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Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/02/12 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 2 points
    Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
  11. 2 points
    Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
  12. 2 points
    Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
  13. 2 points
    Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
  14. 2 points
    I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
  15. 2 points
    Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
  16. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  17. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  18. 2 points
    Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
  19. 2 points
    does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
  20. 2 points
    I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
  21. 2 points
    Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
  22. 1 point
    And I also need to correct the guesswork in the latter part of this thread - at some point, after looking at another's user olde Miele, it appeared to be the case that the heater fan in his model was located in the bottom of the washer/dryer. Mistake - in the case of the WT2780 the heater fan is definitely on the top of the machine, though a duct connects this fan to something at the bottom of the machine, but not sure what....
  23. 1 point
    I will have a good read of it and follow through with all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated!!
  24. 1 point
    >>Ha ha that's a bit unfair I couldn't have been more balanced<< :o) - sorry, for a minute there I could imagine the kind of excuses my Miele 'engineer' might come out with - am sure that if Miele took you on as a 'change management consultant' you could whip them into shape in 3 months, Andy! (Interestingly, I looked at the GlassDoor employee comment site, and it sounds like the company might be in a bit of an upheaval at the moment strategy-wise, lots of outsourcing mentioned at the German end.) >>Have you seen that the tubing from the fan right up to the heating element chamber have accumulated debris? I would have guessed that it would only accumulate in the metal heating element chamber.<< I daren't take the top off the darn thing at the moment, in case the engineers shrieks "Guarantee violation! Guarantee violation!" at me. However one really doughty owner has posted the following, which suggest that the issue is as you say i.e. with the fan box and the element, but not necessarily with the endless tubing connecting the two (he is talking about the wt945 model, but I assume the WT2780 might have the same arrangement): https://www.fixya.com/support/t15664744-no_heat_when_drying https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177912-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_stage https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177920-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_1_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177928-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_2_fix https://www.fixya.com/support/r4177934-miele_wt945_dryer_problems_stage_3_4_fix This is the key info, relating to the difficult-to-reach fan box at the bottom of the machine: "The next stage is to attempt a cleanout of the fan box itself. Fortunately you can get to some of what is needed without dismounting the whole box (if you want to bite the bullet on this straight away, go to Stage 3). Dismount the heater by undoing the two large bolts at the front holding it to the drum, and two Torx bolts at the rear. Although the heater is still attached to the flexible rubber outlet at the front, it will swing up and off to one side just enough to reveal an upward-facing hole at the rear – this is the air outlet from the fan box. Peer down into this hole and you will be astonished at the buildup of mummified fluff and goo – it’s similar to papier mache. Draw up a comfortable chair, fix up a desk lamp to shine down the hole, and start unpicking the goo with a fine metal hook (a dentist-style hooked probe is ideal – Maplin do a good set). First clean out the hole, then probe deeper to clean out each fan blade. It’s fiddly and quite a long reach down the hole, but by no means impossible. Turn the motor manually to move on to the next blade, and every so often vacuum out the hole with a small nozzle to remove the pile of dislodged goo. Unfortunately the goo is too adherent to come out with the vacuum alone, without unpicking first." Again, this all points to a major design flaw IMHO. When I finally get the Miele visit, I shall make sure to be hovering with phone cam. Quite happy to go to Small Claims Court if they decide to get a*sey about honouring the guarantee - seems they always back down when faced with SCC. Scratching my head about why all this gunge somehow goes back up the door vent, into the element box on the top of the machine, and then down into the fan box - if it is due to powder-rich condensation from the drum during a wash, then the bottom line is that they need to fit some sort of automatic flap over that particular orifice. Would not expect Bosch, AEG etc. to necessarily spend the cash to do it, but for that £1000 premium I handed Miele, yes I would indeed expect it. p.s. amazed at how many people mention the near impossibility of getting hold of Miele manuals - bit late now we are exiting the EU, but I would have thought that would be open to a complaint regarding restriction of competition?
  25. 1 point
    Hi Andy, yes it's definitely the fan. I am a retired television engineer and the electronics are not a problem for me. I am disappointed though, the machine has not had excessive use and the washer part is still fine. However, thanks again Terry.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks again to bob12241 for publishing this solution. Such a cheap and easy fix after being pointed in the right direction. Very grateful.
  27. 1 point
    Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
  28. 1 point
    It's a sensor strip which is screwed to the inside of the front air duct, the electrical terminal at the end of the strip fits through the duct and attaches to a spade connector
  29. 1 point
    I totally agree with you, my comments regarding misdiagnosis were related to a few instances where I have seen blogs and the front control PCB was replaced instead of the main PSU board as an instance. Obviously they cannot carry a full compliment of spares for all manufacturers and sometimes the symptoms can be similar. I would never give a person advice that put them in danger and if I felt they weren't capable of following instructions I would advise them to seek professional help.
