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Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/02/12 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 2 points
    Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
  11. 2 points
    Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
  12. 2 points
    Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
  13. 2 points
    Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
  14. 2 points
    I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
  15. 2 points
    Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
  16. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  17. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  18. 2 points
    Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
  19. 2 points
    does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
  20. 2 points
    I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
  21. 2 points
    Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
  22. 1 point
    That's a very sensible attitude, I hate the thought of anyone messing about with things they aren't sure about. As I predicted, of course they will test OK. The fault causing tripping only happens on spin - and only then for a fraction of a second. The fact that when it trips, the washing machine subsequently works perfectly well shows that the cause is not only intermittent but very fleeting. So even after it has tripped the engineer is unlikely to detect anything. This is exactly what would happen if the drum was catching something or a chaffed wire somewhere in the harness is touching something as the drum moves around. It's not the only possibility but definitely the first suspect to investigate. You could say if a washing machine is tripping that the most common causes are the heater and motor - but not that they are the only causes by any stretch. Not necessarily. If it is bouncing side to side it should never touch the back panel. If it is bouncing very violently then you would expect marks or dints in the sides, but it isn't necessarily bouncing that violently. You would hear it thumping if it was. But on spin the drum may still be moving about enough to cause a chafed wire to short out. I've had lots of them, sometimes underneath the washing machine around the motor wiring harness for example. Remember though, I'm not saying it can only be cause by a wire - only that it's the most likely explanation considering the symptoms. Those small testers can't test a wall socket properly. They are useful. I use them myself because they can detect if the live and neutral are the wrong way around, or if there is no earth at all. But they can't tell if the earth it detects is good enough, it could just be one strand of copper or a proper good earth but the tester wouldn't know. Wall sockets are tested by electricians using a proper insulation test meter. Testing it in a different wall socket would only be helpful if it also tripped in the different socket. It would show that it wasn't just the wall socket you normally use. If on the other hand it did not trip in a different socket then that wouldn't prove anything. It often completes cycle without tripping in the normal socket. The fault only ever occurs on exactly the same point of the spin cycle. So I can't imagine how a wall socket could possibly only ever trip at that point. If it only ever tripped on the wash cycle, when the washing machine is drawing the most power, then I could see some sense in suspecting that, but on spin the washing machine is using very little power. It only trips when the drum is ramping up or down from spin with certain loads in. I genuinely can't imagine how a wall socket could cause that. However, I have had cases where the washing machine turned off the switch on a wall socket. It was caused because when the washing machine was pushed back into position the hoses pressed against the socket right at the back of the machine. Then when it went into a spin and the washing machine moved around a little it actually switched the socket off. If by any chance your wall socket is right behind the washing machine make sure the washer and hoses aren't pressing on it. If it has a switch it could potentially be knocking it and theoretically if it half pressed the switch of you could get arcing inside the switch that could trip a sensitive RCD. I would say wiring in walls and sockets can't wear out. It doesn't move, it's not subject to any stresses or strains. But wires connected to wall sockets can become loose if the brass screws they use to wire them in work loose. That's quite common. This would normally cause overheating of the wall socket and the plug during heating when it draws most power. That usually causes burn marks around where the plug plugs in. It would also normally only cause problems on the wash cycle. It is 100% necessary to take off the lid and back panel, and also to inspect underneath the washing machine to properly investigate an intermittent fusing or tripping fault during wind down from spin. There are plenty of wires under the lid you need to inspect. Oh dear. As you know there is definitely a fault, and it only ever happens intermittently and at one specific point then if any engineer does not find a fault how can that mean there is no fault? If they don't find the fault it is only because they haven't the time to test and check it properly. Intermittent faults can be a nightmare, and unfortunately engineers don't have the time to spend on them if the cause doesn't show up straight away. This is why I suggested you try to catch it doing it on video but of course it might take several attempts to do it. If an engineer can't find a fault then there are only two possible explanations, either they haven't been able to find it due to lack of time, lack of experience or just the difficult nature of it - or the customer is completely imagining the whole thing. The latter of course is ludicrous for any engineer to imply. No engineer can say with any certainty that if they can't find a fault then there is nothing wrong. I have an article about that here Repair company want to charge if engineer can’t find fault I can only advise that you only use the washing machine in a different socket and film it every time it comes to the spin section until you film it doing it. You can then say 2 things for certain, that it is not the socket you normally use and there is without doubt a fault that they cannot deny.
