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Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/02/12 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi, probably too late now but our washing machine, same make and model did the exact same thing. I am a qualified electrician and spent some time working out the wiring as Beko won't give the diagrams to you. I found that the circuit board on the left hand side (when viewed from the rear) is the motor speed controller (inverter), this was ok as the fault was not related. The front PCB had no lights on, but if you looked carefully I occasionally noticed that the Blue selector switch Led's were lit but very dull. The circuit board at the rear RH side is the main power supply and distribution/controller board. I found I had 240v at the input to the board but couldn't find any voltages elsewhere. I took it out and did some tests, I found a diode had blown, after replacing this with an uprated diode everything was working. Total cost £2.05 with express delivery included. I have pics of the boards and location of the diode if required. Regards Rob Other models affected include WDW85140, WDIR7543101, and Blomberg BWD384W0 EDIT Picture of mainboard attached. Diode that had blown was D7 located just above and to the left of the transformer in at least 2 cases. Board is located at the rear on the bottom right hand side when viewed from the rear. Diode rated at 100v 1A, changed for 100v 2A, I chose a STPS2h100 as its size was the same.
  2. 2 points
    Bob. You beauty. Another rescued machine, so therefore confirmation that it fixes this issue on the Beko WDIR7543101 integrated washer/dryer. I took the liberty of taking a series of photographs, and made a brief guide below. This is just my experience, and I'm not a qualified electrician / white goods repair man, so you follow this guide at your own risk! Cheers, Jon 1. Drag the machine out on some cardboard! Make sure to isolate and unplug the device from the mains, the water and the waste before undergoing any of this work. 2. Remove the 5 screws from the rear The black box is located here at the bottom right 3. Remove these two screws to loosen the box 4. A piece of sticky foam holds it down, so run a knife along it to separate. 5. Carefully jiggle the black box out and make sure you de-clip the cable holders from the machine (circled red below) to allow you to move the box. The front cover just slides off to reveal the board. 6. Now it's out, carefully unplug all connectors 7. Gently lever the board out of the black box # 8. Replace this diode (D7) - see Bobs recommendation. I personally used these. 9. Reverse all of the steps above, and turn on!
  3. 2 points
    Control board is at the bottom-back - you access it by taking off the back panel. It also has a small ‘piggy-back’ board clipped onto it called ‘dryer unit’ Ive just sent my board to QER to see if there is anything they can fix, although there are a lot of small chips and surface mount components, so I’m not super hopeful, but worth a try. A new board from Bosch is £150 will update once I get feedback from QER
  4. 2 points
    Hi Simon Can't tell you offhand what the rating is as you need the number to cross reference it, to do that you will have to desolder one leg and lift it up, then google the number. If you are getting iffy readings on D6 it might be because D7 is faulty and affecting the readings on D6 (as it did for me). You can only confirm a diode is definitely faulty by desoldering one leg and testing as the circuit can have adverse affects on the readings (eg:- the meter reads through other components when in circuit). You only get a good idea if it reads 0 ohms both ways when in circuit. I would suggest desoldering D7 and then check D6 as the readings were more in line with a good diode on D6. Regards Rob
  5. 2 points
    Looks like we've had a bit of a run on this problem, 7 since Christmas. I have emailed Beko again, not holding my breath though, watch this space. Still very happy it is helping though. Regards Rob
  6. 2 points
    Happy my post is still helping people, but cannot stress enough don't do it if you are not confident and always remove the power by unplugging, as this test can and must be performed without power. Maybe this posting will eventually leak back to BEKO. To member "Beko", your name did confuse me slightly as I thought BEKO were thanking me (very unlikely). bob12241
  7. 2 points
    Bob12241 you are a superstar! Same failure with my machine at a mere 18 months old. Like yourself, I'm not intimidated by the words "No user serviceable parts inside" but upon examination I couldn't find any obvious scorch marks that would indicate a failed component. As I live on a boat where the power is kinda dirty I assumed that the IC had failed from one too many surges or brown outs or that I had been merely unlucky since nobody else seemed to have experienced the same failure. Currys wanted me to get an engineer in to certify the machine was broken before they'd send another one out to repair the machine - they said they'd pay for the engineer call out but the consequential loss of earnings from spending two days at home waiting for engineers was greater than the price I paid for the machine in the first place, not to mention the fuel for the 40 mile round trip to Mum's to do laundry while I waited for this glacial repair programme to execute. So I ordered a new brain from Beko and fitted it myself - problem solved until last week when it happened again! This time round your magical, actual fix was now on the interwebs. I ordered a new diode which I have just fitted and now my machine is happily gurgling away in the corner. The saga will not end here. I shall be writing a stern letter to Beko demanding a refund for the board which evidently was just as defective as that originally installed in the machine. Another shall be going to Currys berating them for their ridiculous repair procedure and also informing them that this is now a known fault with this model of machine. I'll be demanding compensation for the time I've had to invest in fixing what should have been their responsibility - well if you don't ask you don't get. All the best and Merry Christmas! Driftpin.
