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  1. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  3. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  4. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  5. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  6. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  7. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  8. 2 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  9. 1 point
    Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks so much for helping - I found the casing was stuck in place with strong foam sticky tape - hard to get out but with someone tilting the machine back for me it went back so much easier and thankfully the machine has now has power after replacing the diode - so thanks very very much
  11. 1 point
    Hello Barry, it seems the majority of new washing machines have sealed outer drums now. The symptoms you describe are classic drum bearing failure. The brown rust marks at the back are caused by water leaking into the bearings through the drum bearing seal. In my experience Hotpoint have always had rubbish drum bearing seals. Drum bearing failure has always been a very common issue. I would never buy a Whirlpool, Hotpoint or Indesit appliance. To be honest, there are very few of the common brands I would buy.
  12. 1 point
    Hi thanks for reply I put a non conductive spacer in interlock to force contacts together, I did not link terminals on loom The triacs on the board obviously blew when the door interlock failed (major arcing in armature housing) My wife thought slamming door would fix it
  13. 1 point
    hello, Thank you so much for sharing this helpful information, it helped me alot Thanks and regards.:)
  14. 1 point
    Hi Jonboyuk I mentioned it's location and how to remove the unit in a previous post on this subject, it is housed in a black enclosure (located at the lower rear RH side) which either unclips or has a few screws to remove the top cover. This applies to the Beko WDX8543130W and not your model, although it is likely similar in construction and different models use a variation to this PCB (not compatible though). I would check the same location if I were you. Please let me know how you go on for future reference. Regards Rob
  15. 1 point
    Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics
  16. 1 point
    Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back to the repairers showing them the website and giving them the spare diodes. While I was there, they opened up another circuit board they's ordered for a broken BEKO and lo and behold it was the same circuit. They thanked me (even though I have done them out of some business!), but said that they only replace circuit boards so they can guarantee the parts for 12 months. I cannot thank this forum and Bob12241 enough for this very cheap fix. It now gives me a bit more confidence not to throw things away when they are broken, but try and have them fixed at the component level. I just hope more people find this fix and save a whole load of money and BEKO washing machines live a lot longer.
  17. 1 point
    Hi All I have just received a reply from Beko regarding the problem, their reply is as follows:- Dear Mr ******, Thank you for your Email. I was sorry to hear of this issue with your BEKO washer dryer and glad you were able to resolve it in such a cost effective way. Your comments regarding the design of the circuit board have been passed to our technical department to feed back to the factory. Please accept my apologies for the inconvenience this has caused. Kind Regards, Kind Regards, ****** ******** Customer Service advisor My comments regarding the design focused on the failures and also there are no on board fuses, meaning the board could potentially burn up before blowing the main fuse. During my working life all the PCB's I have worked with had close protection by on board fusing. Lets see if anything further materialises. Regards Rob
  18. 1 point
    Hi remove rear cover consisting of about 6 screws this opens most of the rear. The board is inside a black box on the right hand side near the bottom. You will have to jiggle it about to get it through the rear opening. If I remember it correctly I had to lower it down then thread under pipes and stuff also had to cut a couple of cable ties that held the loom to the chassis. Hope that helps. Regards Rob
  19. 1 point
    I had the juddering issue giving a 3E error code. To cut a long story short, it was finally fixed by replacing the primary PCB after 5-6 visits from British Gas. (they had practically replaced all components prior to resolving the issue!
  20. 1 point
    Hi, I have a 3 year old washer dryer Beko WDW85140, which suddenly stopped working, no LED light and no display just dead. I contacted the manufacturer Beko for goodwill and asked to send 3 boards. I am an electrician and electrical engineer, but I did not have the time or the desire to deal with the error as to which circuit board was defective. Now Beko accepted my goodwill, but unfortunately today I only got the engine control module. When I was looking for board names on the Internet, I came across your site. Tonight I immediately got the diode from electronics dealer Conrad and soldered it in. Everything works again as if by magic. I wanted to thank @ bob12241 and all contributors :) bye
  21. 1 point
    I kept pressing various buttons just to get the cycle going but it was stuck either on draining the water or just turning and it must have gone on for about two hours before I gave in and turned it off. Selected the fast wash hoping this would cure it but even that went on for over an hour ... I am buying a new washing machine, I think I just about had enough of Hotpoint.
