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  1. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  2. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  3. 1 point
    Thanks for your help. Luckily it still can be used as its just the temp button and not any other. The cost of a board is stupid and they are very hard to find, so theres no offers anywhere. Ill keep a look out for a used part on ebay. Thanks again
  4. 1 point
    Hello. That sounds like the motor. To troubleshoot a noise when the drum turns you need to take off the drive belt and make sure it's not catching on the drum pulley at the back. Then spin the drum by hand again. If the noise is still there it's related to the drum, drum bearings or something stuck in the drum. If the noise has gone then it has to be the motor or in some rare cases even the drive belt.
  5. 1 point
    In the end I did a wash cycle with the drum empty and 500ml of vinegar added, and it's been perfect ever since. The "easy maintenance" cycle doesn't have a spin cycle in it, so presumably it wasn't waiting for the water level to drop, and hence wasn't using the water level sensor. Problem solved!
  6. 1 point
    Hello. Instructions on how to remove a soap dispenser drawer for cleaning are usually in the instruction manual. If you don't have it you may be able to download one from here washing machine instruction manuals That's assuming it is meant to come out, but most should be. At the end of the day it shouldn't be difficult, there's just something at the back (possibly underneath the drawer) that stops it coming all the way out and a tab or device to press to allow it to come out. Some are even cruder that that and just need gently prising out.
  7. 1 point
    I just went ahead and took the weight off (I have done this 4 times in 1 week - so I am really fast in it now ) and fixed the spring in the right hook and MAGIC. It works perfectly. I can't thank you enough! Let me know if I can donate some money to the forum! Thanks a ton again Cheers Tathagat
  8. 1 point
    Hi Andy! I think it maybe the 30 minutes cycle then, however i only use it when it's a 2-3 item. Will let you know the outcome in couple of weeks
  9. 1 point
    Okay - thank you for your answer
  10. 1 point
    Just a few extra thoughts just in case they are helpful. According to the error information I have on Bosch washing machines (which is far from up-to-date) there should allow about 6 minutes to drain, and also about 6 minutes to fill. So if there is an error where the washing machine doesn't detect it has taken the correct amount of water in, or doesn't detect that it has pumped the waterway successfully it should have tried to do so for around 6 minutes before aborting. Also most faults should produce some sort of an error code. There should normally also attempt to start the motor 8 times before advancing to the off position. Have you checked the carbon brushes just in case? Most faults should occur after several minutes the absolute minimum. So if the washing machine thinks it is full of water and you put it on a spin cycle it should try to pump the water out for about 6 minutes before aborting.
  11. 1 point
    Understood about the neutral return, thank you. I will check your site, I very much appreciate your help.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Thank you! As it isn't my machine and I am certainly not a machine-savvy person, I don't think I would want to try taking the top off. That said, my landlord has been back in touch and she is offering to send around someone to look at it/repair it and I will suggest both of your comment above -- a seal replacement and a look at the hosing between the soap dispenser and drum. I did clean out the soap dispenser, and tried to put some baking soda mixture down the hose, but obviously, with the top still on, the angle didn't guarantee anything. Thanks again!
  14. 1 point
    In my experience most quick washes are a waste of time. They sound good but they simply don't work unless what you're washing simply needs a good hot rinse
  15. 1 point
    Thankyou I removed a stuck bra wire from the outlet hole at the front of the washer I thought was brushes with it only happening on the last few spin cycles No noise when moving manually Thankyou so much for replying Kind regards Jo
  16. 1 point
    Has anyone ever explained the error E 33 that you've been getting? If it isn't mentioned in the instruction manual then it doesn't sound like an error that is triggered because the washing machine isn't level. If that was the case it would definitely be in the instruction manual. So if it isn't in the instruction manual, that strongly implies that it is a fault that needs an engineer and is not related to the washing machine being level of being on a suspended floor. If that is the case then it implies that there is so far on diagnosed fault on the machine. If your washing machine is installed inside the kitchen in a normal flat then there must be many tens of thousands of people who buy LG washing machines to install in similar circumstances. If they are unable to work properly without excessive vibration if installed in flat that is not on the ground floor than people should be told when buying the appliance. There is a similar situation where many thousands of people are buying fridge freezers to install in their garage. There are many fridge freezers that only have one thermostat and are completely unsuited to be installed in a garage. But no salesman ever asks anyone when they are buying these appliances where they are going to be installed. In my opinion this is poor service. Many retailers are very much aware of all these problems because they get the blowback from customers when problems occur. So they should be training their sales staff to check when someone wants to buy a freezer or a washing machine exactly where the customer plans to install it so that they can advise them of potential issues. I would expect that if you have been told you would get a refund then you will get a refund.
