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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/04/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  2. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 1 point
    Hi, thanks for getting back to me, I have contacted Miele for some tech. support.
  11. 1 point
    Hello there - you didnt specify what make model of washing machine but I predict once you press the aux button for 3 seconds it will matter not what programme you have the dial set to and just go into its normal automatic drum cleaning programme/cycle. Normally for about an hour Drum cleaning is a very hot wash of about 90'c heat , vigorous drum action , then rinse (or more than one rinse) maybe a spin of about 400rpm or 600rpm then end.
  12. 1 point
    Thank you sooo much for this. Ours broke during the lockdown and thanks to your instructions hubby has managed to take the machine apart ready for the new part to be delivered.
  13. 1 point
    I had the same exact problem on other siemens model (s 12-44). I have opened the back and found that the on the heating element one wire was disconnected! reattached it and now thanks G-O-D everything works !!!
  14. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thank you for your reply. I have managed to solve this! Just went over the most suspicious things, it was the door switch /locker By the way, to reset the code after the replacement, you need to hold the two buttons below the display, marked with a lock symbol... Best, Dedy.
  15. 1 point
    I just completed damper replacement on my WFF 2001. You do not need to remove the control panel. I did, assuming I would need to. I managed it, but broke one of the bottom clips (but no bad consequences) and it took me a long time to work out how it was attached. The front panel is secured by the bottom right screw behind the soap dispenser and two at the bottom behind the kick panel (where you access that little drain pipe and get access to unblock the pump). You then release the door seal front retaining spring and detach the door seal. Then unbolt the door lock mechanism (two bolts with those star shaped holes in the top - forgotten the technical term) and push it inside. Lift away the panel and door. You then have full access to the dampers, which are bolted on, with captive nuts welded to the structure. The most difficult bit is undoing them, they are quite tight. I bought original parts. They are twice as expensive as substitutes, but you never know whether it's the machine manufacturer over-pricing or the substitute manufacturer not caring about repeat orders! I would happily pay £40 insurance to avoid taking the machine apart again!
  16. 1 point
    Hi Bob12241 and Jonboyuk..... I just wanted to pass on my thanks for all I have read thus far.. After returning home from a night shift to my frantic but lovely wife this morning, informing me that our unit WDIR 7543101 - Washer/Dryer had failed i almost passed out. I was looking at having to purchase a new unit until I read what you Bob started and jonboyuk finished. I have ordered the diodes and you guys have given me the confidence to at least try this solution first so thank you again guys. Regards Craig
  17. 1 point
    Thanks. Looks like too many 30 degree washes have killed my machine. I will be more careful with the new one
  18. 1 point
    For reference, the post is here: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/91443-ise-w288-eco-no-power
  19. 1 point
    Hi Rob, same fault on my WDR7543121B - same PCB as your model, many thanks for the fault find
  20. 1 point
    They actually didn't charge anything.. just a charge to return the board. But officially, they charge £33.49 (through eBay) and then give the following refunds; 1. If No Fault Found following full functional testing, we will refund you 25% 2. If No Fault Found but we don't have a full functional test, we will refund you in full 3. If we are unable to repair, we will refund you in full. 4. If you want it returned, there will be a £3.50 deduction for shipping. I guess I was option 2, although I'm not sure how thoroughly they have been able to test it. I should get it back tomorrow. Anyway, in the meantime, I Have stripped down the washer dryer for parts on eBay, and have purchased a new machine. :-) Trying a Samsung this time, as it has a 5 year warranty - never had Samsung before, so I hope that's not a mistake.
  21. 1 point
    Hi Bob. There's too many to put in the title so I've added more models numbers to the tags on the post but it will only let me add so many. I've put other model numbers in your first post. We must be doing something right as a lot of people seem to be finding this article. Thanks again for your help.
