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  1. 1 point
  2. 1 point
    I had the same issue and took the built in washing machine out of its cabinet tilted it only to find a metal protective plate underneath. So this wasn’t going to get me to the pump quickly. I then removed the front plastic cover and used adjustable pliers to remove the pipe and found amazing amount of debris. Cleaned it all out replaced everything (sliced my hand in the process!) and it all worked like a dream afterwards... thank you amazing forum!
  3. 1 point
    Thank you Andy, I will try that site
  4. 1 point
    Hi Andy, a friend of mine came round to have a look before I splashed the cash on getting an engineer out. He managed to pull the offending item back through with his mole grips - it's all in the wrist action apparently! Did a wash and didn't sound like any harm had been done, although I can imagine that the offending brass thingy might have scoured the back of the drum casing somewhat. Hopefully will never find out. Once again, thanks for your help, I'll have to remember you next time I have a problem! Cheers Gary
  5. 1 point
    Hi Andy and Andy, Yes, I've been bitten by live caps before. After all, they are little batteries. Keep one hand behind your back is good advice. There's no visible evidence of a problem with the caps, but they can still be duff. I did drain the water out, but not enough it seems. The piece of foam that sits behind the control board housing was wet, so water getting to the board is very likely, thought the board itself was dry when I took it out.
  6. 1 point
    a lot of the time you can tell defunct caps by the way they bulge and sometime open top and sometime a bit of electrolyte leaking out of the capacitor and shorting out - but could be anything at this stage. be careful there with the board , most boards on washing machines have some huge capacitors and store some serious amount of juice even when washing machine plug has been pulled out of wall socket . and watch for live metal heatsinks as well! you can normally empty out the water in the drum with an emergency drain pipe normally next to the pop on an awful lot of machines, just take out the plug at the end of the tube and the water will eventually empty out of the drum .
  7. 1 point
    Hi Andy, The blown resistor is on the power supply part of the circuit board. So the most likely candidate for the fault is the power supply. It's a switched mode supply and I'm told by those more knowledgeable than me that when they go down it's usually the caps that are at fault. I'm also told it's so common repair kits are sold that consist entirely of replacement caps. The resistor that blew tells me there's too much current going through that part of the circuit. That the replacement also blew tells me it's not the resistor so the caps will be the next line of enquiry, followed by the other usual suspects. I fully understand engineers shying away from messing with PCBs. Repairing them is a non starter with all the surface mounted parts and chips but most, if not all, of the power supply side is workable. A circuit diagram would help in tracing the circuit and identifying voltage test points. I take your point about the motor and heater, and will check these, but I can't see how these would cause excessive current draw through that part of the circuit where the blown resistor sits. The resistors, caps, diodes, transformer and the PWM chip are what controls the voltages and that, I think, is where where the fault lies. Of course, that fault could have fried other parts of the circuit before the resistor blew, but I won't know that until I get the power supply working - if I get it working. Water is the most likely cause, as you suggest. I put the machine it on its right side following a demonstration on youtube. Unfortunately the control board sits on the right side of the machine, which I didn't know at the time as I didn't need to take the top off the machine to get to the pump. Only later did I notice in the user manual that it's recommended to lay it on its back or front, so yes, water could have gotten inside the control board housing. What was initially a simple, quick, cost free fix, has turned into a time consuming nightmare that may yet cost hundreds to put right. All because it was laid down on the wrong side. Again, thanks for the advice and suggestions.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Thanks. No problem. I may contact QER as you suggest. However, if I had a circuit diagram myself I, along with much more electronics savvy friends, might be able to trace the fault more easily. I'm not being stingy, just frugal. I'm on state pension and have to do my best to fix things before I splash out on replacements. I'm guessing it's a power supply issue as it's drawing too much current through that resistor. Maybe a cap, diode or that PWM Switch. Curiously once I cleaned off the soot nothing looked untoward. Even the original blown resistor looked fine. Things can still be wrong even when they look OK, as they are in this case. Still puzzled as to why it all kicked off after I fixed then pump. I really do appreciate the free advice and help. It's not like you are being paid or anything. That replacement board that was only one digit out that I mentioned above - I have noticed that boards have different numbers depending on what year they were made so any thoughts on it?
  9. 1 point
    Update: The black sooty deposit is just that - soot. Friend suggested it was from the bushes being attracted by the magnetism in the choke. I've cleaned it all off now. Checked a few parts and that blackened resistor next to the larger blue cap had gone open circuit. Replaced it but it blew with a puff of smoke when I switched back on. And now there's no lights on at all. Back to the drawing board. Any, and all, suggestions gratefully accepted. Wouldn't want to get an expensive new board, or a new machine, when it could just be a part that needs replacing.
