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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    3 points
  2. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  3. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  4. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  5. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  6. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    2 points
  7. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  8. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  9. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  10. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  11. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  12. Andy you were correct, it was a small screw like object. Looks like I will have to be more accurate next time. How can I donate you some money for a beer? You saved me quite a lot of money.
    1 point
  13. Again many thanks to bob12241! I had this same issue with my Beko 3 years old WDR7543121B with the mother board number G09, the machine didn't turned / power on and after testing D7 that was where the problem was! Saved me quite a few £££'s
    1 point
  14. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  15. Hi thanks Andy it has been noisy for a wee while.so probably better off buying new ,this one ows us nothing.
    1 point
  16. Much gratitude to bob12241 and jonboyuk for taking the time to write these instructions. My 4 year old Beko had precisely this problem and replacing the D7 diode with a 'STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying Diode 100V 2A' did the trick! Now I just need to fix the issue with the dryer that cuts out after a minute or two!
    1 point
  17. But you narrowed it down to 3 things... plus I knew I could send the PCB back if I fitted it carefully and it didn't work So it was an easy thing to try. Thanks again.
    1 point
  18. New PCB seems to have fixed it. This would have been a very expensive gamble if not for your advice! Thank you for that.
    1 point
  19. Ok, that is clear now. Thank you for your answer.
    1 point
  20. Sept 3rd 2020. Another big thanks to Bob, £3.45 for ten diodes from RS with free postage. I will be giving a donation to a NHS based charity. thanks again Allan
    1 point
  21. Hi. I might be misunderstanding but it sounds like the pump impeller which if it’s come off the shaft will mean the pump will no longer pump water?
    1 point
  22. Thanks for your quick response, Andy. I have taken the machine apart and split the outer tub to find a melted lump of rubber/plastic jamming between the inner drum and the outer tub. Also there are serious rub/melted plastic/burn marks inside the bottom of the rear outer tub. Looks like the inner steel drum has been rubbing around on it for quite a while. Not sure what the initial cause was but I too suspect overloading - she who must be obeyed disagrees as it is she who does the laundry (no, I'm not a chauvinist, we just split the chores!). The cost of replacement parts is between 3 and 4 hun
    1 point
  23. I also had the same problem, the machine stopped dead in the middle of a cycle, I found this thread and I am delighted to say that on Saturday we swapped out the D7 and the machine sprang back to life. Thanks for posting the solution bob12241 and thanks to jonboyuk for your step by step guide as we have the exact same model. Saved me around £350 and I now know how to do a spot of soldering.
    1 point
  24. Hi Bob12241 and Jonboyuk..... I just wanted to pass on my thanks for all I have read thus far.. After returning home from a night shift to my frantic but lovely wife this morning, informing me that our unit WDIR 7543101 - Washer/Dryer had failed i almost passed out. I was looking at having to purchase a new unit until I read what you Bob started and jonboyuk finished. I have ordered the diodes and you guys have given me the confidence to at least try this solution first so thank you again guys. Regards Craig
    1 point
  25. Thanks - that makes sense. I've ordered a new seal and I'll investigate downstream if the new seal doesn't fix the leak. Very grateful for your advice.
    1 point
  26. And I also need to correct the guesswork in the latter part of this thread - at some point, after looking at another's user olde Miele, it appeared to be the case that the heater fan in his model was located in the bottom of the washer/dryer. Mistake - in the case of the WT2780 the heater fan is definitely on the top of the machine, though a duct connects this fan to something at the bottom of the machine, but not sure what....