  8. 2 points
    Hi there, just came to say that Rob's post above turned out to be exactly what was wrong with mine as well! My washer was only 2 years old and suddenly stopped turning on one day. First I thought it was completely dead but realised I could occasionally hear a very faint beep after plugging it in. A repairman came in and after 20 seconds of poking around with a multimeter at the back of the machine announced that 'the motherboard' was likely broken, wanted to charge me around £115 to fix it (parts + labour) He didn't spend much time diagnosing it so I think he just guessed which board was at fault. Now, Rob did actually update his post a while ago to add a photo of the board as well as further description, but from the comments here it sounds like some people didn't see it? So anyway here is some of the same info again. If you open the machine from the back, it's in the bottom-right corner near the floor, and is the part called "Beko WDX8543130W Pcb Main" on their spares site, should you want to replace the whole thing. The diode in question is D7 - my multimeter beeped when testing it but the others all seemed fine - funnily enough exactly the same diode shorting out for both of us - maybe Beko had a bad batch of them? I'm no electrician so I bought the same diode Rob mentioned: STPS2h100 which is a 100v 2A, the original one was 100v 1A. A soldering iron purchase & few youtube videos on how to replace components on a PCB, and I was able to (carefully) replace the damaged diode, put everything back together, and it's working again! Thanks Rob! Saved me £100, plus I learned a few things.
  9. 2 points
    Many thanks for your reply, Andy. The problem has been resolved itself now without the need for an engineer's visit. The temperature in the kitchen is cold at 14 degrees. We have run three more 90 degree washes with the load being fuller each time and have observed the steam and condensation produced being less each time. As mentioned previously the apparent problem was initially when the installation engineer telling us to run a cleaning 90 degree wash on an empty load which produced considerable amounts of steam and condensate. Running a full load at 90 degrees still does result in much less steam being produced with a few drops of condensation from the bottom of the soap drawer. I think we can live with this. Thanks again for all your help. William
  10. 2 points
    Thank you. I have rather a lot of laundry to do so can now get stuck in
  11. 2 points
    Yes. It will just heat it up as needed. If it’s a hot and cold fill washing machine then as long as water is connected and able to go into the hot water hose and valve it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or cold.
  12. 2 points
    Thanks for your reply, I think you are correct. I have checked to ensure that there no blockages from the pump all the way to the drain and capped off the tube. We did two loads of washing and had no problems with the machine draining or water coming out of the drain hose.
  13. 2 points
    I applaud what they're doing. Their survival probably depends on being realistic about who their target market is, and I hope there's a decent pocket of consumers looking for aspects such as repairability and not shipping a washing machine across the globe every 3 years, and have the cash to pay the higher wages of say the UK vs China. It's interesting that they started selling the machines via local retailers first, which sounds like a smart way of ensuring a controlled growth and ironing out any issues with the production process. I'm almost too young for the days you guys speak about (though I picked a lot of computers out of skips) and whilst those days are gone and the future will be different, it won't necessarily be worse if we don't want it to be. The web means it's never been easier to seek out like minded people or products that actually fit the bill, whereas previously our choice would have been mainly limited to a local shop. 3D printing of parts will be the next disruption and it seems the "throw away" ethos of the current manufacturers is woefully prepared for that. Recently I discovered the "buy it for life" group on Reddit which is interesting if you haven't seen it. So with any luck, such a company as Ebac doesn't need a massive market to survive if it can target the right people (though I'm extrapolating quite a lot in this about the ethos behind Ebac -- it could be it's solely "buy British")
  14. 2 points
    Please let us know how it goes. It will be useful for advising other people in the future.
  15. 2 points
    Hello Andy, Thank you so much for replying. I'm really not happy with it because as you say there is a far bigger chance of things going down that gap and the possible extra wear and tear on the bearings, (which is what my 8 yr old Candy has just died of and this is the replacement) I will try your suggestion and see what happens. I have messaged Electrolux on their site contact form, I can't find an email for them so can't add the link, but hoping they will reply soon.
