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Showing content with the highest reputation since 30/09/19 in Posts

  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    3 points
  2. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  3. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  4. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  5. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  6. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    2 points
  7. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  8. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  9. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  10. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  11. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  12. Hi thanks Andy it has been noisy for a wee while.so probably better off buying new ,this one ows us nothing.
    1 point
  13. Mine was the recirculation pump. I changed it on the weekend and the noise has stopped.
    1 point
  14. I can confirm this works great info Rob god bless you , saved me A lot of money.
    1 point
  15. Weird... I keep posting a reply but it never shows up! Again... 5 hours ago, Whitegoodshelp (Andy) said: I've also long thought that renting Miele washing machine out would be a great business though I hadn't thought of Miele themselves doing it, which I like. If I see your face beaming out of a Miele magazine ad announcing this service, I'll want my cut... ;o) Yes, the cabinet (of our 8yr old machine at least) is as good as they make out, very tough. And good to know the bearings are well made. The biggie for me
    1 point
  16. Thanks very much kind sir you've given me am idea to diagnose my own problem with a washer dryer.
    1 point
  17. We have a washing machine plumbed into (cold water only) a non-mains supply from a low header tank in our flat. An old 1bar minimum machine (Bosch) used to repeatedly time-out on fills. Could be prodded to carry on from where it had left off, but pretty annoying. We eventually (when that broke) replaced that with an AEG which supposedly worked down to 0.5bar and that did seem to be much better behaved. But recently it too started misbehaving. Timeouts on fills, but also the conditioner drawer compartment didn't seem to be getting any water.... instead of dripping through the roof
    1 point
  18. Hi Andy i saw this article Regarding the pcb failure, when you do replace pcb you have to buy the programmer on top of that and it is not worth it, as the pcb will Be around £100 and the pcb reader will be around £150 and for myself diy it is not worth it. i might as buy another Hotpoint washing machine. Thanks for your reply.
    1 point
  19. Thank you again to bob12241 as I have today replaced the diode D7 all okay now. Another one to add to the list 18 Months old. Thanks again Rob
    1 point
  20. Thanks for your help, it was the brushes, one was stuck. Working again for now but not much meat left on them so just need to track some replacement's down.
    1 point
  21. I've got a hypothesis on what causes the beeping. My fairly new washerdryer INDESIT XWDE751480 started randomly beeping some time ago, showing no obvious pattern. Googling for solutions didn't help. I decided to run a cleaning program as instructed in the manual (hold A and B for 5 seconds). Somewhat about 5 minutes in the program the washer went into a beeping frenzy. It got me nervous and I had to switch it off. This incident tipped me off to the idea that the temperature might be associated with beeping. The evidence is: 1. All the beeping happens only during the wash cycl
    1 point
  22. And I also need to correct the guesswork in the latter part of this thread - at some point, after looking at another's user olde Miele, it appeared to be the case that the heater fan in his model was located in the bottom of the washer/dryer. Mistake - in the case of the WT2780 the heater fan is definitely on the top of the machine, though a duct connects this fan to something at the bottom of the machine, but not sure what....
    1 point
  23. Well, finally got a warranty repair on this (and it might be that the dryer system for the WT2780 is different from older models such as the WT945). Shall post details under a new title, so easier to find for anyone else pulling their hair out.
    1 point
  24. I've contacted both Arcelik in Turkey who make the dryers for Beko, and Beko themselves. And for good measure I have filled out an online form for UK and Ireland trading standards . it said on their website 'if you think you have come across a safety issue on an appliance fill out this form and we will see if it needs investigating' - so out of that lot , someone should get back to me. i have contacted Beko in the past about a condenser dryer not drying fully and they were terrible after sales service, so I am not expecting too much from them, but maybe Trading Standards might reply about it.
    1 point
  25. I would definitely contact the manufacture, especially if you are getting small shocks from it. They should be able to tell you if the drum should be earthed or not.
    1 point
  26. I will have a good read of it and follow through with all the ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated!!
