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  1. Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
    4 points
  2. Hi, if I remember correctly, there are screws on the outside that have to be removed, directly behind the clips. Also it may have the wiring harness cable tied, cut these. Regards Rob
    2 points
  3. My washer door is the same with a broken door hinge lug. I drilled the tops off the heat moulded lug tops (careful not to drill into the inside cover. The cover came away with ease. I did not have time to source a new hinge so I drilled a 5.2mm hole thro the hinge (where the lug had broken) tapped it M6 and fitted a pan head bolt with the thread portion protruding outwards 9.5mm (locktighted the thread) . popped on the plastic cap after wrapping a little PTFE tape over the thread. To refit the hinge I needed to cut away thin portion of plastic webbing to clear the bolt head. Refitted the inner cover making sure the door latch was under the cover and drilled into retaining lugs with a 2mm diameter drill (not too deep). This is important to stop the lugs from splitting) I fixed the cover with thin wood screws and a washer. Success.
    2 points
  4. Have a Beko wdx8543130w washer/dryer, completely dead. Beko wanted either £130 minimum for a call out, or £174 for a years extended warranty. Followed the instructions as given in this thread, fitted a new diode, now works perfectly. Thank you very much to Bob and everyone else who has contributed to this forum. This is clearly a manufacturing fault that Beko are profiting hugely from, every time they replace a board, they are replacing it with the same type of faulty board that will break again! disgusting. Thanks again to everyone here, saving people thousands.
    2 points
  5. Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
    2 points
  6. Hi Andy, thanks for that. I suppose I should explain the background. I don't need the machine to work at all as I have a spare, but all the same, it's still better than a Candy. I'm not sure the bearing seal needs a sealant, but I've always felt a shaft seal will bed in better (especially on a used shaft) if it has a touch of lubrication. A friend of mine who used to work in the Italian "Rex" (now part of Electrolux) washing machine factory seemed to agree, but we never got into the finer details of what type of grease. He suggested checking the seal was correctly seated which it seems to be. The machine was 20 years old from a medium-sized household including a man with incontinence, and it's obvious it has had a lot of use. It was a project I took on for the fun of it if I'm remotely honest. "Rinses" light was flashing indicating a motor circuit fault, but a new relay and fuse on the PCB, new (pattern) shock absorbers (which appear to be little different from the originals), and a new front bearing put it firmly back in the useable category, although the door glass has severe scratching. A lot of faff, but the total for spare parts came to €45, which I was happy with. The hose that feeds the tub from the dispenser had cracked and was leaking. I used silicone sealant to repair as a new hose was £58 (though I am tempted to stretch to this). The Miele bearing seal (having checked again) is over £100. Obviously you should ideally also replace the spider, but this is a Miele from the period when the spider was being made from a zinc alloy (Miele tells me it has gone back to using stainless now) and I've previously had a price of £450 for this spare, which is obviously not affordable. So, while a new Miele of this quality would be around the £900 mark, just the three genuine parts above would reach £600, which is, I understand, a gripe of yours. Such a pity the ISE project seems to have come to a halt.
    1 point
  7. Thanks for your reply Andy, This one definitely has an electric wire in the outer tube and I can't imagine that the outer area is a vacuum so the presenece of a tear might not be a problem. If the electric wire can "sense" water and causes a solenoid to close then I might be ok. I'll try test my theory out. Appreciate your help. Martin
    1 point
  8. Hello John. That's interesting. I've never heard of any washing machine that controls water levels in any other way than detecting the actual level of water. That's what the pressure switch is for. I can't imagine any manufacturer would ever do a timed fill. I might be misunderstanding how you tested it but if you use two washing machines in the same house with the same water pressure they should take exactly the same amount of time to fill. If a washing machine fills for a set time some washing machines will end up with nowhere near enough water, not even enough water to cover the heating element which would cause the heating element to melt and distort and potentially even set laundry on fire. Others would have way too much water in.