  17. 1 point
    yes - apart for the 1 minute problem, it's a great machine.
  18. 1 point
    Hello Andy , It was a UK machine made at the Darlaston works between 1952 to 1956 I think but could be wrong about the dates, By what was then Wilkins & Mitchell LTD, I think they started out making industrial press and stamping machines upto 6000 tonnes, the Wilkins & Mitchell name was changed to Wilkins Servis and then to just Servis. I love old washing machines made by this firm and early Hotpoint's too, they were built like tanks made to last and made with easy servicing in mind. I am having problems finding replacement bearings for the hand cranked mangle and agitator disc drive shaft, the drive shaft will be the most difficult because it has got to be water tight, could turn out to be a bit of a nightmare, if I can I will post before and after photo's of the completed machine, it is very important to me that I do get the machine in full working order because my mother has been diagnosed with a memory illness which will only get worse with time, anything that can trigger deep memories will I have been told help to postpone the illness.Thanks for taking an interest Andy and a merry christmas to you and all that read this post.
  19. 1 point
    I went from a 5kg Bosch to this Kenwood 7kg machine so the larger drum capacity is certainly welcome, but my thinking was wrong - I was loading the machine with same amount of clothes that I loaded my old machine with. And that seems to have upset the overly sensitive load balancing sensor. I live on my own, and I was actually going to go for the 8kg model at one point - thankfully I didn't. I've since adjusted my laundry routine so that I do fewer larger loads. The long wash times definitely take some getting used to (I don't wash below 60 degrees), but since I'm doing fewer washes, I guess it all works out. I've been going through the washing machine articles on whitegoodshelp and have found them to be very helpful. It's a fresh start with this machine, so I'm going to try to use what I've learned to look after my machine properly. Thanks again. I really appreciate the resources on the whitegoodshelp website and here on the forum.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice. The spider was broken and I have the machine disassembled down to the drum and it is a job I have done a few times on different machines over the years. In fact I am so old I fixed my granny's twin tub as a kid, and a Hoover keymatic with my dad. So as I had it stripped down it makes sense to replace the bearings and carry on. It is quite a lot of disassembly. In fact the screws on the spider were the hardest part as they were s/s screw corroded in to the alloy spider. That needed precission drilling as well as suitable drill bits. EDIT I was just reflecting compared to the last time I replaced a bearing on a hot point in the 1990s, it was so easy. Direct drive motor so no belts AT ALL!. Not really that much to dismantle . Nice tidy easy to remove wights. And plenty of videos on you-tube so you know what to expect. I was really pleasantly surprised by the engineering of this LG, until I got to the spider. Uncoated aluminum alloy, fastened to stainless steel and to mild steel in a corrosive electrolyte. Someone at LG needs to go back to metallurgy school - unless this is planned obsolescence.
  21. 1 point
    Yes those are the things to check. If fabric softener is being taken out too soon try this article Fabric Softener taken out too soon We usually find if we dry the towels on the line they are very hard and rough but drying or finishing them off in the tumble dryer leaves them nice and soft. Make sure you are using the proper amount of detergent too. Don't skimp on it.
  22. 1 point
    Cheers Andy. I have one, how do I slect spin only.
  23. 1 point
    Hello Andy. I'd still be amazed if they use a more complicated and expensive way of turning the pump on and off. I'm not saying they don't, just that I'd be amazed They know how long it takes to drain the bulk of the water, (probably about 30 seconds or so - roughly). So once the bulk of the water has gone they can just switch the pump off for x seconds then switch it back on and so on. There would be no need to need to know water levels. No more water is being introduced so it's just small amounts running into the pump which they can easily let build up. If it goes into a short spin they know it will create a small surge of water but that will be pumped away in 10 seconds or so and be back to a small trickle. Doing it that way would cost absolutely nothing, just an adjustment in the wash cycle software.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Hello there. If the drum is rumbling on the slow wash action it should be extremely noisy on spin. Unless the motor itself was extremely noisy it should be worse on spin than it is on wash. Therefore I would initially be suspicious that it wasn't the drum bearings. When you turn the drum by hand, or when the drum itself is turning there are 3 things in play. There is the drum and its bearings, the motor, and the drive belt. Either 3 could be causing the noise. Therefore when suspecting drum bearings the first thing you need to do is to disconnect the drive belt and make sure it is not going to catch on the drum pulley. Then go to the front of the machine open the door and spin the drum by hand. If the noise is present this proves it is caused by something in the drum or the drum bearings. If you don't disconnect the belt you are always spinning the motor the drum and the belt. Believe it or not I once spun the drum by hand and it felt and sounded 100% like the drum bearings. I quoted the customer for the drum bearings but when I started to repair the washing machine I realised that the horrible rumbling noise was coming from the motor bearings. I also even once went out to finish a job that another engineer had ordered parts for. He had also spun the drum by hand and diagnosed drum bearings. He'd ordered up a complete drum assembly and I was later sent to fit it. As soon as I took the back panel off I could see that the drive belt was very badly damaged. The rumbling noise that had caused the other engineer to believe it was drum bearings was caused by that drive belt. Having said all that if it is the drum bearings then it is unusual for it not to be rumbling louder on spin. It will of course eventually reach that stage. Unfortunately many if not most modern washing machines have sealed outer drums. If yours has one then it would be extremely expensive to fit a new outer drum complete with the inner drum and bearings. Regarding the £200 for having a pump replaced. That is a hell of a lot of money for just replacing a pump. It's no wonder people aren't having repairs done these days. Sadly the average lifespan of the modern washing machine is only quoted at 7 years at the moment. However, that is an average so many should last 10 years or more. The washing machine should work fine for potentially many more months until it eventually became extremely noisy. It wouldn't be wise to run one until it virtually collapsed but they can often rumble on for quite a long time. Apart from anything you wouldn't want to wait for it to suddenly randomly collapse at potentially an extremely inconvenient time. Once drum bearings became remarkably noisy it is time to replace it. The only thing that could possibly slow down the ultimate demise would be using it less (washing proper full loads instead of small ones) and reducing the final spin speed. Regarding your last question this article may help a little although it is mostly aimed at someone who is trying to decide whether to buy a separate tumble dryer or a washer dryer combined
  26. 1 point
    Thanks. My article is aimed at front loading washing machines. I rarely worked on top loaders as they aren't so common in the UK. However if it's a fully automatic top loader it shouldn't work fundamentally differently. The "no water supply" error would be triggered if water was siphoning out because it would never reach the correct level due to it losing it as it fills. However, to be siphoning the drain hose would need to be too low at some point. If it pushes into a standpipe that's as high as the washer it can't siphon. Unless the end of the drain hose is shoved too far down the standpipe. To test if the water is siphoning out or being pumped out when it next gets stuck filling with water but the water is simultaneously being drained out lift the drain hose out of the standpipe. Lift it so the end it out of the standpipe and any water would still run into the standpipe. If water is running out but stops when you lift it out - it's siphoning. If water continues to run out it must be pumping it out. If by any chance the drain hose is not pushed into a standpipe and is fixed to a pipe I would try to disconnect it from the pipe and hold it over the sink.
  27. 1 point
    cheapest Miele washing machine is 700quid (£699) and only 7kg.... thats a fair hefty price, but then again I suppose you have to take into account that Miele always has a good reputation for going on for years and years...
  28. 1 point
    A leak could be coming from dozens of places. It's a question of observing where the leak is coming from. Here's a general guide Washing machine leaking
  29. 1 point
    If anyone has bought a new Indesit Washing Machine XWE 101683 and water remains in fabric conditioner dispenser contact Indesit. Do not attempt to repair yourself" After searching internet different advice was given such as tilting machine,levelling,base with runners,plastic mats etc,re-positioning washing machine.All conflicting advice but waste of time.You have 90 days in which to get an engineer out and if you have this machine then it is possible there is a manufacture fault.What has happened is that the dispenser would not flush as blocked by a small piece of plastic not removed when the tray was produced. Engineer called today and tried unblocking with tube and then used a small screwdriver and poked the blocked plastic section out (see attachment which has been pasted on 1" x 1" paper).The engineer commented that " In 30 years servicing washing machines he had never seen anything like this before" Hope this helps as know that you can spend a lot of time getting nowhere and a simple phone call to the Supplier should solve the problem.
  30. 1 point
    Very interesting, I didn't know about the ball. I agree the third pump seems to be an - expensive, prone to damage and overkilled - alternative solution for that indeed. This machine indeed loads water before loading the detergent, even though it flushes the 'stain additive' compartment when doing that. The machine does not have a separate way to fill just water. Looking at the inside of the machine, you then realise that most of the parts are the same parts used by other machines (in this case Electrolux, Zanussi, AEG) and that after all... it's a metal drum spinning in a puddle of water! I hate marketing. Out of curiosity, how does the machine weigh the laundry? And how does it understand if the laundry is not balanced when spinning? I could not see wires coming out of the shock absorbers, so it must be the motor sending some feedback to the electronics? Observing how the machine loads the water makes me think that that could be the 'weighing' mechanism: if I load X amount of water and it's gone after Y seconds, then it must be at least Z grams of laundry - and that is done again till the water level does not decrease anymore. But during the spin there must be something else. I have been looking for the service manual of this machine, I'd like to access the diagnostic menu - just for tinkering. I used the service menu of my Zanussi to sanitize the drum: I would heat the water to 90° and then I would run the 'tub leak' diagnostic, which spins the drum at 500rpm for a few seconds with the tub still full of water. Can you help me by any chance? Thanks!
  31. 1 point
    Hi, My Aquacycle just gave up in the middle of a wash. It was making pretty horrible noises, then stopped and tripped the electrics. When I turn it on, it trips again. When I emptied its was obviously overloaded. Time for a new one? Mick
  32. 1 point
    Many thanks for taking the trouble to join up to pass that on.
  33. 1 point
    Wonder if you can help me with a problem on the drying cycle on my Hoover washer dryer WA110. The dryer appears to be functioning correctly in that the drum is turning and the heater and pump are working, but the clothes are coming out hot and damp. The closest way that I can describe it to you is that when you open the door after operating the dryer the effect is like a sauna with steam pouring out of the opening. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Andy, I can appreciate it's a weird problem to diagnose over the internet. I managed to get the same cycle to work using the eco setting (uses less water) but have no idea why this would work. I'll run some very dull tests over the next two weeks, perhaps something will be discovered. Cheers
  35. 1 point
    Hello. I don't know how long you've had it but as the weather has now turned, the temperature of the cold water going into the machine will be a lot lower than in recent months and this could add on a fair amount of time. Another thing that can add a lot of time is if the machine is struggling to balance the load prior to spin. Siphoning water faults can cause extended times too. Generally if a washing machine finishes the wash, and laundry is clean, and there's no sign of anything being wrong then it should be without fault. But there are some anomaly faults such as the heating element going open circuit mid wash that could cause no error to show. That can make machine take a really long time to finish. If you think there's a fault try watching the machine to determine where it seems to get stuck. I.E. does it spend most time on wash, is it filling and emptying a lot or is it getting stuck just before spin sections and just constantly tumbling back and forth for ages?
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for your help that's the way I fitted the seal in the end and all seems fine.
  37. 1 point
    Unfortunately they have blamed damp and it is likely to be very difficult to prove otherwise. Presumably you had a washing machine there before for some time and it worked OK? Without an independant engineer to look at it you can't easily challenge it especially if they've taken the old part away. What were the symptoms?
  38. 1 point
    Hi again Andy, The brushes arrived today, two days earlier than expected. Success it works!!! A bit fiddly getting the brushes in bet well worth the effort. I usually do take photos but in the heat of the moment when struggling with the motor removal I lost it and started pulling off wires. All good now and thanks for the help/tips. John
  39. 1 point
    fair enough. ive just taken delivery of a samsung this am so i'll see how it goes....thanks fro your time.
  40. 1 point
    It may due to debris in the waste hose that feeds into the u-bend in the kitchen sink. There seems to be some extraneous matter in this hose that I've now fully removed. I'm just trying a rinse/spin cycle now to see if it works or not.
  41. 1 point
    Yes, I cannot overstate how much better a Miele washing machine is to everybody else's. A Miele washing machine is currently very close to the build quality of washing machines from 20 or 30 years back. The rest are just playing at it in comparison. Buying a Miele is not a panacea because they are much more expensive, and if they do need repairs in the future they can be very expensive too. However, I have had a Miele washing machine for the last 8 years and it still sounds and performs as new, it has never given a single problem, and I still expect it to last at least another 8 years. If you want a proper washing machine you have to go Miele. If you don't want to invest that kind of money then fair enough, that seems to be the majority of people. In such a case there's not a lot of difference between the rest in my opinion.
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for coming back. If it is leaking out the front then the rubber may just have needed a clean.Thanks for the link.
  43. 1 point
    Hi Neil, if the drum isn't turning it could be the carbon brushes worn out (carbon brushes diagnostics) but that's an old machine to keep going. Definitely don;t attempt to replace the timer or pcb, way too expensive a gamble and they are probably obsolete anyway.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies - Has worked fine but when engineer called he said not to use it. Has banged sometimes when loaded up but I thought that was just uneven heavy load. With the large gap I do wonder if any socks etc may be lurking inside ! I'll probably take the option to keep it if they give it to me but looks like I'll have to let them take it if they insist - thanks for that info.
  45. 1 point
    I would kiss you if you were a bit prettier !! Removed the motor and upon removing one of the brushes - the carbon was part seized in its holder thanks to the dust throwback. I loosen it and blew out the carbon dust with some compressed air - et voila - a working machine!! I will replace them anyway as they seem a little on the short side - which probably made the seizing more likely as there is less push from the spring. One more machine saved from scrapping - for now...!
  46. 1 point
    one other thing I can think of. Some drum casings are split in two and you are advised to snap off the plastic lugs because they could just bend, snap and fall into the casing. They are impossible to realign so they give you a new seal in a kit and recommend only screwing the casing together.
  47. 1 point
    The reason I asked, is because I'm out of work, I've had a few quotes, and can't really afford them, but can't afford a new washer either. Thank you for your help, think I might have to give it a try myself
  48. 1 point
    Well, finally I found out that the tacho magnet is machine pressed onto the armature and therefore is only supplied with the motor. Even if it would be available as a spare, honestly it would be very difficult to replace. I've tried to take the whole thing off - without success. Anyway, thanks much for your advice. I really appreciate that. At least I know what to do. Daniel
  49. 1 point
    Hi Andy, Problem solved, it was a hair bobble that belonged to my daughter, the metal section on the bobble was making the noise. I told my daughter (who is 26 !!!) she said 'mum I haven't used those bobbles in ages... so I said be sure to check your pockets before you put your clothes in the machine... the engineer took out the removable filter and it was there. I wasn't charged as I have a Domestic and General service policy. Thank you for your help with this, Cheers.
  50. 1 point
    Thank you again. I've printed out your guide and will go through it with my plumber in the morning. Hopefully this will sort it out. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, thank you for your help. TH

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