Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/02/12 in all areas

  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    5 points
  2. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  3. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  6. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  7. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    2 points
  8. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  9. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  10. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  11. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  12. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  13. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    2 points
  14. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  15. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  16. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  17. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  18. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  19. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  20. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  21. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  22. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  23. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  24. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  25. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  26. Much gratitude to bob12241 and jonboyuk for taking the time to write these instructions. My 4 year old Beko had precisely this problem and replacing the D7 diode with a 'STPS2H100 Schottky Rectifying Diode 100V 2A' did the trick! Now I just need to fix the issue with the dryer that cuts out after a minute or two!
    1 point
  27. Hi Andy i saw this article Regarding the pcb failure, when you do replace pcb you have to buy the programmer on top of that and it is not worth it, as the pcb will Be around £100 and the pcb reader will be around £150 and for myself diy it is not worth it. i might as buy another Hotpoint washing machine. Thanks for your reply.
    1 point
  28. Seems to be an issue with hotppint dryers..mine is just under 2 years old..had to have a new belt on recently and now this exact same thing..the sensor strip..it's still screwed in but the other end has just come off..it twisted around the washing ripping some of the clothes attached to it..it was a mangled mess..and pushed on the door that much it popped open from the force of the mangled clothes pushing against it.. I wish I'd kept my old hotpoint dryer and had the fix on it when they were being recalled for fire hazard..my old 1 was 6 years old and not a problem with it..I just feel th
    1 point
  29. Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics
    1 point
  30. In retrospect I'm not sure this has been a complete success.... No fear. I've just found out my machine is now on the fire recall list! Everyone take note and check the news today on this subject.
    1 point
  31. Just an update - I had the fan cover off yesterday and it was absolutely clogged with compacted lint. Pulled out as much, if not more than Iain's pictures above!! Quite alarming at how compacted it was between the blades. Also took the duct cover off as much as I could and it didn't look quite as bad but annoyingly the sensors triggered yesterday during a test run. This morning I had it apart yet again and cleaned up the duct (where the sensors are specifically) and also ran the "Fluff Clean" cycle on cold, which admittedly I had probably not ran anywhere near as often enough previously (knowi
    1 point
  32. Thanks Andy I'll do some more investigations today, I'll let you know what I find.
    1 point
  33. Thanks for the advice. I will look for a new one immediately.
    1 point
  34. Thanks mate, I managed to pull the heating element out, in about 30 minutes
    1 point
  35. Thanks for the reply Andy, sorry I didn't see it before so have now changed my settings so I see replies immediately. I managed to get another board this week and fitted it this morning. This second board is behaving exactly the same. pump out fine, drying fine, put it on a wash cycle and after a minute error F-07 pops up and the dryer fan comes on. Only thing to do is switch off at the mains. As before only 140v at the water heater. So, either both replacement boards have the same problem, or something else is at fault. Hmm I decided to retest the water heater element agai
    1 point
  36. Yes the main PCB, not the control panel. Exactly when does it produce the error? That may provide a clue. Put it on a 40 degree cottons wash and write down everything it does, and time everything up until the error. For example when the error triggers what exactly was it doing? Was it 10 mins into a wash and turning the drum back and forth, or was it 40 mins in and draining the water away? Could you hear the water heating up?
    1 point
