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  1. 2 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  2. 1 point
    bob12241 - Top work! I had the same fault, quick and easy fix with the replacement diode (although I went with the same diode rating; if it faults again I will go straight back to check D7 as my first check). A nice easy quick video on testing diodes should you require it: Thanks Joe
  3. 1 point
    Hi - I had a slight query on one of the brushes I had replaced and marked before I reassembled because it popped out when fitting . So I restripped machine I reisntalled the other way round and the problem is fixed.
  4. 1 point
    Hi Kev pics have been included in my posting as an update done a while back, if you need, get in touch I will email them to you also. Hope you find them Regards Rob
  5. 1 point
    Nice to see that people are seeing this and saving megabucks on what is possibly a design fault that is raking it in for Beko. I probably didn't post my pics as I should have done as Andy appeared to be unaware of them. Anyway all seems ok now, incidentally I had a machine engineer on to me a while back he had 3 duff pcb's, he found this problem on 2 of them. Likely for sale as refurbs now . Happy to help Regards Rob
  6. 1 point
    I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I solder it to the board, but I bet it will work as gold. Thank you very much bob, not all heroes wear capes!
  7. 1 point
    Hello. They are all different. The string thing probably just works for the specific type of door it’s demonstrated on. It wouldn’t work for most washing machines. I have an article looking at this fault but it’s just general advice Washing machine door will not open
  8. 1 point
    So Miele have decided to stop trying to fix my machine. They have refunded the cost of the power Control Unit, which clearly wasn't needed as it didn't soleve the problem, they haven't been charging labour or for the elements as weve gone through so many. They are going to take my machine away and investigate - the person we spoke to is looking for batch issues with the element and they want to test it to find out what went so wrong. On the plus side they have given me 50% off a new machine. Fed up to be spending anything on a new machine but it seems the only way forwards that guarentees being able to wash clothes!
  9. 1 point
    I fixed the washer. It was (apparantly) a dry joint on the neutral side of the circuit shown above As to that door interlock diagram I now understand that between pins pins 1 & 2 is the heater element (PTC thermister) which, when reaching a certain temperature, causes a bi-metal strip to close the switch contacts between pins 2 & 3.
  10. 1 point
    Mine is now doing this too. No error messages.. had it years and it has never done it before.. but it is beeping during the wash cycle.. I have run a cleaner through it and it seems to have stopped ?? Will see.. Did anyone ever get to the bottom of it ?
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for the link, it was a very informative read!
  13. 1 point
    Hi, Many thanks for all your help. I obtained a 2nd hand control board and that has solved the problem!
  14. 1 point
    Again thanks for your help. Having a load in the drum does not seem to change things sadly. I have removed the motor and will give it a thorough inspection and if that is unsuccessful I may contact QER. Do they do any special rates for customers referred from your site?
  15. 1 point
    Check the drum pulley isn’t slightly loose. Check the condition of the belt too as they can cause funny noises. Take the belt off and spin the drum by hand from the front. Turn it slowly and lift it all the way round its circumference to feel if the drum has more give at any point indicating a possible problem with the drum spider.
  16. 1 point
    indeed - and it cannot surely be for eco / saving electricity by turning the pump motor off ? - what does a drain pump consume?, maybe 25w at most if anywhere near that? I personally think they should have left it the old original way with the pump on throughout the spin , because with centrifugal spin anyway its going the 'squeeze' all that water out anyway and it has to drain off at some time anyway so why not keep it on constantly with it spinning away anyway - i dont personally like the way it stops and start and waits until a fair amount has built up in the sump before engaging and pumping out the water.
  17. 1 point
    Hello Andy. I just came across this old topic. I'd just like to say that yes you were correct. Many of the Hotpoint washing machines do turn the pump off once they have detected that the water has gone. Historically this has never happened before and I still don't really see the sense of it. It just makes it difficult to test the pump if it only runs when water is inside. The last thing you want to do when investigating a faulty pump is to put water in the drum that might not get pumped out. I suppose an argument is that it saves wear and tear on the pump but I'm struggling to think why the manufacturer would be bothered about that when they make so much money selling replacement pumps. :-)
  18. 1 point
    June 2019 I have this E80 code coming up on my Belling Washer Dryer. I have phone Belling and their customer service cannot fine anything about this code. As my machine is still under warranty (1 week over 1yr old, I have a 2yr warranty) they are sending out an engineer. I will re post when I know what the answer is, as there does not seem to be any answers on the web. This may help anyone else, including washing machine engineers. Thanks for this site, I have been here before.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Skistones. Many thanks for the update. Yes appliance engineers have never repaired pcbs other than the odd dry joint soldering. There is no technical information for them even for the trade. However, many technical minded electronics experts have repaired their own using equivalent electronic parts. They clearly have experience and knowledge about these things that is never imparted to even the most well trained domestic appliance engineers. There is a company that specialises in repairing washing machine pcbs though, so anyone wanting to attempt that route could try contacting QER electronic repairs.
