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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The
    4 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  4. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  5. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  6. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  7. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  8. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  9. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  10. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  11. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  12. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  13. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  14. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  15. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    2 points
  16. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  17. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  18. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  19. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  20. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  21. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  22. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  23. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  24. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  25. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  26. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  27. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  28. about 2 months ago... been working fine since...
    1 point
  29. Hi you don't need the fluke tester as it not suited (if memory serves)n but the multimeter should do the trick. If it has a diode symbol on it (looks like a triangle with a bar across the top and tails both ends), there are loads of videos on the web that cover it in great detail and it is a simple process. You cannot test it 100% whilst in circuit, you need to desolder 1 leg and lift it clear to test as other components have an affect on your readings. Just Google "Diode Testing" Regards Rob
    1 point
  30. Much gratitude to bob12241 and jonboyuk for taking the time to write these instructions. My 4 year old Beko had precisely this problem and replacing the D7 diode with a 'STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying Diode 100V 2A' did the trick! Now I just need to fix the issue with the dryer that cuts out after a minute or two!
    1 point
  31. This guy right here. Thanks a million. Didn't even have to replace the sensor. It was the filter beneath the heating unit. F13 does NOT necessarily mean the sensor is faulty.
    1 point
  32. I had the same exact problem on other siemens model (s 12-44). I have opened the back and found that the on the heating element one wire was disconnected! reattached it and now thanks G-O-D everything works !!!
    1 point
  33. Hi Andy, thanks again - you were absolutely right! It had just been installed so nearly that there was no gaps or anything, but have found a little handhold for removing it and accessing the pump/filter.
    1 point
  34. The resoldering of the diode worked perfect! Bought a USB powered soldering iron from Amazon for £6 and it's perfect for soldering electronics, bought a diode for £3, cheap repair, thank you!
    1 point
  35. Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any
    1 point
  36. When the machine is plugged into mains it performs some check, interesting fact is that the door lock remains locked at all time. When the selection is left on OFF it doesn't go into draining, only when the program selection is made and program either started or not. To be honest I have left the machine draining until it stops itself only couple of times when I acquired it as I'm not sure if it is safe for the pump to be running dry. So I have to try that again to see if it produces any error itself. From what I understood from the manual it only shows the type of error which can be
    1 point
  37. Having come to this same problem years later, and seeing no solution on line, though it was worth a response. They key step here is to open the quarter circle door a little too far, so that the tray is able to lift a little bit at the back clear of the top of the interior then the tray will easily slide forwards (separating from the door). There is a little clip inside, which attaches to a metal rail, this needs to separate before the drawer will slide away. See photos.
    1 point
  38. It's the same for me. Everything is fine except the stuck at the end. When it was operating properly, at the end of the cycle it was a "clank" coming from the door opening and then the "beep" for the end of the cycle. Now, there are 3 "clanks" at the end, like it is trying to open the door 3 times, and it gets stuck.
    1 point
  39. Thanks for the reply Andy. Your explanation makes sense (even if we both agree that finally the restriction is unnecessary).
    1 point
  40. Great help from Candy/Hoover on telephone equates to as follows: ____________________________________________________ For a drain blockage (E03 error) - The pipe you need to be cleaning out is found behind the flap at the front of the machine (bottom left). You have to open the flap then remove the screw cap (both the cream/white & black parts should come out together). Then feel inside the cavity with hand for the draining hole (should be to the right). I cleaned the hole using a hooked coat hanger and it fixed the problem. I'm sure there are proper tools and
    1 point
  41. Plastic can be made stronger than steel so it's definitely possible. As you say it comes down to whether it's cheaper or not. I think the steel is pretty recyclable though.
    1 point
  42. Nobody replied. But it's all sorted. Before you do anything, switch the power off!!! You don't need to remove the selector knob. All you do is 1) ease out the green PCB on the right which contains the display led's for temp and program time etc. You release it by using a small flat head screwdriver to release 4 or 5 plastic clips. 2) Once that PCB is out of the way it gives you access to the white holder into which the on/off button assembly clips. Again use the small screwdriver to ease out the broken item. 3) You don't have to take the selector knob off. I found you can ease the main control
    1 point
  43. thanks andy it was the solenoid valve after all that was the problem . i replace it before so i thought that was not the problem . so i put another one in and worked. maybe it had dirt in it and half work thanks for help
    1 point
  44. Unfortunately Miele are one of the brands that are difficult to get technical information for if you are an independent repairer. It is the same with many appliance brands but especially so with premium high-quality brands like Miele. At the end of the day the situation is that manufacturers who not only build and sell appliances but have a department that repairs them will inevitably see independent engineers as rivals and competition and are therefore commonly reluctant to help them. With Miele there is the added complexity of them being sophisticated premium appliances and Miele believe tha
    1 point
  45. Thanks, I will try and report BWs F
    1 point
  46. Thanks for the suggestions! very helpful
    1 point
  47. Ok thanks for replying, i'll have a read through & hope ive missed something.
    1 point
  48. Washing machine motors are controlled by a board. They have to be. If you take any washing machine motor and put pure uncontrolled voltage into it, it will spin like a jet turbine. I've seen this with the sensor on the motor shaft removed. This sensor reports back to the control board the revs of the shaft, so the power can be adjusted accordingly. It doesn't just give the same set voltage everytime the machine spins or washes, because it simply wouldn't work. A full drum is not going to spin at the same speed as an empty drum unless power can be increased. The motor will be turning at near en
    1 point
  49. Hello and thanks, it's all done by just me The kind of damage you report is pretty common, and usually caused by an object between the tub and the drum. It's usually coins, but all sorts of things get stuck in there including nails and screws. It's possible for the damage to have happened when you used it last and you wouldn't necessarily notice it but when it happened there would have been some unsettling noises, so if you were in the same room and didn't hear anything maybe not. Any damage as described would only happen on spin as the object was tossed around at speed. Therefore no
    1 point
  50. Try putting it on the hottest wash cycle, with detergent inside but no clothes, this should virtually boil the water at around 90 degrees. If you want you could run this a couple of times although give it a rest in between. Keep an eye on it whilst it's running too until you can trust it.
    1 point

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