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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    3 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  6. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  7. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  8. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  9. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  10. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  11. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  12. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  13. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  14. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    2 points
  15. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  16. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  17. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  18. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  19. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  20. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  21. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  22. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  23. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  24. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  25. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  26. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  27. Hi Andy, I had to admit defeat with a family of four and no washing machine, and call in the local dealer where we bought the machine..they diagnosed a cracked spindle, base on play between the inner and outer drum..I guess this is where experience comes in - I didn't think it was excessive, but the engineer thought it was. Thanks again, very much appreciate your help. I did enjoy the journey anyway. I think I'll strip my machine down for parts, as there does seem to be a market on eBay for motors, main boards, etc
    1 point
  28. Just to provide an update, I had a visit from the Samsung engineer and after checking over the machine at the back, he confirmed that the motor is faulty and needs to be totally replaced. There's an issue with the magnets inside the motor itself which was causing the terrible noise
    1 point
  29. Hi, Firstly, may I say I realise this is a rather old thread. But since I have only just discovered a problem with the little black rubber hose that is connected to waste pipe junction toward top of Beko Washing machine where waste pipe exits washer, perhaps this may help others. Background. Periodically we noticed water on tiled floor during/after washing large loads and occasionally loads were not successfully spun. This occurred earlier today, Water all over floor and a soggy load of washing. However, on this occasion as my wife was discovering this there was a loud crack/bang and
    1 point
  30. Hi Andy I followed your steps above I then got my camera phone and took a video around the pipe. It seems i was 3 mm out and the marker marks helped me locate the exact position along with your link above. I can successfully confirm the Leak has stopped. So now I need to re-run through the electrical tips above and ensure its not a neural problem before a new element is ordered. Many Thanks
    1 point
  31. I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I sold
    1 point
  32. I believe Beko have at least two models with this sort of feature
    1 point
  33. Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any
    1 point
  34. Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.
    1 point
  35. Whoops, went to read your 'Washing Machine won't spin' article after that reply - very eye-opening, a great explainer (and glad to see that it comes up top in Google searches). As much as I found my experience with Miele washer-dryers frustrating (very expensive, temperamental electronics, and as one reviewer suggested 'over-engineered'), if I ever needed just a washing machine then they would be worth considering if only for the ability to wash small loads (assuming that lower priced models such as the WDB038WPS (£600) are built to the same internal mechanical standards as the pricier mo
    1 point
  36. Yes it's strange. Is the mark by any chance the same size as one of the holes in the drum? The first thing I would do is put the washing machine on a boil wash or at least 60 degrees. Put in some detergent but no laundry. You might also want to try some of the specially designed washing machine cleaning products. The closest article I have is about rust spots on clothes after washing but I don't know if they are rust spots or not.
    1 point
  37. Good luck with your problem. The power control box is in the base of the machine, accessible through the rear panel. You can't really miss it: a black plastic box with several wiring looms connected into it with multipin connectors. I dismantled the box to get at the board to see if it was likely the source of the problem.
    1 point
  38. Has anyone ever explained the error E 33 that you've been getting? If it isn't mentioned in the instruction manual then it doesn't sound like an error that is triggered because the washing machine isn't level. If that was the case it would definitely be in the instruction manual. So if it isn't in the instruction manual, that strongly implies that it is a fault that needs an engineer and is not related to the washing machine being level of being on a suspended floor. If that is the case then it implies that there is so far on diagnosed fault on the machine. If your washing machine is
    1 point
  39. It's the same for me. Everything is fine except the stuck at the end. When it was operating properly, at the end of the cycle it was a "clank" coming from the door opening and then the "beep" for the end of the cycle. Now, there are 3 "clanks" at the end, like it is trying to open the door 3 times, and it gets stuck.
    1 point
  40. It took me a while to get round to fixing this but I bought a new pump / housing unit, replaced this and is now quiet! Thanks for your help & advice :-)
    1 point
  41. thanks andy it was the solenoid valve after all that was the problem . i replace it before so i thought that was not the problem . so i put another one in and worked. maybe it had dirt in it and half work thanks for help
    1 point
  42. The commutator should be very smooth. Check out my article here about sparking problems after fitting new carbon brushes which I've just slightly amended to be more informative about raised comm bars.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for that. I think it's the scrap heap then because it sound expensive. Mind you, I've kicked up such a fuss with Hotpoint about their lack of Live Chat, inability to contact their help line and lack of any comprehensible information and inability to answer my simple query on Facebook that they've agreed to send a technician free of charge to evaluate the problem and estimate a repair cost. Seems that it pays to get shirty sometimes.
    1 point
  44. Thanks, I will try and report BWs F
    1 point
  45. It's hard to say because washing machines these days try to use as little water as possible. Many have circulation pumps or design the drum paddles to scoop up water so that water is constantly sprinkling down on laundry to emulate a shower v bath. If you only drained with a jug there will be up to twice as much water still inside the machine under the drum and in the sump hose (unless you mean you let it pump out into a jug a bit at a time).
    1 point
  46. It's a long shot but worth checking out, if it sees to fill with water a lot more often than you;d expect or lots of times for short bursts make sure it isn't siphoning Fills and empties at same time
    1 point
  47. Hello and thanks, it's all done by just me The kind of damage you report is pretty common, and usually caused by an object between the tub and the drum. It's usually coins, but all sorts of things get stuck in there including nails and screws. It's possible for the damage to have happened when you used it last and you wouldn't necessarily notice it but when it happened there would have been some unsettling noises, so if you were in the same room and didn't hear anything maybe not. Any damage as described would only happen on spin as the object was tossed around at speed. Therefore no
    1 point
  48. Hey, I thought i would post my out come to help others. Having spent all day today taking my machine apart it is quite clear my problem was leaking bearings, letting by black grease which is finding its way in to the wash. The spare parts seem to be out £40 but given the age and fiddillyness of putting it all back together and no gaurentee of it not leaking i have decided to get a new one. Thanks Andy Washerhelp - a great site! Spoon Washer :-)
    1 point

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