  20. 1 point
    Yes and no. I drained it and cleaned the pump filter as best I could and lo! it worked. But only once. Then same problem started again and cleaning and draining didn't work a second time. Before that I did have an engineer out who tested lots, including testing the door lock thoroughly and it was completely fine. His conclusion was that the pcb wasn't receiving the message that the door was locked, so it refused to start and unlocked again. He tested bits of the pcb but couldn't see which component was the problem. Andy - I was hoping that it might be possible to just buy new relays or components and solder them on, or at least give that a try. It's such a waste of resources to have to ditch a whole machine which is otherwise perfectly fine for the sake of a few circuitry bits. Yet it doesn't make sense either to spend £300 on a circuit board when I can buy a Miele with warranty for £120 more. This site is a great resource - thank you for all your work running it!!
  21. 1 point
    I believe Beko have at least two models with this sort of feature
  22. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  23. 1 point
    I had the same problem. It took the best part of 3 hours to get out. I tried flat knives, flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, it wouldn't budge! What eventually cracked it was picking on the weak point at the hole where the thermostat slots in. I ended up using a serated knife to cut a line through where the thermostat hole is. I was eventually able to lever the end out using a screwdriver. Nightmare. Once it was out the size of the bulge on the inside edge of the rubber showed that thing was never coming out by trying to just tease around the edge. Phew! Don't fancy doing that again for a while!
  24. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Many thanks for your response. I had wondered that myself. I've tried partially unscrewing and then pulling with pliers (and a fair amount of force) but no luck. But then looking more closely at where the "outer" cap would interface with the "inner" one, I just can't see how it would properly screw in so as to be able to pull the whole thing out. So I guess there is no special tool that I am missing? Any further thoughts much appreciated. Thanks, Nick
  25. 1 point
    Thanks for your suggestion Andy.
  26. 1 point
    I had the same issue and took the built in washing machine out of its cabinet tilted it only to find a metal protective plate underneath. So this wasn’t going to get me to the pump quickly. I then removed the front plastic cover and used adjustable pliers to remove the pipe and found amazing amount of debris. Cleaned it all out replaced everything (sliced my hand in the process!) and it all worked like a dream afterwards... thank you amazing forum!
  27. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  28. 1 point
    Hi Andy, a friend of mine came round to have a look before I splashed the cash on getting an engineer out. He managed to pull the offending item back through with his mole grips - it's all in the wrist action apparently! Did a wash and didn't sound like any harm had been done, although I can imagine that the offending brass thingy might have scoured the back of the drum casing somewhat. Hopefully will never find out. Once again, thanks for your help, I'll have to remember you next time I have a problem! Cheers Gary
  29. 1 point
    Hi Andy and Andy, Yes, I've been bitten by live caps before. After all, they are little batteries. Keep one hand behind your back is good advice. There's no visible evidence of a problem with the caps, but they can still be duff. I did drain the water out, but not enough it seems. The piece of foam that sits behind the control board housing was wet, so water getting to the board is very likely, thought the board itself was dry when I took it out.
  30. 1 point
    a lot of the time you can tell defunct caps by the way they bulge and sometime open top and sometime a bit of electrolyte leaking out of the capacitor and shorting out - but could be anything at this stage. be careful there with the board , most boards on washing machines have some huge capacitors and store some serious amount of juice even when washing machine plug has been pulled out of wall socket . and watch for live metal heatsinks as well! you can normally empty out the water in the drum with an emergency drain pipe normally next to the pop on an awful lot of machines, just take out the plug at the end of the tube and the water will eventually empty out of the drum .
  31. 1 point
    Hi Andy, The blown resistor is on the power supply part of the circuit board. So the most likely candidate for the fault is the power supply. It's a switched mode supply and I'm told by those more knowledgeable than me that when they go down it's usually the caps that are at fault. I'm also told it's so common repair kits are sold that consist entirely of replacement caps. The resistor that blew tells me there's too much current going through that part of the circuit. That the replacement also blew tells me it's not the resistor so the caps will be the next line of enquiry, followed by the other usual suspects. I fully understand engineers shying away from messing with PCBs. Repairing them is a non starter with all the surface mounted parts and chips but most, if not all, of the power supply side is workable. A circuit diagram would help in tracing the circuit and identifying voltage test points. I take your point about the motor and heater, and will check these, but I can't see how these would cause excessive current draw through that part of the circuit where the blown resistor sits. The resistors, caps, diodes, transformer and the PWM chip are what controls the voltages and that, I think, is where where the fault lies. Of course, that fault could have fried other parts of the circuit before the resistor blew, but I won't know that until I get the power supply working - if I get it working. Water is the most likely cause, as you suggest. I put the machine it on its right side following a demonstration on youtube. Unfortunately the control board sits on the right side of the machine, which I didn't know at the time as I didn't need to take the top off the machine to get to the pump. Only later did I notice in the user manual that it's recommended to lay it on its back or front, so yes, water could have gotten inside the control board housing. What was initially a simple, quick, cost free fix, has turned into a time consuming nightmare that may yet cost hundreds to put right. All because it was laid down on the wrong side. Again, thanks for the advice and suggestions.
