Leaderboard

Fixed it! I found a relay in the pcb with a loose connection - quick solder was all it took (once I'd found the problem)

Just wanted to come back and say that worked a treat. Replaced the solenoids and fixed issue. Thanks for the help.

Ok, that's smart. Yes pump is running. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TsgtDfHQBHCjUC9e9

Cheers Andy, Response from Miele below. Seems strange that this is not clearly explained on their website, and that they have so many different versions of the same machine at the same price! Thanks

Hello. The noise sounds like either carbon brushes or the raised segment. To be perfectly honest if an amateur has a raised segment this means it is loose and I would not keep using it. The motor could burn out at any time. Take the brushes out and see if they are damaged. A raised segment will usually damage carbon brushes too. With the brushes out place your finger on the commutator and slowly turn it round. If one segment is definitely raised each revolution then the motor is shocked and it needs replacing. Back in the day we used to just replace the armature which was extremely easy these

Just wanted to close the loop on this: took me a while to get parts (LG 5220FR2075L & 5220FR2006H) and arrange for repair help, but replacing the two water inlet control valves above did solve the problem. The leak was on the cold side, but it made sense once all the trouble had been gone through to unstack the dryer and open up the washer to replace both valves. Thanks.

Hello there. If the thermal cutout switch had gone the motor would definitely not run at all it's a complete one-shot fuse that cuts power to the motor. If the motor appears to run okay for the very short time that it turns, that is it is not sparking excessively, then a common cause of the motor only turning once or twice and then stopping is either a faulty connection somewhere or a problem with the control module electronics. I would definitely check carefully the motor plug at the end of the wiring harness that plugs into the motor. Try to pull each connector away out of the motor plu

Disassembly had to wait to the weekend and it wasn’t until the drum was removed did the issue make itself clear. Corroded Spider. Attached photo for reference. I’m still slightly puzzled that it wasn’t more obvious before taking it all apart but never mind! New parts ordered. Thanks for all the advice. Great forum.

Here are some more photos.... the first is with both the fan box and the hot air box. They do both come out fairly easily, the fan box just pushes into the back of the drum, but remember to retrieve the rubber, slightly square seal, and reseat properly. In terms of access, if you tilt the machine then the drum moves giving you access to various bolts etc without having to take too much apart. Lastly, I use little pictures and cardboard and push the screws through as I remove them so I know where they go back and in what order. Here are all the screws you need to remove to get to

Jayj, you have spured me on last night to fix my drying issue..... so I took apart the machine and cleaned out all of the dirt/fluff.... here are some photos..... There are a number of videos to open the top of the machine, but once inside, if you open up the silver box this is were the heating elements are. There are three 30torx screws holding this down, and it is also sealed. You will need some heat resistant silicon sealant (say from Halfords) to reseal. Note that it is hinged on the right hand side. You can see all the dirt/soap scum etc inside mine. To open, undo the three torx and

Very interesting - and helping to make this thread a must-read for Miele Washer Dryer owners - even newer ones, since according to my engineer (who was too discreet to admit the stuff you heard) the newer machines use the SAME system... As I mentioned, I never had any issues with my first Indesit washer/dryer 20 odd years ago (fluff filter), nor the subsequent Zanussi (no rinse out fluff option) and they did far more drying. So I think his analysis is spot on. I didn't even realise you could use the Extra Water option with Rinse Out Fluff, but now do it. And yes, I suspect the S

My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted