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  1. 2 points
    Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
  2. 2 points
    Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
  3. 2 points
    Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
  5. 2 points
    I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
  6. 2 points
    Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
  7. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  8. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  9. 2 points
    Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
  10. 2 points
    does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
  11. 2 points
    I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
  12. 2 points
    Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
  13. 1 point
    I just wanted to say a sincere thanks to HCF for this very useful advice. It's the only useful thing on the internet about this bloody drawer! Finally got it open thanks to this and cleaned out a horrible amount of gunk. Service wash now happily working away.
  14. 1 point
    The washing machine has been running sweet since the block was screwed back on.
  15. 1 point
    Wow. That sounds just like a donkey. It sounds like the drum is catching on the door seal where the two meet in front of the drum? Can you see if it is or not? Check all around the door seal in front of the drum.
  16. 1 point
    Thank you so much - I have tried brute force - pliers, screwdriver, knife lol and it still won't budge, which is how I broke it in the first place I will try taking off the back panel and see how I go - thank you for your help
  17. 1 point
    Yes the main PCB, not the control panel. Exactly when does it produce the error? That may provide a clue. Put it on a 40 degree cottons wash and write down everything it does, and time everything up until the error. For example when the error triggers what exactly was it doing? Was it 10 mins into a wash and turning the drum back and forth, or was it 40 mins in and draining the water away? Could you hear the water heating up?
  18. 1 point
    Hello Tom. A loud grinding noise when the pump is running is usually caused by a small object that has got inside and is being tossed around by the impeller. It is possible for certain objects, (especially if made of plastic) to float about up the sump hose or even partially up the drain hose. This means they are not discovered when looking for obstructions. But when the washing machine is in operation again they get sucked back into the pump. It's also possible that a bearing has failed on the pump. If the washing machine cannot pump out the water fast enough it will usually refuse to spin. It will just click and stop. But it is possible for it to have pumped enough water out to allow a spin, but then cannot cope with the influx of expressed water from the laundry. This would result in the spin being uneven with lots of water being thrown about inside the drum. This could very easily trigger the out of balance system to either abort the spin, or abort the fastest spin.
  19. 1 point
    The engineer is booked for Friday so I'll update you on what it was when fixed.
  20. 1 point
    At the end of any cycle, even several minutes after the End display comes on, the door will not open (door open light does not come on). To open it I have to switch off then on again. I have just realised that probably I had the Easy Care button selected, which stops it opening until cancelled! I didn't know what this button/light meant until I looked it up.
  21. 1 point
    Hi William, yes, sounds annoying - definately sounds like condensation (thats silly if they said if it was an installation problem, how on earth would condensation dripping from the soap drawer be anything to do with installation) - most soap drawers on most machines will have soap drawers designed to let steam escape from the drum ... and soap suds. - If you put wrong washing powder or liquid in the drum and it over suds, you just watch the suds come out of the soap dispenser area and the hole where your hand goes into where you open the dispenser drawer with your fingers. How warm is the room with the washing machine in? - is it in a cold room, or a cold utility room or garage or cold kitchen? that could be causing more condensation than necessary coming out of the drawer than normal as the steam comes up through the soap drawer and hit the cold air in the room maybe. In the normal lifetime of the washing machine you are going to be washing at much lower temperatures than 90c ... your going to be doing washes of 30c/40c and at most 60c .. do you have the same issue when the washing machine is doing those wash temperatures? - only you shouldnt be having a load of condensation and wet steam coming out of the dispenser drawer at those temp's really (assuming the room it is in is around room temperature of 19-21c and not cold) otherwise yes the steam could settle on the wood of the worktop , make it wet and it will rot after a while. If you find a lot of condensation when this new machine is on, you know the room you have it in does it have a window, or a wall fan nearby the machine? - maybe you could open up the window or install a wall extractor fan and turn that on to cut down the condensation in the room where the washing machine is operating?
  22. 1 point
    Thank you for your help and just an update , hubby changed brushes and all seems to fine now, looks like it was a case of more than one problem, hopefully get a few more years out of it yet .
  23. 1 point
    I just replaced the shocks on my 12 (or more) Meile W865. The old ones were completely shot and the drum bouncing all over the place. It was pretty straight forward but a socker set with extensions was useful. After replacement I pushed down on the drum and it barely moved. They should have been replaced long ago. Perhaps more modern machines tell you when to replace them, say after X number of cycles. I would certainly reccomend testing your own machine and replacing them if needed.
