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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    5 points
  2. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  3. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  6. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  7. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    2 points
  8. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  9. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  10. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  11. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  12. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  13. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  14. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  15. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  16. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  17. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  18. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  19. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  20. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  21. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  22. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  23. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  24. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  25. Hi Lesley The whole unit complete with casing comes out, in previous post I said that you have to jiggle it about, passing it down and under some pipes or other obstructions. You may have to cut 1 or 2 cable ties that hold the wiring loom in place in order to get enough slack to remove it. I assume the screws you are talking about are the ones that hold the casing in place, if not you have to remove them first. If you google "main circuit board Beko WDx854130w" and go to images you will see some with and some without the case. Regards Rob
    1 point
  26. In retrospect I'm not sure this has been a complete success.... No fear. I've just found out my machine is now on the fire recall list! Everyone take note and check the news today on this subject.
    1 point
  27. Hello Andy. I just came across this old topic. I'd just like to say that yes you were correct. Many of the Hotpoint washing machines do turn the pump off once they have detected that the water has gone. Historically this has never happened before and I still don't really see the sense of it. It just makes it difficult to test the pump if it only runs when water is inside. The last thing you want to do when investigating a faulty pump is to put water in the drum that might not get pumped out. I suppose an argument is that it saves wear and tear on the pump but I'm struggling to think why the ma
    1 point
  28. Hi Andy and Andy, Yes, I've been bitten by live caps before. After all, they are little batteries. Keep one hand behind your back is good advice. There's no visible evidence of a problem with the caps, but they can still be duff. I did drain the water out, but not enough it seems. The piece of foam that sits behind the control board housing was wet, so water getting to the board is very likely, thought the board itself was dry when I took it out.
    1 point
  29. Yes it looks the same but there are quite a few that look the same and I can't tell what will work and what won't. It says it should work so I should be able to send it back if it won't. Will see when it arrives.
    1 point
  30. I see. We have decided to get new a washer with a 10 year guarantee on parts which hopefully includes brushes but I'm guessing they are classed as disposable. Its not really worth repairing this Beko machine. Thanks for the information, it will come in handy for the future. Great website you have here, I will recommend it where possible. Also we will buy a new machine through one of your affiliates if they have the one we want. Thanks
    1 point
  31. If there is no space in the drum the laundry will just turn around in one big lump and have nowhere to fall and agitate when the drum revolves. That will impact wash efficiency and can even trap detergent in folds of the laundry. Having said that, some items of laundry will shrink when wet which can create some space. A heavy load should not trip the rcd. If it did, it should do it on the wash cycle. The heaviest strain on the motor is when the drum is full of water and it's trying to turn the drum on wash and rinse. Once on spin it's no where near as much strain as all t
    1 point
  32. Hi say a big thankyou washer has now settled down ALL GOOD again
    1 point
  33. Thanks Andy That is sobering and reflective. Yes I feel 6-7 years has been a good time on the machine. Will consider what to do next Much appreciated Peter
    1 point
  34. Thanks Andy, much appreciated. Have run several washes & all fine. Cheers !
    1 point
  35. Thank Andy. Both of the machines are around the same age, but as you said it is impossible to tell the true shape of the machine. One could have done heavy loads all day every day where as the other may have been used once a week for a load of white. Thanks again for the suggestion though, I will be reading more about the specific washer and then contacting the seller.
    1 point
  36. Hope this thread is still active. I too have had the same issue but I have found the root cause to be the gaping hole in the drum enclosure underneath the dryer heater(see attached pic) allowing water to be sprayed out and covering the pressure switch and the mains filter and blowing the fuse. This looks to me like it is a design fault.. The heat shield isn't large enough.
    1 point
  37. Regarding the noise they are probably referring to noise from vibration of the cabinet. Or possibly even cutting down the amplification of noise through the cabinet.
    1 point
  38. Samsung error 4E is time out on fill. It allows 2 minutes and if the water level hasn't risen in that time it times out with the error code. It's strange that yours takes 10 minutes. Have you checked water is running ok through the hoses? Do all the basic fault checking described here Washing machine won’t fill with water but if it isn't anything simple might need an engineer to trace it.
    1 point
  39. You were spot on with the connection problem, one of the wires was broken away from the connector, see pic, unfortunately mullered the connector a bit to see if I could reconnect it, but it doesnt seem possible, so I guess its a new, or replacement loom?
    1 point
  40. Hello there. Heating elements have always been hard to get out after they've been in for a long time because of the way they are held in place by the metal plate squashing the rubber. The longer one is left in place the more the rubber takes on the squashed shape and becomes very difficult to pull out. Back in the day all of the heating elements were fitted into aluminium back plates. They were still hard to get out but at least you had a solid metal surround which would be very difficult to damage. Difficult elements were prised out with large flat bladed screwdrivers. These days they are
    1 point
  41. Thanks very much. I must admit that I initially dismissed your response because the seal felt snug and I could clearly feel that the drainage holes were just leading nowhere. However you were completely correct - the metal ring that holds the gasket on on the inside of the machine had slipped off. Now rectified, many thanks for your help!
    1 point
  42. Only blockage I found was the hose that goes from pump out to sink has 2 connections one tiny one normal and the smaller one was blocked with grit but the main water hose was ok, Dont know if that is problem. Now its just a awkward case of reattaching hoses, might take 10 minutes might take 2 hours.
    1 point
  43. Thanks, I will try and report BWs F
    1 point
  44. Is the garage heated at all? Freezing weather, then warm summers can take its toll on wet rubber.
    1 point
  45. Thanks - that is most helpful. We are going down next week so will be able to check what you have suggested. My french is OK but I don't think I could explain the problem in french over the 'phone to a repair man!
    1 point
  46. Hi Thanks for your quick and informative response.I am pretty confident that the engineer hasn't checked either the plug, the motor or the heater for earth leakage,and this time I think that I should insist that he pulls the machine out from under the work surface and checks it all out as I do not want him back for a fourth time without either fixing the problem or declaring that its unfixable.Looking at previous posts on Bosch Machines it appears that the lower end priced Bosch machines are no more reliable than most other lower end priced brands.and as they are no longer made in Germany do
    1 point
  47. Hi Andy, just wanted to say thank you for your bit on facebook about the Samsung fridge freezers, after completing the checker thingy on the Samsung website, I have been informed that mine needs a home visit and samsung will contact me with 14 days to arrange. Many thanks again. Teri
    1 point
  48. Andy, Wife used machine this aft, all ok. Water getting to temp. Had to take brushes off tonight to take a pic of them as struggling to locate correct items. Put back together run another wash, again all ok. Not much meat left on the brushes, can send photos if you want. I will keep you posted to assist others as it is frustrating when all you want to know is what the code means so you can fix it or scrap it! Cheers
    1 point
  49. Thanks for all your postings, they've been a great help already. I am trying to keep four CR01s and one CR02 going with the aid of two donor machines. I have been buying whole machines off ebay as spares or repair and what I have been coming across recently are F15 faults where the two drum sections are unintentionally frozen together, so no amount of freeing off the gear-change ramps and making them slide easily makes any difference. As an experiment, I took one drum assy apart completely. Even with the twin drums out of the tub, I couldn't budge the spiders with a crow bar! The torx sc
    1 point
  50. Thanks for your help!! We've gone for the John Lewis one - and just the washing machine as we dont use the dryer hardly ever. It has all the features we need and its about 300-350 cheaper than the others !! We've paid an extra £75 for the extended guarantee to 5 years and £9 for them to take away the old one and we're fitting it ourselves so I think its a bargain really
    1 point

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