    1 point
  9. Excellent. That’s a faulty connection alright. Well played.
    1 point
  10. I did notice some very slight burn marks on a couple of the connector plastic blocks for the main PCB but the contacts looked good. I will double check them tomorrow and clean with electrical contact cleaner. That's interesting the open circuit motor! I will strip it down and update asap. Thanks for all the help Andy! 🙂
    1 point
  11. Just double check the motor connector and the carbon brushes in the motor. I’ve just remembered that in some of those machines if the motor is open circuit the machine goes dead but all lights are on.
    1 point
  12. Hi. If it’s not new it should already be configured as you say so it’s probably not that. Is it possible the connectors are wrong way round or mixed up?
    1 point
  13. Wow that's a big electrical short. This is a difficult one. It's a good job you didn't spend potentially over a hundred pounds on a new pcb. It's possible the control board was damaged when the pcb shorted out. It may not necessarily have visible damage (although worth checking) but a component could be damaged. Some of the pcbs need configuring with a special tool or laptop with special software, although that one looks relatively old fashioned. I can't say either way for sure. To be honest if a board shorts out like that I usually advise it's not worth pursuing as you never know what other damage happened. If really determined you could try sending the boards to somewhere like QER electronic repairs for testing.
    1 point
  14. Just checking back to report on the latest development on my lovely Miele Top Loader. I ordered an original Miele heating element from espares in Ireland maybe a month back. It was around €100 but that`s OK for genuine replacement parts (wouldn`t want it any other way) Since replacing the two drum bearings with non original bearings a couple years back, i managed to damage the outer drum that contains the washing water (while elevating it) so water would leak during washing on the side opposite of the engine and belt drive etc. It took some guesswork but it looks like i nailed it in the end. The old heating element must have burned up a long time ago since there was little or no water to dissipate the 2100 watts of heat. I took the time and loosened the retaining "lip" and slowly but surely removed the thin stainless steel drum wall after removing the cast iron weight which was a pain to remove because of all the bolts but is doable. There was a LOT of grease and old dirt on the drum wall so cleaned it to perfection. Also cleaned the rubber gasket and put it back on but ofcourse now knowing it can not be trusted to be watertight...i decided to flood the whole lower 180 degree gasket area with a metric ton of Tec7 sealant. IT WORKED ! Put it all back and hoped for the best. Now there`s not a drop of water coming through the drum So...i knew i could now go ahead and install the new heating element. Happy to report the machine now runs like new and all the washing programs that took like 3-4 hours to complete now only take like 60-90 minutes. So that right there is a good indicator the heating element is dead in the water and needs replacing 😉 I can`t believe i did all this work, but the simple fact is i did and it worked out in the end. I will probably need to replace the two shock absorbers soon but that is a walk in the park compared, lol. Funny to note i found a sticker under the right rubber lip where you put the laundry inside and it said march 8th, 1999. TTFN...
    1 point
  15. Great forum here. Great discussion. I have my own story to tell... We have this Bosch 7/4 Maxx washer dryer combo that is six years old (WVH28340EU/01). We only used the dryer function on our bathroom towels and dry everything else on the rack. Bed sheets hang on doors. Towels dried on the rack feel like sandpaper. so yeah, we tumble dry the towels. A complete wash/dry cycle takes forever so my wife used to set the timer before bedtime and the towels would be fresh & warm when we woke up in the morning. Life is so good when things work like they are supposed to. Then it (the Gentle & Intensive dry functions) stopped working. The circuit breaker to the washer (and fridge) popped in the night. I prefer to fix things myself and I really tried to diagnose and fix this problem. I gave up. Google was not helpful. It was almost useless. So I called an appliance repairman... sorry, engineer, which I found, of course, on Google. It did not go well. We simply moved from simply useless to worse-than-useless. To be continued... /2
    1 point
  16. Just an update - Beko engineer attended this afternoon - had to replace two components, one was a capacitor and the other was a PCB. he suggested one caused the other, but unsure why it happened. I asked if it was unusual for a 3 week old machine to need two components replacing, he said he had never seen a new range go after 3 weeks anyway its all fixed now - im a little nervous with a new machine needing new parts straight away..........
