Jump to content
John Lewis give 2 year guarantee on white goods appliances

 

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/02/12 in all areas

  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
    4 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
    3 points
  4. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  5. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but he was clearly trained in how to push blame for any washer-dryer failure promptly back to the customer: After explaining symptoms (no fault code, but no hot air for dry/steam, horrible white gunge being put onto washing in drum during every other wash) he asked me "and are you aware of the Rinse Out Fluff feature?" Could have been my imagination, but the way it tripped off his tongue meant that he was well used to asking that question and getting a confused 'No?' from the owner (after all, the RoF feature is only mentioned in the middle of the lengthy manual, which probably half the customer base will never bother to read). "Yes", I said tartly, knowing what was going to be coming next. "Right... and have you remembered to use it AFTER EVERY DRYING CYCLE?!" - Again, the rising tone in his voice suggested that many of the poor s*ds who answered "Yes" to the first question might have made the mistake of answering "No" to this second question. I could have wasted a bit of time by reminding him that the language in the Manual regarding the RoF feature was not exactly apocalyptic: "Run the Rinse out fluff programme before the machine is used again so that fluff cannot be deposited on the next load (e.g. fluff from dark garments being deposited on lighter coloured items) or cause a blockage." And this just located on p.45 in the manual. (As we now know, for many Miele Washer/Dryer owners, the RoF feature should really be in red ink, with words along the lines of "Please remember that if you don't use the RoF function immediately after every single use of the drying function, your £2000 machine is likely to break down just after the 2-year warranty expires and cost you upwards of £500 to repair. Your call") After all the hours wasted researching this fault, I decided to be polite but firm "Yes, every time. And I am well aware that this issue is due to a design fault common in Miele Washer-Driers, whereby soap powder congeals along the hot air system and cannot be cleaned out by the end-user, thus leading to issues with the safety thermostat and other parts." What was interesting was that as soon I said this, he did not faff around going off to 'ask his supervisor' or similar, but immediately booked the call. It is possible that he and other customer-facing colleagues know the issue with the washer-dryers, and so when confronted with someone who clearly knows it too, they give up trying to blind customers with science. Anyhow, the repair guy duly arrived and fortunately he was not a dud. He was excellent, very efficient, actually able to work on the machine at the same time as discussing it, and very loyal to the company (probably too loyal - he avoided giving too much away about these dryer issues when asked direct questions). I had been ready for an engineer who simply walked in, reset the thermostat and walked out - but as soon as he stepped through the door he said 'This will take about 2 hours', so I knew that either he was going to do a full dryer system clean out or parts replacement. Turned out to be the latter, i.e. he brought a top element box and fan, and a long plastic oblong duct thing, which I believe connects the heater to the suds container below? Pleased to say that when he took the various panels off, the machine itself inside looked very clean - which of course it should do after we have religiously bought and used all the various over-priced Miele de-lousers, and given the fact that it has probably only had the equivalent of 3-4 years use, if that. The key question - how the supposedly intelligent electronics could not detect that the heater was no longer heating and display an error code - was one he couldn't answer, or maybe preferred not to (I assume the real answer is along the lines of "yeah, I know people pay £2k for these machines, but the design guys don't think it worth putting in another temperature sensor that would pick up on the fact that no hot air is coming out during a drying cycle ..." As someone who generally respects German design, I was still intrigued as to whether this dryer failure issue was just a design flaw in my machine series and older, so asked if the drying system was the same in the new means. "Yes, fortunately!" he answered enthusiastically. This did perplex me a little - I can only assume that most repair guys take the view "sure, the system our machines use gets gunged up and conks even if you do use the RoF feature, but at the end of the day all we need to do is replace these two parts and it is rendered as good as new - and of course Miele customers can afford to pay, otherwise they would not be buying machines that are 2-3 times the price of the competition" A warning to anyone just about to purchase a new Miele washer/dryer I guess. Some might say that I am being a little harsh, but I know exactly how well cared for this machine has been, and how we have always used the RoF feature after every dry - so heaven help a harassed mum/dad with 4 kids and 12 wash/dries a week and no time to read the manual or use all the various Miele machine cleaning products. I'd have more respect for Miele if they took two simple steps - #1, move the Rinse Out Fluff instruction to page 1 