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  1. 4 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 3 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  3. 2 points
    Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make sure you pack around the area with tin foil to catch the sparks. Fan was completely clogged, as was some sort of sensor thingy just below it in the well. Helpful tip: when digging the fluff out the gaps, use a small flat-headed screwdriver, insert it between the blades from the outside, starting at the top and scrape down to the bottom, or vice versa. This picks all the fluff off the blade in one go. Don’t dig the fluff out at random as plenty sticks to the blades and is a PITA to tackle. And thus ends the tale of overcoming Bosch bad design - all for the cost of a new Dremel cutting wheel.
  4. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  5. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  6. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  7. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  8. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  9. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for the update. Make sure they don't fob you off with an, "I can't see anything wrong" report. Make sure you have a wash load already in the machine that you know has caused it to trip and make sure he fills it with water to make them properly heavy before testing on spin. Otherwise some engineers are likely to just test the machine with an insulation test meter where they are unlikely to find anything because it only trips at the end of spin. Then they may put it on spin (usually without asking for a test load) and of course it won't trip. Then they'll say they can't find anything (unless they can actually see something).
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply - unfortunately I did contact Ransom spares first who were at a loss as to what size was needed and it was they who advised me to get in touch with Hotpoint. Luckily my husband has already replaced bearings on other machines - successfully so instead of a new machine it's worth laying out around £20 to give it a try!! When I do find out the bearing sizes I shall post on here to let other people know.
  12. 1 point
    I've got a hypothesis on what causes the beeping. My fairly new washerdryer INDESIT XWDE751480 started randomly beeping some time ago, showing no obvious pattern. Googling for solutions didn't help. I decided to run a cleaning program as instructed in the manual (hold A and B for 5 seconds). Somewhat about 5 minutes in the program the washer went into a beeping frenzy. It got me nervous and I had to switch it off. This incident tipped me off to the idea that the temperature might be associated with beeping. The evidence is: 1. All the beeping happens only during the wash cycle. That is, when the heating occurs. 2. The washer beeped sporadically on a short program with 30 degrees. 3. The cleaning program caused the washer to beep intensely. The program must run at 60+ degrees, a higher temperature than on the shorter cycle. 4. There was no load in the drum during the cleaning program, suggesting it has nothing to do with load or bearings. 5. Finally, I ran the washer with temperature set to off. And... it didn't beep at all. As a result, I suspect that the heating element is the cause, possibly got covered with limescale and not transferring heat as expected. I would not be surprised given how hard the water in my area is. It could also be that heat makes the front panel expand and push against the buttons, because it seems like pressing on the button panel or the delay button helped some to clear the beeps. To confirm this hypothesis, can I ask those who had the beeping issue to run their washers on a program with 0 degrees and on a program with 60 degrees, and see if there's no beeping during the temperature-off program and lots of beeping at the 60 degrees one. Thanks, Max
  13. 1 point
    I also had the same problem, the machine stopped dead in the middle of a cycle, I found this thread and I am delighted to say that on Saturday we swapped out the D7 and the machine sprang back to life. Thanks for posting the solution bob12241 and thanks to jonboyuk for your step by step guide as we have the exact same model. Saved me around £350 and I now know how to do a spot of soldering.
  14. 1 point
    I made an account just to say my thanks. Same issues as everyone else here, lights went off suddenly, checked the specified diode, it was indeed faulty. Replaced said diode and everything works again! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks - that makes sense. I've ordered a new seal and I'll investigate downstream if the new seal doesn't fix the leak. Very grateful for your advice.
  16. 1 point
    Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but he was clearly trained in how to push blame for any washer-dryer failure promptly back to the customer: After explaining symptoms (no fault code, but no hot air for dry/steam, horrible white gunge being put onto washing in drum during every other wash) he asked me "and are you aware of the Rinse Out Fluff feature?" Could have been my imagination, but the way it tripped off his tongue meant that he was well used to asking that question and getting a confused 'No?' from the owner (after all, the RoF feature is only mentioned in the middle of the lengthy manual, which probably half the customer base will never bother to read). "Yes", I said tartly, knowing what was going to be coming next. "Right... and have you remembered to use it AFTER EVERY DRYING CYCLE?!" - Again, the rising tone in his voice suggested that many of the poor s*ds who answered "Yes" to the first question might have made the mistake of answering "No" to this second question. I could have wasted a bit of time by reminding him that the language in the Manual regarding the RoF feature was not exactly apocalyptic: "Run the Rinse out fluff programme before the machine is used again so that fluff cannot be deposited on the next load (e.g. fluff from dark garments being deposited on lighter coloured items) or cause a blockage." And this just located on p.45 in the manual. (As we now know, for many Miele Washer/Dryer owners, the RoF feature should really be in red ink, with words along the lines of "Please remember that if you don't use the RoF function immediately after every single use of the drying function, your £2000 machine is likely to break down just after the 2-year warranty expires and cost you upwards of £500 to repair. Your call") After all the hours wasted researching this fault, I decided to be polite but firm "Yes, every time. And I am well aware that this issue is due to a design fault common in Miele Washer-Driers, whereby soap powder congeals along the hot air system and cannot be cleaned out by the end-user, thus leading to issues with the safety thermostat and other parts." What was interesting was that as soon I said this, he did not faff around going off to 'ask his supervisor' or similar, but immediately booked the call. It is possible that he and other customer-facing colleagues know the issue with the washer-dryers, and so when confronted with someone who clearly knows it too, they give up trying to blind customers with science. Anyhow, the repair guy duly arrived and fortunately he was not a dud. He was excellent, very efficient, actually able to work on the machine at the same time as discussing it, and very loyal to the company (probably too loyal - he avoided giving too much away about these dryer issues when asked direct questions). I had been ready for an engineer who simply walked in, reset the thermostat and walked out - but as soon as he stepped through the door he said 'This will take about 2 hours', so I knew that either he was going to do a full dryer system clean out or parts replacement. Turned out to be the latter, i.e. he brought a top element box and fan, and a long plastic oblong duct thing, which I believe connects the heater to the suds container below? Pleased to say that when he took the various panels off, the machine itself inside looked very clean - which of course it should do after we have religiously bought and used all the various over-priced Miele de-lousers, and given the fact that it has probably only had the equivalent of 3-4 years use, if that. The key question - how the supposedly intelligent electronics could not detect that the heater was no longer heating and display an error code - was one he couldn't answer, or maybe preferred not to (I assume the real answer is along the lines of "yeah, I know people pay £2k for these machines, but the design guys don't think it worth putting in another temperature sensor that would pick up on the fact that no hot air is coming out during a drying cycle ..." As someone who generally respects German design, I was still intrigued as to whether this dryer failure issue was just a design flaw in my machine series and older, so asked if the drying system was the same in the new means. "Yes, fortunately!" he answered enthusiastically. This did perplex me a little - I can only assume that most repair guys take the view "sure, the system our machines use gets gunged up and conks even if you do use the RoF feature, but at the end of the day all we need to do is replace these two parts and it is rendered as good as new - and of course Miele customers can afford to pay, otherwise they would not be buying machines that are 2-3 times the price of the competition" A warning to anyone just about to purchase a new Miele washer/dryer I guess. Some might say that I am being a little harsh, but I know exactly how well cared for this machine has been, and how we have always used the RoF feature after every dry - so heaven help a harassed mum/dad with 4 kids and 12 wash/dries a week and no time to read the manual or use all the various Miele machine cleaning products. I'd have more respect for Miele if they took two simple steps - #1, move the Rinse Out Fluff instruction to page 1 of the manual or maybe #2 simply build a Rinse Out Fluff cycle into every drying cycle (you open the door, take the dried clothes out, slam the door, it RoFs and then turns off). While we are at it, maybe #3 - spend a Euro or two on putting another over-heat sensor near the heating element that gets gunged up, so that at least the machine gives a reliable error code - I never got the infamous '55' error displayed, which for all I know meant that the fan stopped working but the element was left getting hotter than a nuclear reaction inside my white box. BTW, out of interest, I downloaded the Manual for their newest, priciest washer-dryer, to see if it had been updated in anway - nope, same wishy-washy text re Rinse Out Fluff, buried deep in the centre. Fingers crossed that when ours goes again, it is in the week before the expiry of the warranty... Thanks to the various people here who contributed info that enabled me to talk knowledgeably to Service Centre and so secure a decent repair first time around. J For google: Miele washer dryer WT2780 WT 2780 drying problems issues cold air no 55 error message debris gunge white grey on clothes Waschtrockner lave-linge sechant
  17. 1 point
    Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not enough it didn't register with me that that was the problem I have attached the part that was replaced. It's a part I cleaned from underneath but didn't think the inside was all clogged up. Little did I know. Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Gary
  18. 1 point
    I would definitely contact the manufacture, especially if you are getting small shocks from it. They should be able to tell you if the drum should be earthed or not.
  19. 1 point
    Thanks. Looks like too many 30 degree washes have killed my machine. I will be more careful with the new one
  20. 1 point
    You can take the screws off the top if the fan unit and the top will move far enough to access the fan to remove the lint, but it is very fiddly and time consuming. We did this, but a couple of months later the sensor has tripped again.
  21. 1 point
    Hello Andy. Sorry I didn't pay much attention to this as it's tumble dryers and it's only supposed to be washing machine forums. I have thought about opening it up to other appliances but I like the fact that it specialises in washing machines and it's enough work for me just dealing with washing machines :-) some tumble dryers have different settings for different types of dryness. Our tumble dryer for example allows you to set options for cupboard dry or extra dry for example. If anything I would expect a vented dryer to be a bit more efficient. Also there is a problem when mixing different fabrics that can confuse dryers. So for example if most of the fabrics in the drum become dry but there's just one or two different fabrics that haven't tried yet the dryer can end up sensing that its job is done and stop drying. Many modern tumble dryers detect dryness via a brush that trails on the drum.
  22. 1 point
    Just to provide an update, I had a visit from the Samsung engineer and after checking over the machine at the back, he confirmed that the motor is faulty and needs to be totally replaced. There's an issue with the magnets inside the motor itself which was causing the terrible noise
  23. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Update: I ordered 2 new brushes and when I got home tonight and when I opened up and looked in the machine I realised they are very similar but the incorrect part. I did however notice that out of the 2 brushes only one of them were connecting with the armature. I removed the one that was not touching and the carbon popped out futher which then allowed me to reseat and have both brushes now touching the armature. I can a wash with a few shirts in an it run perfect. I then ran with more of a half load and it run for 30 mins untill it came to a stop after struggling to turn the drum on one occasion. However, when I paused the machine and then pressed again to unpause - the machine turned over and carried on and completed the cycle. I ran again with low load and it completed with no issues. I ran for a 4th cycle half full and this time it stopped on 3 occasions over the 52mins, each time starting again fine after I paused and then unpaused the cycle. Thoughts? I am still going to get the correct bushes and fit BTW.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks Andy Good summary and considered opinion, I fully agree with you. I wish I knew this when my wife was singing the virtues of these machines and we made the mistake of buying one. No more washer/dryers for me. Thank you very much.
  25. 1 point
    Normally a fault on the washer dryer section does not affect the washing machine. It's possible that whatever is causing the electrics to trip has nothing to do with the dryer and it was just coincidental. This fault needs an insulation test meter to track exactly where the electricity is leaking to earth. Please let us know if you get to the bottom of it.
  26. 1 point
    Hey Andy, well like the good sheep I already replaced it to no avail. It wasn't take costly to try compared to getting someone to come and take a look at it. I think there is a good chance it's the pressure chamber, things seem to add up to it. I'll take a look this weekend. Thanks again Andy.
  27. 1 point
    Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?
  28. 1 point
    I had exactly the same issue and when I checked the diode mentioned above it turned out to be blown, replaced the diode and the machine works fine.
  29. 1 point
    Our washing machine-a BEKO washer dryer WDA 914401W stopped working after 18 months. We called out a local repairer. He said about £200 and a couple of weeks wait for the part. I decided to have a look myself, I found this forum, but didn't think it was the same circuit (because there was another circuit board on top of it). It was only when I managed to remove the the circuit (by turning the machine on it's side and removing the circuit from the bottom of the washer) that I found out it was. I ordered the part (diode) couple of quid plus P&P, fitted it and put it all back in. I went back to the repairers showing them the website and giving them the spare diodes. While I was there, they opened up another circuit board they's ordered for a broken BEKO and lo and behold it was the same circuit. They thanked me (even though I have done them out of some business!), but said that they only replace circuit boards so they can guarantee the parts for 12 months. I cannot thank this forum and Bob12241 enough for this very cheap fix. It now gives me a bit more confidence not to throw things away when they are broken, but try and have them fixed at the component level. I just hope more people find this fix and save a whole load of money and BEKO washing machines live a lot longer.
  30. 1 point
    Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
  31. 1 point
    I finally got the heating element replace and the machine is now working fine.
  32. 1 point
    Outer drum comes in two halves. I definitely change the front drum. But before that I need to find the root cause of this problem and to do that I need to open the back side of the machine and disintegrate the drum. I will update you when I am done with that inspection. I really appreciate for your time and effort to reply on my post and help me out on this issue.
  33. 1 point
    That looks as if the inner drum has been catching on the plastic outer drum and gauging through it? Is the inner drum noisy, can you lift it up and down, is it scraping when you turn it?
  34. 1 point
    Many thanks to bob12241 I had the same issue, I'm no electrician, but I can solder pretty well. This was as easy fix. Got a pack of the recommended diodes online for around £2 Thanks again to this forum, you just saved me a bunch of cash.
  35. 1 point
    Thanks again Andy. The saddle valve had gradually become obstructed by what seems like corrosion, restricting the flow of water considerably. I've cut it away and replaced it with a proper Pegler washing machine supply valve and all is back to working properly. I will add that the original saddle valve was fitted by the builder who installed the kitchen and he went out of business.
  36. 1 point
    After the machine being noisy for some time i came home to the wife saying the washer was not working it was making a noise but the drum was not going round.Tipped it up belt was off and bolts were out of the motor no sign of any rubbers they had disintegrated and the motor was hanging by its wire.I cut a piece of half inch hose to go where the mount was.I then cut a second piece and slit it length ways so it would fit over the first one(so i had two pieces of hose about an inch long one over the top of the other pushed them into the mounting hole then pushed the bolt through the hole on the middle of the hose pipe .Tightened it all up and put the belt back on.Its working great but i have ordered the nylon bushes to put in (dont get the black rubber ones) Samsung upgraded them as rubber ones didn't last very long.nylon ones do go but last a bit longer. Hope this is helpful to someone.
  37. 1 point
    Yeh but given it's a cold wash, I figured the temp sensor wouldn't come into it... I've got a repair guy calling out tomorrow morning. As much fun as it's been dismantling it every night this week, I've run out of patience and time! I'll revert back and let you know what the outcome is. Thanks for all your advice!
  38. 1 point
    Thankyou Andy for all your replies....heres the final update and solution.(FIXED) Having swapped the pcb, the problem continued.So i took out the motor and stripped it down.It turns out the circular magnet behind the rear motor bearing had cracked in half.... (tachy?) It was a 7 pin motor which had failed and i only had a 6 pin motor from a 1200 express.This would cause a conflict with the wiring harness on the 1400...so I took out the 6 pin plastic template and rebuilt the motor using the 7 pin from the broken motor....All the internal fittings are identical.Put the motor back on the machine and it is fully working.My only caution is to keep the maximum spin speed to 1200 and not run it at 1400..playing safe...just in case!