  16. 2 points
    Hello Nikki. Yes that does look a fair bit eliptical. If it isn't catching on the door seal it's difficult to know if the manufacturer would accept it as a fault or not though. The problem with it being eliptical like that is the potential for vibration on spin as the drum rim is out of true, and potential for things to get trapped in the gap that opens and closes as the drum revolves. Few drums are perfectly round at the rim and I've seen a lot out of true like that. Try putting it on spin with no laundry inside. Does it vibrate much on top speed? If it does you could try complaining. You could also try sending a link to the video to the manufacturer to see if they accept if it is normal or not.
  17. 2 points
    Dear Andy, Thanks for your reply and the links that you supplied. Very helpful and totally answered my question. Cheers Ray Purchase
  18. 2 points
    does this look like your existing brush? http://www.4washerhelp.co.uk/indesit/widxl146/carbon-brush/catalogue.pl?path=495970:599890,52691:495982&model_ref=10789130&refine=carbon%20brush
  19. 2 points
    I had this exact same problem with the same model of washing machine, and after seeing this post yesterday, I decided to investigate. This machine has a drain pump and a circulation pump which sit either side of the pump housing, but the pumps are identical. The machine only made a grinding noise during wash, not draining, so I was pretty sure it was the circulation side that was the issue. After removing it and testing it, it worked flawlessly, but it was pretty clear that the black pipe running to the top of the rubber seal on the drum was blocked (I couldn't blow through it). We live in a very hard water area, and the pipe is quite narrow and was blocked with scale. After squeezing it to break the scale up, and blowing as much as possible out, it became clear, and after reassembling it, no more grinding!
  20. 2 points
    Hi yes, I just replaced the pump & housing
  21. 1 point
    Yes, normally that would be caused by the drum pulley nut coming off at the back. If yours is a direct drive machine I’m not sure what would cause it. Most washing machine drums are now designed to not come apart. Check on 4washerhelp appliance spares for your model and look at the list of spare parts available to see if the outer drum comes as a complete drum kit or in two halves.
  22. 1 point
    Update - The issue was solved with a replacement pump! Bizarre that the pump worked mid-cycle but not a full drain! The repair guy said he'd never seen the issue before either. In any case, just pleased it's working and I haven't had to shell out £100s on a new machine! Cheers!
  23. 1 point
    Cotton, Wool, Delicates .. which is your feather .. the triangle sign, is actually a chemical beaker with a thermometer in it .. so SYNTHETICS. Theres a deep water icon, or soak and I'm guessing the sprials of 2 different intensities represent wash strength, ie normal or heavy duty. Also the weird one north of the wool symbol that also says 30 degrees, no clue, cant see clearly enough to guess, but its sort of looks like a cotton but just kind of a scrunched icon to fit in the space. I've never owned one, and am only half German by blood only,
  24. 1 point
    Hi Kal402, thanks so much for the info. We've booked a dryer repairman to come in a week or so. He didn't know what the metal strip was. I think we're experiencing similar problems as you with the different cycles so we'll double check and also send him this post. Thanks again and I'll update this post once we know for definite. Best wishes.
  25. 1 point
    Fingers crossed. It is difficult to imagine what might go wrong with a modern pressure switch. The pressure switch has always been one of the most reliable parts in a washing machine. However, they are now a very different design to what they have historically been for probably over 50 years. As far as I'm aware they have a magnet that presumably gets raised up and down by air pressure inside the coil. An extremely simple device. The only thing that I would expect to go wrong with one is if by any chance the coil goes open circuit. I can't imagine anything going wrong with the magnet. Of course other issues such as a blocked pressure system, or an air leak can cause problems with the pressure switch function. If you still have problems by the chance make sure you check the continuity of connections from all of the pressure switch wires right back to where they connect to other parts in the machine if you haven't already.
  26. 1 point
    It just kept pumping out in small bursts. All fixed at the moment with new DC Module. Thanks
  27. 1 point
    Thank you! As it isn't my machine and I am certainly not a machine-savvy person, I don't think I would want to try taking the top off. That said, my landlord has been back in touch and she is offering to send around someone to look at it/repair it and I will suggest both of your comment above -- a seal replacement and a look at the hosing between the soap dispenser and drum. I did clean out the soap dispenser, and tried to put some baking soda mixture down the hose, but obviously, with the top still on, the angle didn't guarantee anything. Thanks again!