  22. 1 point
    Hi Karoo1965. This is SA_guy but I dont know the account anymore. That post is so old, not in South Africa anymore. I remember I had to change the whole board, it was around 100 USD. Sorry for not following up with the tech's findings at that time. Happy New Year all
  23. 1 point
    I think you may have just saved my sanity! I've tried everything, cleaned it the drawer, made sure there were no kinks in the hose, cleaned the filter, tried it on different wash settings. It's been doing this for a year, manual says nothing on it! Thought maybe it was an uneven load warning. It does it on different stages of the cycle so just couldn't work it out. I've just pressed the delay button and voila! No beeping. How did you know how to solve it? And why does this solve it?!
  24. 1 point
    That looks as if the inner drum has been catching on the plastic outer drum and gauging through it? Is the inner drum noisy, can you lift it up and down, is it scraping when you turn it?
  25. 1 point
    As a follow up to this I have had an engineer out to my machine. The bearings went and he came and fitted a whole new drum - it is now washing much more quietly and spinning better - but the beeping persisted. In fact it had progressed to a series of 3, 4, 5 or 7 beeps, at various stages in the wash. I rang Hotpoint and asked them what this meant but was told the only answer was to have the engineer back. I was a bit reluctant to do that as it was performing fine - surely someone there must know if they were error codes - but no. Engineer duly came back yesterday, ran the diagnostics and said there is nothing the matter. But it never beeped when new, so surely there was something, especially as the beeps were progressing in number and repetition. As a goodwill gesture he replaced a circuit board in there, and said if it still persisted he would come back and replace the top board. But so far - NO BEEPS!! Success I hope.
  26. 1 point
    It's to do with water pressure,we had water off other day,done wash today it was beeping,so turned tap a little it has now stopped.
  27. 1 point
    Got new set of brushes this morning and put the motor back together this PM... ..... tests complete.... all working again. Thanks for the info Andy, much appreciate the help.
  28. 1 point
    Thanks again Andy. The saddle valve had gradually become obstructed by what seems like corrosion, restricting the flow of water considerably. I've cut it away and replaced it with a proper Pegler washing machine supply valve and all is back to working properly. I will add that the original saddle valve was fitted by the builder who installed the kitchen and he went out of business.
  29. 1 point
    I totally agree with you, my comments regarding misdiagnosis were related to a few instances where I have seen blogs and the front control PCB was replaced instead of the main PSU board as an instance. Obviously they cannot carry a full compliment of spares for all manufacturers and sometimes the symptoms can be similar. I would never give a person advice that put them in danger and if I felt they weren't capable of following instructions I would advise them to seek professional help.
  30. 1 point
    This information was a help to me thank you
  31. 1 point
    Bob, your a star! I've had the exact same problem and after reading your post I soldered in a new diode and hey presto!....it's up and running again. Thank you!
  32. 1 point
    Following up on this - mine did it in April, and then stopped, and has been sporadically doing it the last week. Hubby pressed the delay time button whilst it was doing it, and no more beeping! No idea why that fixed it, but it has.
  33. 1 point
    Update - The issue was solved with a replacement pump! Bizarre that the pump worked mid-cycle but not a full drain! The repair guy said he'd never seen the issue before either. In any case, just pleased it's working and I haven't had to shell out £100s on a new machine! Cheers!
  34. 1 point
    Hi Andy, very old topic I know but did you ever source a quiet pump for your hotpoint? I only ask because I baffled as to why any manufacturer would go to the expense of fitting a lovely quite brushless motor and leave the pump component as was. It would be nice to track one down and fit without to much bother, my machine is so quiet up to the point when it sends any current to the pump then it's eardefender time.