  24. 1 point
    It sounds like it could have a relatively small leak. There is probably a cover on the base of the machine and a float mechanism installed to detect leaks. Therefore if a leak is within certain limits it can trigger the waterproof fault without necessarily showing any water coming out underneath. A certain amount of water can be contained inside the base plate. If a leak was bad enough it would of course run out underneath the front or the side of the washing machine. If there is a proper back panel then disconnecting the washing machine from the mains and taking off the back panel should allow access to see if there are any signs of a leak. Finding a leak can be tricky without experience depending on where the leak is coming from. This article gives some general advice but at the end of the day it's a question of using detective work and logic to find it 5 essential repair tips when faced with a washing machine leaking - do not try to observe the leak with the washing machine plugged in.
  25. 1 point
    Ok, an update. I wasn't able to unblock it with my dads pipe cleaner, so I had to take the back & top cover off & unclip the control panel. Then I was able to unclip the 2 fill hoses & the 2(?) drain hoses. The main drain hose underneath the soap draw was blocked solid near the top! God knows how as it's over 1" diameter! Btw this rubber drain hose has a U-bend in it, so I wouldn't have got far with the pipe cleaner, that said the blockage was in the straight part leading to it. Anyway I pulled the drain hose out from the drum casing & emptied it out into the sink. Beneath the blockage a load of bone dry washing powder fell out! How the hell could it have got there? And the blockage turned out to be a large plug of solidified washing powder! (looked new) Again, how??? I noticed in the soap draw that the powder from the aborted wash (which had got partially wet) had partially solidified too, I had to break it up to get it out. The powder is nothing unusual, it's just Daz Whites & Colours. So I assume that would happen with any washing powder? So although I have got my washing machine going again (thank god! lol), I am mystified as to how & why dry washing powder got into the drain hose along with just enough water to dampen it but not flush it through (I assume). I'm worried that this could happen again. Can anyone tell me how this could have happened? Cheers Mark
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Andy, that is I expected but of course not what I wanted to hear. Very happy to buy it from 4Washerhelp if you have it!! It sounds like I should look at other washers (or washer driers?) from LG of about the same vintage and see if any of the seals look about the right dimensions as most likely that was what was substituted. Surely bearings are standard parts used for a variety of machines not just domestic appliances. If they are the right inner and outer diameter and thickness would they work?
  27. 1 point
    It took me a while to get round to fixing this but I bought a new pump / housing unit, replaced this and is now quiet! Thanks for your help & advice :-)
  28. 1 point
    Cheers Andy. I have one, how do I slect spin only.
  29. 1 point
    These answers are fantastic! It's exactly what I was looking for! I've been having a look around and I found this washing machine that's not badly priced at under £200. It's nothing fancy, but what do you think? https://www.buyhomeappliance.co.uk/indesit-innex-xwsc61251w-washing-machine-white From what I've seen, Indesit seem to do a good range at a range of prices, so I can still get a good one but rather cheaply! I think that for a first one, I'm not looking for an overly complicated gadgety one, only one that I can just put the washload in, press a button or two and BAM, it starts working, nothing overly complicated!
  30. 1 point
    Yep, I agree. Save a lot of hassle just buying a new board. (Siemens 5WK51307)
  31. 1 point
    Of course, insulation tests were done right at the beginning, and there are no problems with the motor. I originally thought that the front panel PCB was only there to decode the button and knob settings, and light the leds via serial communication with the main power board. But I have now dismantled the front panel and found that the PCB contains a full-function 16bit microcontroller (MCU) with a large ROM which must hold all the washing programs. It has an I2C interface with the power module, so sensor and diagnostic information must be sent to the front panel from there, and it is the MCU on the front panel PCB which then tells the power module how to control the various components like motors and heaters. I could kick myself for not dismantling the front panel sooner. It is now clear that commands are getting from the front panel to the power module to do things like operate the pump and water valve, but it is not receiving anything back from the power module. That is why I did not get any error codes via the leds, and why it would try to do things like fill the drum briefly 3 times and then shut down. If I can't find which component has failed on the front panel, I will have to replace it, but I don't think it is the MCU because it is responding to buttons, and controlling the leds locally in the correct way. This information may be of interest to others that have experienced similar confusing malfunctions. My advice, if everything physical (motors, heaters, sensors) seems to check out OK, to suspect (replace?) the front-panel unit first, before going to the difficult and expensive job of replacing the Power Module.
  32. 1 point
    On the larger capacity drum they may have decided they could shorten them without loss of function. As long as the paddles lift the laundry and move it about they could be shorter. I remember when the drum paddles were incorporated into the drum and made of stainless steel. They never needed replacing. It must be cheaper to make them from plastic otherwise they wouldn't do it. Having said that since they started to require them to scoop up water and sprinkle it on to the laundry they've varied a lot in shape, which would presumably be a lot easier to make in plastic.