    1 point
  17. Hello Bob, I found this forum from a Google Search. I've had the same problem on my Beko which is about 2 years old. one day later on Easter monday and replaced the same D7 Diode...with a 3 Amp 100V version Diode.. and all working.. thank you Bob for this Forum and all contributors. i'll be writing to Beko. I'll donate some money to charity in recognition of the money saved.. all the best Sean
    1 point
  18. Thanks so much bob12241. With a little patience and lots of knowledge from yourself and others on this board, I fixed it with the new diode (D7). You are a star!!
    1 point
  19. Dead Beko WDIX7523000 which is just over two years old. Called Beko who arranged a repair via Domestic and General but after a visit by an engineer who diagnosed it as a failed circuit board we then recieved a letter saying it couldn't be repaired as it was over the value allowed with the fixed price of the care package, this was then canceled so no charge. Not to be defeated I got the multi meter out after finding this site and sure enough it was the same board and diode D7 had failed. Very simple repair and the machine is now running fine. Poorly designed circuit.
    1 point
  20. Yes unfortunately motors are very expensive these days. If you fit new brushes and the motor is still sparking and struggling to run smoothly or maintain speed then either the brushes have not bedded in, not been fitted the right way round (which theoretically can happen), or maybe the armature that the brushes run on is too badly worn. If by any chance the brushes were fitted the wrong way round they would make quite a loud clatter to sound like an old football rattle. I have an article here about this problem which you should check out Fitted new carbon brushes but the motor is sparking now
    1 point
  21. Someone round here was collecting for Dementia UK so I hope that's a good enough one for you. I bunged them a tenner. Again, thanks Bob
    1 point
  22. Just replaced my D7 diode and it’s back up and running. Thank goodness for Bob putting in the time to diagnose the fault and also take the time to share his knowledge with us all on here. Legend.
    1 point
  23. about 2 months ago... been working fine since...
    1 point
  24. Reawakening this topic...... Same machine, no heat when drying, trip pops, reset trip, pops after a while drying. Look on this forum (thanks everyone for posting) for info to get the fan off — struggle as you all have here - why did they design this machine in this way? Eventually lift fan enough to examine fan blades - big disappointment - hardly any fluff deposit! So figure that the blockage may be further along maybe in the tunnel over the drum to the front door seal area? Decide I need a thin torx driver rather than my hex set as it won’t fit through the frame holes - but no - someone has been here before me and not refitted the screws! Only been a BG service engineer inside prior to my visit..! So will separate top of the heater box assembly and check for blockage next, this being easier with two less screws. Tomorrow. No patience left now ! Will update with progress in case others have had these issues, but with an unclogged fan.
    1 point
  25. Hello. The noise sounds like either carbon brushes or the raised segment. To be perfectly honest if an amateur has a raised segment this means it is loose and I would not keep using it. The motor could burn out at any time. Take the brushes out and see if they are damaged. A raised segment will usually damage carbon brushes too. With the brushes out place your finger on the commutator and slowly turn it round. If one segment is definitely raised each revolution then the motor is shocked and it needs replacing. Back in the day we used to just replace the armature which was extremely easy these days it's very unlikely that you could buy an armature as manufacturers usually only make a complete motor available.
    1 point
  26. Disassembly had to wait to the weekend and it wasn’t until the drum was removed did the issue make itself clear. Corroded Spider. Attached photo for reference. I’m still slightly puzzled that it wasn’t more obvious before taking it all apart but never mind! New parts ordered. Thanks for all the advice. Great forum.
