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Showing content with the highest reputation since 21/09/20 in Posts

  1. No problem :-) it's just what I do
    1 point
  2. Andy you were correct, it was a small screw like object. Looks like I will have to be more accurate next time. How can I donate you some money for a beer? You saved me quite a lot of money.
    1 point
  3. Hello Tom. It's difficult to hear anything drastically wrong there although I can hear a strange noise high-pitched noise every so often. The main thing I noticed is that the drum and motor seem to be running quite unevenly. Was there a small load of laundry in when you took the video? It looked as if there was an unbalanced load in there, which can stop it from going into a fast spin. It might be better to try running it again without any laundry in at all.
    1 point
  4. Just signed up to say a massive thank you to @bob12241, replacing the D7 diode on the main controller of my 16 month old Beko WDR8543121W washer drier solved the issue of my machine not turning on too. Followed the advice of others by buying an up-rated STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying 100V 2A diode, so total repair cost was just £2.10! Interestingly I was getting strange / unexpected readings from other diodes so wasn't sure if they were bust too, but I think as someone on the thread point out, you won't necessarily get accurate readings when testing diodes soldered onto a board (need to de-sold
    1 point
  5. Hi does this help?
    1 point
  6. Hi Guys! I've just bought a nos GEC motor for my WM51 w/m, and it came with a pinout sheet for the various plugs used on these motors, I know its probably too late for the OP, but I'll post a pic of it on here for future reference. btw, the motor was an older model, with a different design tacho, but I'm swapping over the armatures as it's the usual bearing issue. btw(2), the bearing on the commutator end is easy to change with a small 2-arm puller... the one I've got is for removing wiper arms and battery terminals, and works a treat! A replacement bearing is type 6001 zz/c3, 28mm x 12mm x
    1 point
  7. Again many thanks to bob12241! I had this same issue with my Beko 3 years old WDR7543121B with the mother board number G09, the machine didn't turned / power on and after testing D7 that was where the problem was! Saved me quite a few £££'s
    1 point
  8. Just an update to say this fault has been sorted thanks to Andy’s great advice. It was an almost complete blockage in the pressure chamber at the bottom of the drum. This caused so many faults with indicator lights showing check drainage, check inlet etc. Thanks again Andy.
    1 point
  9. Well I finally got to the bottom of the leak and my Samsung Ecobubble is fixed. I removed the tub but before I separated the two plastic pieces of the tub my wife had the idea of filling the tub outside in the garden with water. There no leak from the tub seal but there was a leak in the front half of the plastic tub. This was where a piece of metal had broken off the spider arm was jammed between the outer plastic tub and the tub seal and had scored a groove in the front half of the plastic tub. I had noticed this before but I didn’t realise the groove was so deep. Anyway, I filled the groove
    1 point
  10. Thanks Andy, will have a read of this.
    1 point
  11. Hi sorry for the late reply/update but I’ve been waiting for parts. I got to the bottom of my problem after I stripped the washing machine down. The spider arm assembly had disintegrated causing the drum to spin off balance I presume. Anyway, I replaced one half of the drum and spider assembly (as you can’t buy them separately for my model) put it back together and it works perfectly other than a small leak from the bottom of the machine. I replaced the tub seal also but did not use silicone to seal it, I suspect that’s why it’s now leaking. So I’m now going to strip the whole lot down again a
    1 point
  12. Hi All, I would really like to extend thanks to bob12241 - and other contributors on this thread. We have a BEKO WDX8543130W purchased August 2018 which stopped working over a week ago mid-September, with the lights off on the main pannel failure and hearing the very slight (mouse type) beep coming from the machine. After googling and finding this thread/forum for which I am eternally greatful, we set out to fix it. Therefore, for a 45p Schottky Rectifier (100V 2A DO-204AL) and a £12 Solder kit from Amazon, we fixed the machine within 45 minutes based upon comments and very very
    1 point
  13. Hi you don't need the fluke tester as it not suited (if memory serves)n but the multimeter should do the trick. If it has a diode symbol on it (looks like a triangle with a bar across the top and tails both ends), there are loads of videos on the web that cover it in great detail and it is a simple process. You cannot test it 100% whilst in circuit, you need to desolder 1 leg and lift it clear to test as other components have an affect on your readings. Just Google "Diode Testing" Regards Rob
    1 point
  14. Thanks for your help.
    1 point
  15. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  16. What a FANTASTIC thread. I'm assuming my washer drier has the same issue and I'm taking it apart as I post. I get very cynical about stuff like this. Do diodes usually blow or could it be a case of Beko usings cheap/crap ones on purpose to get people to sign up to their monthly insurance plans?
    1 point
  17. Hi thanks Andy it has been noisy for a wee while.so probably better off buying new ,this one ows us nothing.
    1 point
  18. Well problem solved after all that it was a 5p obstructing the drain pump hose, as I couldn't get the front cover off to remove all of the pump assembly I only swapped the drain pump motor bit, our repair guy had to partially remove the front face of the washer to remove the pump assembly (most washers I have seen just have screws and your off, this one has a faceplate that can only be removed when the front panel of the washer is partially removed) and as he predicted it was a perfectly sized 5p blocking the pipe..ah well you live and learn
    1 point
  19. All working with new brushes
    1 point
  20. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    1 point

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