of the manual or maybe #2 simply build a Rinse Out Fluff cycle into every drying cycle (you open the door, take the dried clothes out, slam the door, it RoFs and then turns off). While we are at it, maybe #3 - spend a Euro or two on putting another over-heat sensor near the heating element that gets gunged up, so that at least the machine gives a reliable error code - I never got the infamous '55' error displayed, which for all I know meant that the fan stopped working but the element was left getting hotter than a nuclear reaction inside my white box. BTW, out of interest, I downloaded the Manual for their newest, priciest washer-dryer, to see if it had been updated in anway - nope, same wishy-washy text re Rinse Out Fluff, buried deep in the centre. Fingers crossed that when ours goes again, it is in the week before the expiry of the warranty... Thanks to the various people here who contributed info that enabled me to talk knowledgeably to Service Centre and so secure a decent repair first time around. J For google: Miele washer dryer WT2780 WT 2780 drying problems issues cold air no 55 error message debris gunge white grey on clothes Waschtrockner lave-linge sechant
    2 points
  6. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted the inner cover making sure the door latch was under the cover and drilled into retaining lugs with a 2mm diameter drill (not too deep). This is important to stop the lugs from splitting) I fixed the cover with thin wood screws and a washer. Success.
    2 points
  7. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  8. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not enough it didn't register with me that that was the problem I have attached the part that was replaced. It's a part I cleaned from underneath but didn't think the inside was all clogged up. Little did I know. Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Gary
    2 points
  9. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
    2 points
  10. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  11. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
    2 points
  12. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  13. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  14. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
    2 points
  15. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them to check) do not sell these rubbers separate from the motor (complete con), they probably come in a box of 500 for about £5. I read on a forum somewhere about someone having Samsung out under the warranty and they replaced them so they must have them as spares. I bought a couple of round rubbers at a local motor factors that were similar in size, fixed them to my drill by putting a bolt through them, then turned the drill on and held it against a belt sender, that sanded them down, keeping them perfectly round. It was a struggle getting them into the holes (used washing up liquid and brute force) Machines been perfect since, and I honestly think I wasted money replacing bearings and spider arm, I suspect the rubber on the motor was the cause all along. I would remove your motor and check the rubbers before doing anything else. Attached a pic showing the rubber in the motor. The red arrows point to one washer going through the motor bracket, when I removed the bolts, instead of the rubber going right through, all I had was what looked like two round washers as the inside had totally turned to dust. So you can look at it without removing the bolts and it looks like the rubbers fine as you still see both sides, it's not until the bolts are removed that you see the middles turned to dust. Hope that's of some use. The spider arm cost me £85 delivered, I got the bearings at a local bearing company for about £7 (instead of the £25+ the washing machine spares companies wanted online) , and I bought a new bearing seal seal for £16 delivered, my thinking being it should now last me many more years. I had to take the plastic drum apart to do this, and while the seal between the two halves looked fine, I also spent about £5 on sealant that I put over the seal to make sure I had a water tight drum. In addition to this I had to buy thread locker for another £7 (got the one in a lipstick kind of dispenser so ave loads left for another use) and had to give my local exhaust place a drink for them removing the nut holding the spider arm on with their air tools as I couldn't budge it So I ended up spending about £135 on parts, plus an annoying £12 on phone calls to Espares (they said it was 5p a min, not sure how it worked out at £12, but I'm not alone in being hacked off at this, wasn't going to phone them to argue). My presumption being that hopefully the machine lasts just as long again. But again I THINK I wasted most of it and all I needed to do was replace the motor rubbers. Note, most, if not all the internet spares companies are the same company under many different names. I phoned three times, once to enquire about the spider arm and once to enquire about the rubber for the motors. . Once I was was cut off wile on hold, hence my 3 calls. I was not impressed to find the calls cost me £12, so I wouldn't recommend phoning them under any circumstance.
    2 points
  16. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
    2 points
  17. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  18. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  19. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  20. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
    2 points