    1 point
  27. Well, finally managed to get the dryer part working again - though possibly helped by the fact I still have a couple of years of a 10-year warranty to go. (I've posted the history leading up to getting this repair elsewhere in this forum - First of all, I have to say that the Miele warranty repair admin seemed OK - in other words when I phoned them I got through pretty quickly, they found my warranty details and then made an appointment about 10 days away, then did text me the day before as a reminder. So, that part works. The phone was answered by a nice enough young kid - but he was clearly trained in how to push blame for any washer-dryer failure promptly back to the customer: After explaining symptoms (no fault code, but no hot air for dry/steam, horrible white gunge being put onto washing in drum during every other wash) he asked me "and are you aware of the Rinse Out Fluff feature?" Could have been my imagination, but the way it tripped off his tongue meant that he was well used to asking that question and getting a confused 'No?' from the owner (after all, the RoF feature is only mentioned in the middle of the lengthy manual, which probably half the customer base will never bother to read). "Yes", I said tartly, knowing what was going to be coming next. "Right... and have you remembered to use it AFTER EVERY DRYING CYCLE?!" - Again, the rising tone in his voice suggested that many of the poor s*ds who answered "Yes" to the first question might have made the mistake of answering "No" to this second question. I could have wasted a bit of time by reminding him that the language in the Manual regarding the RoF feature was not exactly apocalyptic: "Run the Rinse out fluff programme before the machine is used again so that fluff cannot be deposited on the next load (e.g. fluff from dark garments being deposited on lighter coloured items) or cause a blockage." And this just located on p.45 in the manual. (As we now know, for many Miele Washer/Dryer owners, the RoF feature should really be in red ink, with words along the lines of "Please remember that if you don't use the RoF function immediately after every single use of the drying function, your £2000 machine is likely to break down just after the 2-year warranty expires and cost you upwards of £500 to repair. Your call") After all the hours wasted researching this fault, I decided to be polite but firm "Yes, every time. And I am well aware that this issue is due to a design fault common in Miele Washer-Driers, whereby soap powder congeals along the hot air system and cannot be cleaned out by the end-user, thus leading to issues with the safety thermostat and other parts." What was interesting was that as soon I said this, he did not faff around going off to 'ask his supervisor' or similar, but immediately booked the call. It is possible that he and other customer-facing colleagues know the issue with the washer-dryers, and so when confronted with someone who clearly knows it too, they give up trying to blind customers with science. Anyhow, the repair guy duly arrived and fortunately he was not a dud. He was excellent, very efficient, actually able to work on the machine at the same time as discussing it, and very loyal to the company (probably too loyal - he avoided giving too much away about these dryer issues when asked direct questions). I had been ready for an engineer who simply walked in, reset the thermostat and walked out - but as soon as he stepped through the door he said 'This will take about 2 hours', so I knew that either he was going to do a full dryer system clean out or parts replacement. Turned out to be the latter, i.e. he brought a top element box and fan, and a long plastic oblong duct thing, which I believe connects the heater to the suds container below? Pleased to say that when he took the various panels off, the machine itself inside looked very clean - which of course it should do after we have religiously bought and used all the various over-priced Miele de-lousers, and given the fact that it has probably only had the equivalent of 3-4 years use, if that. The key question - how the supposedly intelligent electronics could not detect that the heater was no longer heating and display an error code - was one he couldn't answer, or maybe preferred not to (I assume the real answer is along the lines of "yeah, I know people pay £2k for these machines, but the design guys don't think it worth putting in another temperature sensor that would pick up on the fact that no hot air is coming out during a drying cycle ..." As someone who generally respects German design, I was still intrigued as to whether this dryer failure issue was just a design flaw in my machine series and older, so asked if the drying system was the same in the new means. "Yes, fortunately!" he answered enthusiastically. This did perplex me a