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  1. 2 points
    Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
  2. 2 points
    Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
  3. 2 points
    Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
  5. 2 points
    I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
  6. 2 points
    Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
  7. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  8. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  9. 2 points
    Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
  10. 2 points
    does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
  11. 2 points
    I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
  12. 2 points
    Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
  13. 1 point
    Hi Andy, a friend of mine came round to have a look before I splashed the cash on getting an engineer out. He managed to pull the offending item back through with his mole grips - it's all in the wrist action apparently! Did a wash and didn't sound like any harm had been done, although I can imagine that the offending brass thingy might have scoured the back of the drum casing somewhat. Hopefully will never find out. Once again, thanks for your help, I'll have to remember you next time I have a problem! Cheers Gary
  14. 1 point
    Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry cleanser liquid to the wash cycle which will kill germs at under 40'c (allegedly) if you can get it where you live or something similar. - Dont forget to leave the door ajar after the wash and at all times if you can, it allows air to get into the drum and dry it out rather than leave it condensated and damp (which can lead to damp smell) and wipe the grey rubber door gasket dry after every wash and look for black mould on the grey door rubber gasket (sometimes if it already is bad with mould sometimes you cannot even get rid of it by cleaning and you have to have the rubber door gasket replaced or replace the machine altogether if the mould has really got in there and taken hold. Have you ever cleaned out the pump filter on your washing machine? - on most washing machines the pump filter is behind a door or facia at the bottom of the machine (the instruction booklet will say how to) sometimes if they are not cleaned they , over time, get full of gunk of undisolved washing liquid / conditioner, hair, fluff, coins and buttons, and sometimes if the filter is dirty and need cleaning a 'damp' smell can emulate from the machine, Come up from the pump filter and the smell then can come out through the drum and soap drawer. Talking of soap drawer do you take that out regularly and clean it ? most soap drawers can be removed totally from the washing machine by pushing a clip down at the rear of the soap drawer same time while pulling out the soap drawer. Clean all the undisolved washing powder and soap liquid and conditioner off the drawer insides and at the bottom of the soap drawer and rinse it well and then dry it totally before putting it back in place. Again a 'yucky' soap drawer attracts mould and can give off a pungent damp smell. - Good luck , I am sure you will eradicate it or make it smell better in the end if you do all of that .. well I hope anyway. EDIT: I have sourced the Instruction Manual for your washing machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46003/Electrolux-Ewg-12440-W.html?page=3#manual
  15. 1 point
    So I was in contact with QER tech over the last week exchanged few short messages about the symptoms . He suggested that the PCB is not at fault in his opinion and generally was reluctant for me to send the board to test, he pointed to pressure sensor fault or possible earth leakage. I mentioned that I replaced the sensor and blown in it to try create different pressure to what he replied that this can damage the modern sensor. I was confused whether I've blown into the replacement sensor I got yet before I installed it so I bought another new replacement which when fitted in didn't make any change to the behavior. I then decided to buy new wires to the sensor to replace the whole pressure sensor circuit for new as I though the machine stood in showcase property and what if it never worked for some silly error and because faulty it was placed there by developer. The wire arrived today and as soon as I compared it to one on the machine the new wire connector had different guides on it which corresponded with other port on PCB which was not occupied. I tried to plug it there disconnected the original and VOILA ! PROBLEM FIXED!! The sensor was plugged in wrong port on PCB hence it was not picking up the feed from the sensor and kept switching the flood protection on. I have done a wash and dry today and works perfectly. It would have been clear immediately if there was a wiring diagram available, as such I must say it got repaired by luck. I have no clue why the connector would have been placed in wrong port, if it was repaired for other fault and then wrongly assembled and written off, no idea. I wanted to thank you Andy, for your kind advice and guidance through the course of testing. I have never had washing machine opened before and with your help I was able to begin understand how such machine works in principal. THANK YOU!!!
  16. 1 point
    Pressure switch should normally be off or on. Historically they’ve just been off until the correct amount of water creates enough pressure to switch the pressure switch on. The latest type of pressure switch seems to have a magnet inside a coil so potentially they might detect proper levels. If a pressure system is telling a washing machine it has water in when it hasn’t it usually tries to wash and rinse with no water in the drum. But modern washing machines operate the pump for 30 seconds before filling to wash. So it’s possible they check to make sure there’s no water in before filling. But I would still expect it to try draining the water out for a few minutes before giving up. If the pressure system is saying it has water in when it hasn’t I would still expect it to work on a spin only cycle. I’d expect it to try to drain water out for 2 or 3 minutes waiting for the signal that the water has gone. When it doesn’t get the signal it should then abort without spinning. If the washer thinks it’s overfilled though it should keep pumping trying to get rid of the water. But again I would expect it to try for several minutes at least. If the pressure switch isn’t expensive it might be worth a try but not sure. Fingers crossed.
