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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear
    3 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  4. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  5. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  6. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  7. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  8. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  9. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  10. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  11. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  12. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  13. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  14. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them
    2 points
  15. Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does re
    2 points
  16. Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
    2 points
  17. Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
    2 points
  18. Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
    2 points
  19. I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (th
    2 points
  20. Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
    2 points
  21. Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
    2 points
  22. Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. Y
    2 points
  23. Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
    2 points
  24. does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
    2 points
  25. I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a
    2 points
  26. Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
    2 points
  27. Nice album Curses-upon- Beko, Only one thing I feel I should point out and that is when testing a diode in circuit you can get confusing readings, if readings are not 100% in fault then it is advisable to de-solder 1 leg and test, thus isolating it from other components. Your readings definitely gave it as dead, whereas mine were not 100%,this affected another diode readings close by (D6).
    1 point
  28. What a FANTASTIC thread. I'm assuming my washer drier has the same issue and I'm taking it apart as I post. I get very cynical about stuff like this. Do diodes usually blow or could it be a case of Beko usings cheap/crap ones on purpose to get people to sign up to their monthly insurance plans?
    1 point
  29. Hi there, would just like to say a big ' Thank You' to bob12241 for his Beko washer/dryer 'Diode' fix, and thanks also to jonboyuk for the extra photos provided and info., the D7 diode fix worked a treat on our model WDR7543121S, sourced the part on a well known auction site in the end to enable a quicker delivery. Thanks again bob12241, your efforts and information have helped to keep washing machine costs for so many people. Kind Regards Tony
    1 point
  30. Well, finally got a warranty repair on this (and it might be that the dryer system for the WT2780 is different from older models such as the WT945). Shall post details under a new title, so easier to find for anyone else pulling their hair out.
    1 point
  31. You can take the screws off the top if the fan unit and the top will move far enough to access the fan to remove the lint, but it is very fiddly and time consuming. We did this, but a couple of months later the sensor has tripped again.
    1 point
  32. Hi Rob, same fault on my WDR7543121B - same PCB as your model, many thanks for the fault find
    1 point
  33. It's a sensor strip which is screwed to the inside of the front air duct, the electrical terminal at the end of the strip fits through the duct and attaches to a spade connector
    1 point
  34. Yes the only way the drum can damage the outer drums like that is if it has come forward but it should be held very tightly in place by the drum pulley at the back. The only other thing that could technically cause it as if somehow something got stuck between the two drums and dragged all the way around it.
    1 point
  35. Mine is now doing this too. No error messages.. had it years and it has never done it before.. but it is beeping during the wash cycle.. I have run a cleaner through it and it seems to have stopped ?? Will see.. Did anyone ever get to the bottom of it ?
    1 point
  36. Hi Andy and thanks for the response. I traced the cables back to the circuit board from the valves and worked my way back from there. They are controlled by a bank of Triac's and MOV's triggered from the main microcontroller. One of the triacs had gone bad, i isolated this just using a basic diode check function on a multimeter which indicated that there was no voltage drop across the component. Replaced with a new triac (Z0107NA if anyone is interested) and all is well again! Its not something i would recommend unless you have experience with soldering electronic
    1 point
  37. It depends on if the drum bearings have gone or not. If the drum has come loose or can be moved up and down it would account for it catching on the door seal. But if the door seal has just become slightly twisted and dislodged then the fault may just need the door seal replacing or refitting. Also check the suspension to make sure the drum isn't twisted and is held centrally inside the cabinet. If one of the suspension legs has become damaged and the drum has twisted that might also account for the door seal catching.
    1 point
  38. Thanks for that. I came to the conclusion the code meant little. I've had S/H parts from Ebay so little expense incurred yet. I'll post again if I find it - it's a challenge.
    1 point
  39. just a thought , have you removed the rubber washing machine water inlet hose and tried to clean out the inlet filter (a small round plastic mesh filter) maybe there is dirt/rust/limescale on the filters and its siphoning somehow back up to the drinking water tap? - i have known some machine manufacturers use metal filers and they have rusted - if you come across one of them see if you can change it to a plastic filter
    1 point
  40. I found a broken cable on motor, simple fix. its the second time this has happened
    1 point
  41. These answers are fantastic! It's exactly what I was looking for! I've been having a look around and I found this washing machine that's not badly priced at under £200. It's nothing fancy, but what do you think? From what I've seen, Indesit seem to do a good range at a range of prices, so I can still get a good one but rather cheaply! I think that for a first one, I'm not looking for an overly complicated gadgety one, only one that I can just put the washload in, press a button or two and BAM, it starts working, nothing overly complicated!
    1 point
  42. Hello Andy, I must admit that the few people I asked weren't professional washing-machine engineers. But I'm leaning towards it being the drum bearings based on everything I have heard and read. I have since reduced the speed down to 700 and reduced the number of items I throw in per wash to compensate for the reduced final spin speed. Hopefully I'll be able to drag a few more months out of it at least. The info you posted about how modern washers worker is reassuring. I've not had any experiences with newer "energy efficient" machines as my current Bosch is only the second washer-dr
    1 point
  43. I would expect water to come into the condenser chamber as soon as the dry cycle started. 30 - 40 minutes in seems very late to me. I can't say for sure but the ones I've repaired all set the water solenoid running straight away.
    1 point
  44. Error F09 on Hotpoint washing machines usually means "set up error" - "incorrect or faulty Eeprom" which is the main chip. I would not get involved in buying and fitting a PCB. Many of them have to be programmed and you may need software to do it. You could try sending it to a specialist in repairing and reconditioning them like QER but only if you are determined to try and get it fixed.
    1 point
  45. Hi again Andy, The brushes arrived today, two days earlier than expected. Success it works!!! A bit fiddly getting the brushes in bet well worth the effort. I usually do take photos but in the heat of the moment when struggling with the motor removal I lost it and started pulling off wires. All good now and thanks for the help/tips. John
    1 point
  46. Hoover used to fit the same module or programmer to 800, 1100, and 1200 spin machines and the same motor. Instructions were to cut this link for 1200, cut this one for 1300 etc. The faster spin machines had a smaller drum pulley too.
    1 point
  47. thanks.Your message helped me find the manual number. after hours of searching I still could not get the user guide. I still don't know what the icons refer to.
    1 point
  48. I wouldn't touch anything made by Hoover/Candy or Hotpoint/Indesit with a barge pole. If I was on a budget and buying a new machine, I'd get a mid-high end Beko for between £250 and £350. Miele, Beko, Bosch/Siemens and (at a push) AEG are the only brands I'd consider owning. I agree with your point above, Andy. Quick washing does not wash effectively. And not to be rude, but anybody who washes bedding, towels or underwear on a quick wash really needs to rethink their washing habbits.
    1 point
  49. Well, finally I found out that the tacho magnet is machine pressed onto the armature and therefore is only supplied with the motor. Even if it would be available as a spare, honestly it would be very difficult to replace. I've tried to take the whole thing off - without success. Anyway, thanks much for your advice. I really appreciate that. At least I know what to do. Daniel
    1 point

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