  23. 1 point
    I made an account just to say my thanks. Same issues as everyone else here, lights went off suddenly, checked the specified diode, it was indeed faulty. Replaced said diode and everything works again! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
  24. 1 point
    Hi Andy. For me washing machines are just too functional and unreliable, and don't last long enough to justify spending obscene amounts on one
  25. 1 point
    Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.
  26. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I got the same washing machine and exactly the same problem which is not even powering up. Bought diode online and fixed it. Really appreciate every one advises. We are saved and got a lot of washing to do. Thx a lot
  27. 1 point
    Hi Karoo1965. This is SA_guy but I dont know the account anymore. That post is so old, not in South Africa anymore. I remember I had to change the whole board, it was around 100 USD. Sorry for not following up with the tech's findings at that time. Happy New Year all
  28. 1 point
    That's reassuring, thank you very much for the clarification!
  29. 1 point
    Hi, I took off the back panel as you advised and straightened it a bit then I could put it back properly. Hopefully the gap won't reappear, it looks like it won't. Thanks a lot for your very helpful input!
  30. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice,
  31. 1 point
    Yes the main PCB, not the control panel. Exactly when does it produce the error? That may provide a clue. Put it on a 40 degree cottons wash and write down everything it does, and time everything up until the error. For example when the error triggers what exactly was it doing? Was it 10 mins into a wash and turning the drum back and forth, or was it 40 mins in and draining the water away? Could you hear the water heating up?
  32. 1 point
    Hello Tom. A loud grinding noise when the pump is running is usually caused by a small object that has got inside and is being tossed around by the impeller. It is possible for certain objects, (especially if made of plastic) to float about up the sump hose or even partially up the drain hose. This means they are not discovered when looking for obstructions. But when the washing machine is in operation again they get sucked back into the pump. It's also possible that a bearing has failed on the pump. If the washing machine cannot pump out the water fast enough it will usually refuse to spin. It will just click and stop. But it is possible for it to have pumped enough water out to allow a spin, but then cannot cope with the influx of expressed water from the laundry. This would result in the spin being uneven with lots of water being thrown about inside the drum. This could very easily trigger the out of balance system to either abort the spin, or abort the fastest spin.
  33. 1 point
    Thank you! As it isn't my machine and I am certainly not a machine-savvy person, I don't think I would want to try taking the top off. That said, my landlord has been back in touch and she is offering to send around someone to look at it/repair it and I will suggest both of your comment above -- a seal replacement and a look at the hosing between the soap dispenser and drum. I did clean out the soap dispenser, and tried to put some baking soda mixture down the hose, but obviously, with the top still on, the angle didn't guarantee anything. Thanks again!
  34. 1 point
    Hi Steverob10, thanks for the advice - it looks like a blown motherboard - just like yours. What a hassle...
  35. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply Andy. Your explanation makes sense (even if we both agree that finally the restriction is unnecessary).
  36. 1 point
    Thanks. My article is aimed at front loading washing machines. I rarely worked on top loaders as they aren't so common in the UK. However if it's a fully automatic top loader it shouldn't work fundamentally differently. The "no water supply" error would be triggered if water was siphoning out because it would never reach the correct level due to it losing it as it fills. However, to be siphoning the drain hose would need to be too low at some point. If it pushes into a standpipe that's as high as the washer it can't siphon. Unless the end of the drain hose is shoved too far down the standpipe. To test if the water is siphoning out or being pumped out when it next gets stuck filling with water but the water is simultaneously being drained out lift the drain hose out of the standpipe. Lift it so the end it out of the standpipe and any water would still run into the standpipe. If water is running out but stops when you lift it out - it's siphoning. If water continues to run out it must be pumping it out. If by any chance the drain hose is not pushed into a standpipe and is fixed to a pipe I would try to disconnect it from the pipe and hold it over the sink.
  37. 1 point
    Hi, the only reason is to save money on screws, and presumably it makes assembling on the production line easier and quicker. It might not sound much, but if you can save on the cost of about 20 large screws on every washing machine you can save a significant cost when you make millions a year. The only other possible "advantage" is that they don't have to store and stock any of the parts inside the outer drum as spare parts because you only sell the whole thing. I would imagine that saves manufactures much more money than the savings in screws. There's no advantage to customers unless by any chance some of these savings are passed on to us in lower purchase costs. However, even if they are the savings are in my opinion far outweighed by the drastic lack of repairability and shorter life many of them will have.