  30. 1 point
    This information was a help to me thank you
  31. 1 point
    Hi Skistones. Many thanks for the update. Yes appliance engineers have never repaired pcbs other than the odd dry joint soldering. There is no technical information for them even for the trade. However, many technical minded electronics experts have repaired their own using equivalent electronic parts. They clearly have experience and knowledge about these things that is never imparted to even the most well trained domestic appliance engineers. There is a company that specialises in repairing washing machine pcbs though, so anyone wanting to attempt that route could try contacting QER electronic repairs.
  32. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks. Have already emailed Zanussi with the same question, fingers crossed they can help!
  34. 1 point
    Hi Andy, thanks for your reply. I found a blockage in the drain and have cleared this, I think this was causing the water to back up. Unfortunately I think this has caused the pump to blow which is what tripped the power the other day. The machine is a Beko WM 74155 LW it looks like I can pick one up for about £30. I've been looking at some videos but do you or anyone else have any real world experience of changing the pump on these machines? Is it doable for a moderately competent DIYer?
  35. 1 point
    Hello Andy. Yes it may well be worth checking that. If it is related to this then of course it won't stop water backing backup into the water supply, it would just mean it less detectable if it isn't being contaminated. A permanent solution would still need to be getting a tap fitted that has anti-siphoning valve.
  36. 1 point
    I now realise that the new spider has the new bearing sizes, so actually I need a new rear drum casing with bearings. That solves it but it is annoying that LG cannot use consistent parts and tell suppliers what they used.
  37. 1 point
    My Eco Bubble after a year of battering it insides with every wash finally committed suicide with a 3E (motor) error message. The problem I found was the two screws that hold the motor in place had loosened enough to allow the motor to slop about, this was in my opinion worsened by the lack of any bushings on the mounting posts giving a 10mm overall slop!. The continual excessive movement caused strain on the motor connector bracket which sheared and allowed extra movement on the wiring loom eventually leading to the shortest wire to break and give the 3E error. I fixed the problem myself as the machine is needed daily and we couldn't wait for an engineer even though there is still a year left on the supposed '5 year warranty' I have uploaded photos of the problems I found in the hope they may be of help
  38. 1 point
    Hello Andy. Modern washing machines use far less water. I personally don't think it's a good thing but they all became obsessed with using as little water as possible. The way they get round using less water does make sense although they have probably gone too far. A good analogy is having a shower instead of a bath which uses a lot less water. With a bath you are soaking in water but need a lot of water for the job. With a shower you are showered with water which gets you just as wet but using far less water. Manufacturers use one of 2 methods or maybe even both. They design the drum paddles (or lifters) so that as they revolve through the water they scoop water up and sprinkle it over the laundry. The other method is using a recirculation pump. Many modern washing machines have a water pump that pumps water from the sump hose back through the top of the drum. Again this showers the laundry with water. Using these methods they can use less water but still saturate the laundry. It doesn't sound like it's working so well with your duvet but that's how it is supposed to work and they've been using this method for well over 10 years. The door seals in most washing machines are very poorly designed regarding retaining water. The 3 drain holes can be next to useless with some designs. My own washing machine is a Miele, it has the 3 drain holes in the bottom of the door seal. But there is a mug full of water retained in the bottom of the door seal after every wash. The only door seal design I've ever seen that are totally free from this problem were Asko and the Dyson washing machine. Both these washing machines did not have the large bellowed type door seal. They were designed in such a way where the door seal was similar to that on a tumble dryer. It's complicated to explain but it appeared to work extremely well. Never caught on the for some reason. If the door seal is getting clogged up with limescale and gunge I would put that down more to type and/or quantity of detergent being used and potentially which type of wash cycles rather than a reduced amount of water. I have a comprehensive article about this sort of issue here Get rid of washing machine smells and causes of grease &amp; slime inside washing machines
  39. 1 point
    Thanks Andy. I've done a quick measurement to confirm and they do seem like they would fit my machine so I think I am going to go for them. In terms of the proper feet I did find them but they were far too expensive in comparison. I will see how these go then update!
  40. 1 point
    I've just self-installed a WMB120 which weighs 94Kg (102Kg with packaging). Realise this is an old thread but just in case this helps anyone. They are very heavy but not unmanageable. Bear in mind that 94Kg is the weight of a largish adult male and your floor supports that fine, albeit maybe not focused on such a small area. Mine went under a work surface fine. It's hard work sliding it back but just take it slowly and push from the bottom and it will move, unless you have an exceptionally "grippy" floor surface. The hardest part I found was levelling it properly. You can't do this whilst it's under the work surface so it's a question of working out roughly which corners need adjustment with a spirit level whilst it's in place, then pulling it back out. Tip it up slightly (push firmly sideways from the top and it should grip the floor enough to tip rather than slide) then wedge a couple of books under it so you can get under and adjust the feet on that side. Slide back in, check level, repeat as necessary. It is tiring pushing it around so much. Transportation will be the biggest issue. The weight itself won't be a problem at all but getting it in and out of the car will require a couple of strong people at least as lifting that much weight that high is hard.