  17. 1 point
    Hello Tom. If the pump is making a buzzing noise but no water is being drained out then there is a blockage somewhere, or the pump is not running but if it is a different pump with the same fault then it seems very unlikely that the pump would not be running. The only thing I could imagine is if the pump isn't receiving enough voltage that I have not heard of that before. However, if there is a blockage somewhere preventing water from being expelled the pump would be making a noise. Did you clean out the sump hose ball that was mentioned earlier that I described can stick and block the water in the drum from getting to the pump? Have you checked for blockages at the end of the drain hose where it connects under the sink at the u-bend? Remove the drain hose and check in the end plus remove the spigot it connects to and inspect that and the u-bend where it connects for obstructions. It's impossible to hear any buzzing from your video on YouTube because the radio was playing. The first link doesn't work at all. I'm assuming it's on a drain section? No water is being pumped out at all. Has the pump got a filter at the front? If so drain out all of the water you can, play several thick towels in front of it and remove the filter. Then put the washing machine onto a spin cycle and see if you can see that the pump impeller is spinning or not. You need to establish 100% if the pump is running or not. If it is running but not draining then it can only be a blockage somewhere in the system. If it is not running, or it is just humming and the impeller isn't spinning round then it can only be a fault on the pump, something jamming the pump, or an electrical fault somewhere.
  18. 1 point
    Hello Tom. A loud grinding noise when the pump is running is usually caused by a small object that has got inside and is being tossed around by the impeller. It is possible for certain objects, (especially if made of plastic) to float about up the sump hose or even partially up the drain hose. This means they are not discovered when looking for obstructions. But when the washing machine is in operation again they get sucked back into the pump. It's also possible that a bearing has failed on the pump. If the washing machine cannot pump out the water fast enough it will usually refuse to spin. It will just click and stop. But it is possible for it to have pumped enough water out to allow a spin, but then cannot cope with the influx of expressed water from the laundry. This would result in the spin being uneven with lots of water being thrown about inside the drum. This could very easily trigger the out of balance system to either abort the spin, or abort the fastest spin.
  19. 1 point
    I can’t see it, but without knowing what is wrong I wouldn’t try to persuade you. If it trips the electrics (as opposed to blowing a fuse) then it trips safely and in milliseconds. That’s the purpose of modern RCD boards. If you decide not to run it again make sure you have the same load that did it in the first place in the drum or one similar in weight for testing. The first thing an engineer should do is test the machine with an insulation test meter. Then thoroughly check for signs of a leak or any wires that could be catching. Then put the washing machine on rinse to wet the laundry and finally test it on full spin. If they don’t do all that they haven’t tried to find the fault. If they do, but find nothing and it doesn’t trip there’s nothing more they can do. If they try to charge you saying there is no fault refuse to pay and remind them that it tripped the electrics and you didn’t imagine it and how many times it did it. Tell them that if they cannot find an intermittent fault that in no way proves there is no fault.
  20. 1 point
    That’s sorted it thanks! i didn’t plumb the original machine in and I’m a bit of a novice so assumed it was part of the pipe! Baffled how it’s been working all these years! Thanks for your help!
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Andy, much appreciated. Have run several washes & all fine. Cheers !
  22. 1 point
    Hope this thread is still active. I too have had the same issue but I have found the root cause to be the gaping hole in the drum enclosure underneath the dryer heater(see attached pic) allowing water to be sprayed out and covering the pressure switch and the mains filter and blowing the fuse. This looks to me like it is a design fault.. The heat shield isn't large enough.
  23. 1 point
    Ah, got it now Andy, thanks! This is the first Keymatic launched and Hoover's first automatic washing machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m40HI12gbPI&t=59s
  24. 1 point
    It's the quality of components that tends to let them down. If built well a pcb should virtually never fail but they fail all the time.
  25. 1 point
    I can also confirm that plast-aid is brilliant. My repair has lasted over 4 years now after an errant bra wire punched through the side of the drum without any issues at all. Washing machine is used on all settings 4-5 times a week. Have also used it for fixing broken switches etc It's the only plastic repair product that seems to hold forever, rather than go brittle after a few months. Worth every penny IMO
  26. 1 point
    Yes, sorry - when I said motor I did mean the pump Right, so there'll be some sort of PCB that controls the 240v supply to the pump so if it's not the cable then I assume it'll probably be an expensive engineer job, in which case I think I'm better off buying a new machine - this one's about 6 years old anyway so probably not worth throwing hundreds at. Cheers for the advice!