    1 point
  27. Hi Andy. For me washing machines are just too functional and unreliable, and don't last long enough to justify spending obscene amounts on one
    1 point
  28. Hi Leon. Thanks for that. Yes that drum spider is seriously corroded and cracked. That means as the drum revolved there would be movement of the drum on the shaft. The large marks show that with certain loads the back of the drum has been catching on the outer tub and should have been making metallic scraping noises. Just make sure you follow the advice in my following articles to try and prevent your new washing machine from suffering the same fate (if lucky enough to last that long) as the corrosion is associated with grease, slime and limescale build up - Washing machine smells
    1 point
  29. Hello Andy. Sorry I didn't pay much attention to this as it's tumble dryers and it's only supposed to be washing machine forums. I have thought about opening it up to other appliances but I like the fact that it specialises in washing machines and it's enough work for me just dealing with washing machines :-) some tumble dryers have different settings for different types of dryness. Our tumble dryer for example allows you to set options for cupboard dry or extra dry for example. If anything I would expect a vented dryer to be a bit more efficient. Also there is a problem when mixing diffe
    1 point
  30. Just to provide an update, I had a visit from the Samsung engineer and after checking over the machine at the back, he confirmed that the motor is faulty and needs to be totally replaced. There's an issue with the magnets inside the motor itself which was causing the terrible noise
    1 point
  31. Seems to be an issue with hotppint dryers..mine is just under 2 years old..had to have a new belt on recently and now this exact same thing..the sensor strip..it's still screwed in but the other end has just come off..it twisted around the washing ripping some of the clothes attached to it..it was a mangled mess..and pushed on the door that much it popped open from the force of the mangled clothes pushing against it.. I wish I'd kept my old hotpoint dryer and had the fix on it when they were being recalled for fire hazard..my old 1 was 6 years old and not a problem with it..I just feel th
    1 point
  32. Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob
    1 point
  33. hello, Thank you so much for sharing this helpful information, it helped me alot Thanks and regards.:)
    1 point
  34. Same mistake here. I got it "semi-easily" out by screwing a large long screw through the rubber in the middle and then pulling out from the screw. The rubber came out with the screw quite easily and then the whole heater came out. Hope it helps.
    1 point
  35. Hi All I have just received a reply from Beko regarding the problem, their reply is as follows:- Dear Mr ******, Thank you for your Email. I was sorry to hear of this issue with your BEKO washer dryer and glad you were able to resolve it in such a cost effective way. Your comments regarding the design of the circuit board have been passed to our technical department to feed back to the factory. Please accept my apologies for the inconvenience this has caused. Kind Regards, Kind Regards, ****** ******** Customer Service advisor
    1 point
  36. Thanks for the help Andy, much appreciated!
    1 point
  37. Hi remove rear cover consisting of about 6 screws this opens most of the rear. The board is inside a black box on the right hand side near the bottom. You will have to jiggle it about to get it through the rear opening. If I remember it correctly I had to lower it down then thread under pipes and stuff also had to cut a couple of cable ties that held the loom to the chassis. Hope that helps. Regards Rob
    1 point
  38. That’s interesting. Those that don’t know (!) have all suggested that I check voltage as well. I have a new element on order and when it’s fitted I will post if it all works alright.
    1 point
  39. Thanks bob12241. Second time ours went since buying it over three years ago. Took BEKO three weeks to source replacement PCB and make the repair. This time it was out of warranty so I feared the worst but your fix had us back up and running the next day.
    1 point
  40. Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
    1 point
  41. I kept pressing various buttons just to get the cycle going but it was stuck either on draining the water or just turning and it must have gone on for about two hours before I gave in and turned it off. Selected the fast wash hoping this would cure it but even that went on for over an hour ... I am buying a new washing machine, I think I just about had enough of Hotpoint.
    1 point
  42. Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
    1 point
  43. I finally got the heating element replace and the machine is now working fine.
    1 point
  44. I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area
    1 point
  45. I think you may have just saved my sanity! I've tried everything, cleaned it the drawer, made sure there were no kinks in the hose, cleaned the filter, tried it on different wash settings. It's been doing this for a year, manual says nothing on it! Thought maybe it was an uneven load warning. It does it on different stages of the cycle so just couldn't work it out. I've just pressed the delay button and voila! No beeping. How did you know how to solve it? And why does this solve it?!
    1 point
  46. As a follow up to this I have had an engineer out to my machine. The bearings went and he came and fitted a whole new drum - it is now washing much more quietly and spinning better - but the beeping persisted. In fact it had progressed to a series of 3, 4, 5 or 7 beeps, at various stages in the wash. I rang Hotpoint and asked them what this meant but was told the only answer was to have the engineer back. I was a bit reluctant to do that as it was performing fine - surely someone there must know if they were error codes - but no. Engineer duly came back yesterday, ran the diagnostics and s
    1 point
  47. Many thanks to bob12241 I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2 Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash.
    1 point
  48. It's to do with water pressure,we had water off other day,done wash today it was beeping,so turned tap a little it has now stopped.
    1 point
  49. Got new set of brushes this morning and put the motor back together this PM... ..... tests complete.... all working again. Thanks for the info Andy, much appreciate the help.
    1 point

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