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  1. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  3. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  4. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  5. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  6. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  7. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  8. 2 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  9. 1 point
    Hi Andy, and thanks for continuing to keep this site going - very handy Let me see if I can find the research I did on this on my PC.... [10 minutes later] sorry can't find the actual review which mentioned this. However I do remember the details - the customer had the same issue as me (Miele FF conked at 2.5 years) and a decent Miele repair guy had said that they estimated about 1-2% of the FFs came out of the (Liebeherr?) factory with this as a potential inherent defect (something to do with the gas and tubing) and that the main way to recognise a faulty unit was the type of noise coming from the rear. Personally I always leave 24 hours before switching on any fridge unit after moving, so not due to that! Apologies, I might have been too vague in saying that a 'cracking' noise was a definite indicator - as you say, even the replacement model I was given (and which has worked fine for 7.5 years) makes a cracking sound now and then. Looking back, the noise from the first, faulty model was much louder and sort-of-different. I think the review I noticed was actually left on the Which? website - interestingly Which? took the unilateral decision to stop allowing people to comment on Product Review pages, probably because so many (coherent) reviews were posted contradicting their glowing reviews (including Which? members who pay almost a £10 a month for their sub). Which? had reviewed lots of Miele FFs and given them Best Buy status a few years back - then all of a sudden they seemed to stop reviewing the brand range, which seemed odd. At the moment there are only 1-2 listed. As much as, like you, I love my Miele for its washing performance and solid feel, if you haven't gone over and looked at the Miele Great Britain pages on Trustpilot, worth doing - in between the usual unrealistic ranters there is quite a fascinating thread of customer experiences! (For balance, have to say my fairly basic Miele dishwasher has worked faultlessly for almost 10 years, as has my 15 year old Miele vacuum with powered head). Wonder if Miele allow customer visits to their washing machine factories these days? Always enjoyable to see how things are made.
  10. 1 point
    I have exactly the same problem.. Hotpoint WMEF742 bleeps at random throughout the wash cycle. It started doing it when machine was about 5 years old? Water pressure fine so definitely not that. Often completes a cycle with no bleeps at all. Heats up and washes fine. I have just pressed the delay timer button as advised by someone previously and the bleeping has stopped! The manufacturer must be aware of this obvious fault as there are so many people posting on here with the same problem?
  11. 1 point
    Check whether your machine is on the recall list first, a potential fire is a lot worse. Check / clean the pump filter. If that doesn't resolve it then pressing the Delay button once during the cycle should temporarily stop the beeping until the next wash.
  12. 1 point
    This was exactly what happened to my 18 month old beko, I bought a soldering iron and with zero experience replaced the diode and saved myself a small fortune. thanks bob and other posters. as a side note I (stupidly) soldered the diode the wrong way round initially and this resulted in the display flashing slowly on and off. cheers, david
  13. 1 point
    would anyone be able to tell me the rating on the D6 diode just to the right of D7. Like a few others ,want to thank bob12241 for his post. Make that 8 .
  14. 1 point
    Thank you bob12241 , it Is very helpful your post , I had the same Issue with my BEKO WDX8543130W the lights wouldn’t turn on after only 18 months of use , after reading your post I decided to buy the diode from Amazon and ask my friend to change it for me , it turned out he couldn’t do it for another week , so I decided to give it a try , I read all your posts and changed the diode by myself, it worked , my wash machine is working normally, I am feeling like a Wonder Woman . I am still quite upset this happened cos Beko should be responsible for that , or even currys , they should know the machine is faulty for lots of people and refund or exchange it . Anyway , I am going back to currys with that matter . Just wanted to thank you Bob12241 , also thanks to Dave10810 for showing the exact place the diode is . very grateful.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks again to bob12241 for publishing this solution. Such a cheap and easy fix after being pointed in the right direction. Very grateful.
  16. 1 point
    Believe I have sorted it, though would get opinion before I put panels back on though.
  17. 1 point
    Sorry Darren, hadn't spotted your message. reassuring you had same response.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks Andy. It's an absolute disgrace. How hard could it possibly be to make a door interlock of sufficient quality that it does not overheat? I get angry when I hear spokespeople for these manufacturers say that customer safety is their prime concern. If that was the case then appliances in our homes would rarely catch fire. Instead there are thousands of fires every year caused by them. It is an utter disgrace. Going back as long ago as the 1980s I remember Hotpoint door interlock wiring was always overheating. The wires to the door interlock became so overheated that they baked rock solid for at least 2 inches back and had to be cut away and rewired. Sometimes they would melt so badly that the live and neutral would fuse together and short out the washing machine. I defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only possible cause of these parts overheating is poor quality. And I also defy anybody to prove me wrong that the only reason we have poor quality parts is because the people who are making them do not have customer safety as their primary concern. If I am wrong in the last point, then the only alternative explanation is pure incompetence or lack of quality control.
  19. 1 point
    Yes the only way the drum can damage the outer drums like that is if it has come forward but it should be held very tightly in place by the drum pulley at the back. The only other thing that could technically cause it as if somehow something got stuck between the two drums and dragged all the way around it.