  37. That's remarkable. I would never have expected superglue to hold under the stresses and strains of a bouncing drum and door seal. I used to use a bicycle tyre repair kit. With great success. I used to peel off the door seal and fix it to the back so it wouldn't be exposed to all the water. I'd roughen up the area with the supplied sandpaper and fit a large patch to it. Worked very well. Of course I always replaced the door seal as a first choice but sometimes the customer couldn't afford a new seal or it was decided a temporary repair would be OK.
    1 point
  38. Thank you Andy, I going to check the all connections and PCB. A new hope Regards Laxi
    1 point
  39. just a thought , have you removed the rubber washing machine water inlet hose and tried to clean out the inlet filter (a small round plastic mesh filter) maybe there is dirt/rust/limescale on the filters and its siphoning somehow back up to the drinking water tap? - i have known some machine manufacturers use metal filers and they have rusted - if you come across one of them see if you can change it to a plastic filter
    1 point
  40. I went from a 5kg Bosch to this Kenwood 7kg machine so the larger drum capacity is certainly welcome, but my thinking was wrong - I was loading the machine with same amount of clothes that I loaded my old machine with. And that seems to have upset the overly sensitive load balancing sensor. I live on my own, and I was actually going to go for the 8kg model at one point - thankfully I didn't. I've since adjusted my laundry routine so that I do fewer larger loads. The long wash times definitely take some getting used to (I don't wash below 60 degrees), but since I'm doing fewer washes, I guess i
    1 point
  41. Thanks Andy! It works fine from start to finish on a cold wash but if you put a wash with any temperature it fills to the bottom of the door and then its lights out. I took apart the display to test components on the PCB last night and I found three diodes working correctly (allowing current one direct but not in the other) and three not working correctly (allowing current in both directions) testing with a multimeter. I've ordered replacements and will replace these by the end of the week, hopefully this is the problem! I'll keep you updated Thanks again for the reply
    1 point
  42. Thanks for your help that's the way I fitted the seal in the end and all seems fine.
    1 point
  43. Nice. £20 on parts, half an hour on knees. 1 load done and the backlog going down! Thanks for your advice.
    1 point
  44. Yes, I cannot overstate how much better a Miele washing machine is to everybody else's. A Miele washing machine is currently very close to the build quality of washing machines from 20 or 30 years back. The rest are just playing at it in comparison. Buying a Miele is not a panacea because they are much more expensive, and if they do need repairs in the future they can be very expensive too. However, I have had a Miele washing machine for the last 8 years and it still sounds and performs as new, it has never given a single problem, and I still expect it to last at least another 8 years. If you
    1 point
  45. Thanks, did as you said, tipped it forward... balanced it very precariously on two little tubs of baking soda lol (all I had to hand), then I could see under to see how it popped back in. Using the handle end of a plastic washing up brush I was able to pry the piece back into place (some plastic nodules to hold it into place were preventing it from going back into place as the piece had been pulled too far out of situ). Hey presto! Good as new. Thanks again.
    1 point
  46. Is the garage heated at all? Freezing weather, then warm summers can take its toll on wet rubber.
    1 point
  47. Hi, there. Thank you very much for the advice, that's really helpful. I expect there may still be some vibration with the Bosch as with most machines because of the flooring we have but I think I would be more comfortable with a Bosch if I can't stretch to a Miele. I've been reading up on anti-vibration pads as well just in case. Many thanks again.
    1 point
  48. Hoover used to fit the same module or programmer to 800, 1100, and 1200 spin machines and the same motor. Instructions were to cut this link for 1200, cut this one for 1300 etc. The faster spin machines had a smaller drum pulley too.
    1 point
  49. Thanks for you advice i'll try new ones.
    1 point
  50. The door seal problem is common, it's the way they are designed and there's nothing you can do. Some are better/worse than others but there has to be a surplus of door gasket which lets water accumulate so that when on spin it doesn't tear or get pulled off. Basically the door seals are oversized in that area to allow movement on spin. The small plastic ball in the sump hose is there to seal off the sump hose and prevent detergent getting into the sump and being wasted. They definitely aren't essential and were only invented about 15 years ago. I wouldn't think it necessary to remove it as i
    1 point

Book your Repair

Book washing machine & appliance repairs

Order your Spares

Ransom Spares is a family company with over 1 million white goods appliance spare parts for sale. Next day delivery available, friendly company with over 5000 reviews on Trust Pilot

Price match promise: "If you find the exact same part or accessory elsewhere for cheaper, we’ll not only match it, we’ll beat it!" -

Buy your appliance spare part



×
×
  • Create New...