  35. 1 point
    Thankyou Ken Tucky for responding to your own question this sounds much the same problem my daughter has with hers now we can go further with the repair.Thankyou so much
  36. 1 point
    Cotton, Wool, Delicates .. which is your feather .. the triangle sign, is actually a chemical beaker with a thermometer in it .. so SYNTHETICS. Theres a deep water icon, or soak and I'm guessing the sprials of 2 different intensities represent wash strength, ie normal or heavy duty. Also the weird one north of the wool symbol that also says 30 degrees, no clue, cant see clearly enough to guess, but its sort of looks like a cotton but just kind of a scrunched icon to fit in the space. I've never owned one, and am only half German by blood only,
  37. 1 point
    I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I solder it to the board, but I bet it will work as gold. Thank you very much bob, not all heroes wear capes!
  38. 1 point
    So Miele have decided to stop trying to fix my machine. They have refunded the cost of the power Control Unit, which clearly wasn't needed as it didn't soleve the problem, they haven't been charging labour or for the elements as weve gone through so many. They are going to take my machine away and investigate - the person we spoke to is looking for batch issues with the element and they want to test it to find out what went so wrong. On the plus side they have given me 50% off a new machine. Fed up to be spending anything on a new machine but it seems the only way forwards that guarentees being able to wash clothes!
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
  40. 1 point
    Hello Andy. I just came across this old topic. I'd just like to say that yes you were correct. Many of the Hotpoint washing machines do turn the pump off once they have detected that the water has gone. Historically this has never happened before and I still don't really see the sense of it. It just makes it difficult to test the pump if it only runs when water is inside. The last thing you want to do when investigating a faulty pump is to put water in the drum that might not get pumped out. I suppose an argument is that it saves wear and tear on the pump but I'm struggling to think why the manufacturer would be bothered about that when they make so much money selling replacement pumps. :-)
  41. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  42. 1 point
    I had the same issue and took the built in washing machine out of its cabinet tilted it only to find a metal protective plate underneath. So this wasn’t going to get me to the pump quickly. I then removed the front plastic cover and used adjustable pliers to remove the pipe and found amazing amount of debris. Cleaned it all out replaced everything (sliced my hand in the process!) and it all worked like a dream afterwards... thank you amazing forum!
  43. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thanks. No problem. I may contact QER as you suggest. However, if I had a circuit diagram myself I, along with much more electronics savvy friends, might be able to trace the fault more easily. I'm not being stingy, just frugal. I'm on state pension and have to do my best to fix things before I splash out on replacements. I'm guessing it's a power supply issue as it's drawing too much current through that resistor. Maybe a cap, diode or that PWM Switch. Curiously once I cleaned off the soot nothing looked untoward. Even the original blown resistor looked fine. Things can still be wrong even when they look OK, as they are in this case. Still puzzled as to why it all kicked off after I fixed then pump. I really do appreciate the free advice and help. It's not like you are being paid or anything. That replacement board that was only one digit out that I mentioned above - I have noticed that boards have different numbers depending on what year they were made so any thoughts on it?
  44. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  45. 1 point
    Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.
  46. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  47. 1 point
    Hello Andy, Thanks for your response and it was of great help. I ended up keeping my washing machine Regards, Vinay.
  48. 1 point
    Hi, we have this issue with that model of washer/dryer. Do you know which diode this is/do you have a picture? Our washing machine stopped working mid wash and didn't drain. All the plugs, fuses, pipes and filters are fine, but the machine won't turn on. Thinking it's a PCB issue but of you found a diode that isn't working, ours could be the same too. My husband is an electrician so can probably check the diodes. You can email me on lydia.yip@live.co.uk. thanks
  49. 1 point
    Thanks I got one, it's a Beko one, apparently they are the same. It was £20.
  50. 1 point
    I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat

Book washing machine & appliance repairs

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