  20. 1 point
    Thank you very much Bob for your advice. My washer dryer is doing the same thing and upon removing the board, D7 is faulty. Top man, just waiting for the replacement. Cheers
  21. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same issue with a Beko washing machine. Tried cleaning and checking for blockages but nothing. E18 according to many sites is apparently about an uneven wash and the advice was not any good ( turning machine off and on, taking some of the washing out to reduce the load, taking the detergent tray out and back in) and didn’t solve the problem. I read that it might be related to the door (inter)lock and replaced this, which was fairly easy. Closed the door. Turned the machine on and it seemed to finish doing something. Then it was good to go. Problem solved. Hope this helps others.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Hello! And thank you! An update to what I wrote before: that didn't actually solve the problem. The issue was with a faulty door lock which sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. We changed it and now the machine works. The E18 error is still there, though...
  24. 1 point
    Thanks Rob, my machine experience exactly the same problem. Your guide saved me at least £100.
  25. 1 point
    As a follow up to this I have had an engineer out to my machine. The bearings went and he came and fitted a whole new drum - it is now washing much more quietly and spinning better - but the beeping persisted. In fact it had progressed to a series of 3, 4, 5 or 7 beeps, at various stages in the wash. I rang Hotpoint and asked them what this meant but was told the only answer was to have the engineer back. I was a bit reluctant to do that as it was performing fine - surely someone there must know if they were error codes - but no. Engineer duly came back yesterday, ran the diagnostics and said there is nothing the matter. But it never beeped when new, so surely there was something, especially as the beeps were progressing in number and repetition. As a goodwill gesture he replaced a circuit board in there, and said if it still persisted he would come back and replace the top board. But so far - NO BEEPS!! Success I hope.
  26. 1 point
    Got new set of brushes this morning and put the motor back together this PM... ..... tests complete.... all working again. Thanks for the info Andy, much appreciate the help.
  27. 1 point
    Quick update, seems to have self-resolved after 48 hours. Wondering if there was water on the board.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Andy I followed your steps above I then got my camera phone and took a video around the pipe. It seems i was 3 mm out and the marker marks helped me locate the exact position along with your link above. I can successfully confirm the Leak has stopped. So now I need to re-run through the electrical tips above and ensure its not a neural problem before a new element is ordered. Many Thanks
  29. 1 point
    Thanks Andy - never really thought about a washing machine being dangerous (never leave the dryer on though). Good to know! I'll keep an ear out for it, hopefully it quietens down soon then. Think my previous one must have had an inverter motor, so was much quieter!
  30. 1 point
    Thanks for your help. Luckily it still can be used as its just the temp button and not any other. The cost of a board is stupid and they are very hard to find, so theres no offers anywhere. Ill keep a look out for a used part on ebay. Thanks again
  31. 1 point
    Yeh but given it's a cold wash, I figured the temp sensor wouldn't come into it... I've got a repair guy calling out tomorrow morning. As much fun as it's been dismantling it every night this week, I've run out of patience and time! I'll revert back and let you know what the outcome is. Thanks for all your advice!
  32. 1 point
    Nice one. Fingers crossed.
  33. 1 point
    I had to take the door off to remove the clips that held the drain pipe on the pump. It's all back together now, I tried the drain cycle and, low and behold, it pumped some water out into the pan. Not the full amount, but most of it. I've just put it on a 15 min cycle and I'll see what it does...
  34. 1 point
    Thanks. Will do on bother counts. I'll report back later...
  35. 1 point
    Thankyou Ken Tucky for responding to your own question this sounds much the same problem my daughter has with hers now we can go further with the repair.Thankyou so much
  36. 1 point
    Hello. That sounds like the motor. To troubleshoot a noise when the drum turns you need to take off the drive belt and make sure it's not catching on the drum pulley at the back. Then spin the drum by hand again. If the noise is still there it's related to the drum, drum bearings or something stuck in the drum. If the noise has gone then it has to be the motor or in some rare cases even the drive belt.
  37. 1 point
    The resoldering of the diode worked perfect! Bought a USB powered soldering iron from Amazon for £6 and it's perfect for soldering electronics, bought a diode for £3, cheap repair, thank you!
  38. 1 point
    bob12241 - Top work! I had the same fault, quick and easy fix with the replacement diode (although I went with the same diode rating; if it faults again I will go straight back to check D7 as my first check). A nice easy quick video on testing diodes should you require it: Thanks Joe
  39. 1 point
    I just wanted to comment, that you bob12241 are absolutely epic and my hero, big time. Yesterday my WDIR7543101 Beko stopped working, had this quite beeping sound when plugged but no power on front panel, no response to any button combinations (reset, test modes etc). No obvious faults, I checked all I could with multimeter and almost surrendered. And I came across your post about diode dead on a pcb controller. This was the reason of failure in my case too, diode was faulty and I have just ordered a replacement for few quid, rather than 70 for a new controller. I will let you know once I solder it to the board, but I bet it will work as gold. Thank you very much bob, not all heroes wear capes!
  40. 1 point
    Mine is now doing this too. No error messages.. had it years and it has never done it before.. but it is beeping during the wash cycle.. I have run a cleaner through it and it seems to have stopped ?? Will see.. Did anyone ever get to the bottom of it ?