  38. 1 point
    The washing machine's been working great ever since I changed the pump! Thanks for your suggestions and comments which saved me a bundle to do myself
  39. 1 point
    It may due to debris in the waste hose that feeds into the u-bend in the kitchen sink. There seems to be some extraneous matter in this hose that I've now fully removed. I'm just trying a rinse/spin cycle now to see if it works or not.
  40. 1 point
    Many thanks for your reply. I had read something about a pump that circulates water through 'some' of the cycles and not others - which seems to tie with the randomness of the noise. Either that or like you say an obstruction somewhere. Listening to the noise again it appears that the noise is coming from the bottom of the machine on the right hand side near the front. I've opened the door and spun the drum by hand, and I can't hear any strange noises at all. There's a little movement in the drum but it seems ok. Thanks again, will let you know how it goes )
  41. 1 point
    Hi Neil, if the drum isn't turning it could be the carbon brushes worn out (carbon brushes diagnostics) but that's an old machine to keep going. Definitely don;t attempt to replace the timer or pcb, way too expensive a gamble and they are probably obsolete anyway.
  42. 1 point
    Thank you. You were 100% correct it was the front tub weight. All sorted Thank you so much for you help
  43. 1 point
    On some washing machines other faults can cause the whole machine to stop working such as an open circuit motor including carbon brush faults. If you can't see any carbon brush faults it'd be better to get someone in. http://www.whitegoodshelp.co.uk/washing-machine-wont-start/
  44. 1 point
    looks like it just pokes into 2 holes in the outer drum. Not sure how you would get it back with the drum installed? will be a tight one.
  45. 1 point
    Many thanks, Andy. I have ordered the beko stopper as you recommended it. I'll let you know how it goes once i receive it. Many thanks again for your help.
  46. 1 point
    Problem solved - it was nothing to do with the suspension! I replaced the 3 spring / damper units and the 2 other dampers on the suspension, and it made no difference. The drum still leans back, and it continued to sound as if is hitting the outer drum whenever it moves. HOWEVER. last week the drum stopped spinning all together. The motor sounded if it was trying to run but the drum did not move. I removed the rotor from the direct drive motor (2 minute job once back of case off) and found the rotor engages on the drum spindle with PLASTIC teeth which had stripped. Thus the rotor was rotating, but the drum was not. Ordered a new rotor (£28 from Partmaster) and I note the new one has metal rather than plastic teeth - so hopefully it will not fail in the same way. Having installed the new rotor the banging noise has gone, so I now assume the banging was from the drum slipping on the rotor as it was gradually wearing out and had nothing to do with the suspension! The correct treatment was easy once the diagnosis was obvious...
  47. 1 point
    Nice article. I have decided to return it and get a Siemens with 1400rpm for the same price. The Panasonic has 1200rpm.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Hey, I thought i would post my out come to help others. Having spent all day today taking my machine apart it is quite clear my problem was leaking bearings, letting by black grease which is finding its way in to the wash. The spare parts seem to be out £40 but given the age and fiddillyness of putting it all back together and no gaurentee of it not leaking i have decided to get a new one. Thanks Andy Washerhelp - a great site! Spoon Washer :-)
  50. 1 point
    Hi there I just got a brand new Beko WMB81241LW Washing machine from Currys, a pretty good washing machine for the price seems well made (except for the soap drawer feels a little cheap and nasty when pulling out) and has lots of features. The only gripe I have noticed so far is that an awful lot of water seems to collect at the bottom of the grey door rubber gasket after every wash and the instructions tell you to wipe the door gasket after every wash. However in spinning I think i see that the water splashes up from the bootom of the door gasket and all around the door when spinning and doesnt drain away. Are there any tips/modifications anyone can think of how to get the pool of water to drain back into the drum so then can be pumped out? - I see the manufacturers have put 3 small holes in the gasket presumably to aleviate this problem but they may as well have not bothered putting them there because the water still wells up there, I have checked and the holes are clear of any obstructions so the water should be draining and I cannot see why it doesnt. On another note, I remember years ago a hotpoint engineer telling me they remove the ping-pong eco ball from the sump hose when replacing water pump or hose because the cand get stuck and cause no end of problems and i did that with our hotpoint years ago and left it without the eco ball in it and it worked fine - so I have done the same with this Beko and took the eco ball out of the sump, do you reckon that should be OK doing that on this Beko machine? shouldnt cause any problems should it? - if it does I can easily put it back n there again. Thanks for any help or advice or tips on these matters that I have raised. Andy.

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