  28. 1 point
    Another photo showing location of plastic tube - in area circled red
  29. 1 point
    Well done and good - any issues, feel free to come back to me. I did not have to disconnect any wires etc as I only needed access to the screws which held the side panel on as per my photos. I do have a full list of part numbers if you need it. I had to buy a new piece of plastic which cost about £5 inc del and Miele were very helpful. I have a contact e-mail address if need be - she was amazing - none of this "better get an engineer to call" etc etc I assume you have a leak hence the flood switch tripping so may be worth getting some hose clips too as not many of the connected hoses have any clips at all - how cheap is that! Pulling of the side panel gives good access to most things - much better than the old models. Peter
  30. 1 point
    Good question. I would think it would probably need to be nearer £2000 though. Miele already sell washing machines at £1000 and above with 10 year warranties and presumably they just manage to get by and don't sell many compared with standard manufacturers. I would pay £1000 for a washing machine with a 15 year guarantee. I would guess most people wouldn't though..?
  31. 1 point
    This isn't so much a question as a repair report, hope that's appropriate. I've spent the last couple of days exploring this machine which was making a very rough buzzing noise. Having decided that the problem was the drain pump (smelly water, washing wetter than expected, development of noise) I consulted youtube and various discussions for advice. There are quite a few vids and threads giving detailed instructions but all seemed to be discussing a slightly different model to mine and the disassembly for mine turns out to be much easier than most advice would suggest. If like me you did a search for "LG drain pump" and have seen the LG disassembly vids that talk about removing the door seal and the front panel, pause briefly and check if you have a separate small (kick) panel at the bottom. If so there is no need to mess about with removing the lid, door seal and front panel. Just lever off the kick panel with a screwdriver and the white plastic box on the left (2 screws and slide to the right) to access the pump assembly. You will find the 3 pipes held on with spring clamps, the smaller ones are easy enough to remove but the bigger one is a pig. Wide pliers or adjustable pliers are best. Take a picture of the wiring before removing the wires (yeah, wise after the event). Replacing the pumps is fairly straightforward and is well covered on Youtube but replacing that big pipe proved a proper struggle for me and is the main reason I decided to share. Take the spring clamp out, squeeze the tabs together and loop a cable tie over them to keep the spring under tension (opening the clamp), pull tight. Slip the clamp back over the pipe, re-attach the pipe and when you're happy with the position, cut the cable tie with a sharp blade, careful to avoid the pipe. The spring will close, holding the pipe fast. This is a much smaller job than it first appeared but I only know that now as I've spent two days finding out. The replacement motors (x2) are EAU61383505 which is a different part number to the old one 4681EA2001E(N) and other models shown on YT vids. Respect to this site for ongoing help.
  32. 1 point
    The washing machine's been working great ever since I changed the pump! Thanks for your suggestions and comments which saved me a bundle to do myself
  33. 1 point
    As long as this hose assembly isn't wired into the washing machine you should be able to use any washing machine hose. This is an Aqua stop type hose which is supposed to be free from leaking (ironically). Their main use is that as a normal hose can split, these hoses are a hose within a hose so to speak so they are free from leaking from the actual hose itself. If you want to keep using this one though, just make sure the whole thing is nice and clean, turn that rubber hose around, and tries some PTF tape on the male part of the thread. If you put too much PTF tape on though you will not be able to tighten the thread up enough. It could even be that the problem is you haven't tightened it up enough anyway. Another approach would be to liberally spray WD-40 on both the threads to clean and lubricate it and then tighten it up. I would not expect to get a good seal without nipping up the connection with some pipe pliers. Hand tight would probably not be enough to make the seal. If none of it works you need to buy a new rubber seal for the hose or at least try fitting a seal from another hose as they should be pretty standard in size. At the end of the day a watertight seal is made when that small black rubber seal is pressed tightly up against the male part. It needs to be tight, but as I said before if you over tighten it you will just cut into the rubber and damage it.
  34. 1 point
    You could have a fault on the suspension, but it could also be that you are under-loading the drum. I would expect a load of just 3 towels to be unbalanced and cause vibration. If you put a lot more towels in things should be better. This is particularly a problem with large drum capacity washing machines. Counter intuitively, small loads can cause a washing machine to vibrate excessively or even thump and jump around. This is all explained in my article here washing machine jumps and bangs on spin - read it all for a good understanding but the section headed, "Extra large drums make balancing loads harder" is particularly relevant.
  35. 1 point
    Your reply has prompted me to update this thread as I have since found out what the difference in the product codes means. Samsung contacted me directly since asking the question through their online support feature. The difference between the two models turned out to be different coloured doors! One being white, the other being crystal white..
