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  1. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  2. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 1 point
    Well, finally got a warranty repair on this (and it might be that the dryer system for the WT2780 is different from older models such as the WT945). Shall post details under a new title, so easier to find for anyone else pulling their hair out.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Thanks. Looks like too many 30 degree washes have killed my machine. I will be more careful with the new one
  13. 1 point
    I will have a good read of it and follow through with all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated!!
  14. 1 point
    Thank you Bob and team! D7 Diode replaced on a 18 month old machine with minimal use in our holiday lodge. Another successful cheap fix here! £1.75 including P&P Much to my husbands surprise and delight. (Although the extra screws, plastic stay and double-sided sticky tape that holds the black box on did flummox him to start with). Beko you must take this problem seriously and get all your WDIR7543101 's with this issue fixed free of charge to keep some loyal customers from leaving you.
  15. 1 point
    Seems to be an issue with hotppint dryers..mine is just under 2 years old..had to have a new belt on recently and now this exact same thing..the sensor strip..it's still screwed in but the other end has just come off..it twisted around the washing ripping some of the clothes attached to it..it was a mangled mess..and pushed on the door that much it popped open from the force of the mangled clothes pushing against it.. I wish I'd kept my old hotpoint dryer and had the fix on it when they were being recalled for fire hazard..my old 1 was 6 years old and not a problem with it..I just feel these new ones aren't built to last!!
  16. 1 point
    Hi again, >>I also checked out six other well-known washing machine brands and they are all exactly the same. Two stars, one star, "<< yeah, think you are right there. If I hadn't been so exhausted reading through every single Miele entry, I had intended to do the same! (Ironically, one of the few companies to get 3+ stars is.. Indesit, i.e. el cheapo) I agree about the reviews being skewed to people who complain (as they are more likely to vent their feelings than satisfied people) - shame the National Appliance Federation or whatever it is called does not mandate an independent email survey of registered customers at the 2 year stage, would be very handy, I do think that Miele should be held to higher standards however - first of all, many of the lousy repairs cited with other manufacturers will have been carried out by third party engineers - unlike Miele, where you are more or less forced to use their guys/gals. If I remember rightly, they justify this along the lines of 'our machines are so advanced, it would not make sense to let possibly untrained engineers repair them'. Yeah, right - if I do have to pay for a repair, I'll be hunting out a competent independent - assuming they can get hold of manuals and parts. Talking of parts, have you checked out the latest prices? Looking at espares, it looks like the following: Washing Machine Drain Pump = £114 Washing Machine Door Hinge = £68 Heater element = Washing Machine Heater Element - 2650W = £104 Washing Machine Outer Door Frame = £207 etc. etc. Could be wrong, but looking quickly over e.g. AEG prices (so, mid-range) they are generally 50% of the price or less. Think you have also pointed this out in past articles. As you probably noticed from the Miele reviews (after weeding out the ones from the ignorant whiners) the story seems to be: The machine failed - we called Miele - they argued the toss about the warranty, if there was one - they then took ages to send their repair guy/gal, often cancelling at the last minute - the first repair often did not work - and often if they did offer to repair out of warranty, the parts cost was so astronomical we were left thinking better to junk and replace. I wish I had access to the cost spreadsheets for Miele but in the absence of those, my (totally uneducated) guess would be this - I can get a nice-enough looking Beko washer-dryer WDA914401W for £422, with a Best Buy rating from the blessed Which?. Now, clearly the Miele has a better outer drum (steel - so lasts far longer and is impervious to objects making holes in it), plus a better external finish (really tough enamel). I would guess that unlike my Miele, the Beko suspension etc. could not deal with just a single pair of jeans (rapidly becoming my number one reason for buying a Miele). Does it have better electronics, which are better protected? From what I have seen, unlikely (and a detailed review on the German site made it clear that the workings of the newer Miele control panels are totally counter-intuitive). But of course the Miele model is, at cheapest, £1700 - i.e. £1278 dearer.... and (total guess) I assume that the steel outer drum and the nice enamel exterior and even the better suspension should only add at max £150 in construction cost. Let's be charitable and say that leaves + £1000 in extra cost price. At £422, if the dryer seizes up etc. after 2 years (remember, our Miele is showing key faults at 8.5 years of very low usage, so really just 2-3 years normal usage), then I have a fairly easy choice - chuck the Beko and replace, or go to Joe/Joanna round the corner and let them do a repair, probably max £150. My gripe about Miele (echoed by others) is that they claim absolute superiority in quality and design, and that darned 'Built for 20 years - but we only guarantee for 2 years' tripe. I do believe their washing machines (in the past at least) qualified for this statement, and also their hoovers and probably their dishwashers too. As for their other appliances - and especially their washer dryers - not so sure.