  22. 1 point
    Hi. If it's tripping at random on wash, but trips every time on dry then that's strange. If it's tripping at random on wash, and trips at random on drying cycle that is more in line with what would be expected with an intermittent tripping the electrics fault. It seems like it is tripping on both wash and dry cycle so clearly the washing machine is of little use until it is properly repaired. Intermittent tripping can be caused by either leaks running onto electrical parts or chafed wires somewhere that touch something metal during the wash cycle. The latter can be frustratingly intermittent and influenced by the weight of the laundry inside. In other words a heavy load, or a load that is a bit out of balance can cause the tub to bounce about more on spin and subsequently allow the bare wire to touch the casing. Tripping the electrics every single time would only be caused by a chafed wire if it was constantly touching and shorting to earth, which is very unlikely, or an insulation fault on one of the components. The most common components to cause fusing or tripping of the electrics is either the washing machine heating element, or the dryers heating element, followed by suppressors, capacitors, and motors. An engineer would put his insulation test meter on the washing machine and test for a reading between live or neutral and earth. If there is one you would then have to work out where the leak is coming from. This is achieved by disconnecting suspected parts and seeing if the leak disappears. However, a more accurate method is to disconnect suspected parts and test them individually by putting one probe of the insulation test meter on the metal casing of the part and the other probe on each individual electrical connection point to check for a reading. As the meter uses 500 V DC but the washing machine and uses 230 volts there is some leeway for small readings. I forget the exact amount that is tolerated. But usually if an insulation leak is tripping the electrics or blowing the fuse is then there is usually a direct short to earth and the needle will shoot straight over.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Jonboyuk I mentioned it's location and how to remove the unit in a previous post on this subject, it is housed in a black enclosure (located at the lower rear RH side) which either unclips or has a few screws to remove the top cover. This applies to the Beko WDX8543130W and not your model, although it is likely similar in construction and different models use a variation to this PCB (not compatible though). I would check the same location if I were you. Please let me know how you go on for future reference. Regards Rob
  24. 1 point
    Check whether your machine is on the recall list first, a potential fire is a lot worse. Check / clean the pump filter. If that doesn't resolve it then pressing the Delay button once during the cycle should temporarily stop the beeping until the next wash.
  25. 1 point
    Hello. The mains filter would never only trip the electrics 5 mins into the drying cycle. If it only trips on the drying cycle it must be something that is only in play during the drying cycle and not the wash cycle. The main suspect has to be the heating element but It could be something else, especially as it takes 5 mins or so. Unfortunately though, unless you can see anything obvious you need an insulation test meter to diagnose this type of fault. Without one you are unable to see what is causing it to trip as described here washing machine tripping electrics
  26. 1 point
    I had exactly the same issue and when I checked the diode mentioned above it turned out to be blown, replaced the diode and the machine works fine.
  27. 1 point
    Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
  28. 1 point
    Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
  29. 1 point
    I finally got the heating element replace and the machine is now working fine.
  30. 1 point
    I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area as this prized apart quite quickly. Once the fascia is away the 10 screws are revealed, and away you go. The facia snapped back on easily It took me about 20 minutes Good Luck AW
  31. 1 point
    @Whitegoodshelp (Andy) You're an absolute legend, your post pointed me in the direction of the TOC (hermal Overload Cutout). Tested it and saw it was overloading that had caused the cutout and so have reset and modified our washing behaviour! Thank you so much, as it's saved us an engineer visit or me trying to replace a heating element! (I've clicked on several of your affiliate links on the site and will be sure to do more if we need anything white goods related in future)
  32. 1 point
    Yes the only way the drum can damage the outer drums like that is if it has come forward but it should be held very tightly in place by the drum pulley at the back. The only other thing that could technically cause it as if somehow something got stuck between the two drums and dragged all the way around it.
  33. 1 point
    Thank you Andy - that's really helpful.
  34. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same issue with a Beko washing machine. Tried cleaning and checking for blockages but nothing. E18 according to many sites is apparently about an uneven wash and the advice was not any good ( turning machine off and on, taking some of the washing out to reduce the load, taking the detergent tray out and back in) and didn’t solve the problem. I read that it might be related to the door (inter)lock and replaced this, which was fairly easy. Closed the door. Turned the machine on and it seemed to finish doing something. Then it was good to go. Problem solved. Hope this helps others.
  35. 1 point
    Hello! And thank you! An update to what I wrote before: that didn't actually solve the problem. The issue was with a faulty door lock which sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. We changed it and now the machine works. The E18 error is still there, though...
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Rob, my machine experience exactly the same problem. Your guide saved me at least £100.