  27. 1 point
    Many thanks Andy, your video confirms it for me - it's the bearings. The noise is identical to the noise mine has been making for a few months, the knocking has only just started but doesn't matter now I think I'll list it on ebay for spares or repairs - if I'm allowed I can provide the link here? My machine has a sealed drum so I can't get a bearing kit I have to buy a new drum (cute Hotpoint.... very cute) - so I'm going cheap this time there's a nice Bush machine for £139 (half the price of a hotpoint) and see how long she lasts. OK Andy... thanks again!
  28. 1 point
    I think you will find that you only have to use that piece if you use Liquid detergent and dose through the soap Drawer. Helps you measure out the liquid. If I were using liquid detergent myself I would put it in a dosing ball and straight into the drum rather than putting it in the soap drawer personally
  29. 1 point
    Error F09 on Hotpoint washing machines usually means "set up error" - "incorrect or faulty Eeprom" which is the main chip. I would not get involved in buying and fitting a PCB. Many of them have to be programmed and you may need software to do it. You could try sending it to a specialist in repairing and reconditioning them like QER but only if you are determined to try and get it fixed.
  30. 1 point
    Hi again Andy, The brushes arrived today, two days earlier than expected. Success it works!!! A bit fiddly getting the brushes in bet well worth the effort. I usually do take photos but in the heat of the moment when struggling with the motor removal I lost it and started pulling off wires. All good now and thanks for the help/tips. John
  31. 1 point
    It was all down to some dirty/corroded contact on the board behind the front panel. He took it apart, cleaned it and bobs-your-uncle. Now, if only they had been able to tell me that this is what those flashing lights meant, I could have saved them the trouble! And that automated telephone system is a joke.
  32. 1 point
    fair enough. ive just taken delivery of a samsung this am so i'll see how it goes....thanks fro your time.
  33. 1 point
    Yeah it was in the pump filter. Thanks!
  34. 1 point
    Yes, I cannot overstate how much better a Miele washing machine is to everybody else's. A Miele washing machine is currently very close to the build quality of washing machines from 20 or 30 years back. The rest are just playing at it in comparison. Buying a Miele is not a panacea because they are much more expensive, and if they do need repairs in the future they can be very expensive too. However, I have had a Miele washing machine for the last 8 years and it still sounds and performs as new, it has never given a single problem, and I still expect it to last at least another 8 years. If you want a proper washing machine you have to go Miele. If you don't want to invest that kind of money then fair enough, that seems to be the majority of people. In such a case there's not a lot of difference between the rest in my opinion.
  35. 1 point
    Only blockage I found was the hose that goes from pump out to sink has 2 connections one tiny one normal and the smaller one was blocked with grit but the main water hose was ok, Dont know if that is problem. Now its just a awkward case of reattaching hoses, might take 10 minutes might take 2 hours.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks once again for such a detailed reply. I have actually printed off your responses and stuck them onto my notice board for when I do my washing. It was quite frustrating not knowing what all the numbers and baffling icons meant. I think your replies are a prime example of the usefulness of forums and members who have such a fountain on knowledge and information like yourself. Really appreciate your help. cheers, Jason
  37. 1 point
    Yes it does look like it's got screw holes, many just clip into place and can be swapped over in less than a minute. Some Hotpoint and Indesit ones just need a small screw driver pressing into a specific hole to bend down a clip and allow it to slide out. If yours wont slide out and appear fixed solid it may be they need screwing in from the other side. In that case, unless you are up for stripping the drum out and all that involves I'd get an engineer in or return the part unopened for a refund and abandon the job. On my 4washerhelp site it says, "This genuine replacement Drum Paddle is an easy to fit replacement part", which if it turns out you need to strip the drum out is pretty incorrect. One thing to think about is, could it be possible to get to the screw from underneath by removing the sump hose? It's a long shot, but could they have designed it so that it lines up with the hole in the sump hose aperture?
  38. 1 point
    Further to what Andy has said above, does your washing machine have a prewash option? It may be worth using this so that a certain level of the washing process is done before the main wash, so that the main wash water isn't full of grease. A little tip - a tablespoon of Borax Subsitute (available to purchase online, and it's very cheap) in with your washing detergent will keep chef whites looking their best.
  39. 1 point
    The 60 degree wash is the one they test for the eco labels. They may well use less water on the 60 degree wash so that they can cheat the energy usage labels. By using less water they can claim it costs less on that cycle because it will cost less to heat up a lesser amount of water. They get up to all sorts of tricks including even not letting them get to 60 degrees (Washing machines not delivering right temperature)
  40. 1 point
    I don't believe it would fill then drain some out, that would be a waste of detergent. Turning the stop tap up wouldn't affect my machine one bit. Machines have a pressure sensor and as water enters the drum it increases pressure in a plastic tube with goes to a switch. Once there is adequate water, the pressure switch operates and then turns off the water and allows the cycle to begin. Sometimes as the cycle starts it may take in more water as the clothes soak some up and reduce the pressure, you would expect that, but not for it to drain some away. Maybe the tube has some muck at the bottom of it. You can see the tube usually connected to the bottom of the drum and run up behind the front panel. If I get problems with water the first thing I do is disconnect the tube from the switch and give it a hefty blow.