little - I can only assume that most repair guys take the view "sure, the system our machines use gets gunged up and conks even if you do use the RoF feature, but at the end of the day all we need to do is replace these two parts and it is rendered as good as new - and of course Miele customers can afford to pay, otherwise they would not be buying machines that are 2-3 times the price of the competition" A warning to anyone just about to purchase a new Miele washer/dryer I guess. Some might say that I am being a little harsh, but I know exactly how well cared for this machine has been, and how we have always used the RoF feature after every dry - so heaven help a harassed mum/dad with 4 kids and 12 wash/dries a week and no time to read the manual or use all the various Miele machine cleaning products. I'd have more respect for Miele if they took two simple steps - #1, move the Rinse Out Fluff instruction to page 1 of the manual or maybe #2 simply build a Rinse Out Fluff cycle into every drying cycle (you open the door, take the dried clothes out, slam the door, it RoFs and then turns off). While we are at it, maybe #3 - spend a Euro or two on putting another over-heat sensor near the heating element that gets gunged up, so that at least the machine gives a reliable error code - I never got the infamous '55' error displayed, which for all I know meant that the fan stopped working but the element was left getting hotter than a nuclear reaction inside my white box. BTW, out of interest, I downloaded the Manual for their newest, priciest washer-dryer, to see if it had been updated in anway - nope, same wishy-washy text re Rinse Out Fluff, buried deep in the centre. Fingers crossed that when ours goes again, it is in the week before the expiry of the warranty... Thanks to the various people here who contributed info that enabled me to talk knowledgeably to Service Centre and so secure a decent repair first time around. J For google: Miele washer dryer WT2780 WT 2780 drying problems issues cold air no 55 error message debris gunge white grey on clothes Waschtrockner lave-linge sechant
    1 point
  28. Just watched a good video on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPT1_ao0wkE
    1 point
  29. Nice album Curses-upon- Beko, Only one thing I feel I should point out and that is when testing a diode in circuit you can get confusing readings, if readings are not 100% in fault then it is advisable to de-solder 1 leg and test, thus isolating it from other components. Your readings definitely gave it as dead, whereas mine were not 100%,this affected another diode readings close by (D6).
    1 point
  30. This happened to me today in two loads. A pair of white jeans is completely covered in dark grey long streaks that look like grease. After reading all of the above, I think it was due to a full load and the jeans (as well as some towels) being dragged around the crevice of the rubber door seal. There was quite a build up of dark grey gunk, and I grabbed a cloth and also cleaned the clear plastic door build up of lint. It left quite dark marks on the cloth. I'm just hoping prewash stain remover will get the marks out, othewise I guess I'm dying the jeans. Machine: Bosch WVG28420AU 8kg/4.5kg Serie 6 Washer Dryer Combo; Age: about 8 months old.
    1 point
  31. Thanks Andy Checked the brushes, low and behold both of down to almost nothing. Got new spares and fitted them it started up straight away and has been running fine. Small bit of rattling noise from drum but running like new again. Cheers
    1 point
  32. Just in case anyone wonders what happened - replacing this wiring harness has solved the problem. Maybe I didn't describe it very well initially? We paid £30 for an initial call out. £90 for the parts and labour, with the original £30 then deducted, so a grand total of £90 which, although ridiculous on such a new appliance, wasn't too hard to swallow!
    1 point
  33. Hi. This fault could be caused by many different things. All possible causes are in this article drum not turning
    1 point
  34. In case anyone's interested, it was the display pcb. I ended up also ordering the rotary switch and replacing that too for good measure, Still half the price of getting a Hoover Candy technician out (even with replacement parts still under warranty) and tell me that the part needs to be ordered in and installed in two weeks.
    1 point
  35. Hello Tom. It's difficult to hear anything drastically wrong there although I can hear a strange noise high-pitched noise every so often. The main thing I noticed is that the drum and motor seem to be running quite unevenly. Was there a small load of laundry in when you took the video? It looked as if there was an unbalanced load in there, which can stop it from going into a fast spin. It might be better to try running it again without any laundry in at all.
