which was less than 2 years old exhibited exactly the same symptoms after being left switched off for 3 months in an empty flat during the lockdown. £1.80 replacement D7 diode ordered from ebay duly sorted the problem in just over an hour from start to finish. My son was absolutely astonished when we switched on the power and heard the startup 'beep' !! The savings have been donated the NHS combined charities fund. Regards, Mark
    1 point
  29. We have a washing machine plumbed into (cold water only) a non-mains supply from a low header tank in our flat. An old 1bar minimum machine (Bosch) used to repeatedly time-out on fills. Could be prodded to carry on from where it had left off, but pretty annoying. We eventually (when that broke) replaced that with an AEG which supposedly worked down to 0.5bar and that did seem to be much better behaved. But recently it too started misbehaving. Timeouts on fills, but also the conditioner drawer compartment didn't seem to be getting any water.... instead of dripping through the roof
    1 point
  30. Yes they push all these really big drum capacities but most people would struggle to fill the drum for most washes. If you don't fill the drum with a great big load you can under-load it and are wasting all the economical advantage of having a large drum capacity. If you buy a large capacity drum it should mean you wash half as often or otherwise there's little advantage other than you have the extra capacity for something that wouldn't normally fit in.
    1 point
  31. Hi Joe , I can't offer any real advice other than making sure the diode is soldered in the right way round, The silver band indicates the orientation. The diode is likely to fail if some other fault occurred thus overloading the power supply. Regards Rob
    1 point
  32. Many thanks to all for posting repair details on this site. Just been round to fix my son’s BEKO washer / dryer. 18 months old, only been used for the last 10 months since he moved in and yes Diode D7 dead. £400 machine fixed for £1.80. Cheers. Steve
    1 point
  33. Thank you sooo much for this. Ours broke during the lockdown and thanks to your instructions hubby has managed to take the machine apart ready for the new part to be delivered.
    1 point
  34. hi Andy well, bought aftermarket bearings, this was a difficult job - as the case is solid the drum has to come out of the top, which means everything out then machine on its side to drag drum(very heavy) out on a board. time 8 hrs including fitting bearings. reasemble 5 hrs.start the machine even more noisy. i then took it out again and this time split the inner and outer drum - the spider riveted to the drum was corroded and split on all 3 sides (new machine ordered). over the last 6months i have replaced the door rubber(started to shred), the dampers as the machine was vibrating and finally
    1 point
  35. Thanks - that makes sense. I've ordered a new seal and I'll investigate downstream if the new seal doesn't fix the leak. Very grateful for your advice.
    1 point
  36. After posting I opened my eyes and realized the obvious: there's a metal frame at the top front of the washing machine (behind the control panel) which can be removed with 4 screws! This allowed me to attach the water valve first, then have enough room to (firmly but carefully) push the water distributor forward and attach it to the water valve. Pictures say more than words, so see below. As you can see, I also disconnected the cable from the front control panel (buttons, display etc.) which wasn't easy and could possibly risk damaging the cable/plug. In hindsight I could probably j
    1 point
  37. For reference, the post with my problem and eventual solution is here: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/857052-ise-10-w256w-asko-wm70-1-won-t-turn-on
    1 point
  38. I’ve been very careful with the loading, making sure that the 5kg drying limit (8kg wash) isn’t exceeded and with the drum clean run monthly as per the instructions. Either way it’s now a lot easier to remove the fan assembly now that I’ve cut that ridiculous obstruction off. Whipping the fan out is now a simple 10 minute affair and a worthwhile modification. Will revisit the fan in 6 months or so and post an update on the condition.
    1 point
  39. They actually didn't charge anything.. just a charge to return the board. But officially, they charge £33.49 (through eBay) and then give the following refunds; 1. If No Fault Found following full functional testing, we will refund you 25% 2. If No Fault Found but we don't have a full functional test, we will refund you in full 3. If we are unable to repair, we will refund you in full. 4. If you want it returned, there will be a £3.50 deduction for shipping. I guess I was option 2, although I'm not sure how thoroughly they have been able to test it. I should get it back t
    1 point
  40. Getting back to our wonderful WT2780 - shades of deja vu as yet again I go traipsing around the internet for clues... This thread is particularly interesting, as the guy clearly has techical nouse regarding the drying issue of his Miele model (4 web pages via link) - https://www.fixya.com/support/t1615585-miele_wt945_washer_dryer And here they give photos of the dubious dryer unit itself: https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying What I think I've learned so far is: - the element for the dryer unit sits in a metal box above the drum - I assume ei
    1 point
  41. Hi Andy, and thanks for continuing to keep this site going - very handy Let me see if I can find the research I did on this on my PC.... [10 minutes later] sorry can't find the actual review which mentioned this. However I do remember the details - the customer had the same issue as me (Miele FF conked at 2.5 years) and a decent Miele repair guy had said that they estimated about 1-2% of the FFs came out of the (Liebeherr?) factory with this as a potential inherent defect (something to do with the gas and tubing) and that the main way to recognise a faulty unit was the type of
    1 point
  42. Thanks so much for helping - I found the casing was stuck in place with strong foam sticky tape - hard to get out but with someone tilting the machine back for me it went back so much easier and thankfully the machine has now has power after replacing the diode - so thanks very very much
    1 point
  43. Hi Lesley The whole unit complete with casing comes out, in previous post I said that you have to jiggle it about, passing it down and under some pipes or other obstructions. You may have to cut 1 or 2 cable ties that hold the wiring loom in place in order to get enough slack to remove it. I assume the screws you are talking about are the ones that hold the casing in place, if not you have to remove them first. If you google "main circuit board Beko WDx854130w" and go to images you will see some with and some without the case. Regards Rob
    1 point
  44. Hi. If it's tripping at random on wash, but trips every time on dry then that's strange. If it's tripping at random on wash, and trips at random on drying cycle that is more in line with what would be expected with an intermittent tripping the electrics fault. It seems like it is tripping on both wash and dry cycle so clearly the washing machine is of little use until it is properly repaired. Intermittent tripping can be caused by either leaks running onto electrical parts or chafed wires somewhere that touch something metal during the wash cycle. The latter can be frustratingly intermittent a
    1 point
  45. Hi Jonboyuk I mentioned it's location and how to remove the unit in a previous post on this subject, it is housed in a black enclosure (located at the lower rear RH side) which either unclips or has a few screws to remove the top cover. This applies to the Beko WDX8543130W and not your model, although it is likely similar in construction and different models use a variation to this PCB (not compatible though). I would check the same location if I were you. Please let me know how you go on for future reference. Regards Rob
    1 point
  46. Normally a fault on the washer dryer section does not affect the washing machine. It's possible that whatever is causing the electrics to trip has nothing to do with the dryer and it was just coincidental. This fault needs an insulation test meter to track exactly where the electricity is leaking to earth. Please let us know if you get to the bottom of it.
    1 point
  47. Hey Andy, well like the good sheep I already replaced it to no avail. It wasn't take costly to try compared to getting someone to come and take a look at it. I think there is a good chance it's the pressure chamber, things seem to add up to it. I'll take a look this weekend. Thanks again Andy.
    1 point
  48. Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?
    1 point
  49. Thanks for the reply Andy, that is helpful. I have dismantled the dryer and checked the fan etc. I will carry on with the fault finding and let you know what I find, Terry
    1 point
  50. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    1 point

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