  41. 1 point
    The speed is controlled through monitoring the small tacho coil and magnet at the end of the motor where the motor plug is. As the armature turns, the magnet revolves and the control board can count the revolutions.
  42. 1 point
    Hoover used to fit the same module or programmer to 800, 1100, and 1200 spin machines and the same motor. Instructions were to cut this link for 1200, cut this one for 1300 etc. The faster spin machines had a smaller drum pulley too.
  43. 1 point
    Washing machine motors are controlled by a board. They have to be. If you take any washing machine motor and put pure uncontrolled voltage into it, it will spin like a jet turbine. I've seen this with the sensor on the motor shaft removed. This sensor reports back to the control board the revs of the shaft, so the power can be adjusted accordingly. It doesn't just give the same set voltage everytime the machine spins or washes, because it simply wouldn't work. A full drum is not going to spin at the same speed as an empty drum unless power can be increased. The motor will be turning at near enough the same speed as the old one but obviously the pulley wheel sizes will influence the overal drum rotation speed because they are essentially gears. So, if you put a motor rated at 2000 rpm spin (just as an a silly example) into your machine, the spin speed will be reduced to 1200 by the board because the revs are monitored and controlled from there. Taking it the pulley sizes are the same of course.
  44. 1 point
    Well, I went to look at the one for sale (spares/repair), and was initially disappointed, as it was the same symptoms as mine - large gap at top between drum and seal. He said the fault was a controls issue; it had a new PCB, new rotor, and new stator. All to no avail, so with their insurance a new machine was provided; the new one is basically an 'up-to-date' variant of mine... With exactly the same gap too! I guess it must have been there all along & I didn’t notice it until I rebuilt it... I'll plug/plumb it back in and test it, not with the best linin I should add!
  45. 1 point
    Hi, just wanted to update that after doing a continuity test on the solenoid valve it showed that it was indeed bugg3red! So £15 from our local spares shop (flippin out of stock on ebay, grrr!) and we are all back up and running again.
  46. 1 point
    Hi Andy, I was fortunate with mine, one of the pins from a relay had a blown connection on the board. Could only spot it with a magnifying glass. I have a mate who does electronics repairs so he repaired this for me (2 pints of cider) and now all up & running again. Thanks very much for your advice and for bolstering my confidence. When I pulled all the connectors off the board I should have taken a photo or marked them, I did make marks on the final 3 but they all looked so obvious that I thought this was not really necessary. I was very glad that I had these as a starting point, lots of counting pins to replace the other ones. Thanks a million, mother v. happy Cheers Dave
  47. 1 point
    Pictures as discussed - Many thanks.
  48. 1 point
    Thank you Andy. I have found your articles very interesting and helpful. I didn't realise choosing a washing machine could be so complex and enjoyable (until now I've always bought the highest speed with lowest cost!) I feel I've chosen the best for me (considering price) taking into consideration all your informative variables - thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers x
  49. 1 point
    Thank you - for understanding my dilemma and signposting me to your most informative article on spin speeds, with a host of useful comments following on. I noticed a B rating for the machines I moved on to look at, then found another helpful article of yours that put these ratings into perspective also. So, narrowed down choice to lower price Meile or John Lewis, and now decided - I think : ) JLWM1411 is £100 less than the 1600rpm I was going for, a review of it mentions how dry the washing comes out, and unlike the Meile I couldn't really just about afford, the JL has 8kg drum, leaving plenty of extra time to do other household drudgery, and a timer delay to take advantage of my solar panels. Your support very much appreciated. Thank you.
  50. 1 point
    We had a new kitchen and white goods installed 2 years ago. In the last 3-4 months our washing machine has started to put holes in our laundry, most notably a very expensive set of high quality bedding. Fortunately it is in the underside so doesnt show. hat is not the point though. Initally I thought the fault was mine, either I had overloaded the machine or was using it on the wrong cycle but given that I have not changed the cycle I use for 2 years I cannot see how this can be the cause now. Today one of my husbands shirts has come out with exactly the same holes. We do not have T shirts affected (as most commonly reported on the forum) but definitely the lighter cottton items are being damaged. I will post photographs of the damage in due course and in the meantime intend writing to the manufacturer for their feedback.
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