  41. 1 point
    The number 1 cause of the motor not turning is worn carbon brushes, but not all washing machine motors have carbon brushes in their motors, and there are multiple other possible causes too. The article I linked to before covers all my advice on this fault and contains relevant links.
  42. 1 point
    It was all down to some dirty/corroded contact on the board behind the front panel. He took it apart, cleaned it and bobs-your-uncle. Now, if only they had been able to tell me that this is what those flashing lights meant, I could have saved them the trouble! And that automated telephone system is a joke.
  43. 1 point
    Thx for the replies guys, I've been too busy to actually look into it. Will come back to it when I have more free time. For now it will just have to do as it is.
  44. 1 point
    Hi guys, Thanks for your input. I wanted to leave a follow-up here just to give some closure, and to help anyone else who might stumble across this thread with similar issues in the future. As it turns out, the washing machine had indeed been installed incorrectly. The drain pipe was not raised high enough at the back which meant that it did not retain enough water in the drum. Simultaneously, the installers had also managed to connect the machine to the our hot water supply rather than cold, which meant that at the start of a cycle, it was drawing water at around 65°C, recognising that this was much too hot, dumping it, and drawing (the same hot) water again.. It seems likely that this was the reason for the 'draw water - rotate - dump water - draw water again' cycle we were seeing. This does also explain why it would occasionally manage to complete a load - assumedly when it was a bigger load that retained more water in the fabric, and the hot water was depleted. Funnily enough, it also explains why we thought our boiler was broken! Frustratingly the engineers that installed it (from a UK chain who you would have thought would Know How to install a washing machine) returned twice to look at it. Even after Indesit telephone support suggested that it was likely an installation problem they managed to miss these issues both times. They simply claimed that if water went in and water went out again, then as far as they were concerned it was installed correctly. It took a call-out from an Indesit engineer to sort it - which took him less than fifteen minutes..
  45. 1 point
    Check there isn't a tub spring broken, the drum (tub) is held centrally in the casing usually by two springs at the top under the lid. Other than that it's usually the suspension that causes the drum to twist or lean to one side. One other thing to check it the chassis at the base of the machine, make sure nothing has broken, or come un-welded, or even that a fixing peg for one of the suspension legs (dampers) hasn't come off.
  46. 1 point
    I think instinctively most people would want to wash them separately but it may not be practical to get a proper full load using just the work clothes. If they are heavily soiled it might be better to pre soak them possibly using something like soda crystals or even normal detergent, then you could put them in with the normal wash. Check out presoaking.
  47. 1 point
    Yes, buying parts speculatively often costs more than paying an engineer. It's crazy how many people buy one part after another and it drags out over weeks and often give up having wasted a lot of money and time. If the fault is very intermittent it's going to be hard, but if it is playing up fairly frequently you need to observe it carefully when it stops pumping out. Listen to the machine, has the pump stopped running? Is it sounding different? It's definitely worth taking off the sump hose (Black hose leading to the pump) and maybe even the drain hose to see if you can find anything inside them.
  48. 1 point
    Andy, Wife used machine this aft, all ok. Water getting to temp. Had to take brushes off tonight to take a pic of them as struggling to locate correct items. Put back together run another wash, again all ok. Not much meat left on the brushes, can send photos if you want. I will keep you posted to assist others as it is frustrating when all you want to know is what the code means so you can fix it or scrap it! Cheers
  49. 1 point
    thanks for the reply. It was the belt - it had worn down completely and had split too. I was a bit unsure of taking the machine apart so I got a qualified engineer to fix the problem. It cost me, but at least i didn't have to worry about breaking something thru inexperience. As the engineer said, there's life in the ol girl yet. Didn't fancy forking out for a new machine, although I'll have to sooner or later....Thanks for sharing your experience on your great website!
  50. 1 point
    Hi Last week my CR01 developed a gear box fault which could not be repaired as Dyson no longer make the part. What Dyson did was remove the contra gear box and replaced it with a single gear that powers both drums. They also replaced the control board as it has updated software as well as both motors, several electrical parts, the coin trap and jack handle all for £99.00. A bargain When I was speaking to the engineer he told me that as a matter of course when they work on the machines they will change the control board and remove the contra rotation feature to extend the life of the machine. They will only replace the gear if it is faulty. I have checked my drums they no longer rotate independently. I have retained my original control board and gearbox and hopefully I will be able to get the broken part manufactured. When this is done I will replace the bearings and return the machine to its original state. What you need to find is an original control board. Good luck

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