  37. 1 point
    Many thanks to bob12241 I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2 Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash.
  38. 1 point
    After the machine being noisy for some time i came home to the wife saying the washer was not working it was making a noise but the drum was not going round.Tipped it up belt was off and bolts were out of the motor no sign of any rubbers they had disintegrated and the motor was hanging by its wire.I cut a piece of half inch hose to go where the mount was.I then cut a second piece and slit it length ways so it would fit over the first one(so i had two pieces of hose about an inch long one over the top of the other pushed them into the mounting hole then pushed the bolt through the hole on the middle of the hose pipe .Tightened it all up and put the belt back on.Its working great but i have ordered the nylon bushes to put in (dont get the black rubber ones) Samsung upgraded them as rubber ones didn't last very long.nylon ones do go but last a bit longer. Hope this is helpful to someone.
  39. 1 point
    Following up on this - mine did it in April, and then stopped, and has been sporadically doing it the last week. Hubby pressed the delay time button whilst it was doing it, and no more beeping! No idea why that fixed it, but it has.
  40. 1 point
    Hi Andy, very old topic I know but did you ever source a quiet pump for your hotpoint? I only ask because I baffled as to why any manufacturer would go to the expense of fitting a lovely quite brushless motor and leave the pump component as was. It would be nice to track one down and fit without to much bother, my machine is so quiet up to the point when it sends any current to the pump then it's eardefender time.
  41. 1 point
    I had to take the door off to remove the clips that held the drain pipe on the pump. It's all back together now, I tried the drain cycle and, low and behold, it pumped some water out into the pan. Not the full amount, but most of it. I've just put it on a 15 min cycle and I'll see what it does...
  42. 1 point
    Hello. That sounds like the motor. To troubleshoot a noise when the drum turns you need to take off the drive belt and make sure it's not catching on the drum pulley at the back. Then spin the drum by hand again. If the noise is still there it's related to the drum, drum bearings or something stuck in the drum. If the noise has gone then it has to be the motor or in some rare cases even the drive belt.
  43. 1 point
    Thankyou Andy for all your replies....heres the final update and solution.(FIXED) Having swapped the pcb, the problem continued.So i took out the motor and stripped it down.It turns out the circular magnet behind the rear motor bearing had cracked in half.... (tachy?) It was a 7 pin motor which had failed and i only had a 6 pin motor from a 1200 express.This would cause a conflict with the wiring harness on the 1400...so I took out the 6 pin plastic template and rebuilt the motor using the 7 pin from the broken motor....All the internal fittings are identical.Put the motor back on the machine and it is fully working.My only caution is to keep the maximum spin speed to 1200 and not run it at 1400..playing safe...just in case!
  44. 1 point
    indeed - and it cannot surely be for eco / saving electricity by turning the pump motor off ? - what does a drain pump consume?, maybe 25w at most if anywhere near that? I personally think they should have left it the old original way with the pump on throughout the spin , because with centrifugal spin anyway its going the 'squeeze' all that water out anyway and it has to drain off at some time anyway so why not keep it on constantly with it spinning away anyway - i dont personally like the way it stops and start and waits until a fair amount has built up in the sump before engaging and pumping out the water.
  45. 1 point
    Hi Skistones. Many thanks for the update. Yes appliance engineers have never repaired pcbs other than the odd dry joint soldering. There is no technical information for them even for the trade. However, many technical minded electronics experts have repaired their own using equivalent electronic parts. They clearly have experience and knowledge about these things that is never imparted to even the most well trained domestic appliance engineers. There is a company that specialises in repairing washing machine pcbs though, so anyone wanting to attempt that route could try contacting QER electronic repairs.
  46. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  47. 1 point
    I had the same problem. It took the best part of 3 hours to get out. I tried flat knives, flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, it wouldn't budge! What eventually cracked it was picking on the weak point at the hole where the thermostat slots in. I ended up using a serated knife to cut a line through where the thermostat hole is. I was eventually able to lever the end out using a screwdriver. Nightmare. Once it was out the size of the bulge on the inside edge of the rubber showed that thing was never coming out by trying to just tease around the edge. Phew! Don't fancy doing that again for a while!
  48. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  49. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  50. 1 point
    Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.

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