  17. 1 point
    I guess it was just my way of saying thanks. You saved me about £200, so thanks to you!
  18. 1 point
    They actually didn't charge anything.. just a charge to return the board. But officially, they charge £33.49 (through eBay) and then give the following refunds; 1. If No Fault Found following full functional testing, we will refund you 25% 2. If No Fault Found but we don't have a full functional test, we will refund you in full 3. If we are unable to repair, we will refund you in full. 4. If you want it returned, there will be a £3.50 deduction for shipping. I guess I was option 2, although I'm not sure how thoroughly they have been able to test it. I should get it back tomorrow. Anyway, in the meantime, I Have stripped down the washer dryer for parts on eBay, and have purchased a new machine. :-) Trying a Samsung this time, as it has a 5 year warranty - never had Samsung before, so I hope that's not a mistake.
  19. 1 point
    Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob
  20. 1 point
    Hi Andy, and thanks for continuing to keep this site going - very handy Let me see if I can find the research I did on this on my PC.... [10 minutes later] sorry can't find the actual review which mentioned this. However I do remember the details - the customer had the same issue as me (Miele FF conked at 2.5 years) and a decent Miele repair guy had said that they estimated about 1-2% of the FFs came out of the (Liebeherr?) factory with this as a potential inherent defect (something to do with the gas and tubing) and that the main way to recognise a faulty unit was the type of noise coming from the rear. Personally I always leave 24 hours before switching on any fridge unit after moving, so not due to that! Apologies, I might have been too vague in saying that a 'cracking' noise was a definite indicator - as you say, even the replacement model I was given (and which has worked fine for 7.5 years) makes a cracking sound now and then. Looking back, the noise from the first, faulty model was much louder and sort-of-different. I think the review I noticed was actually left on the Which? website - interestingly Which? took the unilateral decision to stop allowing people to comment on Product Review pages, probably because so many (coherent) reviews were posted contradicting their glowing reviews (including Which? members who pay almost a £10 a month for their sub). Which? had reviewed lots of Miele FFs and given them Best Buy status a few years back - then all of a sudden they seemed to stop reviewing the brand range, which seemed odd. At the moment there are only 1-2 listed. As much as, like you, I love my Miele for its washing performance and solid feel, if you haven't gone over and looked at the Miele Great Britain pages on Trustpilot, worth doing - in between the usual unrealistic ranters there is quite a fascinating thread of customer experiences! (For balance, have to say my fairly basic Miele dishwasher has worked faultlessly for almost 10 years, as has my 15 year old Miele vacuum with powered head). Wonder if Miele allow customer visits to their washing machine factories these days? Always enjoyable to see how things are made.
  21. 1 point
    Normally a fault on the washer dryer section does not affect the washing machine. It's possible that whatever is causing the electrics to trip has nothing to do with the dryer and it was just coincidental. This fault needs an insulation test meter to track exactly where the electricity is leaking to earth. Please let us know if you get to the bottom of it.
  22. 1 point
    Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics
  23. 1 point
    Same mistake here. I got it "semi-easily" out by screwing a large long screw through the rubber in the middle and then pulling out from the screw. The rubber came out with the screw quite easily and then the whole heater came out. Hope it helps.
  24. 1 point
    Not surprising really, a lot of manufacturers use identical boards in different models, Need to let owners of this model Know as well. I went off looking for the source of these boards Yesterday and best I could find was wholesalers in China are selling them, so there we go. Regards Rob
  25. 1 point
    Thanks for the help Andy, much appreciated!