  21. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  22. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  23. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
    2 points
  24. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  25. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  26. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
    2 points
  27. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  28. Thanks Andy, will have a read of this.
    1 point
  29. Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid for at least 2 inches back and had to be cut away and rewired. Sometimes they would melt so badly that the live and neutral would fuse together and short out the washing machine. I defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only possible cause of these parts overheating is poor quality. And I also defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only reason we have poor quality parts is because the people who are making them do not have customer safety as their primary concern. If I am wrong in the last point, then the only alternative explanation is pure incompetence or lack of quality control.
    1 point
  30. Thanks. Will do on bother counts. I'll report back later...
    1 point
  31. Thankyou for your advice. Will let you know how we get on.
    1 point
  32. Wow. The odds of you finding that are very remote. It's ridiculous that any connector would fit in the wrong place on a pcb. Bad design. Well done for not giving up.
    1 point
  33. Great to know it won’t hurt the pump running dry, coffee machine brass pumps don’t like that at all. I contacted QER this morning, tech who repairs these PCB’s is back at work on Monday so will get to know more then. Happy weekend.
    1 point
  34. Well I guess it's clear what happened here. Don't neglect your hot maintenance washes folks!! Glad I opted to replace the brushes too, compared against the replacement ones you can see they were about two thirds gone in four years - hopefully we'll get another four at least out of it now! Did a boil wash this morning to flush the crud out, all seemed to go OK - thanks all whose advice I found invaluable!
    1 point
  35. Hi Andy, Just thought i'd update you on my progress. Managed to get some help from Dave at the UK Whitegoods forum. Apparently a common failure on Control modules and not just ISE or washing machines for that matter, is the failure of the power converter chip (red arrow in second image). This failure tends to blow the low value resistor that can be found connected in series with the supply to the chip (first image). I am awaiting for parts to arrive and will see if this fixes the problem. In addition I found a video on you tube of an engineer having to replace the same parts on a tumble dryer. I will let you know if this works. Cheers Andy
    1 point
  36. Thanks Andy - My suspicions are the same as yours so looks like I'm going to have to pull the machine apart - well at least swing open the front to access the pump and pipes. The pump filter looks ok so could be elsewhere. What is interesting is when one starts the machine up there is a horrible smell which you can get via the drain hose (via sink plug/outlet) - it's as if there maybe some gunge or something in the hose so will check that too - maybe something floating up and down that too. I have previously repaired it following dryer tripping out and that was the top air duct full of fluff causing it to overheat - eventually got the top off and cleaned and job done so hopefully this is no harder. Thanks again. Peter 3rd October - took the machine apart - access via side after detaching front panel - found the water inlet was barely clear and all the hoses which lead to main drum inlet and then to some kind of plastic cigar like chamber which then goes down to pump (about 12" long 1" x 1/2" wide) was blocked up with hair and muck (probably from dog blankets etc!) - cleaned and re-assembled - job done - took 3 hrs so saved myself around £350 in Miele labour fees
    1 point
  37. off the top of my head as a first guess, and by no means it could necessarily be this , but check the outlet hose. Is it plumbed in a way underneath a sink where water could be flowing from the sink back into the washing machine? - does the outlet of the washing machine go into a standpipe with a u-bend at the bottom? - if it does, you havent pushed the outlet hose of the washing machine too far into the standpipe that its down as far as the u-bend? You say you have checked the inlet filter of the washing machine , have you checked the pump filter at the bottom of the machine as well to see if thats nice and clear and clean from gunk? Run a 90c full wash with no soap powder and no washing in and no fabric conditioner (a cap full of bleach in soap drawer if you like) - could take over 3 hours Hope some of this helps eliminate the smell. I dont know why the wool is coming out dry after a wash, strange that one. - How about put on wool cycle with no garments in and see at what level the water gets up to in the drum, if there is not much water in the drum this could be a problem. If thats the case it could be a faulty water level switch, or a blockage in the pipe leading from the chamber at the bottom of the drum in that pipe that leads to the water level switch (these can get gunged up with soap frequently) although normally that leads to 'overfilling' of the drum
    1 point