  33. 1 point
    Hello there. If the drum is rumbling on the slow wash action it should be extremely noisy on spin. Unless the motor itself was extremely noisy it should be worse on spin than it is on wash. Therefore I would initially be suspicious that it wasn't the drum bearings. When you turn the drum by hand, or when the drum itself is turning there are 3 things in play. There is the drum and its bearings, the motor, and the drive belt. Either 3 could be causing the noise. Therefore when suspecting drum bearings the first thing you need to do is to disconnect the drive belt and make sure it is not going to catch on the drum pulley. Then go to the front of the machine open the door and spin the drum by hand. If the noise is present this proves it is caused by something in the drum or the drum bearings. If you don't disconnect the belt you are always spinning the motor the drum and the belt. Believe it or not I once spun the drum by hand and it felt and sounded 100% like the drum bearings. I quoted the customer for the drum bearings but when I started to repair the washing machine I realised that the horrible rumbling noise was coming from the motor bearings. I also even once went out to finish a job that another engineer had ordered parts for. He had also spun the drum by hand and diagnosed drum bearings. He'd ordered up a complete drum assembly and I was later sent to fit it. As soon as I took the back panel off I could see that the drive belt was very badly damaged. The rumbling noise that had caused the other engineer to believe it was drum bearings was caused by that drive belt. Having said all that if it is the drum bearings then it is unusual for it not to be rumbling louder on spin. It will of course eventually reach that stage. Unfortunately many if not most modern washing machines have sealed outer drums. If yours has one then it would be extremely expensive to fit a new outer drum complete with the inner drum and bearings. Regarding the £200 for having a pump replaced. That is a hell of a lot of money for just replacing a pump. It's no wonder people aren't having repairs done these days. Sadly the average lifespan of the modern washing machine is only quoted at 7 years at the moment. However, that is an average so many should last 10 years or more. The washing machine should work fine for potentially many more months until it eventually became extremely noisy. It wouldn't be wise to run one until it virtually collapsed but they can often rumble on for quite a long time. Apart from anything you wouldn't want to wait for it to suddenly randomly collapse at potentially an extremely inconvenient time. Once drum bearings became remarkably noisy it is time to replace it. The only thing that could possibly slow down the ultimate demise would be using it less (washing proper full loads instead of small ones) and reducing the final spin speed. Regarding your last question this article may help a little although it is mostly aimed at someone who is trying to decide whether to buy a separate tumble dryer or a washer dryer combined
  34. 1 point
    Maybe not from the machine manufacturers but they don't make all the components on there pcb's, Triacs, resistors, diodes, capacitors etc are readily available, all you need is the part number or know what spec you require. Most of the components on this board are manufactured by a company called st microelectronics, they make triacs with part numbers beginning with acs, so Ive ordered one, not sure if it will fix the problem but for £2 inc postage compared to the price of a new pcb it's definitely worth a shot, it should arrive tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes.
  35. 1 point
    A leak could be coming from dozens of places. It's a question of observing where the leak is coming from. Here's a general guide Washing machine leaking
  36. 1 point
    Hi thanks for your reply there. there is no black mould on the door, I don't think it's actually.mould on the clothes it's more like black spots, maybe debris or rust?? my old machine started doing this so I've replaced it and really confused as my new machine is doing it now too.... Can't think what it could be.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Thx for the replies guys, I've been too busy to actually look into it. Will come back to it when I have more free time. For now it will just have to do as it is.
  39. 1 point
    Appreciate your reply thank you. Width shouldn't be an issue really, it's the depth that seems to be giving me issues. Unfortunately our appliances are Baumatic - not the best, and have now ceased trading. Can get other Baumatic machines but these are bigger. If my granit tops have been made smaller then I will be well racked-off. I fear we will have the same issues with cooker and built- in microwave I will look to post a photo if this is feasable, and just continue to hunt for a machine that is 53cm deep. Great site by the way!
  40. 1 point
    Hi Neil, if the drum isn't turning it could be the carbon brushes worn out (carbon brushes diagnostics) but that's an old machine to keep going. Definitely don;t attempt to replace the timer or pcb, way too expensive a gamble and they are probably obsolete anyway.