  10. 1 point
    Hello. Instructions on how to remove a soap dispenser drawer for cleaning are usually in the instruction manual. If you don't have it you may be able to download one from here washing machine instruction manuals That's assuming it is meant to come out, but most should be. At the end of the day it shouldn't be difficult, there's just something at the back (possibly underneath the drawer) that stops it coming all the way out and a tab or device to press to allow it to come out. Some are even cruder that that and just need gently prising out.
  11. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  12. 1 point
    Yes Andy, a lot of modern detergents actually have softener built in to them, which is stupid, especially as towels don't need softener as it inhibits their drying ability (Save on fabric softener when tumble drying). We often our towels with a short spell in the tumble dryer if they've gone hard after drying outside Also, Don’t use fabric softener on children’s sleepwear
  13. 1 point
    Carefully check all of the writing on the detergent packaging. Many modern detergents are designed to leave a perfumed fragrance even after the laundry has been rinsed. Apparently some people like it, but many people do not. Try to find a detergent that does not do this. I would start here Best washing detergent for sensitive skin. This is assuming that the problem is due to deliberate residues left by modern detergents. Which is not necessarily the case. An alternative theory would be that the washing machine just isn't rinsing the laundry efficiently. Make sure you are not selecting any eco-cycles or eco-buttons which may use a lot less water but be less efficient at rinsing. Make sure you are using the exact amount of detergent as described on the detergent box for your level of soiling, and hardness of water. If you are unsure how hard or soft your water as you can usually check quite easily online. Finally, make sure you are not overloading the washing machine which can trap detergent in folds and prevent efficient washing and rinsing. Hopefully some of that will help.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Have drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  15. 1 point
    I have same problem, Drilled the top of the donut shape not going all the way through to the inner frame and it came apart. Got a new hinge on order for £8. Will let you know how i get on in a couple of days.
  16. 1 point
    Thank you so much for the quick reply Andy! I found a hole in the door seal, so will get it replaced. Thanks again.
  17. 1 point
    Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry cleanser liquid to the wash cycle which will kill germs at under 40'c (allegedly) if you can get it where you live or something similar. - Dont forget to leave the door ajar after the wash and at all times if you can, it allows air to get into the drum and dry it out rather than leave it condensated and damp (which can lead to damp smell) and wipe the grey rubber door gasket dry after every wash and look for black mould on the grey door rubber gasket (sometimes if it already is bad with mould sometimes you cannot even get rid of it by cleaning and you have to have the rubber door gasket replaced or replace the machine altogether if the mould has really got in there and taken hold. Have you ever cleaned out the pump filter on your washing machine? - on most washing machines the pump filter is behind a door or facia at the bottom of the machine (the instruction booklet will say how to) sometimes if they are not cleaned they , over time, get full of gunk of undisolved washing liquid / conditioner, hair, fluff, coins and buttons, and sometimes if the filter is dirty and need cleaning a 'damp' smell can emulate from the machine, Come up from the pump filter and the smell then can come out through the drum and soap drawer. Talking of soap drawer do you take that out regularly and clean it ? most soap drawers can be removed totally from the washing machine by pushing a clip down at the rear of the soap drawer same time while pulling out the soap drawer. Clean all the undisolved washing powder and soap liquid and conditioner off the drawer insides and at the bottom of the soap drawer and rinse it well and then dry it totally before putting it back in place. Again a 'yucky' soap drawer attracts mould and can give off a pungent damp smell. - Good luck , I am sure you will eradicate it or make it smell better in the end if you do all of that .. well I hope anyway. EDIT: I have sourced the Instruction Manual for your washing machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46003/Electrolux-Ewg-12440-W.html?page=3#manual
  18. 1 point
    Hello. The leak could be running down from the back of the door seal or it could be coming from the plastic outer drum. You'd need to physically investigate and probably take off the front panel if it comes off. If the drum has gone it may well be expensive.
  19. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  20. 1 point
    Just an update - I had the fan cover off yesterday and it was absolutely clogged with compacted lint. Pulled out as much, if not more than Iain's pictures above!! Quite alarming at how compacted it was between the blades. Also took the duct cover off as much as I could and it didn't look quite as bad but annoyingly the sensors triggered yesterday during a test run. This morning I had it apart yet again and cleaned up the duct (where the sensors are specifically) and also ran the "Fluff Clean" cycle on cold, which admittedly I had probably not ran anywhere near as often enough previously (knowing what I now know) AND ran an empty wash cycle with some washing machine cleaner in. It's currently drying 1/4 of what was on the wash cycle (decent sun today so most stuff went on the line). Fingers crossed, otherwise I'm kind of out of ideas. Unless triggering and resetting the sensors so much has made them prone to trigger more easily? Is that a thing? Perhaps running the Fluff Clean cycle more often is key to solving this? It doesn't stress in the manual that it's even necessary, only to run it when drying cycles aren't working as they should.
  21. 1 point
    Would just like to add that I am also experiencing the exact problem as described by Iain (same model too). I also was about to buy replacement sensors (which trip regularly) but I’m glad I didn’t as that doesn’t appear to be the issue. I’ll be dismantling the fan and ensuring it’s clear of any lint later today (will report back) but yeah, not something I want to be doing every 6 months. I can’t really add anything other than #metoo . Just wanted to add some weight behind it being a design flaw I guess.
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    Hello Andy, Thanks for your response and it was of great help. I ended up keeping my washing machine Regards, Vinay.
  24. 1 point
    Door switch fixed the problem.
  25. 1 point
    Hi Andy and thanks for the response. I traced the cables back to the circuit board from the valves and worked my way back from there. They are controlled by a bank of Triac's and MOV's triggered from the main microcontroller. One of the triacs had gone bad, i isolated this just using a basic diode check function on a multimeter which indicated that there was no voltage drop across the component. Replaced with a new triac (Z0107NA if anyone is interested) and all is well again! Its not something i would recommend unless you have experience with soldering electronics as these components are heat sensitive and easily damaged whilst fitting. Ive tested on each cycle now and none of the programming seems to have been affected either. Thanks for the quick response anyway and have a nice day!
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Andy I'll do some more investigations today, I'll let you know what I find.
  27. 1 point
    I just wanted to say a sincere thanks to HCF for this very useful advice. It's the only useful thing on the internet about this bloody drawer! Finally got it open thanks to this and cleaned out a horrible amount of gunk. Service wash now happily working away.
  28. 1 point
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks I got one, it's a Beko one, apparently they are the same. It was £20.
  30. 1 point
    Hi there Chris, Just joined the forums after reading your post, I'm willing to bet that you managed to fix up that old servis. I have one myself which i am offering if you want one for spares? You can have it free if you cover transport costs. Or you can pick up from Scotland. Regards, Dave.
  31. 1 point
    I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat
  32. 1 point
    HI Andy, You could be right I will have to try that. There is no such instruction like that in the manual but I did manage to cancel the selection by frantically pressing the CANCEL button..LOL Dave
  33. 1 point
    I THINK YOU GOT IT!!!! I have connected the right spring (the one with yellow marking) in the wrong slot. Sh*******T. I am lucky that it did not break! I confirmed it by looking at the video I followed to change the bearings. Right now a washing is running. As soon as it is done, I guess I will have to open the machine again, take down all the weights and then reattach it in the right slot. Or do you think I can do it (re-fit the spring) with care without opening everything up again? THANKS YOU SO MUCH!
  34. 1 point
    Hi Kal402, thanks so much for the info. We've booked a dryer repairman to come in a week or so. He didn't know what the metal strip was. I think we're experiencing similar problems as you with the different cycles so we'll double check and also send him this post. Thanks again and I'll update this post once we know for definite. Best wishes.
  35. 1 point
    Just an update I had Hotpoint visit to inspect my machine as it was still under guarantee. I had noticed that any program other than the 30 or 60 minute cycles would stop after about 15-20 minutes. Their engineer identified that a sensor was missing that told the machine if the clothes were dry or not. He said it was a strip of metal and asked if I had found one in the dryer recently. Problem solved. Parts ordered and now awaiting them to come back and fit them.
  36. 1 point
    I'd disconnect from the mains and have a look inside with the back off and lid off first to check if the suspension and drum seems OK. Also, if the bearings had collapsed causing the door seal to catch I'd expect the washing machine to have been very noisy for some time before. they don't just collapse for no reason.
  37. 1 point
    It depends on if the drum bearings have gone or not. If the drum has come loose or can be moved up and down it would account for it catching on the door seal. But if the door seal has just become slightly twisted and dislodged then the fault may just need the door seal replacing or refitting. Also check the suspension to make sure the drum isn't twisted and is held centrally inside the cabinet. If one of the suspension legs has become damaged and the drum has twisted that might also account for the door seal catching.
  38. 1 point
    Wow. That sounds just like a donkey. It sounds like the drum is catching on the door seal where the two meet in front of the drum? Can you see if it is or not? Check all around the door seal in front of the drum.
  39. 1 point
    Yes it looks the same but there are quite a few that look the same and I can't tell what will work and what won't. It says it should work so I should be able to send it back if it won't. Will see when it arrives.

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