  38. Hope this thread is still active. I too have had the same issue but I have found the root cause to be the gaping hole in the drum enclosure underneath the dryer heater(see attached pic) allowing water to be sprayed out and covering the pressure switch and the mains filter and blowing the fuse. This looks to me like it is a design fault.. The heat shield isn't large enough.
    1 point
  39. Hi. It would be difficult to fit such a bulky element near the dispenser. There's little room in modern washing machines for anything new, especially large drum capacity ones. Also for it to instantly heat all water passing through it then it would need to be pretty powerful. Time spent heating up the water isn't an issue. Biological detergents in particular apparently work most effectively when starting in cold water and gently heating up. Also time is an essential component of the wash calculation. Laundry is washed by mechanical action combined with water and detergent. The detergent needs time to work. So introducing water already at the desired temperature wouldn't really save much time. The laundry would still need to agitate the laundry back and forth for a good while to properly get clean. Also, the heater inside the sump hose of the dishwasher isn't fitted there to heat water quicker. It's just there because it's cheaper than the large ones usually fitted in the base of the dishwasher. It works on a dishwasher because all water is constantly recirculated through the sump hose heater and back into the dishwasher. If a similar system was to be used in a washing machine they would have to have a recirculation pump fitted.
    1 point
  40. Wonder if you can help me with a problem on the drying cycle on my Hoover washer dryer WA110. The dryer appears to be functioning correctly in that the drum is turning and the heater and pump are working, but the clothes are coming out hot and damp. The closest way that I can describe it to you is that when you open the door after operating the dryer the effect is like a sauna with steam pouring out of the opening. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
    1 point
  41. thanks andy it was the solenoid valve after all that was the problem . i replace it before so i thought that was not the problem . so i put another one in and worked. maybe it had dirt in it and half work thanks for help
    1 point
  42. When an element fails it usually goes open circuit meaning electricity can't run all the way through it due to an internal break somewhere. Most washing machines can now detect when the heater isn't working and will time out on wash producing an error code. There are some washing machines (Hotpoint and Indesit for example) that can be fooled if the heater goes faulty mid wash and therefore malfunction but without an error code. Doing a service wash can't hurt anything.
    1 point
  43. It sounds unlikely to be a fault on the washing machine. Read all these articles carefully to see if any help - White streaks on laundry after washing Grease marks on clothes after washing Washing not getting clean in washing machine Also check what condition the door seal is in by peeling it back from the drum lip. Is it full of grease, slime and limescale? What wash cycles do you normally use?
    1 point
  44. Don't think it's a mistake, a reviewer commented on how he received just one brush.
    1 point
  45. Andy you and I have spoken a bit recently and I must say that your blog in exceptionally well done. Keep up the good work!
    1 point
  46. The reason I asked, is because I'm out of work, I've had a few quotes, and can't really afford them, but can't afford a new washer either. Thank you for your help, think I might have to give it a try myself
    1 point
  47. Washer help Andy, I am back, you helped me in Feb 2012 with a tripping RCB. This time my washing machine (still working like a spring chicken by the way) stunk, so read your washing machine faults FAQ guide last night, bought some distilled malt vinegar today and hey presto, I have a virtually new and fragrant free washing machine. This will now become my monthly routine - hot wash (90 degree) and bung another pint of vinegar in and let it do its magic. Thanks Morris822
    1 point
  48. Many thanks Gael, for taking the time to write. I have never owned a Zanussi, though I did use a friends when I stayed with her. I now see that its owned by Electrolux, so in some pretty good company. I'll certainly have a look at the brand. thanks again for your advice Gael ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As per my first question, there is already a list of brands & owners on this site. This helps a lot if you are brand or owner conscious. For example, Candy/Hoover also own Kelvinator & Zerowatt (great sounding names eh ?!) though why the good old Hoover got involved with Candy is beyond me. At least I now know a couple of brands that I will avoid at all costs -(please don't ask - too long & exhaustive). Hopefully; With the kind permission of the owner, I copy it here for other readers: CANDY: Candy Hoover Kelvinator Zerowatt ELECTROLUX: AEG Electrolux John Lewis brand Tricity Bendix Zanussi MERLONI: Ariston Cannon Creda English Electric GDA Hotpoint Indesit Merloni New World Philco Thorn
    1 point

Book your Repair

Book washing machine & appliance repairs

Book Repair Now

Buy Your Spare Parts

Buy your appliance spare part

Ransom Spares is a family company with over 1 million white goods appliance spare parts for sale. Next day delivery available, friendly company with over 5000 reviews on Trust Pilot

Price match promise: "If you find the exact same part or accessory elsewhere for cheaper, we’ll not only match it, we’ll beat it!" -



×
×
  • Create New...