  41. 1 point
    An update......Plast Aid still holding strong....No leaks, 7 months on Recommended 100%
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for all your help. At the moment, the motor is more or less doing it's job. You are right, it would be possible to insert brushes with the worn side facing out, but that is not case (I wonder whether that would work, because then the cable in the brushes would be far closer to the armature, possibly at the end of the opening in the brush holder). Sure, this would plausibly lead to the noise, but then on both brushes, not on only one, and ratcheting would be in both directions of turn. And I have repeatedly removed, interchanged, re-inserted, double-checked, cleaned, ever so slightly lubricated the exterior of those brushes... Anyway, whatever it is, the noise is calming down a little. At moment I don't have to spare time to remove the motor again to check my "spring is not moving freely" theory. Pushing the spring outward with a screwdriver supports this theory, (spring does touch the inner wall of the brush housing with its far end, so possibly contact may become stronger or weaker, depending on the angle of bend) but as long as the motor is in I can only feeld this, but cannot see it. Another possible explanation would be that the brushes might me slightly too thin, thus having too much space for movement. But they are genuine Hoover parts, from the central Hoover parts dealer in Munich. The connector seems okay, I also treated all contact material with a contacts cleaner. The contacts have not moved down.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks - that is most helpful. We are going down next week so will be able to check what you have suggested. My french is OK but I don't think I could explain the problem in french over the 'phone to a repair man!
  44. 1 point
    Thank you for a very informative reply, we will take on board your advice and see if some of it in use will remedy the situation. Regards.
  45. 1 point
    Washing machine motors are controlled by a board. They have to be. If you take any washing machine motor and put pure uncontrolled voltage into it, it will spin like a jet turbine. I've seen this with the sensor on the motor shaft removed. This sensor reports back to the control board the revs of the shaft, so the power can be adjusted accordingly. It doesn't just give the same set voltage everytime the machine spins or washes, because it simply wouldn't work. A full drum is not going to spin at the same speed as an empty drum unless power can be increased. The motor will be turning at near enough the same speed as the old one but obviously the pulley wheel sizes will influence the overal drum rotation speed because they are essentially gears. So, if you put a motor rated at 2000 rpm spin (just as an a silly example) into your machine, the spin speed will be reduced to 1200 by the board because the revs are monitored and controlled from there. Taking it the pulley sizes are the same of course.
  46. 1 point
    Many thanks for that. I did some measuring of the motor/drum pulleys and scribbled a few numbers down on a piece of paper....but halfway through I forgot exactly what I was trying to work out (I managed to prove that a 1400 spin speed machine spins at....1400 rpm). And then it occured to me that it would be far easier just to turn the blooming machines on and count the revolutions of the drums during a wash. So, with the aid of a torch and a stopwatch I found out that I'd been fooled...and that the 1400 Exxcel washes (30 degree cycle) at 54 rpm while the 1200 does so at 46 rpm. There's some slight difference in the diameter of the drums (15 1/2" on the 1400, 15" on the 1200), but by this time I'd figured that the difference wasn't worth worrying about and that my pants won't get mullered in the wash. What the final spin speed of the 1200 is now is anybody's guess - but having read the article about spin speeds I'm none too bothered. Cheers, Steve
  47. 1 point
    I was thinking of all the modern machines JetSystem, with their quick washes designed for lightly soiled or freshening up only, which many people take for alternative programmes to normal ones but quicker. The old ones used to use much more water but even they only had quick washes intended for lightly soiled. A proper quick wash programme needs to wash with proper wash action as you say, and use proper amounts of water but even then with modern detergents designed for slow washes I wouldn't expect proper good wash quality results unless relatively lightly soiled laundry. I've said for years that what we need is washing machines capable of washing in proper eco mode but also capable of washing in thorough but quick mode so that people can choose what's most important to them.
  48. 1 point
    I think what I'll do is as you said, I'll switch to using separate washing powder and softener and see if that helps. I was looking at the Which website and they recommended Aldi's Almat as the best closely followed by Ariel with Actilift, so I'll buy one of those and some softener. I've checked the pump filter and it seemed fine and had no blockage and I've just put the washer on twice without any clothes in to flush out any remaining detergent so I'll see if that makes any difference on my next proper wash.
  49. 1 point
    Not using enough detergent can cause it too, but if it only happens at the end of rinses I would try using normal good quality detergent and proper good quality fabric conditioner. Proper fabric conditioner actually suppresses soap suds and is described in my article as a way of getting rid of suds if you have them foaming out of the machine. Also you need to make sure the pump filter is clear and there's no partial blockage in the plumbing where the washer pumps out into as partial blockages and obstructions can cause the washer not to rinse properly.
  50. 1 point
    I agree. I read somewhere that because the PCB controls the sensors it could actually be the PCB that's at fault but as we've had an engineer fit a brand new one and the fact that the machine washes fine then it's likely to be this part thats faulty. I'm going to fit this myself as the board was nearly £200 fitted! I'll keep you posted
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