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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    5 points
  2. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  3. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  6. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  7. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    2 points
  8. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  9. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  10. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  11. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  12. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  13. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  14. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  15. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  16. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  17. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  18. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  19. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  20. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  21. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  22. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  23. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  24. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  25. Always like your honesty Andy, and reassuring to know that Which? use your services. Now, I always assumed that Miele got hyperbolic ratings because the ex-CEO was being bunged models for free, but now wondering if it was because you are such a Miele fan-boy! ;o) Depressing to hear about Miele economising on certain parts. Given their size, and the fact they have no shareholders, not sure what the excuse would be - they must be making money hand over fist, given lack of significant competitor for their niche customers. Also - and my main gripe - given they continue to waffle on abo
    1 point
  26. I made an account just to say my thanks. Same issues as everyone else here, lights went off suddenly, checked the specified diode, it was indeed faulty. Replaced said diode and everything works again! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
    1 point
  27. Hi Leon. Thanks for that. Yes that drum spider is seriously corroded and cracked. That means as the drum revolved there would be movement of the drum on the shaft. The large marks show that with certain loads the back of the drum has been catching on the outer tub and should have been making metallic scraping noises. Just make sure you follow the advice in my following articles to try and prevent your new washing machine from suffering the same fate (if lucky enough to last that long) as the corrosion is associated with grease, slime and limescale build up - Washing machine smells
    1 point
  28. Following up on this - mine did it in April, and then stopped, and has been sporadically doing it the last week. Hubby pressed the delay time button whilst it was doing it, and no more beeping! No idea why that fixed it, but it has.
    1 point
  29. Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
    1 point
  30. Just a few extra thoughts just in case they are helpful. According to the error information I have on Bosch washing machines (which is far from up-to-date) there should allow about 6 minutes to drain, and also about 6 minutes to fill. So if there is an error where the washing machine doesn't detect it has taken the correct amount of water in, or doesn't detect that it has pumped the waterway successfully it should have tried to do so for around 6 minutes before aborting. Also most faults should produce some sort of an error code. There should normally also attempt to start the motor 8 times
    1 point
  31. Hello Andy. Thanks for the informative post. I caught your reply by sheer chance today. I've finally been refunded for the Kenwood and LG machines I purchased. However, I've been left with a massive phone bill thanks to amount of calls I had to make to the Currys Team KnowHow helpline. I only make about a tenner's worth of calls per quarter, but my next bill is going to be about £130 in calls plus BT's line rental charge. I'm going to try to claw some of it back from Currys. I don't whether it's even possible, but I'm going to try. I ended up seeing my GP because of the stress of having to
    1 point
  32. Sorted! decided to buy a pcb so took it out of panel and curiosity got the better of me so plugged it back in and appart from getting a lot more lights but not the door switch light; then realised i was holding it upside down. Turned it around, pressed correct button and bingo we have a working washing machine - till next time! thanks for the encouragement if nowt else, appreciated.
    1 point
  33. In my experience most quick washes are a waste of time. They sound good but they simply don't work unless what you're washing simply needs a good hot rinse
    1 point
  34. Yes 2 items is likely to be under loaded. Especially in a 7Kg drum. Depending on how heavy they are when wet it's very possible the machine wouldn't spin them because it wouldn't be able to balance them. The same load can potentially sometimes balance ok and sometimes not due to the random nature of how they gather and fall together in the drum. It's possible for a fault to be intermittent if something (like a small button) was jammed inside the drain hose or the connector at the u-bend. It can swivel and act like a butterfly valve. However, if this was the case then when the washing mac
    1 point
  35. Hi all - well, here's an update. I managed to reset it and so got the display showing again. But, it still wouldn't work. So I called out Bosch, paid my £99 and engineer took and look and fixed it by replacing the brushes. Brushes cost £25, so all in £124. So for me that solved the problem.
    1 point
  36. Hi, the only reason is to save money on screws, and presumably it makes assembling on the production line easier and quicker. It might not sound much, but if you can save on the cost of about 20 large screws on every washing machine you can save a significant cost when you make millions a year. The only other possible "advantage" is that they don't have to store and stock any of the parts inside the outer drum as spare parts because you only sell the whole thing. I would imagine that saves manufactures much more money than the savings in screws. There's no advantage to customers unless by any
    1 point
  37. Error F09 on Hotpoint washing machines usually means "set up error" - "incorrect or faulty Eeprom" which is the main chip. I would not get involved in buying and fitting a PCB. Many of them have to be programmed and you may need software to do it. You could try sending it to a specialist in repairing and reconditioning them like QER but only if you are determined to try and get it fixed.