  41. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply, ive managed to find the full cable with plug already attached on the manufacturers website, thing is its 20 quid and i dont need the cable, when i spoke on the phone to them the bloke couldnt really help unfortunately. Its frustrating because ill bet you can get a bag of a 100 of them little connectors for less than a fiver!
  42. 1 point
    Hi Skistones. Many thanks for the update. Yes appliance engineers have never repaired pcbs other than the odd dry joint soldering. There is no technical information for them even for the trade. However, many technical minded electronics experts have repaired their own using equivalent electronic parts. They clearly have experience and knowledge about these things that is never imparted to even the most well trained domestic appliance engineers. There is a company that specialises in repairing washing machine pcbs though, so anyone wanting to attempt that route could try contacting QER electronic repairs.
  43. 1 point
    Fix for this problem! Also had the same problem with my beko washing machine with water leaking out of this black hose that connects to the drain pipe housing at the top of the machine. The black hose just needs to be pushed back onto the nipple on the back of the drum.
  44. 1 point
    I had the same issue and took the built in washing machine out of its cabinet tilted it only to find a metal protective plate underneath. So this wasn’t going to get me to the pump quickly. I then removed the front plastic cover and used adjustable pliers to remove the pipe and found amazing amount of debris. Cleaned it all out replaced everything (sliced my hand in the process!) and it all worked like a dream afterwards... thank you amazing forum!
  45. 1 point
    I will try out the detergents listed in the link. The machine is a Hotpoint WDPG8640 washer dryer. I registered with Which to see if there is a review. The review for the WDPG8640 states multiple times that this model is very poor at rinsing out detergent! I wish I had consulted Which before buying it. With my skin, I am not getting any rashes, it's just that I can feel something on my clothes. I had two pairs of identical summer trousers that were washed last summer. I washed one pair last week. Tried both on and I can feel a difference.
  46. 1 point
    Hello - yes, once a month every month I would (write it on your calendar) .. especially if most of the time you wash garments at 40c or under - some washing machines have a 'Auto-Clean' was programme cycle (I dont know if your particular model has) , but it will say in the instructions. It will fill up the drum with some water and heat it up to 90/95'c and then 'swish' the water around the drum very quickly as to 'scrub' the old gunky left behind undisolved detergent and grease and then at the end rinse it out. If you do a lot of low temperature washes have a try of adding some Dettol Laundry cleanser liquid to the wash cycle which will kill germs at under 40'c (allegedly) if you can get it where you live or something similar. - Dont forget to leave the door ajar after the wash and at all times if you can, it allows air to get into the drum and dry it out rather than leave it condensated and damp (which can lead to damp smell) and wipe the grey rubber door gasket dry after every wash and look for black mould on the grey door rubber gasket (sometimes if it already is bad with mould sometimes you cannot even get rid of it by cleaning and you have to have the rubber door gasket replaced or replace the machine altogether if the mould has really got in there and taken hold. Have you ever cleaned out the pump filter on your washing machine? - on most washing machines the pump filter is behind a door or facia at the bottom of the machine (the instruction booklet will say how to) sometimes if they are not cleaned they , over time, get full of gunk of undisolved washing liquid / conditioner, hair, fluff, coins and buttons, and sometimes if the filter is dirty and need cleaning a 'damp' smell can emulate from the machine, Come up from the pump filter and the smell then can come out through the drum and soap drawer. Talking of soap drawer do you take that out regularly and clean it ? most soap drawers can be removed totally from the washing machine by pushing a clip down at the rear of the soap drawer same time while pulling out the soap drawer. Clean all the undisolved washing powder and soap liquid and conditioner off the drawer insides and at the bottom of the soap drawer and rinse it well and then dry it totally before putting it back in place. Again a 'yucky' soap drawer attracts mould and can give off a pungent damp smell. - Good luck , I am sure you will eradicate it or make it smell better in the end if you do all of that .. well I hope anyway. EDIT: I have sourced the Instruction Manual for your washing machine here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46003/Electrolux-Ewg-12440-W.html?page=3#manual
  47. 1 point
    Hello - I would start off doing a 'service wash' - long wash at 90'c , no detergent, no conditioner, no clothes in the drum and no spin, and extra rinse. Could take 3 hours or more. Do this monthly. Then after every wash leave the door open of the washing machine (doesnt have to be fully open, just a bit ajar to let some air get into the drum) to totally dry out - and wipe down grey rubber door gasket with white vinegar (distilled , not malt lol) - then hopefully the musty / damp smell will disappear - hope this helps.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks Andy I'll do some more investigations today, I'll let you know what I find.
  49. 1 point
    Hi there Chris, Just joined the forums after reading your post, I'm willing to bet that you managed to fix up that old servis. I have one myself which i am offering if you want one for spares? You can have it free if you cover transport costs. Or you can pick up from Scotland. Regards, Dave.
  50. 1 point
    Yes it looks the same but there are quite a few that look the same and I can't tell what will work and what won't. It says it should work so I should be able to send it back if it won't. Will see when it arrives.

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