    1 point
  36. Hi everyone, just to comment that with all your help I've got my Beko WDR75431215 back up and running! Our machine is only about 2 years old so was pretty dismayed when it wouldn't turn on. I haven't done any electrics before other than gcse physics 15 years ago - at the time I couldn't have been less interested in circuit boards. Was pretty daunting resoldering the diode so I'm absolutely buzzing to report it worked! Cheers Bob and others
    1 point
  37. Hi thanks Andy it has been noisy for a wee while.so probably better off buying new ,this one ows us nothing.
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. Useful article, I'm convinced it's something obstructing the ball in the sump hose..just can't get the bugger off .. Local repair guy coming out Sat morning, hopefully he can diagnose or its a new washer After I replaced the double cold inlet a few weeks ago because it wasn't filling up properly I thought I was home and dry..at least for a few weeks until this! Thanks for your help
    1 point
  40. Pump fitted a charm, great advice thanks..didn't solve the problem though it's draining but at a trickle..I can see the impeller running so the pump must be fine Can only think now there must be a blockage in the sump pipe from the drum to the drain pump, I'm going to take this off next and have a look but I don't have the tools for it as these are threaded screw hose clips and the screw head is pointing toward the drum casing and will require some offset screwdriver which I don't currently possess.. what happened to good old fashioned jubilee clips!
    1 point
  41. New PCB seems to have fixed it. This would have been a very expensive gamble if not for your advice! Thank you for that.
    1 point
  42. Hello Rollcage. Unfortunately something went wrong with email delivery and I got no notifications at all but I just thought the forum had gone quiet :-) Of course it's completely typical that it never does it while you are videoing. Unbelievable, yet so typical. The only thing you can do is persevere until you catch it or pay an independent engineer to thoroughly inspect it and hope it finds something. Please keep us informed and good luck.
    1 point
  43. Weird... I keep posting a reply but it never shows up! Again... 5 hours ago, Whitegoodshelp (Andy) said: I've also long thought that renting Miele washing machine out would be a great business though I hadn't thought of Miele themselves doing it, which I like. If I see your face beaming out of a Miele magazine ad announcing this service, I'll want my cut... ;o) Yes, the cabinet (of our 8yr old machine at least) is as good as they make out, very tough. And good to know the bearings are well made. The biggie for me is also the drum suspension, which obviously makes for absolutely zero bouncing due to heavy items (unlike our new AEG washer-dryer elsewhere, which has clearly not been engineered properly) and zero noise. The pound-coin-on-its-side test is still impressive. Interesting what you say about BMWs and Mercs - I think all of this has its origins in the 80's, when 'branding' took off as well as corporate greed. For years now I've told people that in many cases their £100 shirt was made in the same factory as the £5 jobbie at Primark, but people can't believe it. What happened was that ACTUAL quality (that you could feel, and see) was replaced by the PERCEIVED quality and status value of the brand. So execs pushed to see how far they could reduce production costs, without the brand value appearing to be hurt. In most cases they were probably surprised to see just how low they could go - I know someone who works in the fashion industry and she says there are 'snob' brands out there who went downhill 20 years ago yet customers are only now realising. I tend to believe that family companies - maybe through inertia rather than intention - often are the last to reduce quality, because they have more emotional ties to the brand. This may be the case with Miele who, I think, also continue to manufacture a lot of their kit in high-wage Germany rather than cynically closing factories and moving all production to a low-wage economy. I do wonder why Miele don't have any competition from Asko or V-Zug over here (which I understand don't get sold here?) - complacency is always a bad sign with a company. Not waving the Union Jack, but I would assume there are still some great engineers here in the UK, so maybe given the Brexit we are now facing, some firm could come up with a limited line of competing units to Miele, and thereby 'encourage' them not to treat us like a captive market. Looking at the Ebac machines (awful name, even if founder is laudable in turning company into a trust) they seem to have plastic drums. Maybe if they took the product upmarket a bit (steel drum, suspension* etc.) they could ventue into Miele territory - they already have the 7yr warranty, which is enough to make me sit up (though hardly any retailers by the look of it?) Actually given Mr Elliott is clearly a great role model and bright (left school at 15 and is now a benevolent millionaire) I'd love someone to set him the challenge of building a reliable washer-dryer. If he managed that, what with dwelling sizes getting smaller by the day, I reckon he'd have a market. Especially of former Miele washer-dryer owners!! *having seen a video of the Ebac, suspension and noise levels seem pretty good.