    1 point
  38. Ok, hopefully not famous last words, but problem solved I think. It turned out to be a bit of a mixture of 2) and 3) above. The actual water outlet pipes from the drump to the pump to the drain hose were clear, but there is another pipe connected to the filter/pump housing on this washer. It goes from the top front left corner of the filter housing up the left hand side of the machine to a Y shaped junction on the left of the soap dispenser drawer. This pipe was full of crud - hair, soap scum, etc, etc. and pretty much blocked. I think that at least one of the jobs of this pipe is to act as
    1 point
  39. fair enough. ive just taken delivery of a samsung this am so i'll see how it goes....thanks fro your time.
    1 point
  40. Many thanks for your reply. I had read something about a pump that circulates water through 'some' of the cycles and not others - which seems to tie with the randomness of the noise. Either that or like you say an obstruction somewhere. Listening to the noise again it appears that the noise is coming from the bottom of the machine on the right hand side near the front. I've opened the door and spun the drum by hand, and I can't hear any strange noises at all. There's a little movement in the drum but it seems ok. Thanks again, will let you know how it goes )
    1 point
  41. Sorry, I'm a little late with this one. Bosch Varioperfect should have a button called "vario speed" or "speed perfect". This can be used on any of the cottons cycles to reduce the wash time to around 1 hour - 1 hour 20 mins. Your folks should be fine using cottons 40 for clothes and cottons 60 for sheets and towels. If there's anything with, errm, unpleasant stains on, I would recommend going higher for hygiene.
    1 point
  42. Siemens are actually about to pull out of the domestic appliance market, so their name won't be appearing on white goods anymore in the not so distant future. Bosch and Neff will continue to appear. I would certainly agree that the quality won't be as good. Every manufacturer has cut back to save on costs. But Neff, Bosch and Siemens machines, despite this, are still held in quite a high regard on the market. I guess in proportion with all the other manufacturers also dropping the quality, they're still a high end brand and have held the same spot in the (now lower quality) market.
    1 point
  43. Washing machine motors are controlled by a board. They have to be. If you take any washing machine motor and put pure uncontrolled voltage into it, it will spin like a jet turbine. I've seen this with the sensor on the motor shaft removed. This sensor reports back to the control board the revs of the shaft, so the power can be adjusted accordingly. It doesn't just give the same set voltage everytime the machine spins or washes, because it simply wouldn't work. A full drum is not going to spin at the same speed as an empty drum unless power can be increased. The motor will be turning at near en
    1 point
  44. The way they get the extra speeds is often very simple and costs them very little, but they charge a premium price for them. Very often it's done electronically but often also have a different sized drum pulley to help. It's hard to know if the motor is genuinely going to run at the full speed because it may need a different control module too but if the drum is turning obviously faster it may not be good for delicate items requiring reduced agitation.
    1 point
  45. Hi Mac, Don't worry, I'm not laughing. It wouldn't have been my first choice, but it sounds like you got a good deal and it's all relative. The thing to remember is that it's not just reliability that you pay extra for. A Miele will wash, rinse and spin more effectively that the Hotpoint. It will also be more reliable, quieter and, in my experience, more time efficient. With regards to washing full loads on quick, I wouldn't advise it. The machine isn't programmed to fill with enough water on those cycles to wash full loads, so you could end up with clothes that aren't washed properly and ha
    1 point
  46. Hey, I'm 24 and I remember getting things like the iron, vacuum and the TV repaired. My Mum borrowed my X1.1 when her Panasonic gave up the ghost and she also found it too heavy. She now has a Sebo Felix, which is a tad lighter and a bit more versatile to use, but equally as good. She's perfectly happy with that.
    1 point
  47. Turned out to be a broken wire in the wiring harness between the control board and the motor... sigh
    1 point
  48. Thanks very much for that Andy, I'll look into what you suggest.
    1 point
  49. Thank you again. I've printed out your guide and will go through it with my plumber in the morning. Hopefully this will sort it out. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, thank you for your help. TH
    1 point

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