  32. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thanks. No problem. I may contact QER as you suggest. However, if I had a circuit diagram myself I, along with much more electronics savvy friends, might be able to trace the fault more easily. I'm not being stingy, just frugal. I'm on state pension and have to do my best to fix things before I splash out on replacements. I'm guessing it's a power supply issue as it's drawing too much current through that resistor. Maybe a cap, diode or that PWM Switch. Curiously once I cleaned off the soot nothing looked untoward. Even the original blown resistor looked fine. Things can still be wrong even when they look OK, as they are in this case. Still puzzled as to why it all kicked off after I fixed then pump. I really do appreciate the free advice and help. It's not like you are being paid or anything. That replacement board that was only one digit out that I mentioned above - I have noticed that boards have different numbers depending on what year they were made so any thoughts on it?
  33. 1 point
    Update: The black sooty deposit is just that - soot. Friend suggested it was from the bushes being attracted by the magnetism in the choke. I've cleaned it all off now. Checked a few parts and that blackened resistor next to the larger blue cap had gone open circuit. Replaced it but it blew with a puff of smoke when I switched back on. And now there's no lights on at all. Back to the drawing board. Any, and all, suggestions gratefully accepted. Wouldn't want to get an expensive new board, or a new machine, when it could just be a part that needs replacing.
  34. 1 point
    Hello. Instructions on how to remove a soap dispenser drawer for cleaning are usually in the instruction manual. If you don't have it you may be able to download one from here washing machine instruction manuals That's assuming it is meant to come out, but most should be. At the end of the day it shouldn't be difficult, there's just something at the back (possibly underneath the drawer) that stops it coming all the way out and a tab or device to press to allow it to come out. Some are even cruder that that and just need gently prising out.
  35. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  36. 1 point
    Yes Andy, a lot of modern detergents actually have softener built in to them, which is stupid, especially as towels don't need softener as it inhibits their drying ability (Save on fabric softener when tumble drying). We often our towels with a short spell in the tumble dryer if they've gone hard after drying outside Also, Don’t use fabric softener on children’s sleepwear
  37. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Have drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  39. 1 point
    I have same problem, Drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  40. 1 point
    Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.
  41. 1 point
    Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry cleanser liquid to the wash cycle which will kill germs at under 40'c (allegedly) if you can get it where you live or something similar. - Dont forget to leave the door ajar after the wash and at all times if you can, it allows air to get into the drum and dry it out rather than leave it condensated and damp (which can lead to damp smell) and wipe the grey rubber door gasket dry after every wash and look for black mould on the grey door rubber gasket (sometimes if it already is bad with mould sometimes you cannot even get rid of it by cleaning and you have to have the rubber door gasket replaced or replace the machine altogether if the mould has really got in there and taken hold. Have you ever cleaned out the pump filter on your washing machine? - on most washing machines the pump filter is behind a door or facia at the bottom of the machine (the instruction booklet will say how to) sometimes if they are not cleaned they , over time, get full of gunk of undisolved washing liquid / conditioner, hair, fluff, coins and buttons, and sometimes if the filter is dirty and need cleaning a 'damp' smell can emulate from the machine, Come up from the pump filter and the smell then can come out through the drum and soap drawer. Talking of soap drawer do you take that out regularly and clean it ? most soap drawers can be removed totally from the washing machine by pushing a clip down at the rear of the soap drawer same time while pulling out the soap drawer. Clean all the undisolved washing powder and soap liquid and conditioner off the drawer insides and at the bottom of the soap drawer and rinse it well and then dry it totally before putting it back in place. Again a 'yucky' soap drawer attracts mould and can give off a pungent damp smell. - Good luck , I am sure you will eradicate it or make it smell better in the end if you do all of that .. well I hope anyway. EDIT: I have sourced the Instruction Manual for your washing machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46003/Electrolux-Ewg-12440-W.html?page=3#manual
  42. 1 point
    Hello. The leak could be running down from the back of the door seal or it could be coming from the plastic outer drum. You'd need to physically investigate and probably take off the front panel if it comes off. If the drum has gone it may well be expensive.
  43. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  44. 1 point
    Just an update - I had the fan cover off yesterday and it was absolutely clogged with compacted lint. Pulled out as much, if not more than Iain's pictures above!! Quite alarming at how compacted it was between the blades. Also took the duct cover off as much as I could and it didn't look quite as bad but annoyingly the sensors triggered yesterday during a test run. This morning I had it apart yet again and cleaned up the duct (where the sensors are specifically) and also ran the "Fluff Clean" cycle on cold, which admittedly I had probably not ran anywhere near as often enough previously (knowing what I now know) AND ran an empty wash cycle with some washing machine cleaner in. It's currently drying 1/4 of what was on the wash cycle (decent sun today so most stuff went on the line). Fingers crossed, otherwise I'm kind of out of ideas. Unless triggering and resetting the sensors so much has made them prone to trigger more easily? Is that a thing? Perhaps running the Fluff Clean cycle more often is key to solving this? It doesn't stress in the manual that it's even necessary, only to run it when drying cycles aren't working as they should.
  45. 1 point
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.

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