    1 point
  44. Thanks very much kind sir you've given me am idea to diagnose my own problem with a washer dryer.
    1 point
  45. Hi there, would just like to say a big ' Thank You' to bob12241 for his Beko washer/dryer 'Diode' fix, and thanks also to jonboyuk for the extra photos provided and info., the D7 diode fix worked a treat on our model WDR7543121S, sourced the part on a well known auction site in the end to enable a quicker delivery. Thanks again bob12241, your efforts and information have helped to keep washing machine costs for so many people. Kind Regards Tony
    1 point
  46. Hi. I might be misunderstanding but it sounds like the pump impeller which if it’s come off the shaft will mean the pump will no longer pump water?
    1 point
  47. It only ruddy works! @bob12241 .. please PM me your PayPal address.. I'd like to buy you some beer (virtually)
    1 point
  48. Looked at inner drum its slightly forward and rotates off centre compared with the rim of the outer drum probably 10mm out( it looks worse than the measurement suggests, but not any noise and not loose, do they normally rotate pretty much central can they be adjusted? Stripping drum down later
    1 point
  49. Not sure what happened there, tried attaching a pic to this post and it only posted the pic. HI. I bought a new spider arm and new bearings, even though they both looked fine, as I couldn't see what else it could possibly be. however on stripping the machine down, when I removed the motor, I discovered two of the rubbers that hold the motor to the drum, had disintegrated. With the motor in place, I couldn't see this, I suspect that was the problem, hence at slow speeds the motor wasn't rocking but was at faster speeds. The spares companies and Samsung (emailed them to check) do not sell these rubbers separate from the motor (complete con), they probably come in a box of 500 for about £5. I read on a forum somewhere about someone having Samsung out under the warranty and they replaced them so they must have them as spares. I bought a couple of round rubbers at a local motor factors that were similar in size, fixed them to my drill by putting a bolt through them, then turned the drill on and held it against a belt sender, that sanded them down, keeping them perfectly round. It was a struggle getting them into the holes (used washing up liquid and brute force) Machines been perfect since, and I honestly think I wasted money replacing bearings and spider arm, I suspect the rubber on the motor was the cause all along. I would remove your motor and check the rubbers before doing anything else. Attached a pic showing the rubber in the motor. The red arrows point to one washer going through the motor bracket, when I removed the bolts, instead of the rubber going right through, all I had was what looked like two round washers as the inside had totally turned to dust. So you can look at it without removing the bolts and it looks like the rubbers fine as you still see both sides, it's not until the bolts are removed that you see the middles turned to dust. Hope that's of some use. The spider arm cost me £85 delivered, I got the bearings at a local bearing company for about £7 (instead of the £25+ the washing machine spares companies wanted online) , and I bought a new bearing seal seal for £16 delivered, my thinking being it should now last me many more years. I had to take the plastic drum apart to do this, and while the seal between the two halves looked fine, I also spent about £5 on sealant that I put over the seal to make sure I had a water tight drum. In addition to this I had to buy thread locker for another £7 (got the one in a lipstick kind of dispenser so ave loads left for another use) and had to give my local exhaust place a drink for them removing the nut holding the spider arm on with their air tools as I couldn't budge it So I ended up spending about £135 on parts, plus an annoying £12 on phone calls to Espares (they said it was 5p a min, not sure how it worked out at £12, but I'm not alone in being hacked off at this, wasn't going to phone them to argue). My presumption being that hopefully the machine lasts just as long again. But again I THINK I wasted most of it and all I needed to do was replace the motor rubbers. Note, most, if not all the internet spares companies are the same company under many different names. I phoned three times, once to enquire about the spider arm and once to enquire about the rubber for the motors. . Once I was was cut off wile on hold, hence my 3 calls. I was not impressed to find the calls cost me £12, so I wouldn't recommend phoning them under any circumstance.
    1 point

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