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for coming back. If it is leaking out the front then the rubber may just have needed a clean.Thanks for the link.
  37. 1 point
    Any chance you can advise on how the filter was removed - I'm having exactly the same problem with an ISE 1607W bought barely two years ago. The plastic filter handle seems to have sheered off so the filter can't be removed. Its been the most problematic appliance I've ever owned and I'm inclined to write it off now with news of ISE's demise, but it seems daft to scrap the machine for the sake of a stuck filter. I had to recently remove the pump filter on one of these machines and it was a real struggle. From memory I had to tease it out with a pair of pliers and with lots of tugging after, I believe, rotating the cover anticlockwise to unlock it. Nothing was jamming it, there were a couple of small coins only inside once I removed it. I was trying to trace an intermittent rubbing noise which actually turned out to be one of the top drum support springs which had worn through on it's mounting point.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply Indeed it was The plastic house inside the wheel hade been cracked in two pieces. I put a plastic stripe to hold it together and now it works.
  39. 1 point
    Good advice, thanks. My Dad is going to bench test it tomorrow to see if it's salvageable. If the motor is the fault then I will probably replace it (I had a look at your parts website).
  40. 1 point
    Well, the Hoover repairman has been, and has ordered new parts. I didn't get to speak to him, but it sounds like it's going to get repaired once the parts come!
  41. 1 point
    Hi. I have been doing some washes without any powder added, quite a lot actually. I am convinced it is over soaping from the previous machine. The suds level is going down and I am starting to add small amounts to the wash now. Dirty clothes are coming out clean and smelling washed as well. The level of suds in a large wash was quite a surprise and considering no powder actually added was something to see. I did prove this by washing some bedding that we have had stashed away for years and never used. No powder added and there were no suds, pretty obvious I suppose and it was after a maintenance wash. Dried it then added a small amount of powder and it performed as expected.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    The speed is controlled through monitoring the small tacho coil and magnet at the end of the motor where the motor plug is. As the armature turns, the magnet revolves and the control board can count the revolutions.
  44. 1 point
    I got it now-I went back and put in the number again then selected form the list below it then the manual came up. thanks sincerely for your help! I had just about given up on that washing machine!
  45. 1 point
    Hello folks, Bit of info regarding Bush. In November 2008, it was announced that Argos (who also own Homebase) has bought the brand names Bush and Alba. All products branded as these 2 names are now Argos ownbrand products. The current range of Bush machines are manufactured by Turkish company, Vestel, who also make Russell Hobbs branded machines exclusively for Asda and Currys own-branded Logik machines. In my experience, these are very cheap, low performing machines and notoriously unreliable. Anybody looking for a cheap machine, stick with Beko. Beko are proving themselves to be the brand to watch at the moment, offering so very well made, high performing machines. My best friend, for example, has 2 young children (aged 5 & 3) and her other half has quite a messy job. She bought a 1200rpm mid-range Beko 5 years ago for £210 and it's been flawless ever since. The current excellence range are excellent value, offering 7 or 8kg drums, 1400 and 1600 machines and an excellent choice of cycles for under £260 - such features have previously only been available on high end machines. The build quality of Beko's high end machines is certainly enough to rival Bosch, but up to £100 cheaper. Obviously, Beko aren't the BEST machines - Miele, AEG, Siemens, ISE/Asko and V-Zug take that biscuit. But for the low - midrange of the market, they're certainly better than anything that Hoover/Candy or Hotpoint/Indesit are churning out. http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/91487-argos-buys-alba-bush-brandnames
  46. 1 point
    Thanks, looking at it, I think it's the pulley, but I think that's about £25 to replace, I have already spent about £22 on brushes, £15 on a drive belt and it was only a cheap washing machine, the seal on the door doesn't look great and it makes the towels smell like a choice of wet dogs or onions anyway so I think it's time for a new washer, just waiting for the new one to arrive in 4 days, it's safe to say I'm not going with Indesit, I went for a candy one because it was reduced to £220 by over £100 and I don't have to pay for 12 months, thanks a lot for the help though, it would have been most helpful if the washing machine was expensive enough to justify the repair costs, thanks again
  47. 1 point
    I had tried but without success. However a very nice repair man came out today and was able to extract thecarbon brushes that way without having to remove the motor! Thanks for the reply.
  48. 1 point
    Thank you again. I've printed out your guide and will go through it with my plumber in the morning. Hopefully this will sort it out. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, thank you for your help. TH
  49. 1 point
    Quick update: The machine now has a new element and is working fine.
  50. 1 point
    Thanks Andy - that helps.
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