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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/con
    8 points
  2. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The
    4 points
  3. Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fa
    3 points
  4. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  5. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but
    2 points
  6. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted
    2 points
  7. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  8. Hello Andy, Listen, I wanted to follow up with you regarding my problem as it is now fixed and maybe my information can help someone else. The wife wanted to buy a new machine but we can't afford the best part of 1000EU so after seeing how good a condition that machine was still in and not wanting to replace it I called Bosch. 99EU for them to look at it, if they repair it then the fee is waved. Anyway, it was to do with the incoming water. While the pressure was OK the flow rate was greatly restricted. As I didn't have the experience to know what was enough and what was not en
    2 points
  9. Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but my own Serie 6 washer dryer stopped drying a couple of weeks ago and google brought me here. So, turns out the impeller was SERIOUSLY blocked and needed some TLC - the machine being only 2 years old. Rather than waste my time, I decided on some “user in-service modification” by removing an offending bit of metal from the back panel to enable the drier motor assembly to be removed fully (see attached pics). I achieved this with a trusty Dremel and cutting disk along the black pen line in the pic. Takes about 30mins to do, carefully. Make
    2 points
  10. Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
    2 points
  11. Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would sug
    2 points
  12. Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
    2 points
  13. Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
    2 points
  14. Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one ou
    2 points
  15. Oh and btw way you are the winner of the best title ever on these forums
    1 point
  16. Don't have any information on entering a test mode. Not all washing machines necessarily have one or if they do they are not normally advertised. If you suspect a pressure system blockage just disconnect the washing machine from the mains after making sure all the water is drained away and then carefully remove the pressure tubing from the bottom of the pressure switch underneath the lid. You can then gently blow down this tube, which should be clear. If there is a blockage you should easily be able to tell and the plastic pressure tubing bottle at the bottom of this thin hose would need remov
    1 point
  17. Just an update - Beko engineer attended this afternoon - had to replace two components, one was a capacitor and the other was a PCB. he suggested one caused the other, but unsure why it happened. I asked if it was unusual for a 3 week old machine to need two components replacing, he said he had never seen a new range go after 3 weeks anyway its all fixed now - im a little nervous with a new machine needing new parts straight away..........
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. Thanks for that, that must be what that disintegrated mess is! After s some more hunting about I found this diagram. In case it's helpful for anyone else doing this job😊
    1 point
  20. Hi Andy, Thank you for your response and putting me on the right track. I took a look at the control module and the pcb is cracked. The crack passes through 7 traces with some loosing contact. I have managed to find a replacement for not a lot of money, I have fitted it and it works! Happy days, at least for now! By the way, I do actually have a Hoover twin tub. Can you still get belts for these? Have a great Easter. Thanks again
    1 point
  21. The first time I changed the heater element on my Hotpoint, I had terrible trouble in getting the old one out. It involved sawing through one electrode so that the metal cover could be revolved a bit so that access to the rubber was obtained. The rubber was then painfully picked out, with pliers and knives. However, the second time it needed changing (about 25 months later) after a lot of tugging and a bit of thought, I arrived at the solution. The only thing that prevents its removal is the piece of rubber on the inner edge which swells when the nut is tightened and stays swollen
    1 point
  22. Chalk another success down to Bob! And genuinely, if I can do it then anyone can - I am the biggest electricity avoider, I barely can bring myself to touch something electrical even if it's unplugged and I'm holding the plug in my hand. 3 year old Beko Washer/Dryer stopped working, I googled what the problem was and came across this thread which listed the exact fault. I bought a USB soldering iron as advised on here, I bought the diodes (although ordered 5A by mistake, so had to re-order 2A) - I had the same issues getting the black box out as many on here had - every time I had to for
    1 point
  23. Just wanted to close the loop on this: took me a while to get parts (LG 5220FR2075L & 5220FR2006H) and arrange for repair help, but replacing the two water inlet control valves above did solve the problem. The leak was on the cold side, but it made sense once all the trouble had been gone through to unstack the dryer and open up the washer to replace both valves. Thanks.
    1 point
  24. Here are some more photos.... the first is with both the fan box and the hot air box. They do both come out fairly easily, the fan box just pushes into the back of the drum, but remember to retrieve the rubber, slightly square seal, and reseat properly. In terms of access, if you tilt the machine then the drum moves giving you access to various bolts etc without having to take too much apart. Lastly, I use little pictures and cardboard and push the screws through as I remove them so I know where they go back and in what order. Here are all the screws you need to remove to get to
    1 point
  25. Mine was the recirculation pump. I changed it on the weekend and the noise has stopped.
    1 point
  26. New PCB seems to have fixed it. This would have been a very expensive gamble if not for your advice! Thank you for that.
    1 point
  27. Thanks Bob - decided to go for the slightly uprated 2A diode instead of running with the 5A - extra day wait from Farnell, but here's another success story after a 2 minute, £2 repair to my Beko WDR7543121W washer/dryer, which also just stopped working overnight. Beko probably don't give a monkey's that they have a batch of PCBs with a poor quality component on them and to be fair, it's not wholly Beko's fault. I'd be interested to know if there is a particular manufacture date affected by this. For info, my machine was bought on 11th August 2018 and failed on 5th September 2020.
    1 point
  28. Hi there, would just like to say a big ' Thank You' to bob12241 for his Beko washer/dryer 'Diode' fix, and thanks also to jonboyuk for the extra photos provided and info., the D7 diode fix worked a treat on our model WDR7543121S, sourced the part on a well known auction site in the end to enable a quicker delivery. Thanks again bob12241, your efforts and information have helped to keep washing machine costs for so many people. Kind Regards Tony
    1 point
  29. Thanks for the update. Make sure they don't fob you off with an, "I can't see anything wrong" report. Make sure you have a wash load already in the machine that you know has caused it to trip and make sure he fills it with water to make them properly heavy before testing on spin. Otherwise some engineers are likely to just test the machine with an insulation test meter where they are unlikely to find anything because it only trips at the end of spin. Then they may put it on spin (usually without asking for a test load) and of course it won't trip. Then they'll say they can't find anything (unl
    1 point
  30. Thanks for your reply - unfortunately I did contact Ransom spares first who were at a loss as to what size was needed and it was they who advised me to get in touch with Hotpoint. Luckily my husband has already replaced bearings on other machines - successfully so instead of a new machine it's worth laying out around £20 to give it a try!! When I do find out the bearing sizes I shall post on here to let other people know.
    1 point
  31. Hi, thanks for getting back to me, I have contacted Miele for some tech. support.
    1 point
  32. Well, finally got a warranty repair on this (and it might be that the dryer system for the WT2780 is different from older models such as the WT945). Shall post details under a new title, so easier to find for anyone else pulling their hair out.
    1 point
  33. Hi Andy, Update: I ordered 2 new brushes and when I got home tonight and when I opened up and looked in the machine I realised they are very similar but the incorrect part. I did however notice that out of the 2 brushes only one of them were connecting with the armature. I removed the one that was not touching and the carbon popped out futher which then allowed me to reseat and have both brushes now touching the armature. I can a wash with a few shirts in an it run perfect. I then ran with more of a half load and it run for 30 mins untill it came to a stop after strug
    1 point
  34. Hi again, >>I also checked out six other well-known washing machine brands and they are all exactly the same. Two stars, one star, "<< yeah, think you are right there. If I hadn't been so exhausted reading through every single Miele entry, I had intended to do the same! (Ironically, one of the few companies to get 3+ stars is.. Indesit, i.e. el cheapo) I agree about the reviews being skewed to people who complain (as they are more likely to vent their feelings than satisfied people) - shame the National Appliance Federation or whatever it is called does not mandate an ind
    1 point
  35. Andy , jonboyuk, Can't fault your replies, great job by jonboyuk. Sometimes you forget what comes naturally to some people is complicated to others. Maybe I should have taken the same steps as you did. But it's done now and with style. Will definitely be useful to anyone that takes the time to read all the posts. Question for Andy, can you put an amendment to the subject header to include other models affected, as google search isn't showing them yet? as it appears I can't edit my original post. Great work Rob
    1 point
  36. Hi there. I've now written a new article specifically about this, which is hopefully of some use/interest - Is washing machine taking in enough water?
    1 point
  37. Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
    1 point
  38. I was replacing a die cast hinge on my machine where a lug had snapped, located on eBay for approx £10-£15 depends on who you trust to go with....or Bosh direct for £20ish. OK it sounded a bit traumatic whilst you do it but but the flat head screwdriver is the approach. Remove the door from the machine (2mm star head screwdriver). On the back of the door is a locating slot, use a flathead to prise off the facia. Work around the door, there are approx 10 sets of lugs. They are only ribs and so don’t snap, although it sounds like they are. Might be worth trying at the hinge area
    1 point
  39. I think you may have just saved my sanity! I've tried everything, cleaned it the drawer, made sure there were no kinks in the hose, cleaned the filter, tried it on different wash settings. It's been doing this for a year, manual says nothing on it! Thought maybe it was an uneven load warning. It does it on different stages of the cycle so just couldn't work it out. I've just pressed the delay button and voila! No beeping. How did you know how to solve it? And why does this solve it?!
    1 point
  40. Thank you Andy - that's really helpful.
    1 point
  41. Hi, I had the same issue with a Beko washing machine. Tried cleaning and checking for blockages but nothing. E18 according to many sites is apparently about an uneven wash and the advice was not any good ( turning machine off and on, taking some of the washing out to reduce the load, taking the detergent tray out and back in) and didn’t solve the problem. I read that it might be related to the door (inter)lock and replaced this, which was fairly easy. Closed the door. Turned the machine on and it seemed to finish doing something. Then it was good to go. Problem solved. Hope this helps
    1 point
  42. Thanks Rob, my machine experience exactly the same problem. Your guide saved me at least £100.
    1 point
  43. As a follow up to this I have had an engineer out to my machine. The bearings went and he came and fitted a whole new drum - it is now washing much more quietly and spinning better - but the beeping persisted. In fact it had progressed to a series of 3, 4, 5 or 7 beeps, at various stages in the wash. I rang Hotpoint and asked them what this meant but was told the only answer was to have the engineer back. I was a bit reluctant to do that as it was performing fine - surely someone there must know if they were error codes - but no. Engineer duly came back yesterday, ran the diagnostics and s
    1 point
  44. Quick update, seems to have self-resolved after 48 hours. Wondering if there was water on the board.
    1 point
  45. Hi Andy I followed your steps above I then got my camera phone and took a video around the pipe. It seems i was 3 mm out and the marker marks helped me locate the exact position along with your link above. I can successfully confirm the Leak has stopped. So now I need to re-run through the electrical tips above and ensure its not a neural problem before a new element is ordered. Many Thanks
    1 point
  46. Update: The black sooty deposit is just that - soot. Friend suggested it was from the bushes being attracted by the magnetism in the choke. I've cleaned it all off now. Checked a few parts and that blackened resistor next to the larger blue cap had gone open circuit. Replaced it but it blew with a puff of smoke when I switched back on. And now there's no lights on at all. Back to the drawing board. Any, and all, suggestions gratefully accepted. Wouldn't want to get an expensive new board, or a new machine, when it could just be a part that needs replacing.
    1 point
  47. Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry
    1 point
  48. I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat
    1 point
  49. I THINK YOU GOT IT!!!! I have connected the right spring (the one with yellow marking) in the wrong slot. Sh*******T. I am lucky that it did not break! I confirmed it by looking at the video I followed to change the bearings. Right now a washing is running. As soon as it is done, I guess I will have to open the machine again, take down all the weights and then reattach it in the right slot. Or do you think I can do it (re-fit the spring) with care without opening everything up again? THANKS YOU SO MUCH!
    1 point

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