  39. 1 point
    Hi - I had a slight query on one of the brushes I had replaced and marked before I reassembled because it popped out when fitting . So I restripped machine I reisntalled the other way round and the problem is fixed.
  40. 1 point
    Hi Kev pics have been included in my posting as an update done a while back, if you need, get in touch I will email them to you also. Hope you find them Regards Rob
  41. 1 point
    I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I solder it to the board, but I bet it will work as gold. Thank you very much bob, not all heroes wear capes!
  42. 1 point
    Hello. They are all different. The string thing probably just works for the specific type of door it’s demonstrated on. It wouldn’t work for most washing machines. I have an article looking at this fault but it’s just general advice Washing machine door will not open
  43. 1 point
    I fixed the washer. It was (apparantly) a dry joint on the neutral side of the circuit shown above As to that door interlock diagram I now understand that between pins pins 1 & 2 is the heater element (PTC thermister) which, when reaching a certain temperature, causes a bi-metal strip to close the switch contacts between pins 2 & 3.
  44. 1 point
    Yes and no. I drained it and cleaned the pump filter as best I could and lo! it worked. But only once. Then same problem started again and cleaning and draining didn't work a second time. Before that I did have an engineer out who tested lots, including testing the door lock thoroughly and it was completely fine. His conclusion was that the pcb wasn't receiving the message that the door was locked, so it refused to start and unlocked again. He tested bits of the pcb but couldn't see which component was the problem. Andy - I was hoping that it might be possible to just buy new relays or components and solder them on, or at least give that a try. It's such a waste of resources to have to ditch a whole machine which is otherwise perfectly fine for the sake of a few circuitry bits. Yet it doesn't make sense either to spend £300 on a circuit board when I can buy a Miele with warranty for £120 more. This site is a great resource - thank you for all your work running it!!
  45. 1 point
    Hi Andy, The blown resistor is on the power supply part of the circuit board. So the most likely candidate for the fault is the power supply. It's a switched mode supply and I'm told by those more knowledgeable than me that when they go down it's usually the caps that are at fault. I'm also told it's so common repair kits are sold that consist entirely of replacement caps. The resistor that blew tells me there's too much current going through that part of the circuit. That the replacement also blew tells me it's not the resistor so the caps will be the next line of enquiry, followed by the other usual suspects. I fully understand engineers shying away from messing with PCBs. Repairing them is a non starter with all the surface mounted parts and chips but most, if not all, of the power supply side is workable. A circuit diagram would help in tracing the circuit and identifying voltage test points. I take your point about the motor and heater, and will check these, but I can't see how these would cause excessive current draw through that part of the circuit where the blown resistor sits. The resistors, caps, diodes, transformer and the PWM chip are what controls the voltages and that, I think, is where where the fault lies. Of course, that fault could have fried other parts of the circuit before the resistor blew, but I won't know that until I get the power supply working - if I get it working. Water is the most likely cause, as you suggest. I put the machine it on its right side following a demonstration on youtube. Unfortunately the control board sits on the right side of the machine, which I didn't know at the time as I didn't need to take the top off the machine to get to the pump. Only later did I notice in the user manual that it's recommended to lay it on its back or front, so yes, water could have gotten inside the control board housing. What was initially a simple, quick, cost free fix, has turned into a time consuming nightmare that may yet cost hundreds to put right. All because it was laid down on the wrong side. Again, thanks for the advice and suggestions.
  46. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Have drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  48. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  49. 1 point
    Would just like to add that I am also experiencing the exact problem as described by Iain (same model too). I also was about to buy replacement sensors (which trip regularly) but I’m glad I didn’t as that doesn’t appear to be the issue. I’ll be dismantling the fan and ensuring it’s clear of any lint later today (will report back) but yeah, not something I want to be doing every 6 months. I can’t really add anything other than #metoo . Just wanted to add some weight behind it being a design flaw I guess.
  50. 1 point
    Door switch fixed the problem.
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