    1 point
  27. Hi Leon. Thanks for that. Yes that drum spider is seriously corroded and cracked. That means as the drum revolved there would be movement of the drum on the shaft. The large marks show that with certain loads the back of the drum has been catching on the outer tub and should have been making metallic scraping noises. Just make sure you follow the advice in my following articles to try and prevent your new washing machine from suffering the same fate (if lucky enough to last that long) as the corrosion is associated with grease, slime and limescale build up - Washing machine smells
    1 point
  28. I've had the same issue for a while and ive just discovered if I lightly press anywhere on the front panel (around screen and buttons) it causes a the beep to occur. At least i can now demonstrate this to the engineer. I assume it is a circuit board problem.
    1 point
  29. Hi Rob, same fault on my WDR7543121B - same PCB as your model, many thanks for the fault find
    1 point
  30. Hello Andy. Sorry I didn't pay much attention to this as it's tumble dryers and it's only supposed to be washing machine forums. I have thought about opening it up to other appliances but I like the fact that it specialises in washing machines and it's enough work for me just dealing with washing machines :-) some tumble dryers have different settings for different types of dryness. Our tumble dryer for example allows you to set options for cupboard dry or extra dry for example. If anything I would expect a vented dryer to be a bit more efficient. Also there is a problem when mixing diffe
    1 point
  31. Hi again, >>I also checked out six other well-known washing machine brands and they are all exactly the same. Two stars, one star, "<< yeah, think you are right there. If I hadn't been so exhausted reading through every single Miele entry, I had intended to do the same! (Ironically, one of the few companies to get 3+ stars is.. Indesit, i.e. el cheapo) I agree about the reviews being skewed to people who complain (as they are more likely to vent their feelings than satisfied people) - shame the National Appliance Federation or whatever it is called does not mandate an ind
    1 point
  32. Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.
    1 point
  33. Just signed up to thank gus for his post, had same issue and before reading this I had bypassed the interlock with no joy, interlock obviously shorted and took out the triacs on board purchased new of eBay for 2.38 gbp and soldered to board and fixed machine Attached picture of which one blew
    1 point
  34. hello, Thank you so much for sharing this helpful information, it helped me alot Thanks and regards.:)
    1 point
  35. Normally a fault on the washer dryer section does not affect the washing machine. It's possible that whatever is causing the electrics to trip has nothing to do with the dryer and it was just coincidental. This fault needs an insulation test meter to track exactly where the electricity is leaking to earth. Please let us know if you get to the bottom of it.
    1 point
  36. Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics
    1 point
  37. Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?
    1 point
  38. Thanks for the reply Andy, that is helpful. I have dismantled the dryer and checked the fan etc. I will carry on with the fault finding and let you know what I find, Terry
    1 point
  39. I had exactly the same issue and when I checked the diode mentioned above it turned out to be blown, replaced the diode and the machine works fine.
    1 point
  40. Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back
    1 point
  41. Thanks bob12241. Second time ours went since buying it over three years ago. Took BEKO three weeks to source replacement PCB and make the repair. This time it was out of warranty so I feared the worst but your fix had us back up and running the next day.
    1 point
  42. Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
    1 point
  43. Mine started doing this last month. It washes fine though. I did wonder if the filter needed cleaning maybe, but I can't get the front off. I have however tried the pressing delay button fix, and it has worked! Perhaps these button are getting pressed accidentally when wiping down the machines? Anyway, no beeping at the moment, so thank you very much for the hint.
    1 point
  44. Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
    1 point
  45. Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid
    1 point
  46. That looks as if the inner drum has been catching on the plastic outer drum and gauging through it? Is the inner drum noisy, can you lift it up and down, is it scraping when you turn it?
    1 point
  47. Hello! And thank you! An update to what I wrote before: that didn't actually solve the problem. The issue was with a faulty door lock which sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. We changed it and now the machine works. The E18 error is still there, though...
    1 point
  48. Many thanks to bob12241 I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2 Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash.
    1 point
  49. Hi Andy I followed your steps above I then got my camera phone and took a video around the pipe. It seems i was 3 mm out and the marker marks helped me locate the exact position along with your link above. I can successfully confirm the Leak has stopped. So now I need to re-run through the electrical tips above and ensure its not a neural problem before a new element is ordered. Many Thanks
    1 point

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