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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    3 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  6. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  7. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  8. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  9. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  10. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  11. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  12. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  13. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  14. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    2 points
  15. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  16. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  17. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  18. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  19. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  20. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  21. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  22. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  23. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  24. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  25. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  26. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  27. Jayj, you have spured me on last night to fix my drying issue..... so I took apart the machine and cleaned out all of the dirt/fluff.... here are some photos..... There are a number of videos to open the top of the machine, but once inside, if you open up the silver box this is were the heating elements are. There are three 30torx screws holding this down, and it is also sealed. You will need some heat resistant silicon sealant (say from Halfords) to reseal. Note that it is hinged on the right hand side. You can see all the dirt/soap scum etc inside mine. To open, undo the three torx and
    1 point
  28. Thanks Andy Checked the brushes, low and behold both of down to almost nothing. Got new spares and fitted them it started up straight away and has been running fine. Small bit of rattling noise from drum but running like new again. Cheers
    1 point
  29. Hi Ajwicks, I have had a quick look on Beko website and the only info I can give is on page 64 section 7 items 1&2. This does mention a problem where a power failure might cause the machine to go into self protection mode and the solution they offer is to press and hold the on/off button for 3 seconds. If that fails it could be either of the 2 main boards, not gonna be cheap. Check all connections in case one has worked loose. Link to manual below https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.net/bekoupload/manuals/WDR7543121.pdf Regards Rob
    1 point
  30. Another registration just to thank bob12241. Our Beko WDIY854310F failed to power on as of Sunday evening - mysteriously a mere 5 days after the 2 year warranty expired. Sounds like a lot of people have experienced this incredible coincidence! As in Bob’s post, D7 on the distribution PCB had failed short when tested out of circuit. Very easy 50p repair. Very happy to help anybody locally with a similar problem - we are between Portsmouth & Southampton. Many thanks, Bob.
    1 point
  31. Thank you for your advice rob. I will check it out. Cheers Antony
    1 point
  32. Thanks Andy, will have a read of this.
    1 point
  33. No noise has been noticed, checked a new Miele today and the inner drum is slightly behind the outer drum so mine has moved forward slightly
    1 point
  34. Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid
    1 point
  35. You shouldn't be able to push the drum front to back. If the drum is moving front to back on the shaft that's whats cutting into the outer drum. Sealing the worn plastic is no good if the drum is still catching on it. Also I would say it's a bit of a long shot to seal it. To be honest I would say it needs a new drum.
    1 point
  36. That looks as if the inner drum has been catching on the plastic outer drum and gauging through it? Is the inner drum noisy, can you lift it up and down, is it scraping when you turn it?
    1 point
  37. Would just like to add that I am also experiencing the exact problem as described by Iain (same model too). I also was about to buy replacement sensors (which trip regularly) but I’m glad I didn’t as that doesn’t appear to be the issue. I’ll be dismantling the fan and ensuring it’s clear of any lint later today (will report back) but yeah, not something I want to be doing every 6 months. I can’t really add anything other than #metoo . Just wanted to add some weight behind it being a design flaw I guess.
    1 point
  38. Hello. Error codes implicating the temperature sensor (or NTC) often say things like, "NTC or module, check connections". The Hoover Nextra range uses, "NTC/Heater fault". So an error rarely implicates a specific part that is definitely the cause - which is a great shame. If it worked for a bit then failed I would very carefully check connections. There's always a possibility of a pcb fault, which I would advise against dealing with.
    1 point
  39. I will, definitely. I should have the part on Tuesday.
    1 point
  40. Holds the outer part of the seal to the front o f the cabinet
    1 point
  41. Hello Thanksnfor your help, will look after those possible factors are mentioned in your articles. I hope we will find the problem and there"s no serious electric fault which causes the failure. kind regards Gabriel
    1 point
  42. Hi. It would be difficult to fit such a bulky element near the dispenser. There's little room in modern washing machines for anything new, especially large drum capacity ones. Also for it to instantly heat all water passing through it then it would need to be pretty powerful. Time spent heating up the water isn't an issue. Biological detergents in particular apparently work most effectively when starting in cold water and gently heating up. Also time is an essential component of the wash calculation. Laundry is washed by mechanical action combined with water and detergent. The detergent n
    1 point
  43. Hi the company has not repaid the machine or taken any parts away the machine worked fine for 3 weeks then the door light flashed and the machine would not engage they said that the main board had blown and this is due to the damp conditions behind the machine. the previous 2 machines had also broke the 1st one the bearings had gone and the 2nd one was an electrical fault then this one the main board went. the company seamed genuine and did come out very quick but I was left with a broken machine as they refused to repair under warranty and blamed the damp, can this brake a machine?
    1 point
  44. Unfortunately Miele are one of the brands that are difficult to get technical information for if you are an independent repairer. It is the same with many appliance brands but especially so with premium high-quality brands like Miele. At the end of the day the situation is that manufacturers who not only build and sell appliances but have a department that repairs them will inevitably see independent engineers as rivals and competition and are therefore commonly reluctant to help them. With Miele there is the added complexity of them being sophisticated premium appliances and Miele believe tha
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. Thanks everyone! I've been doing as you suggested and so far nothing ruined Now I'm pretty sure no3 is 60º and no4 is 40º (I only use those) Thanks for the help!
    1 point
  47. Hi. I have been doing some washes without any powder added, quite a lot actually. I am convinced it is over soaping from the previous machine. The suds level is going down and I am starting to add small amounts to the wash now. Dirty clothes are coming out clean and smelling washed as well. The level of suds in a large wash was quite a surprise and considering no powder actually added was something to see. I did prove this by washing some bedding that we have had stashed away for years and never used. No powder added and there were no suds, pretty obvious I suppose and it was after a maintena
    1 point
  48. Hiya, just to let you know I finally got it sorted. Went on Holiday for a week, returned and ran a few 90 degress washes..Then the wife did alot of post holiday washes ( still no top spray). Very next day, no more noise and spray was coming out the top spout !! I reckon all the washes has unclogged the hose between both pumps which I was due to remove and check. Sorted now. thx for your help. Ray..
    1 point
  49. A couple of things: I was looking for a baby guide to shock absorber replacements.... everywhere it is said that it is "easy".. but none of the descriptions of the work that I read were complete. So, this is my attempt. First, our W820 has no bottom plate, so access is possible through the base, contrary to what was written above: BUT, you might not need it.. read below. The steps are as follows: 1) Open the washer door. Turn off and disconnect the power. 2) Remove the top: To do this, take out the two plastic screw covers on the left and right of the top and undo the screw. (Crosshead
    1 point
  50. Looks like a washer dryer, the control knob with the times on it should set it going after its finished washing and spinning if set to a time. The should normally be a separate programme for drying after the last wash programme but I can't see anything obvious. Try putting it on a wash with the timer set for an hour or so to see if the dryer starts up after it's finished washing.
    1 point

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