  26. 1 point
    I had the juddering issue giving a 3E error code. To cut a long story short, it was finally fixed by replacing the primary PCB after 5-6 visits from British Gas. (they had practically replaced all components prior to resolving the issue!
  27. 1 point
    Hi, I have a 3 year old washer dryer Beko WDW85140, which suddenly stopped working, no LED light and no display just dead. I contacted the manufacturer Beko for goodwill and asked to send 3 boards. I am an electrician and electrical engineer, but I did not have the time or the desire to deal with the error as to which circuit board was defective. Now Beko accepted my goodwill, but unfortunately today I only got the engine control module. When I was looking for board names on the Internet, I came across your site. Tonight I immediately got the diode from electronics dealer Conrad and soldered it in. Everything works again as if by magic. I wanted to thank @ bob12241 and all contributors :) bye
  28. 1 point
    I kept pressing various buttons just to get the cycle going but it was stuck either on draining the water or just turning and it must have gone on for about two hours before I gave in and turned it off. Selected the fast wash hoping this would cure it but even that went on for over an hour ... I am buying a new washing machine, I think I just about had enough of Hotpoint.
  29. 1 point
    Hi, Firstly, may I say I realise this is a rather old thread. But since I have only just discovered a problem with the little black rubber hose that is connected to waste pipe junction toward top of Beko Washing machine where waste pipe exits washer, perhaps this may help others. Background. Periodically we noticed water on tiled floor during/after washing large loads and occasionally loads were not successfully spun. This occurred earlier today, Water all over floor and a soggy load of washing. However, on this occasion as my wife was discovering this there was a loud crack/bang and electrics tripped out. That's when I get involved. I Isolated power to machine then drained drum from filter housing. Wife found bent hair grip amongst debris. I thought that this may have simply obstructed pump impeller so congratulated myself, (albeit prematurely), that this must have caused failed spin/drain function. But before going any further my wife suggested we drag machine out and clean water from below it. Once that clean up was completed and as machine was already out, I decided to inspect inside back of machine. Only 5 screws to remove inspection plate. Glad I did as I then discovered water splashes all over electric including drive motor and junction/control box cleverly (not) situated low down below waste pipe exit point. Now this is where I also discovered the "small black hose" its about 10mm diameter (externally) and I too thought may be some sort of over flow so rather than leave it hanging above electrics was going to feed it to outside of casing. But when I looked closer I found the widening effect at the loose end of hose also. Closer inspection of the back of the plastic outer drum there is a spigot within reach of the rubber hose. It's my belief that this is where the rubber hose should reside. My theory is that in the event of a waste pipe blockage the waste water can recycle around into the drum and not leak onto electrics etc. Owners will know there is a problem as the washing won't be dry and investigate. In my case I think that pump was operating erratically so sudden gushes of waste water leaked from the open end of the rubber hose and has now I think caused the motor or control of the motor to fail requiring service engineer. Oh I do wish I'd purchased extended warranty. Regards Neil
  30. 1 point
    I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area as this prized apart quite quickly. Once the fascia is away the 10 screws are revealed, and away you go. The facia snapped back on easily It took me about 20 minutes Good Luck AW
  31. 1 point
    Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid for at least 2 inches back and had to be cut away and rewired. Sometimes they would melt so badly that the live and neutral would fuse together and short out the washing machine. I defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only possible cause of these parts overheating is poor quality. And I also defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only reason we have poor quality parts is because the people who are making them do not have customer safety as their primary concern. If I am wrong in the last point, then the only alternative explanation is pure incompetence or lack of quality control.
  32. 1 point
    I think you may have just saved my sanity! I've tried everything, cleaned it the drawer, made sure there were no kinks in the hose, cleaned the filter, tried it on different wash settings. It's been doing this for a year, manual says nothing on it! Thought maybe it was an uneven load warning. It does it on different stages of the cycle so just couldn't work it out. I've just pressed the delay button and voila! No beeping. How did you know how to solve it? And why does this solve it?!
