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  1. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  2. 1 point
    Hi Andy, a friend of mine came round to have a look before I splashed the cash on getting an engineer out. He managed to pull the offending item back through with his mole grips - it's all in the wrist action apparently! Did a wash and didn't sound like any harm had been done, although I can imagine that the offending brass thingy might have scoured the back of the drum casing somewhat. Hopefully will never find out. Once again, thanks for your help, I'll have to remember you next time I have a problem! Cheers Gary
  3. 1 point
    Hi Andy and Andy, Yes, I've been bitten by live caps before. After all, they are little batteries. Keep one hand behind your back is good advice. There's no visible evidence of a problem with the caps, but they can still be duff. I did drain the water out, but not enough it seems. The piece of foam that sits behind the control board housing was wet, so water getting to the board is very likely, thought the board itself was dry when I took it out.
  4. 1 point
    a lot of the time you can tell defunct caps by the way they bulge and sometime open top and sometime a bit of electrolyte leaking out of the capacitor and shorting out - but could be anything at this stage. be careful there with the board , most boards on washing machines have some huge capacitors and store some serious amount of juice even when washing machine plug has been pulled out of wall socket . and watch for live metal heatsinks as well! you can normally empty out the water in the drum with an emergency drain pipe normally next to the pop on an awful lot of machines, just take out the plug at the end of the tube and the water will eventually empty out of the drum .
  5. 1 point
    Hi Andy, The blown resistor is on the power supply part of the circuit board. So the most likely candidate for the fault is the power supply. It's a switched mode supply and I'm told by those more knowledgeable than me that when they go down it's usually the caps that are at fault. I'm also told it's so common repair kits are sold that consist entirely of replacement caps. The resistor that blew tells me there's too much current going through that part of the circuit. That the replacement also blew tells me it's not the resistor so the caps will be the next line of enquiry, followed by the other usual suspects. I fully understand engineers shying away from messing with PCBs. Repairing them is a non starter with all the surface mounted parts and chips but most, if not all, of the power supply side is workable. A circuit diagram would help in tracing the circuit and identifying voltage test points. I take your point about the motor and heater, and will check these, but I can't see how these would cause excessive current draw through that part of the circuit where the blown resistor sits. The resistors, caps, diodes, transformer and the PWM chip are what controls the voltages and that, I think, is where where the fault lies. Of course, that fault could have fried other parts of the circuit before the resistor blew, but I won't know that until I get the power supply working - if I get it working. Water is the most likely cause, as you suggest. I put the machine it on its right side following a demonstration on youtube. Unfortunately the control board sits on the right side of the machine, which I didn't know at the time as I didn't need to take the top off the machine to get to the pump. Only later did I notice in the user manual that it's recommended to lay it on its back or front, so yes, water could have gotten inside the control board housing. What was initially a simple, quick, cost free fix, has turned into a time consuming nightmare that may yet cost hundreds to put right. All because it was laid down on the wrong side. Again, thanks for the advice and suggestions.
  6. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thanks. No problem. I may contact QER as you suggest. However, if I had a circuit diagram myself I, along with much more electronics savvy friends, might be able to trace the fault more easily. I'm not being stingy, just frugal. I'm on state pension and have to do my best to fix things before I splash out on replacements. I'm guessing it's a power supply issue as it's drawing too much current through that resistor. Maybe a cap, diode or that PWM Switch. Curiously once I cleaned off the soot nothing looked untoward. Even the original blown resistor looked fine. Things can still be wrong even when they look OK, as they are in this case. Still puzzled as to why it all kicked off after I fixed then pump. I really do appreciate the free advice and help. It's not like you are being paid or anything. That replacement board that was only one digit out that I mentioned above - I have noticed that boards have different numbers depending on what year they were made so any thoughts on it?
  7. 1 point
    Update: The black sooty deposit is just that - soot. Friend suggested it was from the bushes being attracted by the magnetism in the choke. I've cleaned it all off now. Checked a few parts and that blackened resistor next to the larger blue cap had gone open circuit. Replaced it but it blew with a puff of smoke when I switched back on. And now there's no lights on at all. Back to the drawing board. Any, and all, suggestions gratefully accepted. Wouldn't want to get an expensive new board, or a new machine, when it could just be a part that needs replacing.
  8. 1 point
    Hello. Instructions on how to remove a soap dispenser drawer for cleaning are usually in the instruction manual. If you don't have it you may be able to download one from here washing machine instruction manuals That's assuming it is meant to come out, but most should be. At the end of the day it shouldn't be difficult, there's just something at the back (possibly underneath the drawer) that stops it coming all the way out and a tab or device to press to allow it to come out. Some are even cruder that that and just need gently prising out.
  9. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  10. 1 point
    Yes Andy, a lot of modern detergents actually have softener built in to them, which is stupid, especially as towels don't need softener as it inhibits their drying ability (Save on fabric softener when tumble drying). We often our towels with a short spell in the tumble dryer if they've gone hard after drying outside Also, Don’t use fabric softener on children’s sleepwear
  11. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Have drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  13. 1 point
    I have same problem, Drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  14. 1 point
    Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.
  15. 1 point
    Hello. The leak could be running down from the back of the door seal or it could be coming from the plastic outer drum. You'd need to physically investigate and probably take off the front panel if it comes off. If the drum has gone it may well be expensive.
  16. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  17. 1 point
    Just an update - I had the fan cover off yesterday and it was absolutely clogged with compacted lint. Pulled out as much, if not more than Iain's pictures above!! Quite alarming at how compacted it was between the blades. Also took the duct cover off as much as I could and it didn't look quite as bad but annoyingly the sensors triggered yesterday during a test run. This morning I had it apart yet again and cleaned up the duct (where the sensors are specifically) and also ran the "Fluff Clean" cycle on cold, which admittedly I had probably not ran anywhere near as often enough previously (knowing what I now know) AND ran an empty wash cycle with some washing machine cleaner in. It's currently drying 1/4 of what was on the wash cycle (decent sun today so most stuff went on the line). Fingers crossed, otherwise I'm kind of out of ideas. Unless triggering and resetting the sensors so much has made them prone to trigger more easily? Is that a thing? Perhaps running the Fluff Clean cycle more often is key to solving this? It doesn't stress in the manual that it's even necessary, only to run it when drying cycles aren't working as they should.
  18. 1 point
    Would just like to add that I am also experiencing the exact problem as described by Iain (same model too). I also was about to buy replacement sensors (which trip regularly) but I’m glad I didn’t as that doesn’t appear to be the issue. I’ll be dismantling the fan and ensuring it’s clear of any lint later today (will report back) but yeah, not something I want to be doing every 6 months. I can’t really add anything other than #metoo . Just wanted to add some weight behind it being a design flaw I guess.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Hello Andy, Thanks for your response and it was of great help. I ended up keeping my washing machine Regards, Vinay.

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