  33. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same issue with a Beko washing machine. Tried cleaning and checking for blockages but nothing. E18 according to many sites is apparently about an uneven wash and the advice was not any good ( turning machine off and on, taking some of the washing out to reduce the load, taking the detergent tray out and back in) and didn’t solve the problem. I read that it might be related to the door (inter)lock and replaced this, which was fairly easy. Closed the door. Turned the machine on and it seemed to finish doing something. Then it was good to go. Problem solved. Hope this helps others.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Hello! And thank you! An update to what I wrote before: that didn't actually solve the problem. The issue was with a faulty door lock which sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. We changed it and now the machine works. The E18 error is still there, though...
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Rob, my machine experience exactly the same problem. Your guide saved me at least £100.
  37. 1 point
    It's to do with water pressure,we had water off other day,done wash today it was beeping,so turned tap a little it has now stopped.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Andy - better get a new one ordered.
  39. 1 point
    Got new set of brushes this morning and put the motor back together this PM... ..... tests complete.... all working again. Thanks for the info Andy, much appreciate the help.
  40. 1 point
    Quick update, seems to have self-resolved after 48 hours. Wondering if there was water on the board.
  41. 1 point
    I can't remember the type of screws fitted, I do remember it wasn't straight forward and had to route through my tools to find the right one. You need to take the back cover off, not the top. The screws might have been what are known as Modulo screws which are normally used in the electrical industry, they are a cross between phillips and slotted screws. They can be undone by using a slotted or Phillips screwdriver that will catch enough to undo. Failing that they could have been Torx screws that appear similar to hex/allen screws but look more like a star, again you can undo by getting a slotted screwdriver in them that engages sufficient. Whichever you choose be sure not to ruin the head otherwise you will have to drill them out. Torx bits and screwdrivers are cheap (get a cheap set from the £ shop or similar), but not so the Modulo screwdrivers as they tend to be vde rated, you can get them from Screwfix.. Regards Rob
  42. 1 point
    This information was a help to me thank you
  43. 1 point
    Hi Andy, thanks again - you were absolutely right! It had just been installed so nearly that there was no gaps or anything, but have found a little handhold for removing it and accessing the pump/filter.
  44. 1 point
    The resoldering of the diode worked perfect! Bought a USB powered soldering iron from Amazon for £6 and it's perfect for soldering electronics, bought a diode for £3, cheap repair, thank you!
  45. 1 point
    Hello. They are all different. The string thing probably just works for the specific type of door it’s demonstrated on. It wouldn’t work for most washing machines. I have an article looking at this fault but it’s just general advice Washing machine door will not open
  46. 1 point
    Yes and no. I drained it and cleaned the pump filter as best I could and lo! it worked. But only once. Then same problem started again and cleaning and draining didn't work a second time. Before that I did have an engineer out who tested lots, including testing the door lock thoroughly and it was completely fine. His conclusion was that the pcb wasn't receiving the message that the door was locked, so it refused to start and unlocked again. He tested bits of the pcb but couldn't see which component was the problem. Andy - I was hoping that it might be possible to just buy new relays or components and solder them on, or at least give that a try. It's such a waste of resources to have to ditch a whole machine which is otherwise perfectly fine for the sake of a few circuitry bits. Yet it doesn't make sense either to spend £300 on a circuit board when I can buy a Miele with warranty for £120 more. This site is a great resource - thank you for all your work running it!!
  47. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  48. 1 point
    I had the same problem. It took the best part of 3 hours to get out. I tried flat knives, flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, it wouldn't budge! What eventually cracked it was picking on the weak point at the hole where the thermostat slots in. I ended up using a serated knife to cut a line through where the thermostat hole is. I was eventually able to lever the end out using a screwdriver. Nightmare. Once it was out the size of the bulge on the inside edge of the rubber showed that thing was never coming out by trying to just tease around the edge. Phew! Don't fancy doing that again for a while!
  49. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  50. 1 point
    Hello Andy, Thanks for your response and it was of great help. I ended up keeping my washing machine Regards, Vinay.
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